Using a Zero that isn't 100yd - Why?

[TheOtherAndrew]

At what distance do you zero your bolt action rifle AND WHY?

(Mainly interested in people that use non-100yd zeros and dont shoot ELR - but still welcome all answers, should be enlightening)
If you do zero at 100yd now, but tried a different distance for awhile then decided to go back to 100yd: talk about why non-100yd zero made your life harder/why you went back to 100.
------------------------------------------------------------
EXAMPLE - a rifle used only to shoot at matches - You may decide to zero (center of reticle) at 300 and have your turret set at 3.0mil. When you shoot inside 300 you could hold in upper half at established DOPE. When shooting inside 700ish you hold/dial 0.1mil/10yd. Past 700 you dial in your DOPE.

Advantage being you can be quicker transitioning multiple mid range targets for majority of match play targets. Though the obvious comeback would be you know the distance to the say three targets you'll be engaging so you write those 3 numbers on your armband and its easier that way for you.

*But what if all of a sudden an 8" target pops up at an unknown range (like 583yd) and you need to hit it within ~15seconds? You mil it and get ~570-90. How would you tackle that?*

If you're wicked smart you may see the pattern and know to just add 0.8 to whatever your 500yd DOPE is. But Id wager not many people would know to do that under time.

 

[308pirate]

At what distance do you zero your bolt action rifle AND WHY?

(Mainly interested in people that use non-100yd zeros and dont shoot ELR - but still welcome all answers, should be enlightening)
*If you do zero at 100yd now, but tried a different distance for awhile then decided to go back to 100yd: talk about why non-100yd zero made your life harder/why you went back to 100.

Use a search function. This fucking topic has been beaten to death already about 500 times.

The short answer is that it depends on the reticle and turrets on your scope.

But to stick to your "precision bolt action rifle" example I'm going to assume that its scope includes a reticle with stadia lines subdivided in angular units (milliradians or minutes of arc, it doesn't matter which), the turret adjustments are in increments of the same angular units that the reticle is subdivided, and that the elevation turret has a zero stop.

In that case you zero at 100 and adjust/hold for wind and elevation at whatever distance you're shooting using dope (ballistic solver or dope card). If you want to know why, use the search function.

If you want to convince us to use something other than 100 yards in this particular case, don't waste your time.

 

[Aftermath]

If the scope has easily accessed turrets, zero at 100 and DOPE yourself.
If the scope has turrets you need a dime to adjust, decide an acceptable point blank zero, zero and DOPE yourself.

 

[308pirate]

If the scope has easily accessed turrets, zero at 100 and DOPE yourself.
If the scope has turrets you need a dime to adjust, decide an acceptable point blank zero, zero and DOPE yourself.

Damn, I thought I was being concise.

Well done sir, well done.

Though I will say that some scopes come with turrets that seem like they'll work for dialing until you actually spin them. Then you realize it's a good thing they're capped. Steiner P4Xi 1-4X comes to mind.

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

I did do a search. Nothing useful came up. Maybe you have a link you can share...

Im not wondering where I should set my scope Im asking for legitimate reasons why people may zero at say 300yd...how does it help you do something easier/quicker than 100yd zero does? Ive done the experiment myself and want to see if others have come to similar conclusions or maybe they have a new nugget of info I didn't think about.

*Have you EVER considered zeroing at something not 100yd and how it would work your numbers/DOPE in a different way that may wind up being more useful to you for certain applications (if you only shoot 1000yd bench rest, you zero at 1000yd a lot of times cause it makes your life simpler...but it limits your application of that rifle).

 

[Feniks Technologies]

It’s been answered.

If you can’t dial for whatever reason, then there’s a case for something other than 100yds.

If you have a reliable optic and can dial the turrets, just zero at 100 and then dial whatever “zero” you want for the day.


It’s literally that simple.

 

[Feniks Technologies]

Also, 1k is *never* a zero. It’s just a setting for the day.

If you shoot 1k F class or BR and you get your dope/sighters on at 1k and decide to see your turret to zero…..that’s only valid for that time and such. You won’t go back the next day and it be the same. Hence, it’s not a zero.

