• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

Hummer

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 20, 2009
702
2
77
SC Cradle of the Confederacy
I built up a new course gun over the winter and took it to its first full range 80 Shot match last Saturday and a reduced range 50 shot match last month.

I was running 37.8 Gr. Varget with 150 Sierra and got off the 600 with 198-8X. Held beautiful elevation at 600 but cleaning it was a bear. Took 3 - 15 pass sessions with bronze brush to get the carbon out after leaving the 300 yard line followed by multiple patches and same after leaving the 600 with only 22 rounds on it.

Haven't used Varget that much but it seems to give lots of carbon deposits and just wondered if others have found similar or had better results with VV?
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

What barrel you running with?

I dont clean a bore as often as you do, I clean when accuracy is affected. That is usually 200 rounds or so. I'd say Varget isnt dirty in the traditional sense of ruining accuracy quickly.

I used VV a few years ago in a 260. Best as I can remember is was pretty good just pretty scarce.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

This particular barrel is a Douglas Air Gage medium Palma contour about 26" and feels nice and smooth running tight patch down bore though

I know from borescope examination there are a couple thousand right angle grooves impressed into the grooves and left on top of the lands from the reamer. At this point there is no sign of heat checking on top of the lands.

At this stage I have 258 rounds on it and the space between the right angle grooves on top of the rifling are mirror finish.

I have nice even middle of groove bullet contact from throat to muzzle and muzzle carbon print is perfectly symetrical to edge of barrel.

It is not a lapped custom barrel by any stretch.

I have some VV 140 I thought I would try next. Also some 4895.

If I am shooting long range I will clean after every string while barrel is still hot as I don't want the carbon getting cold and hard and becoming abrasive which it surely does. Besides politicians carbon is our worst enemy.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

45 strokes with a brush on a barrel that has 250 rounds through it damn...I've only used a brush on one barrel and that was a 06 rifle from 1962 that was just plain foul...

While varget does seem to burn dirty for me too I've never needed more than maybe a dozen patches and hoppes to get my rifles clean.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

Used Varget a lot back when shooting High Power NRA matches with a AR 15 and it always cleaned up with several patches and Hoppes, I never noticed any heavy build up of carbon from it.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty


Basically to understand the problem is the beginning. Then to correct the problem and third to keep the problem from returning.

The biggest enemy (besides some politicians) we face is carbon be it in barrel or cartridge case. I have been doing a goodly amount of testing the last three years and I have now proven to myself that I have wasted some awfully good barrels over the years by my cleaning methods not being effective as I perceived them to be.

The best bumper sticker I have ever read said:"IF YOU THINK EDUCATION IS EXPENSIVE, TRY IGNORANCE"


About seven years back (doesn’t seem that long) a friend brought me a 700 Police Sniper with stainless barrel that was almost new. At 600 rounds the barrel was gone. I cut threads and set it back and rechambered with a short throat tight 308 reamer I had made up and he went back to the party. He got 1100 rounds that run before it went. Cut it in half and no rifling ½ in front of chamber.

This guy and another friend are 50/60 vintage and one had a 600 yard range next to his house and these guys got together about six evenings a week year round and fired off 20 to 40 rounds. My friend with the Police Sniper would fire three to five shots and let it cool and another 3 to 5 over a two to three hour period. My other friend had a Chandler Sniper Rifle and he had 10,000 rounds on that barrel at that time and it was still driving them. The difference was the friend with the Chandler was shooting all his while the barrel was warm and immediately cleaning his barrel with bronze brush first and then put it away.

That got me to thinking, our test barrels used for ammo acceptance went 15,000 to 17,000 rounds before they went out of spec. As highpower shooters we think we have done great things with a barrel if we get 5000 rounds. Well think of this way, most chome moly barrels are 4140 and if test barrels and highpower barrels are same steel why then did the high-power barrel fail?

As highpower shooters how many guys do you see cleaning their barrels before they leave each firing line moving back? I know some guys that will clean before 600 but most of us don’t clean until we finish for the day. I believe that is what is killing us, we are allowing the barrels to remain fouled the entire day.

