Use the front hole as your base, drill a second for rail and leave the second stud for a sling. You don’t need that much railestate for bipods
Yup, LOL. I'm not too good with power tools and don't want to make any mistakes. I'll guess I'll find some gunsmith out of Waco to install it for me once I find a good notched bipod from Harris or Atlas. Thanks for your help!!!
Going to a gunsmith is a good idea. Many of us are not handy with tools. As for me, breaking stuff with hand tools is my super power lol). Just drilling a hole isn't all of it. Your sling studs have a captive fastener on the inside of the barrel channel...possibly (probably) covered by material. A new hole should also have a captive fastener inside and epoxied in place. Simple job for a gunsmith.
seekinsprecision.com 
www.bauer-precision.com 
www.midwayusa.com 
www.opticsplanet.com 
Yea in terms of Harris' looks...LOL yeah about as 'modern' as crocodile smile
Oh, they aren't bad...they can be made to work. But on a sling stud it kept loosing up and the one I had did not have notched legs. Hit the button and out to the end they go. Trying to tighten the lock screw on the legs in an incremental position just didn't work...one or the other would slide during shooting session.
You might get more "focused" information if you provide more information about your use case for your rifle and attachments. Hunting? Range play? Competition? Some combination or plan? How many rounds do you expect to shoot in a year's time?
I am so grateful for your advice and time. I am just a beginner, my new Bergara is my first long range rifle and I am excited to start customization. I like the idea of the single hole with the adjacent slotted hole on picatinny rail for the bipod mount.Going to a gunsmith is a good idea. Many of us are not handy with tools. As for me, breaking stuff with hand tools is my super power lol). Just drilling a hole isn't all of it. Your sling studs have a captive fastener on the inside of the barrel channel...possibly (probably) covered by material. A new hole should also have a captive fastener inside and epoxied in place. Simple job for a gunsmith.
if going to a gunsmith, look at something like this from Seekins who make high qual stuff:
1. This is their Universal mount. Use the front sling stud location for the hole and have another drilled and fastener installed for the slot.
View attachment 8347727
https://seekinsprecision.com/ubm.html
2. Their SRS rail
View attachment 8347728
SRS Rail
<p><strong>SRS Rail</strong></p> <p>The Seekins Precision SRS was designed with a Picatinny rail mounting point and a reinforced, non-rotating sling attachment. The SRS provides the shooter with multiple solutions for carryi
I put the SRS rail on a Rem 700 in an HS Precision stock. They make these to fit HS, Bell and Carlson, and McMillian fiberglass stocks. It will be too short to match up with your sling studs, but again...if going to a gunsmith then a new fastener/screw position is easily done. For me, this got rid of the rear sling stud but provides a sling mounting hole in the back. Worked wonderfully (and yes, I installed it myself and managed to not break anything! haha). If you went with this, you wouldn't need the rear sling stud and you can have it removed and plugged up by the smith.
Note, I'm not one of the gunsmithing experts here and others may correct any inaccuracy or bad advice I've provided.
Best of luck and welcome to the Hide...the rudest rifle forum on the net! hahaha
P.S. these Seekins items can be found from other retail sources other than Seekins if out of stock. Amazon, Midway, etc. Just make Google your friend....or, your gunsmith may have other brands/sources that they prefer.
Cheers
Any questions, ask before you buy. Most here would be happy to help.
). The rail will come with screws that will go right into the active fasteners already there for the sling studs. That's a great contingent, thanks!there are options to use the sling mount to attach a rail section, without losing the sling mount.
there are also rail sections that include a cup for a sling attachment.
Yes, that seems perfect. The swivel studs are 3" apart, and the slotted hole should compensate for any variation in length of the rail. I noticed in the picture the also rail has a horizontal hole to accommodate a sling.
I saw what you did there...
shop.accu-shot.com 
shop.accu-shot.com 
Someone caught it. Good eyesI saw what you did there...
If I'm not running an ARCA rail, I like the B & T Pic Rails as they have a flush cup for sling attachment machined into the rail.
BT15: 3.35" 1913 Picatinny Rail - B&T Industries
The BT15 - 3.35" 1913 Picatinny Rail will accommodate hole patterns with a center to center spacing of 1.76 – 2.78" and a relieved back to accommodate curved surfaces. It also has a flush cup allowing the use of Flush Cup sling swivels and sling studs (neither provided). A standard sling stud...