A 100yds zero will be the same today, tomorrow, sea level, or 10k up. Provided you performed the zero and fundamentals correctly.

 

[308pirate]

Just another overthinker who's going to reinvent the wheel.

 

[gunsnjeeps]

I know a guy who zeros at 88 yards. His picnic table is 88 yards from his berm on the property line.

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

Just another overthinker who's going to reinvent the wheel.

Pretty much (you must be a hoot to be around)!

Unsure what exactly I did to offend you - but maybe you should go make your own post about how much of an over-thinker I am?

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

It’s been answered.

If you can’t dial for whatever reason, then there’s a case for something other than 100yds.

If you have a reliable optic and can dial the turrets, just zero at 100 and then dial whatever “zero” you want for the day.


It’s literally that simple.

I do agree with you on that. It just changes the numbers, bullets trajectory is the same no matter what you do with the scope.

 

[ArTeeKay]

Pretty much (you must be a hoot to be around)!

Unsure what exactly I did to offend you - but maybe you should go make your own post about how much of an over-thinker I am?

I wouldn't poke the bear. You happened to ask a question that has been the subject of a many threads, and has generally been satisfactorily answered. There's very little you can say that will add to the conversation meaningfully, so much so that I cant even imagine what that might look like. The user you're replying to generally has little tolerance for that, or for "askholes" as they might be called, and you've unfortunately managed to put yourself squarely in both groups. Best thing to do now might be to add something meaningful to a conversation that hasn't been beaten past death already.

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

Im on my own post talking about what I want to talk about. Im sorry you guys are so "triggered" over my asking about 100yd zero and considering perhaps moving where the center of a reticle ends up.

I will say I had forgotten how petty forums can be.... but Im minding my own business so y'all can pound sand if you cant get past the ultra-triggering nature of my post.

Im actually not here to play [who's the coolest kid in school], but I can if thats all you have. Do your damndest!

-THATaskhole

 

[ArTeeKay]

You know, I take it back. You should definitely rehash agreed on community wisdom in brand new threads and necropost as hard as you possibly can. That will absolutely make people appreciate the things you have to say, especially when that thing has been said before, and make people pay attention when you have something new to add.

/fts,io.

 

[cas6969]

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

Way too predictable cas6969. (-1)

 

[GreenGO Juan]

How would you tackle that?*

Edit- Know your dope. It doesn’t matter where you zero. As long as you have a system that you have practiced.

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

You know, I take it back. You should definitely rehash agreed on community wisdom in brand new threads and necropost as hard as you possibly can. That will absolutely make people appreciate the things you have to say, especially when that thing has been said before, and make people pay attention when you have something new to add.

/fts,io.

Im not looking for appreciation. Im looking for reasoning. Not one person has articulated why 100yd. Ive just heard 3-4 maybe 5 ppl that are essentially just saying "Im cooler than you, I heard somebody else zeros at 100yd so obviously you should too."

Feniks had the closest thing to a cogent thought.

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

Anybody out there that has TRIED a non 100yd zero before on a bolt action rifle (notice, I never claimed it to be superior/inferior) - why was it worse than 100yd?

My fear is that everyone who has so far commented is such an 'under-thinker' it is actually surprising to me.

 

[ArTeeKay]

Anybody out there that has TRIED a non 100yd zero before on a bolt action rifle (notice, I never claimed it to be superior/inferior) - why was it worse than 100yd?

My fear is that everyone who has so far commented is such an 'under-thinker' it is actually surprising to me.

Man, self contradictory in a single sentence. Usually it takes people two different posts to do something like that.

And care to diagram out the next bit? By my "under-thunk" reading, you're afraid of being surprised by people being idiots? Either that, or you don't understand what a dangling participle is, or how to correct it.

What're the odds this can get moved to the Bear Pit now? My other half is out of town for the weekend and all of a sudden this thread seems like it might have some potential.

 

[Im2bent]

Been asked a million times - zero distance?

Any reason to zero a rifle chambered in 6.5 CM at any other range than 100 yards? Zero at 100 yards and DOPE everything after that? VooDoo

www.snipershide.com

 

[Dot3]

I know a guy who zeros at 88 yards. His picnic table is 88 yards from his berm on the property line.