Then it hit me. Only took 35 years but OK I am slow. The difference in the gov’t test barrels is they are only fired a few rounds and cleaned. Ammo tests are conducted as follows:

Three accuracy rigs are taken to range with their log books. Each rifle is placed in a “vice” we called Frankford Arsenal Mounts or hard mounts and one shot is fired at 600 yards. Guy in pits radios back and tells the gunner where he hit and he adjusts the wheels to center the group on a large sheet of blank paper. Ok he generally fires three rounds to get it on and when he is there the pit guy radios back to run the string.

The gunner loads five rounds in mag and has 5 rounds in hand while at the same time the pit man has pulled and pasted the target. The gunner then fires all ten rounds as fast as he can operate the bolt (generally these were 1903 actions) to get all rounds in same wind condition. A good gunner will cycle 10 rounds in 15 seconds since there is no aiming and the mount returns to original condition on firing.

Pit man will pull target and measure the group. If it is in acceptance accuracy he radios the measurement and changes the paper while the gunner removes the rifle from hard mount, records the rounds fired in barrel log and replaces rifle 1 with rifle 2 and repeats the scenario. Same thing for rifle three.

If one of the groups is not acceptable he then has target changed and he fires a group with Reference Ammo which is a special lot known to produce acceptable groups with good barrels. If the group with Reference ammo is not acceptable they deadline the rifle and go get another. If the Reference ammo group is within spec they will retest one time with the lot up for acceptance. If it passes fine, if not the lot is rejected.


I set out to run some experiments to determine the contributing factors based on the above. Three years ago or four (I have CRS) I got a new 700 Remmy 308 for the action and I figure OK I have this thin 22” barrel brand new, lets see if I can extend the life.

First I measured the throat with an erosion gage.

Note: To save lots of writing go to:
http://www.beastwerks.com/Throat_Erosion_Gauge.htm which will explain what these are for and how they are used.

Next I examined the chamber neck/throat area with a bore scope. I have Olympus Series 5 7MM 30 degree and it is marvelous for 7MM and up tubes. I made notes of things I saw such as reamer marks in forcing cone etc.

I have a goodly number of 173 pulls so that was to be my test bullet with 4895 mainly.

I started shooting it and cleaning every 12 rounds or so and I had 50 dedicated IMI cases that were recycled through this rifle time and again. First loading was IMI factory with 180 grain Sierra BT hunting bullets.

I fired the 50, cleaned the barrel and immediately reloaded the ammo and a very strange event happened. The primer pocket residue was quite soft and fell out almost as a powder. First I thought the IMI boys had a different primer mix but read on, as it turns out they did not. Next I borescoped the barrel again and took erosion readings every so often.

At 8 rounds erosion gage showed 8 ½ rings, at 100 rounds 10 ½ rings, at 150 rounds top of 11th ring and then it stopped. The reason for the rapid advancement is the raised metal on rifling left over and from the reamer marks being blown away.

OK I had 11 rings at 150 rounds, 11 rings at 250 rounds, 11 rings at 350 rounds, bottom of 11th ring at 529 rounds, 754 rings bottom of 11th ring. Note the 11th ring is about .015 wide and the other rings are centered every .100”. (Note: testing at APG many years ago determined the wear rate on 30 cal rifle barrels normally advanced at .100 per 1000 rounds. This is the reason the Garand/M14 gages have .100” separations between rings.
Otto Haenel was Test Director on that test and he told me he took 10 new M1s and a 2 ½ Ton GI truck full of ammo and after initial measurements fired 1000 rounds on each rifle and then took the barrels to metrology for measurement. The testing was stopped when the barrels reached rejection criteria which is about 8 to 9 inches at 100 yards depending on whether it was M1 or M14.

Borescoping during this series was amazing in that when I got my bore scope I looked at every bolt gun I have and made notes of throat condition as compared to the number of rounds. I already knew that on most of my tubes on my target guns (308/30.06) the reamer marks are generally gone at end of the first HP match or two which with zeros is about 200 rounds of course.

Now I have a barrel at 754 rounds that has been cleaned very frequently and I still have reamer marks ! ! ! Now it is a given that the 22” sporter barrels were shall we say did not have a high life expectancy from the accuracy standpoint but here I have one that is going strong.