BT17: 4" 1913 Picatinny Rail - B&T Industries
The BT17 - 4" 1913 Picatinny Rail will accommodate hole patterns with a center to center spacing of 2.2 – 3.5" with a FLAT back to accommodate flat surfaces. It also has a flush cup allowing the use of Flush Cup sling swivels and sling studs (neither provided). A standard sling stud and sling...
Well, from what I've researched so far, I would prefer the picatinny rail as long as I can mount a notched bipod, the type with springs..., don't mind spending $300 plus as long as it works well.
As a beginner, you may find the SH Online Training to be very worthwhile. You can subscribe to it as long as it's useful; for me, that was maybe four months. To subscribe:
As is usually the case @Baron23 , there’s more than one good way to skin a cat.
Fair enough, and yes I am a shooter and go to the range often (Just new at 'long range' shooting) however, I do own two Arsenal AK's rifles, a Lever action as well as several hand guns and went through several thousand rounds just this last year. You can't call yourself a Texan if you don't have at least 3,000 rounds in your gun safe.
I think I like this the best, just not sure if the 'swivel' hardware for the sling comes with the rail. I'll find their number and give them a call. Thanks!Cheryl, it’s easier than some make it out to be. I’ve done it many times using bipod rails from accu-shot. Kasey is also a respected vendor here. Here’s the rail you can use that will bolt right up to your existing stud locations and still allows for using your sling:
View attachment 8348492
It’s as easy as removing the bipod studs and using those same holes to bolt in the rail. You will need some machine screws to do it, but if you call accu-shot before ordering and tell them your application, I’m sure they can supply you with the direct bolts/machine screws.
Oh, and welcome to SH.
ETA: I see that the same info was posted a minute before I did.
If you mean the swivel for your sling, then you would be correct, as was Baron23 to a point. You would need this in addition, for your current sling. I don’t want to mislead you.
As much as I've enjoyed rifle competition for the last six years, as much as I've learned, the people I've met... it can't hold a candle to the stories and the characters of four decades of skeet....
Lots of fun and incredible characters in skeet. And Dallas gun club...been there. Incredible. I'm guessing you were in the clubhouse? Did you go into the locker rooms there? And the fields...there are none better in the country. All you need is lots of $$ and some good connections. haha
I saw your posts.
She uses her existing sling that attaches to two studs, front and back. That’s what the flush cup to sling stud adapter is for. It goes in the front on the rail. What are you missing? Pictures above say it all.
What I’m missing is why the heck she would want to put an adapter in the middle just to use QD hdwr.
noveske.com Just FYI..., I did end up buying the 'Seekins' SRS Bipod Picatinney Rail w/the 3" spacing as well as the Atlas BT46-LW17 PSR Bipod at the Standard height with ADM-170-S Lever. Even got a military discount and free shipping. You guys are great!Going to a gunsmith is a good idea. Many of us are not handy with tools. As for me, breaking stuff with hand tools is my super power lol). Just drilling a hole isn't all of it. Your sling studs have a captive fastener on the inside of the barrel channel...possibly (probably) covered by material. A new hole should also have a captive fastener inside and epoxied in place. Simple job for a gunsmith.
if going to a gunsmith, look at something like this from Seekins who make high qual stuff:
1. This is their Universal mount. Use the front sling stud location for the hole and have another drilled and fastener installed for the slot.
View attachment 8347727
https://seekinsprecision.com/ubm.html
2. Their SRS rail
View attachment 8347728
SRS Rail
<p><strong>SRS Rail</strong></p> <p>The Seekins Precision SRS was designed with a Picatinny rail mounting point and a reinforced, non-rotating sling attachment. The SRS provides the shooter with multiple solutions for carryi
I put the SRS rail on a Rem 700 in an HS Precision stock. They make these to fit HS, Bell and Carlson, and McMillian fiberglass stocks. It will be too short to match up with your sling studs, but again...if going to a gunsmith then a new fastener/screw position is easily done. For me, this got rid of the rear sling stud but provides a sling mounting hole in the back. Worked wonderfully (and yes, I installed it myself and managed to not break anything! haha). If you went with this, you wouldn't need the rear sling stud and you can have it removed and plugged up by the smith.
Note, I'm not one of the gunsmithing experts here and others may correct any inaccuracy or bad advice I've provided.
Best of luck and welcome to the Hide...the rudest rifle forum on the net! hahaha
P.S. these Seekins items can be found from other retail sources other than Seekins if out of stock. Amazon, Midway, etc. Just make Google your friend....or, your gunsmith may have other brands/sources that they prefer.
Cheers
