Ive recently been talking to some smiths and have heard different opinions on how to blueprint a 700 action. Hand lap or machine? each smith I spoke to was strong on there opinion and didnt hesitate to blast others who disagree. any input would be helpful
Gunsmithing To Lap or Machine that is the question?
Re: To Lap or Machine that is the question?
to lap what part? you can get away lapping the bolt lugs to the action lugs, outside of that, you can't lap an action face true that I know of, or you can't lap threads straight...
DD
to lap what part? you can get away lapping the bolt lugs to the action lugs, outside of that, you can't lap an action face true that I know of, or you can't lap threads straight...
DD
Re: To Lap or Machine that is the question?
Unless maybe they are saying hand tap? but that would include hand ream, and still wouldn't address one of the most critical areas, which is the action face
DD
Unless maybe they are saying hand tap? but that would include hand ream, and still wouldn't address one of the most critical areas, which is the action face
DD
Re: To Lap or Machine that is the question?
There are a few guys out there that are simply afraid or not knowledgeable enough to really "true" an action; usually they just face off the action face and lap the lugs. That AIN'T enough and does not give the client the benefit of what could be done to improve accuracy.
If you intend to get your action trued, make sure you ask just what it is the smith is going to do and what he will charge. I do the complete job, including re-cutting the action threads, and installing a Sako extractor for $245
There are a few guys out there that are simply afraid or not knowledgeable enough to really "true" an action; usually they just face off the action face and lap the lugs. That AIN'T enough and does not give the client the benefit of what could be done to improve accuracy.
If you intend to get your action trued, make sure you ask just what it is the smith is going to do and what he will charge. I do the complete job, including re-cutting the action threads, and installing a Sako extractor for $245
Re: To Lap or Machine that is the question?
I'm a firm beliver is fully blue printing a factroy action so that its all back strait with the bolt like it should be. I had/have the chance to disscuss this with a very well known (in the BR and F-class crowd) and he will not blueprint an action. He will have it sent out to Bob Brackney if you insist to have it done but doesn't reccommend it. He faces it off square with the threads and hand laps the bolt so the lugs are making full contact. He guarntees his guns to shoot 3/8" !! it hard to argue where or not the blueprinting is actualy "worth" the cost and effort
Me personaly I want to eliminate as many variables as possible and I'de hate to have a gun with a skunk barrel and think that the action work is what caused it so I fully blueprint all my factory guns.
I'm a firm beliver is fully blue printing a factroy action so that its all back strait with the bolt like it should be. I had/have the chance to disscuss this with a very well known (in the BR and F-class crowd) and he will not blueprint an action. He will have it sent out to Bob Brackney if you insist to have it done but doesn't reccommend it. He faces it off square with the threads and hand laps the bolt so the lugs are making full contact. He guarntees his guns to shoot 3/8" !! it hard to argue where or not the blueprinting is actualy "worth" the cost and effort
Me personaly I want to eliminate as many variables as possible and I'de hate to have a gun with a skunk barrel and think that the action work is what caused it so I fully blueprint all my factory guns.
Re: To Lap or Machine that is the question?
The bolt lug faces would need to be lapped to mate the inside of the receiver. But to true the receiver, it has to be done on a lathe. (Unless you have access to the proper hand jigs and tools and the experience to use it correctly.)
The receiver tube should be mounted in a fixture and trued around the hole in the middle where the bolt functions. All dimensions should be either aligned parallel or perpendicular to that long axis of the receiver. Unless you, or a friend, have some machining experience, this might be a good time to hire this one out. A miss-step on the receiver can cause a lot of headaches down the road.
Whether it is done completely by hand with the proper jigs and tooling or done in a lathe I guess depends on who the person is doing it and what equipment they have on hand. But before I let someone else work on a rifle of mine I would want to talk to several people that have rifles they have worked on. I would want to know in my mind that this person is the real McCoy. I don’t want anyone to TRY to learn anything on a rifle of mine. Most good rifle smiths will give you a guarantee of ½” at 100 yards or better. Some of the real good ones will guarantee ¼” if you replace the barrel at the same time.
Good luck in your choices ahead.
The bolt lug faces would need to be lapped to mate the inside of the receiver. But to true the receiver, it has to be done on a lathe. (Unless you have access to the proper hand jigs and tools and the experience to use it correctly.)
The receiver tube should be mounted in a fixture and trued around the hole in the middle where the bolt functions. All dimensions should be either aligned parallel or perpendicular to that long axis of the receiver. Unless you, or a friend, have some machining experience, this might be a good time to hire this one out. A miss-step on the receiver can cause a lot of headaches down the road.
Whether it is done completely by hand with the proper jigs and tooling or done in a lathe I guess depends on who the person is doing it and what equipment they have on hand. But before I let someone else work on a rifle of mine I would want to talk to several people that have rifles they have worked on. I would want to know in my mind that this person is the real McCoy. I don’t want anyone to TRY to learn anything on a rifle of mine. Most good rifle smiths will give you a guarantee of ½” at 100 yards or better. Some of the real good ones will guarantee ¼” if you replace the barrel at the same time.
Good luck in your choices ahead.
Re: To Lap or Machine that is the question?
IF-
The lugs need to be lapped after the trueing process,the individual needs to learn tool grinding prior to practicing on a receiver & bolt.
IF-
The bolt isn't oversized/sleeved/bumped w/ bored raceways you are wasting time & money.
IF-
All the above is not single pointed,I refer to their practice as molesting!!
IF-
The lugs need to be lapped after the trueing process,the individual needs to learn tool grinding prior to practicing on a receiver & bolt.
IF-
The bolt isn't oversized/sleeved/bumped w/ bored raceways you are wasting time & money.
IF-
All the above is not single pointed,I refer to their practice as molesting!!
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