Quick side note: At this same time frame I found a Sears Mod 53 (Mod 670 Winchester basically in 30.06) and I did the same procedures and had it up to 500 rounds and the throat condition was the same. Basically I had similar conditions in 308 and 30.06 with frequent cleanings.

Back to the Remmy 308 saga. I decided to see what a hot schedule would produce. I had upped the number of shots to 22 round strings between cleanings and taken barrel temps. Depending on ambient temp the barrel temp taken 3” from muzzle gave 122 to 126F shooting 22 rounds in about 12 minutes to 14 minutes which is what is normally takes me at 600. I upped the firings schedule to about a 8 min minute string and barrel temp went to 165F. Bore scope and erosion gage showed no change. Next I shot a string in maybe four minutes and barrel temp went to 190F at the muzzle!

This time I recorded movement on the erosion gage. I had noted a little heat checking around 650 that took a 30X borescope to see and it was progressing slowly. At 900 rounds I was just below 11th ring. At 1009 rounds the last trace of the reamer marks were gone, I was still just below 11th ring and pulled the barrel off and rechambed with 7/08 heavy barrel I know call the Confederate Swamp Gun. It is a swamp cut Pacnor barrel about 23 ½ inches that was originally chambered in 280 Remington and had about 3500 rounds on it. A friend pulled it off and gave it to me.

OK lets go back a bit, during my initial borescope sessions with my bolt guns I saw a horrible condition. Gouges about ¾” long in the throat area. Only thing I could figure was dirty ammo and if I drop ammo I take great pains to clean it off and I really could not fathom what was happening and why then the little Remmy 700 gave me the answer.

After one firing session at the 250 round point I did something different, I did not reload the ammo immediately but put it on bench and loaded it a week later and the primer residue was nice and hard as I was used to finding. Next I borescoped the barrel and I have a identical gouge I saw on my other bolt guns.

This ammo had gone from the loading tray to CaseGard box to gun and back in box and back to loading tray and the cases didn’t even touch the bench. It didn’t take long to figure out it was the primer residue dropping through the flash hole when I cleaned cases and it stuck to the carbon on inside of case. On firing it got up into throat and was laying there waiting for the next round to embed it in bullet jacket and start engraving the barrel.

I then read where Mitch Maxberry had concluded primer residue was doing the same to his guns.

Next I had a nice conversation with a PhD. Chemical Engineer and asked him about the formation of carbon and what happens. He confirmed it does get hard when it cools down but had never seen a study to determine hardness against time.

Now everyone that reloads has noticed on some ammo when the expander ball is pulled back through the neck the amount of force goes up tremendously and on cases that have not had the necks scrubbed the force is enough to almost lift the loading table. Obviously this is not helping the neck and stretching follows.

Pull you FL dies down, wipe off the expander button and see if you have any scoring on your expander ball. Bet you do. Now think of this, what caused it? What is put in steel to harden it? Carbon. A brass case is not hard enough to score hardened steel expander ball but embedded carbon inside the case mouth sure is.

I now thoroughly clean my case necks, size them without expander ball and then on a separate operation I run a expander mandrel in from the top and expand it to where I have .001 to .0015 grip on my long range ammo.

To aide in case neck cleaning I take Q tips and ER to the range. Immediately after firing I just wet a Q tip and wipe around the inside of the case mouths and this does two things. It removes massive amounts of carbon from the case neck and what it doesn't remove will keep it soft till you can clean them better. You will be impressed in just how much carbon a Q tip will remove and it will make you wonder of just how much is still down inside the case body waiting to be deposited in your barrel the next time you shoot after it has hardened up.

A lot of folks judge the quality of their ammo by the amount of seating force. Uniformity of velocity is directly related to BULLET PULL forces and not bullet seating forces. MIL SPEC on M118 Long range has a minimum bullet pull of 10 lbs. Ball ammo has a min pull of 45 pounds. THERE IS NO MAXIMUM BULLET PULL SPECED ! ! ! !

Want a shocker, pull down a box of M118 Match and measure the amount of force required to unseat bullets with a Force Gage. It is not uncommon per ammo engineers to see a bullet pull of 300 POUNDS. Anybody want to bet a variation of 10 lbs to 300 lbs won’t cause trouble in River City?