That ain’t shit. I know a guy who zeros at 7 yards. Because…well….reasons

 

[Rob01]

I zero at 100 yards so everywhere I go from there will be dialing up or holding over. No matter if 10 yards or 1000. Some stages at matches might need a mid range dialed on and hold over and under but for a basic zero 100 yards is what i use on all my precision rifles.

 

[Feniks Technologies]

I know a guy who zeros at 88 yards. His picnic table is 88 yards from his berm on the property line.

Same as 100yds. You have to get around 17-20yds either side of 100 before it’s different.

Which is why ranges like RO aren’t worried if they line you up at 97yds or 103yds to zero in the morning.

 

[308pirate]

My fear is that everyone who has so far commented is such an 'under-thinker' it is actually surprising to me.

You're not that fucking smart. In fact, you're doubling down on stupid. The fact that you haven't found even a fraction of the discussions here on the issue is plenty of proof.

So please continue.

But just so you know you're not owed an explanation on why you're wrong.

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

Just another overthinker who's going to reinvent the wheel.

Pick a lane bud

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

Well thanks for the laughs all. Id say it was fun if it weren't so darn easy!

(what happens in the bear pit?)

 

[FWoo45]

Pick a lane bud

Tried 200 when I was new(er) to shooting at distance with passable glass. 100 works better. Quit being a douche.

 

[cas6969]

Anybody out there that has TRIED a non 100yd zero before on a bolt action rifle

My 6mm Creemoo really is zeroed somewhere around 160ish +/- yards because it gave a point blank range thingamabob out to about as far as I'm likely to shoot it. I don't know where most of my rifles are zeroed honestly. (who can remember all that? lol)

 

[JMGlasgow]

Mils or MOA? That's where this is going right?

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

You guys come on; are y'all like 12 - nobody has the slightest sense of humor? You dont have to get mad at words on a screen, I didn't say anything even close to the line. Y'all got close but I can take it.

Basically 308buttpirate thinks he's the BIIIIIG SHOOOOWWWW, which I guess I found amusing how his loyal follower Artimus Kay was like "dont you poke that bear," so obviously had to. Arty kinda secretly wishes he had the loyal following of Mr. pirate so he tried a few jabs of his own that fell flat. Handful of decently funny posts later (and maybe 2 on point posts) here we are; rest of you joined in on the fun from what I can tell - happy Easter.

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

Mils or MOA? That's where this is going right?

Awesome idea. Might as well at this point - I started MOA cuz 'merica but no denying the base 10 thing mils are just simpler to me once you get the hang of how to convert the 2.

 

[Matches Malone]

100 yd zero?

New to sport of LR shooting and trying to understand 100 yd zero. I get it that long range calculations can be made from that zero but can't same calculations be made from say a 200 yd zero?

www.snipershide.com

Question on Zero Distance

This is my first post and I am a Rookie at this game, so please take it easy on me. I have access to a 1000 yard range with a sturdy shooting bench 45 minutes from my house, but can only get a 25 yard shot at a target at my house before I go to the big range. I know it is best to zero at 100...

www.snipershide.com

308 zero for hunting

I have a browning x-bolt .308 shooting 150 grain hornady performance round . If the gun is shooting 1/2 inch low at 50 where would it be shooting at 100 and 150 yards ? Thanks !

www.snipershide.com

Etc

 

[JMGlasgow]

Awesome idea. Might as well at this point - I started MOA cuz 'merica but no denying the base 10 thing mils are just simpler to me once you get the hang of how to convert the 2.

Why would you ever need to convert between the two? Your friends don't all shoot mils?

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

I guess Id answer that by saying: like this thread - theres always some oddball that shows up to the party.

 

[Im2bent]

Is this your reticle?

 

[Dot3]

Is the circled part the moon phase indicator? Because that begins to affect your drag factor for once you get out to 1200 yards or so

 

[308pirate]

My 6mm Creemoo really is zeroed somewhere around 160ish +/- yards because it gave a point blank range thingamabob out to about as far as I'm likely to shoot it. I don't know where most of my rifles are zeroed honestly. (who can remember all that? lol)

 

[308pirate]

Awesome idea. Might as well at this point - I started MOA cuz 'merica but no denying the base 10 thing mils are just simpler to me once you get the hang of how to convert the 2.

