Hi, guys - got this scope from Tyler at MK Machining today and love it already. Turrets are big yes, but I love the heavy clicks every mil, the locking windage, the illumination is top of industry bar none, and it's shorter and lighter than my TT. This scope has a lot of potential.
In order to test the collimation/tracking you need a reliable procedure and I've developed one. In theory, it's easy: measure the distance to a tall target or ruler, run the scope from the top of it to the bottom, measure how far the the crosshairs travel and how many MRAD you turn and then do some simple math to figure out if the predicted movement of the reticle based on the clicks matches the observed movement downrange on the target. For a simple example, if you have your target at exactly 100 yards, and you move 10 MRAD on the turret, your crosshairs should move 10MRAD*3.6" or 36" at 100 yards.
In practice, it's far more difficult to get repeatable (and accurate) results than it sounds in theory. I won't turn this into a "how to test your scope tracking" thread as there are many of those; suffice it to say that the biggest sources of error in my experience is not knowing the distance to your target to within less than a foot of error (not a yard - your field laser is not good enough; I use a Leica Disto D2, accurate to 1/32" and with a range of over 100 yards); and movement of the scope as you dial the elevation (I use the original Snipers Hide gizmo with a 25# lead brick on the front of it, all atop a 400# stack of concrete blocks cemented and rebar together [just something I have around as a parking barricade].) If you avoid those two errors, have stuff mostly level, and don't make any math errors, you're GTG. I'm stating this so you know you can (probably) trust the results I'm reporting. I always repeat measurements at least 3 times. I use a 96" ruler at 85.58 yards (256' 7").
Tonight I got the LRP set up in a Spuhr and leveled and then attached to the Gizmo (Targets USA; SAC now is making one that you can mount in a fixed position if you have the space) then I ran from the top of 96" ruler all the way to the bottom 0" - it was 31.4 MRAD, measured over and over. It was between a click sometimes but I can't get any more precise than that.
If you do the math, that 31.4 MRAD at 85.58 yards should have caused the crosshairs to move 96.65" but it was only 96" - so that's an error of 0.7% short (the clicks are slightly too small).
I then got out my Tangent Theta, took it off the DT SRS and tested it. I could only run it 25.8 MRAD without moving a bunch of stuff around, but that should have made the scope travel 79.4" when it traveled 79.0 on the target - so the TT turrets come up 0.5% short over that distance.
Those two are close enough to call it a draw; note that I ran the LRP 5 MRAD more than the TT, allowing a small error to manifest itself more. My TT is the most accurate scope I have ever tested; I have seen NF with 2% error, and rarely less than 1% when run over their entire elevation travel.
Oh, and as a bonus, the scope cap was so close to square with the crosshairs, that I didn't need to use a plumb bob (though I could not have known this before hand; I would have learned it on the level/plumb ruler for the tracking, though). I find that usually that is not the case that the cap is square with the reticle.
If you don't have the equipment to test like this, a 0.7% error is (assuming this is near the average error for the LRP) small enough that if you are dialed 25 MRAD and you don't correct for error, you will come up just 2 clicks short on target (0.2 MRAD) and 25 Mil means you're probably shooting over 2000 yards. Every little bit counts, but hey that's a small little bit!
I really like this scope and can't wait to shoot it. and BTW dealing with MKM is awesome, scope shipped fast, packed to withstand an air drop, came with some free do-dads.
ETA: the "eyebox" which for me means that "box" or space behind the scope where you get a full view without any tunneling is very forgiving or long, or wide, meaning that you don't have to be in a tight sweet spot to get a full optical view on high or low power. And the eyebox is back away from the eyepiece a comfortable distance which I'm really happy about because this is going on a DT HTI in 375CT and 50 BMG. It's the best eye box I can remember, better than the TT or my ATACR
In order to test the collimation/tracking you need a reliable procedure and I've developed one. In theory, it's easy: measure the distance to a tall target or ruler, run the scope from the top of it to the bottom, measure how far the the crosshairs travel and how many MRAD you turn and then do some simple math to figure out if the predicted movement of the reticle based on the clicks matches the observed movement downrange on the target. For a simple example, if you have your target at exactly 100 yards, and you move 10 MRAD on the turret, your crosshairs should move 10MRAD*3.6" or 36" at 100 yards.
In practice, it's far more difficult to get repeatable (and accurate) results than it sounds in theory. I won't turn this into a "how to test your scope tracking" thread as there are many of those; suffice it to say that the biggest sources of error in my experience is not knowing the distance to your target to within less than a foot of error (not a yard - your field laser is not good enough; I use a Leica Disto D2, accurate to 1/32" and with a range of over 100 yards); and movement of the scope as you dial the elevation (I use the original Snipers Hide gizmo with a 25# lead brick on the front of it, all atop a 400# stack of concrete blocks cemented and rebar together [just something I have around as a parking barricade].) If you avoid those two errors, have stuff mostly level, and don't make any math errors, you're GTG. I'm stating this so you know you can (probably) trust the results I'm reporting. I always repeat measurements at least 3 times. I use a 96" ruler at 85.58 yards (256' 7").
Tonight I got the LRP set up in a Spuhr and leveled and then attached to the Gizmo (Targets USA; SAC now is making one that you can mount in a fixed position if you have the space) then I ran from the top of 96" ruler all the way to the bottom 0" - it was 31.4 MRAD, measured over and over. It was between a click sometimes but I can't get any more precise than that.
If you do the math, that 31.4 MRAD at 85.58 yards should have caused the crosshairs to move 96.65" but it was only 96" - so that's an error of 0.7% short (the clicks are slightly too small).
I then got out my Tangent Theta, took it off the DT SRS and tested it. I could only run it 25.8 MRAD without moving a bunch of stuff around, but that should have made the scope travel 79.4" when it traveled 79.0 on the target - so the TT turrets come up 0.5% short over that distance.
Those two are close enough to call it a draw; note that I ran the LRP 5 MRAD more than the TT, allowing a small error to manifest itself more. My TT is the most accurate scope I have ever tested; I have seen NF with 2% error, and rarely less than 1% when run over their entire elevation travel.
Oh, and as a bonus, the scope cap was so close to square with the crosshairs, that I didn't need to use a plumb bob (though I could not have known this before hand; I would have learned it on the level/plumb ruler for the tracking, though). I find that usually that is not the case that the cap is square with the reticle.
If you don't have the equipment to test like this, a 0.7% error is (assuming this is near the average error for the LRP) small enough that if you are dialed 25 MRAD and you don't correct for error, you will come up just 2 clicks short on target (0.2 MRAD) and 25 Mil means you're probably shooting over 2000 yards. Every little bit counts, but hey that's a small little bit!
I really like this scope and can't wait to shoot it. and BTW dealing with MKM is awesome, scope shipped fast, packed to withstand an air drop, came with some free do-dads.
ETA: the "eyebox" which for me means that "box" or space behind the scope where you get a full view without any tunneling is very forgiving or long, or wide, meaning that you don't have to be in a tight sweet spot to get a full optical view on high or low power. And the eyebox is back away from the eyepiece a comfortable distance which I'm really happy about because this is going on a DT HTI in 375CT and 50 BMG. It's the best eye box I can remember, better than the TT or my ATACR
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