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Trainer rifle mimicking comp/hunt rifle.

forthehunt

Sergeant of the Hide
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Jan 12, 2022
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Is there any value in making a trainer rifle a close replica of my competition and hunting rifle?

If it is, to what extent?


I picked up shooting in a big way in the last twelve months. Cost per round has started becoming a real issue as I shoot 20-30 rounds per day when weather permits. I have a 150yard backyard range so I can only foresee the number of rounds increasing.

I shoot a 7mm Rem mag for my hunting and long range target, and I shoot a 6mmBR for PRS style comps. The 6mmBR will get a new chassis to match the 7mm Rem mag so I can swap parts.

The issue is, the platform is rather expensive. It is from a little boutique place in Australia (where I am).

With that in mind, I want a 223 bolt rifle to shoot cheap factory rounds. Should I get it in the same chassis system and scope or does it matter not what shape and scope is attached to the trainer?

I am not interested in swapping barrels nor scopes. The only thing the rifles share are bipods, fore ends, bags and slings.

I am fortunate that I can afford to have options but I can also use the funds on improving my rifle range.
 
I mean, a barrel swap will be much cheaper than a full trainer rig. But.

If you're going to get a full new rifle to shoot "cheap" 223, ask yourself how many rounds it'd take to "pay off" the cost of the new rifle. If you're talking a full new trainer rig, with a $1k chassis, $1-1.5k barreled action, and $0.5-1.5k scope, that's a lot of rounds it'll take to pay off. Certainly doable, but...definitely not very cost effective if you're really looking at duplicating everything, I think.

Duplicating your match and hunting rigs, especially since it sounds like they're already matching, is the way to go for a trainer. But you said the "platform is rather expensive." Spending a lot of money to save a bit of money per shot sounds silly, when changing barrels is far simpler, I'm sorry. Having a hard time understanding your motivation here.
 
I may still go the route of a switch barrel off the 6mmBR as it is running a 700 footprint and so will the 223. Financially it makes more sense but I hate having incomplete rifles. Call it a personal quirk.

Having said that, if someone lays it all out and tells me there's no benefit in having a "copy" rifle, then I'd take that into serious consideration and maybe drop the AUD10,000 (about USD7,500) on a putting up a shelter and some sound management on my range. That will certainly make me shoot more which may have greater effect on my improvement. I'm already shooting a lot so I have my reservations.
 
Depends on skill level and proficiency.

If you’re needing to improve on position building, a rifle close to the same weight an balance is important.

If you’re deficient on recoil management or trigger control, a larger round or lighter rifle and a heavier trigger are important.


There’s not really a one size fits all answer to training. There’s almost no game or sport where you train the entire motion at once. You target specific skill sets and use the appropriate tool for that skill.

If I were in a budget that allowed components but not several full rifle builds and optics I would buy:

Single action
.223, .308, magnum bolts
.223, .308, comp, hunting barrels
2 or 3 triggers (2 stage and single, differing weights)
Single chassis + weight kit
Single optic

I would configure the rifle for the specific task.

Hunting: take off weights, use appropriate trigger and barrel

Matches: full weights, appropriate trigger and barrel

Positional dry fire: same as hunting or match setup depending

Trigger control: appropriate hunting or match setup + 2 stage and/or heavy trigger

Recoil: appropriate setup + .308 barrel. Braked or unbraked depending

Full match practice live fire but cheaper: match setup + .223


And you can miss match any and all you want.

That is a far better setup than having two or three rifles kitted out for very specific things. And cheaper.
 
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Depends on skill level and proficiency.

If you’re needing to improve on position building, a rifle close to the same weight an balance is important.

If you’re deficient on recoil management or trigger control, a larger round or lighter rifle and a heavier trigger are important.


There’s not really a one size fits all answer to training. There’s almost no game or sport where you train the entire motion at once. You target specific skill sets and use the appropriate tool for that skill.