I measured the amount of force my Hollywood loading tool produced in an effort to check bullet pull. I used two force gages. I sent one up to measure the amount of down force in pounds and the other to measure the amount of force applied to the handle. If I remember correctly the pull force was about 6 ½ times higher than the handle force so 10 pounds of handle force is 65 pounds of pull and I have had M118 want to lift my loading table off the floor and with what is on it is several hundred pounds.

It wouldn’t hurt to invest in a force gage. They are on ebay for a fraction of what they sell for new. I would get no less than a 50 lb gage and better yet a hundred pound. The electronic gages will measure and record the highest force delivered during a cycle and are very nifty.

Carbon in the case neck will grip the bullet by differing degrees, clean out that carbon and you will find you have a much more uniform bullet pull.

Food for thought. Check Sierra ballistic tables for 30 cal match bullets at 1000 yards. Say 2700 fps and then check 2600 feet per second and 2800 feet per second and see what the difference is in bullet drop. OK if your extreme velocity spread is 50 feet per second and you know the bullet will drop 40 inches with 100 feet velocity change then you know you are looking at 20 inches of vertical dispersion before you add in sight error, heart beat, mirage, wind, etc.

You want long range ammo to have an extreme spread of 25 fps or less if you expect to stay anywhere near the X ring. Otherwise you have done it to yourself to show up with a combination that won’t do it.

Oh by the way I have chronographed M118 and 60 feet per second variance between rounds is about average. I have seen it at like 80 feet per second. Anyone want to go to 1000 yards with ammo shooting 36” of elevation?

Bottom line guys, clean your barrels often, clean your brass every time, clean your primer pockets making sure no carbon goes though flash hole as CARBON IS THE ENEMY right behind anti gun politicians.


 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

Been using Varget for years in multiple barrels and never found it to be dirty at all. Quite the opposite. A few patches of Butch's Bore Shine, let it set for about 20 minutes, bronze brush down and back 10 times, a few more patches of Butch's set for 20 minutes and then dry patch and it's clean. Never had to do more with Varget.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

Sir,

Over the past 8 years, I have used Varget in .223, .243, 7mm-08, .308, and .375H&H. In my experience,Varget has proven to be cleaner burning than other comparable powders such as IMR4064. My experience is small sample size, only 3000 to 5000 rounds total (7 to 8 pounds of Varget, plus other powders). However, even where the other powders yield similar accuracy,I have used Varget because there seems to be less carbon residue in the barrel, chamber, and in the cartridge cases.

Having said that, it is not my intention to not dispute your findings on barrel erosion. I applaud the methodical, rigorous testing you have done to investigate and understand the condition.

I would be interested in the feedback you get from the chemist regarding the apparent hardening of the carbon deposits over time.

Warren
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

Most people can't extend a barrel's life by cleaning it frequently as they don't do it correctly or get a little too enthusiastic with the rod and brush.

FWIW my 308 gas gun has probably 1500 rounds through it by now and still shoots great, groups as well as it did out of the box and the barrel doesn't foul easily either.

I know what you mean by carbon deposits in primer pockets though, for some reason I get a bit more of that with varget than with AA2520 which was my previous favorite powder.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

I wrote that piece on another forum a couple of years ago and the chemist said it definitely got hard but that he had never seen or heard anyone discussing what time frame it "set up" in. I was having trouble remembering (got CRS) the details this morning when I wrote up original so I remembered where I had posted it and went and cut/pasted it here and dumped the original.

Yes if you don't use caution you can ruin a barrel especially a muzzle cleaned rifle with a rod and even worse a jointed rod.
Even a bore snake can ruin a barrel.

I had a conversation with a well known barrel maker about two years ago and he said if people properly cleaned barrels his business would drop 75%.I readily agreed.

Actually thinking about it, one could leave the barrel dirty and next day fire a cast bullet down bore to lap the barrel.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

Hummer,
Very interesting read, on your thoughts on carbon in the primer pockets, makes me glad that I am cleaning my brass with SS media. I have had very good luck getting my SD's down by switching primers, from CCI to Tula, shootin 175's in my TRG 22 I was getting less than 10.
I am now waiting on my 7mm08 barrel and am sitting on 16lbs of Varget, so I am crossing my fingers that the rifle likes it.
Again, thanks for sharing.
SScott
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

The case against carbon is easily proved by examining ones reloading gear.
1. Look at inside of case mouths with good glass and you will see they are scored.
2. Look at expander ball on your loading dies and you will see they are scored.
3. Expander balls as new are not scored, nor is the inside of the case mouths.


