Gunsmithing Tubb Speedlock Assembly

[Jester8]

Was just wondering how much work is involved in putting one of these together for a Model 70 SA. The cocking piece on my winny broke about a month ago. I have the speedlock piring pin, and spring. Superior Shooting Systems site says that it is recommended a gunsmith install them, but I wanted to see if anyone had done it themselves and what thier experiences were. If only the damn cocking piece would get here. I have been waiting a month and a half.

 

[USMCj]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

If you are talking about the complete assembly, it is very easy to install. Use the shoe lace method, there is a video on it, but I cant find the link.

 

[Jester8]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

This is a Winchester Bolt, so the firing pin assembly just screws into the rear of the bolt. Thanks though, that video came in handy for my 700. I am asking about having the screw the pin into a specified depth, and how it gets secured into the cocking piece. Also some tips on pushing the firing pin spring down, that's a tough bastard.

 

[Keith Johns]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

Do they even make one for an m70?

Are you trying to fit a Remington part in a Winchester?

I install them in 700s. As far as I know they are only made for 700s.
Anyways they're easy to install but you MUST check firing pin protrustion. Needs to be about 55 thou

 

[Raven 6]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

Not 100% sure on a Winchester, but I would say the firing pin and spring is held in with a small pin. Go on Brownells website and look at there rifle scematics and you should get a good idea of how it is assembled.

 

[Target In Sight]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USMCj</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you are talking about the complete assembly, it is very easy to install. Use the shoe lace method, there is a video on it, but I cant find the link. </div></div>

Here ya go my Kali brotha:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDy2GrIx6p8

Dyl..

 

[9H_Cracka]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

Timing of the safety cam is the issue, hence the need for someone that knows what they are doing to install it.

 

[doc76251]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

Obviously getting it out of the bolt is easy. To remove the firing pin from a Winny you need something to push against that is the diameter of the firing pin but not larger than the spring. I recommend a vice with wooden jaws to hold the firing pin as you push against the bolt sleeve.

Point the thing some place safe and put the safety to "Fire". (It ain't supposed to fly off but sometimes crap happens.)



Push it forward about 1/4" or so and turn it to the right or left. You will feel it unlock and push back against your hand.

Be ready for that.

Ease back and the whole thing will come apart.

Make sure you can push straight against the vice. If you lean you could snap off the base of the firing pin.

Assemble in reverse order.

Cheers,

Doc

 

[Jester8]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

WHoa, come back from work, and there is a load of responses!! Thanks guys, yes this is for a WINCHESTER.

Long story, kind of short:


While dry firing one night I noticed that I couldn't lift my bolt anymore, finally got it open and the shoe on the cocking piece had cracked and broken off. So, I ordered a new Tubb firing pin, spring, and cocking piece that supposedly reduces lock time for a POST-MODEL 70. I have the Firing Pin and Spring, I am just waiting on the damn cocking piece that has been taking forever and a day to get here.

I might just fiddle with it when it gets here, but not fully install it then I will probably take it to a gunsmith here in town.

DOC: Got'er pulled apart, there is a load of pressure in that spring!!

Nine Hotel:

Can you explain how that works?

 

[Keith Johns]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

EDITED, I answered my own question. I didnt know Tubb made a firing pin assembly for an M70. I thought he only had them for 700s.

Sorry about that.

Hope you get it!

 

[Jester8]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

Superior Shooting Systems makes them for both the Remington 700 and the Winchester Model 70. Check out superiorshootingsystems.com. They have them listed there. They also make them for Rugers, and Savages.

With the Winchester, there is the cocking piece, and the spring + firing pin. I think with the Remingtons it is sold as a whole assembly. They make'em they just don't have any in stock right now.


AZ: you were a little quicker on the draw than me...ha ha. Yep they make'em

 

[Keith Johns]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

Ya I just looked up the Speed lock system for M70 and found pics.


I've never owned an M70, and dont work on them at all. For some reason I've always used 700s

 

[9H_Cracka]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

Jester - the M70 FP assy and safety work together. The cutout for the safety cam may have to be changed (material removed) in order for the safety to work correctly. If the cam cutout is too far one direction or the other, then the safety cam will not be able to move the firing pin back and block it - the cam will just butt up against it and the safety selector will not move into safe.

 

[Jester8]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

Ok gotcha, I'm not messing around then, to the smith it goes. Thanks!

 

[doc76251]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

Jester,

That is your best bet but I would play 20 questions with the smith to ensure that he knows Winnys. There are a lot of guys out there with a fist full of Gun Digest books that think they can do it all. That bolt is the only thing between you and a major "ooops". With a clinical mind and a slow hand you can do it. If you aren't comfortable removing metal and spending $$$$ for what you screw up, find a Winny smith. I know many that I'll let re-tube my gun but none that I'll let screw with the bolt (then again I haven't asked). A good 98 Mauser smith will suffice nicely.

Cheers,

Doc

 

[jdn159]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

Not an easy job. I did one speedlock on a model 70 and repaired a cocking piece on another i had bought used. the hard part is getting the proper shape of the cocking piece wher the safety cam engages. if too much material is removed, the safety won't work properly. what will happen is when engaged and the trigger is pulled, the gap between the cocking piece and safety cam will allow the pin to move. if the safety is then moved to the firing position, the firing pin will fully drop. The used gun i had bought was worked on by someone that had no business disassemling it. they had removed material on the cocking piece for some unknown reason. i was able to build it back up with weld and reshape it so that it now properly works.

With the speedlock kit, the protrusion is adjusted by how much of the pin is threaded into the cocking piece. once properly adjusted, the two are locked with a supplied pin that you need to drill a hole for. The amount of protrusion needed is supplied in the directions.

Again, it is a pain in the butt and would not recommend it for someone who is unsure about it. Also, if you don't understatnd firing pin protrustion, i wouldn't recommend it. I had actually taken the fouled up cocking piece and firing pin to a gunsmith and he wouldn't touch it.

 

[USMCj]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

My bad, didn catch the mod 70 part.

Thanks for the link Target.

 

[Jester8]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

Thanks fellas, it has been a few since I could get on here because the site was being upgraded. Your wisdom is appreciated!

 

[Jester8]

Re: Tubb Speedlock Assembly

I re-read all of your guys responses, and it got me thinking. I took my Winny to the smith yesterday to get trued, and rebarreled. Most of the rifles he owns are Winchesters (you should see his collection!). I got to talking with him about the speedlocks that he has put in his own rifles. He said that they are a very tricky to get the cut in the firing pin just right. He said that he was had them "work" for awhile, but then the material (aluminum) slowly wears away, rendering the safety useless. He said he never uses a safety anyways. Well, I like the idea of having a safety on my rifles.

So down to the nitty gritty here, such as jdn159 said that he had to put some epoxy/weld in the groove to get it to work properly. If a guy cut the groove a little bit deeper than needed and then took some Devcon and "filled" in the gap, slowly shaving it down, until the right depth was reached, I wonder if this would be more durable than leaving the aluminum bare? I think that this would provide a surface that wouldn't wear as easily.

What do you think?