Trueing a bolt
- Thread starter Russ89
- Start date
Truing is an attempt to locate every thing mechanical in the same exact plane/axis so theres no easy way for the action to deviate from those positions when firing, you cant expect a shot to go as straight and true as possible to each subsequent shot if everything in your action is wobbly and crooked.
I wouldnt bother trying to true up the ruger. A good barrel is 90% of a rifles accuracy, truing is an attempt to make up that remaining percentages. Hell these days Im not sure I would bother truing up anything. Easier to buy something thats already true and the ruger should be fairly good.
I wouldnt bother trying to true up the ruger. A good barrel is 90% of a rifles accuracy, truing is an attempt to make up that remaining percentages. Hell these days Im not sure I would bother truing up anything. Easier to buy something thats already true and the ruger should be fairly good.
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So if I were to build a rifle, which I am currently looking at doing with a big horn TL3 or nucleus I would then need to true it to the barrel that I will be putting on the rifle?
No. Tl3's and nucleus are true already. Trueing only needs to be done if it is out of whack. Install a good barrel and you're good to go.
No.
They are already machined concentric to the receiver threads and square as well.
As long as the barrel is machined correctly you’re GTG.
No, those actions are manufactured true right off the bat. No point in truing what comes true from the get go.
And since they are true then the barrel just needs to be cut to the current thread spec. And not only are they manufactured true, they are also indentical to one another so not only do you not need to true them, a smith doesnt even need to see the action to measure to cut a barrel for it. Each TL3 or nucleous barrel should be cut identical to any other barrel for that action.
So the other half of the turning story is as follows. Truing an action, as described above, covers the least of the benefits from having this service preformed. If an action was so out of square that this had any major effect on accuracy, over a barrel swap, you would know it working the action. Feeding issues, off center primer strikes, etc.
Don't take my word for it. Educate yourself. Preform this test yourself and compare to what people are telling you.
Take a stock factory rifle. Take new never fired brass. Measure the neck and case body on you concentricity gauge. Note the high and low sides on the casing. Load then fire in the factory rifle. Preform the same measurements on the brass again. Preform this same test for the next few firings on that brass. Record your findings.
Take a custom barreled action rifle. Take new never fired brass. Measure the neck and case body on your concentricity gauge. Note the high and low sides on the casings. Load and fire in the custom actioned rifle. Preform the same measurements on the brass again. Preform this same test for the next few firings on that brass. Record your findings.
What will you find? The true benefit of turning an action. Hope this helps.
Don't take my word for it. Educate yourself. Preform this test yourself and compare to what people are telling you.
Take a stock factory rifle. Take new never fired brass. Measure the neck and case body on you concentricity gauge. Note the high and low sides on the casing. Load then fire in the factory rifle. Preform the same measurements on the brass again. Preform this same test for the next few firings on that brass. Record your findings.
Take a custom barreled action rifle. Take new never fired brass. Measure the neck and case body on your concentricity gauge. Note the high and low sides on the casings. Load and fire in the custom actioned rifle. Preform the same measurements on the brass again. Preform this same test for the next few firings on that brass. Record your findings.
What will you find? The true benefit of turning an action. Hope this helps.