The more I got to thinking about it there was only one conclusion I could come to. The carbon is deposited all over the inside of the case and when it is sized down and the case extracted from die the carbon embeds in the neck wall AND the expander ball rubs past scoring the expander ball which is hardened steel. Once the ball is scored it acts like a button rifling a barrel and the grooves on the ball dupe on the inside of the case mouth.
In the case of primer residue which is many times larger it results in gouged barrels.



This was really brought home a number of years ago when I started making my own expanders. At first I made them from 300 series stainless rod and they were polished mirror smooth and cases were run up on them and scored the expanders badly but I didn’t know how to get rid of the carbon in the case mouth.


Next I went to oil hardening tool steel and heated them to bright red and quenched them in oil.
THEY STILL SCORED but not as bad.


Then when I found out what stainless steel pins would do and I ran cleaned cases up on new expanders made same way and from that point on no more scored expanders, no more scored case mouths and no more carbon issues save for what is deposited in rifle barrels.
Contrary to popular belief rifle barrels are soft and much softer than expander balls thusly it stands to reason hardened carbon left in bore will be picked up by bullet jackets and merrily lap away taking out and /or roughing up barrels in the process.


In hindsight I guess I should have entitled this thing something else so more folks would read it and become aware of what carbon is doing to them.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

I use Varget in my 7mm08, too.

The difference is that I use more of it behind a heavier bullet. Mine burns very cleanly. I wonder if you'd still be making a mess if you used more powder.

Enjoy,
Bob
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

I think that Varget is dirtier than whatever goes into FGMM (IMR 4064?). I have noticed that if I switch from FGMM to my handloads (with Varget), the group size stays small, but if I go from Varget to FGMM, it takes about 5 shots for the groups to calm back down. I don't know if this is an indicator of cleaner or dirtier, but it seems to be.

Also, from time to time, I will notice what looks like a little piece of white extruded powder in my tumbler after tumbling. It looks to be rather large pieces of incompletely burned Varget. I can't think of what else it could be.

As to cleaning, Varget seems to come out of the barrel pretty easily. A few patches with solvent and a few dry patches and it is clean. The issue is mainly the powder residue that is left in the barrel between cleaning.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

There is no more room for any more. I was loading 38 gr. and I noticed there was indications of a full case when 150 is seated. So I backed off to 37.8 (as a start) and it is still indicating compressed load.

I have a couple thous 168s but I figure I will have to drop to 35 grains to use them????

I now use the Swiss method of cleaning which I have come to really like as of late.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

What do you mean "Swiss cleaning method?" Do elaborate.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

My latest cleaning method is as follows and I have done this with 30 cal and 7MM bores.

1. Just as soon as I get through firing for the day I run two greased patches down bore to get out the loose stuff quick. By quick I mean the other guys have not even finished firing and my bolt is out and the grease is open and I am "with it".

2. Glop up a bronze bore brush (for the caliber used) with Grease. I use military Grease Auto and Artillery GAA or Grease Aircraft Wide Temp Range WTR and I make ten passes on the bore. (You can find this on ebay fairly regularly. Both these greases are outstanding for cleaning bores as well as their other uses. The WTR is used to grease wheel bearings on B52s so I have it in my trailer bearings and would have it in my vehicle bearings if they were not sealed. There is one source on ebay that has it in 5 gal buckets and if I did not have 80 lbs laid it I would order one of these for sure.)


3. Then two greased patches again. This removes carbon knocked loose by bronze brush and these patches will be jet black ! ! !

4. 10 more passes with bronze brush followed by two greased patches. If second is black repeat again. If they are not black you have an outstanding finish in your barrel ! ! ! !!


5. 10 more passes with bronze brush again followed by two greased patches.By now you may see patches coming out gray.