 

[cas6969]

Is the circled part the moon phase indicator? Because that begins to affect your drag factor for once you get out to 1200 yards or so

View attachment 7851283

I believe that indicates the current location of the Death Star. Once it comes around the other side of that center circle it's clear to shoot.

 

[rlsmith1]

Navy SEAL told me the most accurate zero is a 36yd zero. Not sure why that isn’t an option

 

[3rd Monkey]

I zero at 36 yds and then confirm at distance. I run a Tikka T3X in 300 WM. The reason that I zero at 36, is that it's more or less a 200 yd zero, keeping everything inside of 200 under an overhold of 1.5". The rest is all in the dope like everyone else is saying. Zero doesn't really matter for anything other than a relevant starting point to adjust dope.

 

[Dot3]

I believe that indicates the current location of the Death Star. Once it comes around the other side of that center circle it's clear to shoot.

Ahh that makes sense. I should have read the effing manual.

 

[Jack Master]

Ultimately. Here is what he is after.

Finding your Speed Drop Factor

Follow Sniper's Hide and pick up the latest information on all things precision rifle-related. Sniper's Hide Training is for the serious tactical marksman.

www.snipershide.com

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

Thats half of it. Other half is a double zero reticle - to be clear, I still believe a precise 100yd aim point is useful. Its just a way to integrate more info with less clutter than the moon phase indicator TMi above lol. And you have to make it different enough to avoid HVRT et al and their 'coveted' gravity/atmosphere patents; cuz they love racking up billable hours.

 

[Jack Master]

Even using a speed drop system we'll still use a 100 yard zero (always).

100yds removed the environmental effects of bullet flight. At 0 da, or 7000 da my 100ys zero will not change enough to worry about it.

100yds removes the wind variables.

Every rifle range has a 100yd target board. Every hunting guide, match zero day, training facility and po-dunk neighbor in BFE has a 100yd target that we can use to "check zero"

We still zero our rifle at 100 yds. Then if you want to adjust your turrets or slip you caps to a 300 yd dial. Fine. But 100yds is where we should be checking our rifle point of impact matches our point of aim for the reasons listed above.

 

[TheOtherAndrew]

 

[Feniks Technologies]

Well yes and no from my data. At 400y my impact zone is +/- a tad over an inch from 2kDA to 7.5kDA (to rectify I would just holdup of center dot vs bottom based on where I am. When I zero at 100 dead nuts and move out to 600 I have to worry about ~4" horizontal wiggle in a right twist (not the end of the world but if I can make it better I dont see why I would avoid it).

If you zeroed in no wind dead nuts at 400 you essentially have 0 horizontal wiggle at 600y. Its the same idea as zeroing off to the left side waterline of your 1" target at 100yd, just does a pretty good job cancelling out horizontal shift - which in turn makes left vs right side wind calls more consistent (so if you have a 10mph wind from 9OC out to 3-800 its identical to a very similar 10mph wind from 3OC instead of +/-~0.2 (so 0.4 total difference, which is just over an MOA so can play a factor at times) - its minutia but Ive found it to work nicely for me.

Screenshot for worst post outside of bear pit for 2022.

 

[Feniks Technologies]

Let’s see what’s easier…..

- “zero” @ 400yds for spin drift

- reach over and click .1 left wind for 600yd spin drift

 

[Snuby642]

Damn, I thought I was being concise.

Well done sir, well done.

Though I will say that some scopes come with turrets that seem like they'll work for dialing until you actually spin them. Then you realize it's a good thing they're capped. Steiner P4Xi 1-4X comes to mind.

Your asking about 100 yard zero and then you pull a 1x4 patroll scope out of your ass.

You should set that at 50 yards by the way.

Do they still make internally adjusted turrets? I have a relic in the safe with a pencil barrel and a 3x9 on it from the 1970's.

You are also going to be pissed off when you realize you're bitcoin won't work in the slots.