Hey fellas a Remington 700 I trued the face and lug abutments on won't cock consistently. If I fully cycle the bolt, no problem. If I dry fire the action and simply lift the bolt and put it back down it won't cock. If I do the same procedure as above, and it doesn't cock I can pull the bolt back a minuscule amount and a click is heard in the trigger and it cocks fine. It's a factory fresh 700. Tried the xmark it came with, a trigger tech and two timneys same results with all. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys
Gunsmithing Trued remmy 700 won't cock
- Thread starter hunter223
- Start date
Has nothing to do with the recall. Both my Remington rifles do the same thing. One has an X Mark, and the other a Tubb. I'd consider it normal.
Learned a little something. When I installed a bolt that had the extraction timing fixed it didn't do it at all. So that tells me that the correctly timed handle is pulling the bolt back to allow the sears to engage each other and two that the remmy factory handles are way outta time
Remington's primary extraction timing from the factory is hit or miss these days. I've seen 5Rs that needed work, and Wal-Mart SPS's that were perfect.
PE has nothing to do with this. It's the relationship between cocking piece and the trigger's transfer/sear bar. (people call it different things)
You can take the handle off the gun and it won't solve this. The solution (if were going to go there) is to either trim material from the trigger's transfer bar or remove some from the cocking piece of the fire control that contacts it.
The issue is the cocking piece isn't coming back far enough to allow the trigger to reset. Machining bolt lugs/receiver lug abutments often aggravates the "problem". It's not how Remington designed the action, but they have also clued in that it has no negligible effect other than requiring a shooter to pull the bolt back a smidge to get the trigger reset.
Last: If you own an RR prefix SN M700 the PE is shit. The handles are made wrong. A problem I am aggressively working at resolving.
C.
You can take the handle off the gun and it won't solve this. The solution (if were going to go there) is to either trim material from the trigger's transfer bar or remove some from the cocking piece of the fire control that contacts it.
The issue is the cocking piece isn't coming back far enough to allow the trigger to reset. Machining bolt lugs/receiver lug abutments often aggravates the "problem". It's not how Remington designed the action, but they have also clued in that it has no negligible effect other than requiring a shooter to pull the bolt back a smidge to get the trigger reset.
Last: If you own an RR prefix SN M700 the PE is shit. The handles are made wrong. A problem I am aggressively working at resolving.
C.
Yessir, that clarifies what I was thinking. I understand what you mean about the pe not being the fix etc but the point I was making is that the pe on these actions are shit and that the trigger wouldn't reset without manually pulling the bolt body back a smudge manually on the trued receiver and the untouched receiver but when I threw in the bolt with corrected pe, the bolt camming on the action pulled the bolt back enough to make it reset. I am correct in thinking that the actions are still safe to use, correct? Thanks Chad
Prolly 90% of the ones we've trued over the last 10 years have this. That's peeling .003" from the lugs and receiver abutments. A lot of them come in that way before we even touch em. It's just part of the deal anymore.
Err to caution on the "solution" though. You can very easily paint yourself into a corner because when you remove transfer bar/sear material you are altering the amount of striker travel. It can invite ignition issues with primers. Doubtful on a factory spring/striker as Remington actually did a very good job here. (Also to said and meant to be taken as those titanium/AL fire control kits are total shit.-save your money for something really helpful)
C.
Err to caution on the "solution" though. You can very easily paint yourself into a corner because when you remove transfer bar/sear material you are altering the amount of striker travel. It can invite ignition issues with primers. Doubtful on a factory spring/striker as Remington actually did a very good job here. (Also to said and meant to be taken as those titanium/AL fire control kits are total shit.-save your money for something really helpful)
C.
Seems to me this is more of an annoyance than an issue.
I can't remember ever needing the trigger to reset without cycling the action to pickup a fresh round.
I suppose it might be handy if a round doesn't go off with the first drop of the firing pin, but are there any other circumstances where this would make a difference?
I can't remember ever needing the trigger to reset without cycling the action to pickup a fresh round.
I suppose it might be handy if a round doesn't go off with the first drop of the firing pin, but are there any other circumstances where this would make a difference?
Well I've owned a lot of Remingtons and worked on a few just never noticed this issue before. The factory fresh untouched action does it and every new manufacture remmy I w gotten my hands on since posting this has done the exact same thing including two models on the shelf at a local store. thanks fellas