6. 10 mores passes with bronze brush.(now you have 40 passes total) and your patches should be showing just a trace of black. Be advised if your barrel is tired with lots of heat checking where there are thousands of crevices to pack carbon into that you may never achieve a clean patch. Just last month I was checking a take off heavy barrel and I did like 100 passes in the above scenario and every time patches came out black.


7. I generally end up with five greased patches at end and clean bore and leave the grease the last patch leaves on the bore till I fire it again.

I generally don't worry about the copper as long as barrel is shooting nicely. If it starts to act up I will remove the copper. Otherwise I leave it in.

During a long match I will clean quickly when I leave each yard line (200, 300 and after firing 600 yards). At the 200/300 yard lines I do a quick clean and will do 20 quick passes with bronze brush followed by three greased patches. This is because in full distance matches there is considerable time between relays and barrels (carbon as well) cools off and starts to set in for the long haul.

I find that leaving the bore with the grease deposited by the last patch enables the first shot from clean bore to be right on and not a flier as is normally seen on conventional cleaning schedules.

The Swiss have used the grease method since the 1890s.

Keeping the carbon in the barrel from getting hard is the name of the game for long barrel life.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

I have never heard of the Swiss method. Lube + abrasive stuff is usually a bad combo unless you are looking to abrade metal (like when sharpening a knife).
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

Not exactly the same principle here as sharpening a knife you are forcing a small surface contact area with force against an abrasive and the metal residue left in surface of the stone is released by the application of a lubricant to restore the surface.

I prefer to think of the barrel surface as a file or broach.

The surface left in bore by manufacturing leaves a surface that acts like a file and this shaves off copper with the passing of each bullet and depending on surface retains copper in the barrel. Lapped barrels removes a large amount of tool marks (file surface) and thusly the smoother the surface area the least likely it is to remove/retain jacket material.

To remove the copper requires a mild abrasive tough enough to cut copper but breaking down before metal is removed. That is what J-B paste advertises. Cuts copper but not steel.
Obviously removing too much copper from bullet jacket is not going to be best for accuracy especially at longer ranges.

Even worse you leave abrasive dust that is for all practical purposes powdered diamonds and embed this in copper jacket and you make the problem worse.

Thusly to remove the material that is soon to become an abrasive is the name of the game. If you wait till it has cooled you have just done it to yourself.

I knew the Swiss had done this since 1890s and I have never seen a newly imported Swiss rifle with a bad bore. Never heard of one either. Their cleaning kits don't have solvents in them. Only grease.

The K31 I got for Christmas was examined closely before I did anything with it and the bore looked just like a brush had deposisted grease all through it as a result of a number of passes made and left as a grease applied by a patch cannot been seen.

If you borescope a Swiss bore you will see a very fine surface finish. Borescope buttoned barrels not lapped before button makes it's pass and you will see thousands of small rings left by the reamer and these are forced down by the button and remain clearly visible with a good borescope. Actually a broach removes material from the groove and makes all the tool marks run in one direction but alas I am not aware of anybody using broach rifling these days except maybe S&W. Last time I went through their plant I saw a guy rifling revolver barrels with a broach.

Another reason I like the grease method is you don't spill it, it doesn't run all through your action and softening bedding etc.

Then again there is the skin contact and there are some bore cleaners you do not want to have your skin exposed to as it will work on your body in very unpleasant ways. That is if the vapors don't take you out first.

Another thing a good bore scope will show you is heat checking on top of the lands. You scrape off copper, build it up and engraving forces build up and thusly friction to get the bullet by the obstruction. The tops of the lands look like a dried river bed with cracks running all directions.

Obviously the tops of the lands have carbon deposits on them as well.

Then the bigger your case the more powder is burned and the more carbon is left. On the other hand you have the 30BR cartridge which burns little powder and outlasts highpower barrels about 4 to 1 and shoot exceptionally well to boot.

Chroming barrels helps a little but problem is chrome is not evenly applied in barrels. Larry Moore told me a PHD engineer from Colt told him back in 60s that the best was to ruin barrel accuracy he knew of was to chrome it. To confirm it he gave this guy a fine shooting smallbore rifle to chrome plate. He got it back and shot it and he said it never shot well again.

