Gunsmithing tubb final finish kit
- Thread starter r1rn04
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Re: tubb final finish kit
I ran them through my 700P in 338 LM. It fouled pretty bad so I figured why not. It did move the throat out a bit but the fouling is much better. I also use the TMS Throat Management System in my 260 Rem (Criterion barrel) and 6.5-284 (Brux barrel).
I ran them through my 700P in 338 LM. It fouled pretty bad so I figured why not. It did move the throat out a bit but the fouling is much better. I also use the TMS Throat Management System in my 260 Rem (Criterion barrel) and 6.5-284 (Brux barrel).
Re: tubb final finish kit
I used them in a fouling, random shooting m700. They actually shot better than anything I had tried to that point, and they did improve both accuracy and fouling in that rifle. I had done a lot of loading and other tweaking of that rifle before I did that though.
I used them in a fouling, random shooting m700. They actually shot better than anything I had tried to that point, and they did improve both accuracy and fouling in that rifle. I had done a lot of loading and other tweaking of that rifle before I did that though.
Re: tubb final finish kit
I used it on my factory barrel after doing a cryo treatment on it, and then 500 rds - took 35-40 rds to get going ag ain but WOW...
3" group at 600 yards, cannot complain.
I used it on my factory barrel after doing a cryo treatment on it, and then 500 rds - took 35-40 rds to get going ag ain but WOW...
3" group at 600 yards, cannot complain.
Re: tubb final finish kit
I have seen two barrels completely ruined by the tubb bullets.
NOT that EVERYONE will have that experience, but IMO nothing beats a good hand lapping, you can regulate the grit better. This is what I saw with the Tubb:
Starting at throat, rough marks, deep, but concentric and relatively even, a few more inches, they diminished and looked better but then a little further they were even fainter until by the last 4 inches or so of barrel there was no lap marks at all. Kind of like taking a piece of sandpaper on a block and starting on one end of a board and going to the other end, by midway your sandpaper is filling with dust and not as abrassive.
What rifle /caliber isn't shooting for you? How many rounds through it?
I have seen two barrels completely ruined by the tubb bullets.
NOT that EVERYONE will have that experience, but IMO nothing beats a good hand lapping, you can regulate the grit better. This is what I saw with the Tubb:
Starting at throat, rough marks, deep, but concentric and relatively even, a few more inches, they diminished and looked better but then a little further they were even fainter until by the last 4 inches or so of barrel there was no lap marks at all. Kind of like taking a piece of sandpaper on a block and starting on one end of a board and going to the other end, by midway your sandpaper is filling with dust and not as abrassive.
What rifle /caliber isn't shooting for you? How many rounds through it?
Re: tubb final finish kit
ive used on 3 guns... no issues, only good... but i use but i dont use the 2 top couse grits... just the finer ones... also the TMS
ive used on 3 guns... no issues, only good... but i use but i dont use the 2 top couse grits... just the finer ones... also the TMS
Re: tubb final finish kit
its a remington model 7 in 22 250, has about 3 boxes through it. its awful to clean too, scrub and scrub and always black residue coming out on the patches. Thought about a rebarell to 6mmbr, and still might. just thought I could try the ff kit to see if it would help.
its a remington model 7 in 22 250, has about 3 boxes through it. its awful to clean too, scrub and scrub and always black residue coming out on the patches. Thought about a rebarell to 6mmbr, and still might. just thought I could try the ff kit to see if it would help.
Re: tubb final finish kit
I used all the grits on the less than stellar barrel in my SPS tac in .223 and it really helped. It cleans much easier and I can run stiffer loads without pressure. Also, after the process and before I had it punched out to AI it the gunsmith borescoped it and said the interior finish of the barrel looked very good.
I used all the grits on the less than stellar barrel in my SPS tac in .223 and it really helped. It cleans much easier and I can run stiffer loads without pressure. Also, after the process and before I had it punched out to AI it the gunsmith borescoped it and said the interior finish of the barrel looked very good.
Re: tubb final finish kit
Zombie, need to borescope that thing and look at the barrel first and see what it looks like, see where the chamber is etc.
If the residue is black, that's more an ammo thing. If it's blue, then copper is the issue and you need to be cleaning with a copper killer, especially at the 60 round point.... and it may take a LOT of copper killing if it hasn't already been done. Always good to know what you are dealing with before you deal with it.
If the chamber is ok and the barrel is ok then cleaning and or lapping may help. If the barrel is so-so then it's all a waste of time and ammo, both being expensive.
Zombie, need to borescope that thing and look at the barrel first and see what it looks like, see where the chamber is etc.
If the residue is black, that's more an ammo thing. If it's blue, then copper is the issue and you need to be cleaning with a copper killer, especially at the 60 round point.... and it may take a LOT of copper killing if it hasn't already been done. Always good to know what you are dealing with before you deal with it.
If the chamber is ok and the barrel is ok then cleaning and or lapping may help. If the barrel is so-so then it's all a waste of time and ammo, both being expensive.
Re: tubb final finish kit
I don't see how you could hand lap a finished barrel unless you were planning on both cutting off an inch from the muzzle and rechambering it. That's why custom barrel blanks come ~3" longer than the finished length.
As for the Tubbs, I neither gained accuracy or lost it, but did see some improvement in fouling and 25-30fps.
I don't see how you could hand lap a finished barrel unless you were planning on both cutting off an inch from the muzzle and rechambering it. That's why custom barrel blanks come ~3" longer than the finished length.
