What is an acceptable amount of tolerance in trim length in your opinion? Seems no matter how I set my case trimmer, and how tight I make the set screws, the cases never end up being the exact length. I set to trim at 2.008, and end up with cases that are 2.0065 through 2.009. Is this an acceptable tolerence, or am I doing something wrong? I know the max. is 2.015 and the stated trim to length is 2.005. But for purposes of accuracy, how much of an affect is this going to have?
Re: Trim length
It's a game of consistency..... Guess you need to publish your goals with this ammo for a fair answer to be given. I know many shooters who don't trim their brass until the 3rd firing, and I fall into that group as long as they don't grow to quick on me!
What are you trimming with? My Forester's are pretty consistent... I have one dedicated to .308 and the other for .223... I set them and forget them, accept for occasional spot checks....
It's a game of consistency..... Guess you need to publish your goals with this ammo for a fair answer to be given. I know many shooters who don't trim their brass until the 3rd firing, and I fall into that group as long as they don't grow to quick on me!
What are you trimming with? My Forester's are pretty consistent... I have one dedicated to .308 and the other for .223... I set them and forget them, accept for occasional spot checks....
Re: Trim length
A few 0.001's in length doesn't make a difference. What is more important is that the necks are square... or should I say that the chamfer you're adding afterwards is square. This affects concentricity, how straight your bullet gets seated. If your bullet isn't seated straight, it isn't going to go into the rifling straight and it'll be rotating off-axis when it leaves the barrel. I wouldn't nit-pick over trim length if you use a handheld deburr/chamfer tool that has no alignment features. The bottom edge of that chamfer (the first and last point in the neck to contact the bullet) will vary more than the cut length of most trimmers and it will be less square. If you aren't using something like a K&M deburr tool or a trimmer mounted one, worrying about a few 0.001's of trim length is a moot point.
A few 0.001's in length doesn't make a difference. What is more important is that the necks are square... or should I say that the chamfer you're adding afterwards is square. This affects concentricity, how straight your bullet gets seated. If your bullet isn't seated straight, it isn't going to go into the rifling straight and it'll be rotating off-axis when it leaves the barrel. I wouldn't nit-pick over trim length if you use a handheld deburr/chamfer tool that has no alignment features. The bottom edge of that chamfer (the first and last point in the neck to contact the bullet) will vary more than the cut length of most trimmers and it will be less square. If you aren't using something like a K&M deburr tool or a trimmer mounted one, worrying about a few 0.001's of trim length is a moot point.
Re: Trim length
It's .308 Lapua brass. I've been using 175 SMK's but am going to try 155 scenars. It's on it's 3rd firing, and I trimmed after re-sizing (full length, all I've got right now.) I am basically looking to lower the amount of elevation I need to get to 1,000 yds, hence the switch to the scenars. I've not used them yet, and don't know if my rifle will even like them, but I'd like to make them as consistent/accurate as possible. I've been shooting for a good number of years, but have just recently started reloading. I am using an RCBS trim-mate.
It's .308 Lapua brass. I've been using 175 SMK's but am going to try 155 scenars. It's on it's 3rd firing, and I trimmed after re-sizing (full length, all I've got right now.) I am basically looking to lower the amount of elevation I need to get to 1,000 yds, hence the switch to the scenars. I've not used them yet, and don't know if my rifle will even like them, but I'd like to make them as consistent/accurate as possible. I've been shooting for a good number of years, but have just recently started reloading. I am using an RCBS trim-mate.
Re: Trim length
I went and took some pictures of the K&M chamfer tool since I've mentioned it in two threads today and the pics on the sites that sell it are worthless.
I went and took some pictures of the K&M chamfer tool since I've mentioned it in two threads today and the pics on the sites that sell it are worthless.
Re: Trim length
what site did you get it from?
what site did you get it from?
Re: Trim length
That's a cool tool. Can you mount it in a drill press, or some way where you don't use it by hand?
To the OP, don't worry about being off a few thousandths. Keep the cases within .002-.003, and you'll be fine. Sometimes the difference is caused by the rim of the case having a slight bow on the rim.
That's a cool tool. Can you mount it in a drill press, or some way where you don't use it by hand?
To the OP, don't worry about being off a few thousandths. Keep the cases within .002-.003, and you'll be fine. Sometimes the difference is caused by the rim of the case having a slight bow on the rim.
Re: Trim length
Thanks for the pics. I looked on the net for pics to no avail. I've been chamfering with an RCBS case prep center. It has no way of keeping the case in-line. I think it sacrifices consistency for time savings. The K&M tool looks like just what I need.
Thanks for the pics. I looked on the net for pics to no avail. I've been chamfering with an RCBS case prep center. It has no way of keeping the case in-line. I think it sacrifices consistency for time savings. The K&M tool looks like just what I need.
Re: Trim length
That is a pretty neat looking multi-tool! I may need to check one of them out!
That is a pretty neat looking multi-tool! I may need to check one of them out!
Re: Trim length
No, you can't mount it on a drill without modifying it, but there's no need. The stop and alignment features make it much easier to manipulate than a regular chamfer tool.
Got it from here: http://precisionreloading.com/KMProducts.htm
I don't think the pic they show adequately illustrates the benefits of it.
No, you can't mount it on a drill without modifying it, but there's no need. The stop and alignment features make it much easier to manipulate than a regular chamfer tool.
Got it from here: http://precisionreloading.com/KMProducts.htm
I don't think the pic they show adequately illustrates the benefits of it.
Re: Trim length
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">what site did you get it from?</div></div>
+1 on where can I get one...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">what site did you get it from?</div></div>
+1 on where can I get one...
Re: Trim length
You know, I just had the thought that you could just stick it in a socket to mount it in the drill since it's handle is a standard hexagonal size. Maybe wrap a bit of tape around it to hold it in...
You know, I just had the thought that you could just stick it in a socket to mount it in the drill since it's handle is a standard hexagonal size. Maybe wrap a bit of tape around it to hold it in...