Thusly this explains why the large acceptance accuracy is standard on military rifles. ( ARs 4.5", Garand 5", M14 5.5" at 100 yards from machine rest) Now ever so many thousand barrels one would get a perfect chrome job and if you get one of these you have arrived. I knew the gunsmith from 6th Army years ago and he said he had a M14 that still shot match acceptance accuracy with 33,600 rounds on it and he said he pulled it as he didn't want it going out in a match. Army M14 match rifles shot 4.5" at 300 yards ! ! ! !






 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

Here is a pic of some of the carbon deposits I seem to get in my 223, 308 and 22-250 cases when using varget. I tumble my cases overnight and chamfer necks/clean primer pockets thoroughly too:

S5002902.jpg


Haven't seen this with other powders. Other than that I don't get carbon deposits anywhere else as far as I can tell & my barrels clean easily enough. So I'm left scratching my head over this.

As far as chrome lining goes I have chrome lined AR barrels and stainless and the stainless are always better shooters. I don't know what I was thinking going with an 18" CL 1:7 for my newest build, it's still a good shooter but not like my stainless 1:8s.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

Its interesting to hear so many barrels going south in so short a time. I've heard the exact opposite in the 308. Thousands of rounds through factory barrels and still holds the .5MOA it did out of the box, well trigger tweeked and then onto the firing line!

I know quite a few 308 owners who dont clean until 200 rounds or so and have 5000+ rounds downrange.

That residue pile is interesting. I have used Varget for years now. The interior of my cases are blackened but when I have scrapped the interior, checking for incipit case seperation issues, I barely get any soot.

I have always considerd the scratches on my dies to be silicon related not carbon caused. I punch my primers before tumbling to open the primer pocket. So I figure its the fine dust and sand scarring my dies the slight amount I see. I die body maybe hardassed steel but the expander and primer punch sure seem far more ductile.

Having played with coal in my youth and as an adult with diamonds I'd say not all carbon is created equal.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

I have had the same experience as above. I have shot varget exclusively in my 308 and do not clean until accuracy goes south (around 400 rounds). I have way more than 600 rounds on my TRG and it still shoots lights out. I have also never noticed the carbon as shown above when I tumble.

Josh
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

The M24s at the Sniper School at Benning were up to 15,000 rounds last I heard but it must be remembered they are only fired slow fire and cleaned often.
The M24 spec called for 10,000 rounds at one minute intervals.
One barrel made it completely through.
These were cleaned every 25 rounds.
These barrels are also hook cut and lapped in manufacture (Mike Rock 5 R design) and not the run of the mill button rifled barrels with a thousand rings in them.

Just wondering where rifles were/are you are hearing about? And what kind of ammo?
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

Factory LTR a decade old. Shot the snot out of it and some COF was intense. Still does .5moa

Douglas barreled Remington PSS that did 20,000 some before going 1MOA. (Dont own that one but I believe the owner)

Factory barreled Savage, 5000+, it NEEDS 20 to 30 rounds to 'smooth' it out after a good cleaning. Does its best work with 100 rounds down the tube.

ER Shaw barrel with 600 rounds that goes 200 rounds between cleanings. Good days I put 4 out of 5 rounds through a 3" hole at 600 yards.

Douglas barreled remington I own that has over 10,000 and still does .5moa. (does better but I dont like to brag)

I'm sure more guys will chime in as the day goes on.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

My experience is from my TRG. I used 44 grains of varget with 175 SMKs and then switched to 47 grains for the 155s. No issues. 4-500 rounds between cleanings.

Josh
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hummer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How are you tumbling? Is this residue you scraped out or fell out in tumbling? </div></div>

I tumble overnight in walnut media. I use an RCBS four station cleaning/chamfering/primer pocketing thing to prep my cases after tumbling them, I usually see this stuff come out either when I use that machine or when I tap the cases lightly on my reloading bench afterward. Probably just need to try a different cleaning media.
 
Re: Varget in 7/08 seems to be exceptionally dirty

I pulled up QuickLoad and have some comparable loads written down to try with 4895, RL 19, VV N140. Based on case volume it would appear I am going to have to drop from the 37.8 grain range down to 35 grain when I try 168 Sierras or I will be compressing loads which I don't want to do.