If I were in a budget that allowed components but not several full rifle builds and optics I would buy:

Single action
.223, .308, magnum bolts
.223, .308, comp, hunting barrels
2 or 3 triggers (2 stage and single, differing weights)
Single chassis + weight kit
Single optic

I would configure the rifle for the specific task.

Hunting: take off weights, use appropriate trigger and barrel

Matches: full weights, appropriate trigger and barrel

Positional dry fire: same as hunting or match setup depending

Trigger control: appropriate hunting or match setup + 2 stage and/or heavy trigger

Recoil: appropriate setup + .308 barrel. Braked or unbraked depending

Full match practice live fire but cheaper: match setup + .223


And you can miss match any and all you want.

That is a far better setup than having two or three rifles kitted out for very specific things. And cheaper.
That's a really neat idea. I think I'll suggest that to my shooting buddy. For me personally, it would drive me nuts to have to reconfigure the setup each time but I love the idea.

I think I'm leaning towards getting a lighter rifle and heavy trigger. I'm definitely tweaking the rifle and noticeably when off hand.

Now I'm regretting getting rid of that pinewood derby looking 30-06 with the 10lb trigger.
 
What skill exactly is it you want to work on?

Building and breaking positions and shooting from barricades/unusual positions isn't really worth burning centrefire at 150 yards for.

Put a .22lr in a matching chassis and practise practise practise.
 
I built a matching Vudoo .22 to my 6GT centerfire rig. Same chassis, trigger, scope. Then I shot 10,000 rounds out of the 22 and discovered I almost like shooting 22's more than centerfire. I can shoot 250 rounds of 22 and not freak out about using 10% of my barrel life on a practice day. I started by using the 22 to work on getting stable on props. Then suddenly found myself shooting and enjoying shooting NRL22 and NRL22X matches.
 
I built a matching Vudoo .22 to my 6GT centerfire rig. Same chassis, trigger, scope. Then I shot 10,000 rounds out of the 22 and discovered I almost like shooting 22's more than centerfire. I can shoot 250 rounds of 22 and not freak out about using 10% of my barrel life on a practice day. I started by using the 22 to work on getting stable on props. Then suddenly found myself shooting and enjoying shooting NRL22 and NRL22X matches.
I'm in a similar boat, plus I can drive 30 mins to a range for 22LR, versus 3-4 hours for a mid-range centerfire range. Add to that the time spent at the reloading bench, and the cost on top of that, and abruptly an accurate 22LR repeater gets extremely attractive...
 
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I paid a shit ton of money for a .223 bolt, magazines, and barrel for my AI. Probably cost as much as a whole fucking rifle but it wouldn't be an AI, so.. there's that.
 
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150 yard range at the house a 22 seems like the best bet to me.

I dont compete but I wanted a full scale 22 to match my 700 in 308. I shoot 157 yards most commonly but I can stretch it to 235 from the same position.

Have a golf ball on a piece of #9 wire, a 3" piece of steel next to that and a crow on a T post at 157 yards.

At 235 I have a head silhouette, a coyote, a C zone steel target and another 3" piece of steel. I can stretch it to 300 if I shoot from the front yard but I don't do that often.

Like I said, I don't compete but I do hunt. Learning more positional shooting has helped my centerfire game a lot.

Sounds like you need a 22 to me.
 
I use a 22 RF at 200 yds for f-class practice on wind calling. Have flags out and my spotting scope for mirage. Its not perfect but does help my rhythm and mimics to some extent wind deflection of a 308 at 1000 yds.
 
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Had two rifles going for a while with about a year to year and a half difference in barrel wear (700 to 1000 rounds), 2 NMA2's. The biggest advantage was the older barrel was used for reduced target matches to save the other for across the course matches.

Since then changed rifles, actually new scoped NM flatop with 1 to 4x scope. Getting ready to build the copy of it, about half way through barrel life. Gives you a working back up at anytime or a loaner.

I've thought about doing the same for my long range gun but have decided to upgrade instead, then copy it later.