As for the Tubbs, I neither gained accuracy or lost it, but did see some improvement in fouling and 25-30fps.
Re: tubb final finish kit
Forgive my ignorance and explain why a chambered barrel can't be handlapped- not an attempt to be flippant at all, just looking for the opposite view because I have worked for two manufacturers that did it on occassion with great success in improving bore quality. Keep in mind lighter grits were used and specific technique as employed by Steve Saturn was used. Infact I have seen on many occasions during my time in the QC departments, manufactured barrels come in from suppliers including custom barrel makers that had already been lapped after chambering.
Forgive my ignorance and explain why a chambered barrel can't be handlapped- not an attempt to be flippant at all, just looking for the opposite view because I have worked for two manufacturers that did it on occassion with great success in improving bore quality. Keep in mind lighter grits were used and specific technique as employed by Steve Saturn was used. Infact I have seen on many occasions during my time in the QC departments, manufactured barrels come in from suppliers including custom barrel makers that had already been lapped after chambering.
Re: tubb final finish kit
I used the kit, but I ran only the less course ones as instructed by the instructions, and even then I only ran half of them, the other half through my brothers gun. I didn't notice much accuracy gain, but a <span style="font-weight: bold">HUGE</span> difference in fouling and cleanup time.
I used the kit, but I ran only the less course ones as instructed by the instructions, and even then I only ran half of them, the other half through my brothers gun. I didn't notice much accuracy gain, but a <span style="font-weight: bold">HUGE</span> difference in fouling and cleanup time.
Re: tubb final finish kit
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Beef_Supreme</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...explain why a chambered barrel can't be handlapped...</div></div>
Theory suggests that as you push the lap down the bore, it will cut the most at the beginning if the stroke relative to the end of the stroke. This is due to the abrasive being sharper at the beginning compared to the end. When the lap is reversed, there is a new cutting edge of the abrasive repeating the same maneuver. It does not matter what the grit is the bore is supposed to be flared at each end. If you started off with a charged lap and only used it one direction, you would have a slight choke (tighter at muzzle than in front of the throat) which is not always a bad thing. Since barrel makers are advertising uniformity down to .0002", I can't see a flare at the muzzle helping accuracy.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Beef_Supreme</div><div class="ubbcode-body">...explain why a chambered barrel can't be handlapped...</div></div>
Theory suggests that as you push the lap down the bore, it will cut the most at the beginning if the stroke relative to the end of the stroke. This is due to the abrasive being sharper at the beginning compared to the end. When the lap is reversed, there is a new cutting edge of the abrasive repeating the same maneuver. It does not matter what the grit is the bore is supposed to be flared at each end. If you started off with a charged lap and only used it one direction, you would have a slight choke (tighter at muzzle than in front of the throat) which is not always a bad thing. Since barrel makers are advertising uniformity down to .0002", I can't see a flare at the muzzle helping accuracy.
Re: tubb final finish kit
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Beef_Supreme</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Forgive my ignorance and explain why a chambered barrel can't be handlapped- not an attempt to be flippant at all, just looking for the opposite view because I have worked for two manufacturers that did it on occassion with great success in improving bore quality. Keep in mind lighter grits were used and specific technique as employed by Steve Saturn was used. Infact I have seen on many occasions during my time in the QC departments, manufactured barrels come in from suppliers including custom barrel makers that had already been lapped after chambering.
</div></div>
I could see where the combination of a light lapping job and a specific procedure might work. Hey, I've never even seen it done...just know that when I've gotten actions barreled it has been explained to me why I have to buy 27" to get to 24".
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Beef_Supreme</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Forgive my ignorance and explain why a chambered barrel can't be handlapped- not an attempt to be flippant at all, just looking for the opposite view because I have worked for two manufacturers that did it on occassion with great success in improving bore quality. Keep in mind lighter grits were used and specific technique as employed by Steve Saturn was used. Infact I have seen on many occasions during my time in the QC departments, manufactured barrels come in from suppliers including custom barrel makers that had already been lapped after chambering.
</div></div>
I could see where the combination of a light lapping job and a specific procedure might work. Hey, I've never even seen it done...just know that when I've gotten actions barreled it has been explained to me why I have to buy 27" to get to 24".
Re: tubb final finish kit
Well, normally- per what I have been told over the years- you want to trim atleast an inch off the muzzle end, especially on button rifled barrels.
Most of the lapping done at the factory that I am familiar with uses a bore slug and lapping compound, and seems to be pretty daggone effective. However the lapping (before or after) chambering method I was taught is not quite as invasive as the bore slug,and doesn't harm the throat. Also the way I have been doing it is helpful in getting grit down the entire bore and upon inspection, the lap marks are even and uniform. So far the purpose has been to get rid of all of the little tiniest of burrs and knock the tops of the ridges off of the reamer marks, thus reducing copper fouling, thus increasing the potential for accuracy.
Well, normally- per what I have been told over the years- you want to trim atleast an inch off the muzzle end, especially on button rifled barrels.
Most of the lapping done at the factory that I am familiar with uses a bore slug and lapping compound, and seems to be pretty daggone effective. However the lapping (before or after) chambering method I was taught is not quite as invasive as the bore slug,and doesn't harm the throat. Also the way I have been doing it is helpful in getting grit down the entire bore and upon inspection, the lap marks are even and uniform. So far the purpose has been to get rid of all of the little tiniest of burrs and knock the tops of the ridges off of the reamer marks, thus reducing copper fouling, thus increasing the potential for accuracy.
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