Sounds simple enough - I appreciate the informationSimple. Takes 5 min. Tiny Allen head bolt back side of receiver. Loosen. Put towel or hand over bolt stop to catch spring. Reassemble.
Sounds simple enough - I appreciate the informationSimple. Takes 5 min. Tiny Allen head bolt back side of receiver. Loosen. Put towel or hand over bolt stop to catch spring. Reassemble.
@littlepodHey Guys,
Wonder if anyone can help. I have a 360 that is awesome. Shoots Eley Match great, etc. I also like to shoot some rimfire BR comps and I have a BR stock also for it. I have a lil single shot sled adaptor that i got to work with the action so I can single feed.
My issue is that when single feeding, I dont get reliable extraction and ejection. More often then not, the round is stuck in the chamber. When its back in my chassis for PRS, no dramas at all.
Any ideas guys?
If it feeds and ejects in the chassis but not in the BR stock then I would look at the stock to action fit. It is possible to put the action in a bind If the fit is not correct. Loosen the front action screw and see if that corrects the problem. If it does you have a bedding problem.Hey Guys,
Wonder if anyone can help. I have a 360 that is awesome. Shoots Eley Match great, etc. I also like to shoot some rimfire BR comps and I have a BR stock also for it. I have a lil single shot sled adaptor that i got to work with the action so I can single feed.
My issue is that when single feeding, I dont get reliable extraction and ejection. More often then not, the round is stuck in the chamber. When its back in my chassis for PRS, no dramas at all.
Any ideas guys?
What’s the best option for lube and where should I be lubing? Just want to make sure I’m getting everything.Lube? It will break in some but you should still have it lubed
Cheers mate. Will have a play around this week.If it feeds and ejects in the chassis but not in the BR stock then I would look at the stock to action fit. It is possible to put the action in a bind If the fit is not correct. Loosen the front action screw and see if that corrects the problem. If it does you have a bedding problem.
I put couple drops of Lucas gun oil on the bolt and spead them all around. Just enough to make it slick without dripping with it. Does the job well.What’s the best option for lube and where should I be lubing? Just want to make sure I’m getting everything.
I know exactly what you’re talking about.Hey guys kinda new Vudoo owner. I’ve owned it for a while, just don’t have a lot of rounds through it. The last time I had it at the range the bolt would get “stuck” if I wasn’t running it perfectly in line. Does this get better with more rounds?
I use a 50/50 mixture of Mobile 1 Synthetic 10W30 motor oil with Mobile 1 ATF Synthetic transmission fluidWhat’s the best option for lube and where should I be lubing? Just want to make sure I’m getting everything.
The Mobil 1 transmission fluid ATF or 75w-90 (manual)? Thank you.I use a 50/50 mixture of Mobile 1 Synthetic 10W30 motor oil with Mobile 1 Synthetic transmission fluid
on all my guns and everything else that needs lube.
Got this formula from a guy on YouTube and won't bother looking ever again for a better lubricant!
There may be better but I don't care as the above formula works superbly for me; the 1qt bottles of each give me enough lube to last many years if not a lifetime for a grand total cost of only $22.00
I have a Volquartsen pistol and a custom 10/22 that jammed with other lubricants.
When I switched to the 50/50 blend above, the Volquartsen never jammed again and the 10/22 jams maybe two to three times every 500 rounds which is far better than the 30+ times before.
It works wonderfully with my Vudoo!
ATFThe Mobil 1 transmission fluid ATF or 75w-90 (manual)? Thank you.
I’m supposed to get mine early next week, can’t wait!Got my new Custom Vudoo this week can’t even thank them enough this one is insane View attachment 7985467
I use Lucas synthetic gun oil and use the method that was shown in one of the Vudoo videos. Pull the bolt apart and clean, run one line of of oil down the firing pin/spring, add a wee drop of oil in the extractor/ejector pivot points and on the bolt nose lugs. Reassemble, and lube the outside of the bolt liberally. Install the bolt in the action and run it about ten times. Then I pull the bolt out and pull the bolt thur the web between my forefinger and thumb to remove the excess. Re-install and go shoot. I also apply some synthetic grease on the cocking ramp and the back of the bolt lugs. Runs great and had fella at a match tell me it was the smoothest running Vudoo actiion he had ever worked. He asked "What your secret?". I told him I lube the bolt like you are supposed to. Since I have the lecturn... Anyone know if there is tool to clean the bolt lug recesses in the action? I have Bore Tech action cleaning tool to do the deed in my CF rifles but haven't seen one for a rimfire. Worst case I stick with the nylon pick and patches but figured I'd ask.What’s the best option for lube and where should I be lubing? Just want to make sure I’m getting everything.
I use the Dewey cotton rolls and felt pad. It’s pretty snug getting the felt in there but works fine.I use Lucas synthetic gun oil and use the method that was shown in one of the Vudoo videos. Pull the bolt apart and clean, run one line of of oil down the firing pin/spring, add a wee drop of oil in the extractor/ejector pivot points and on the bolt nose lugs. Reassemble, and lube the outside of the bolt liberally. Install the bolt in the action and run it about ten time. Then I pull the bolt out and pull the bolt thur the web between my forefinger and thumb to remove the excess. Re-install and go shoot. I also apply some synthetic grease on the cocking ramp and the back of the bolt lugs. Runs great and had fella at a match tell me it was the smoothest running Vudoo actiion he had ever worked. He asked "What your secret?". I told him I lube the bolt like you are supposed to. Since I have the lecturn... Anyone know if there is tool to clean the bolt lug recesses in the action? I have Bore Tech action cleaning tool to do the deed in my CF rifles but haven't seen one for a rimfire. Worst case I stick with the nylon pick and patches but figured I'd ask.
I need to give those a whirl. As a stop gap a .308 chamber mop worked pretty well. Fed it in until I felt the bigger part pop into the bolt lug recess and started twisting (being mindful not to hit the chamber face). Got a goodly amount of crud out!I use the Dewey cotton rolls and felt pad. It’s pretty snug getting the felt in there but works fine.
You'll have just under1 1/8" for that, and 2 1/4" the the other way.Hey guys, need a dimension if some one can help? Boss man bought me a Vudoo 360 apparition in a MPA BA comp chassis as a gift for my 15 years with the company (I know right?!?) and wants to have the company logo laser etched into the chassis. I have a friend that can do the work but I am trying to figure out how much space I have. does anyone know what this dimension might be?
View attachment 7989536
Worst case I wait until the rifle lands but if I can get it scaled we can do a test run on some scrap steel and make sure everything is GTG when the rifle lands. Thank you in advance! I know the Vudoo crew can help me out!
P.S. arrows suck but you get the idea
Is your company hiring?Hey guys, need a dimension if some one can help? Boss man bought me a Vudoo 360 apparition in a MPA BA comp chassis as a gift for my 15 years with the company (I know right?!?) and wants to have the company logo laser etched into the chassis. I have a friend that can do the work but I am trying to figure out how much space I have. does anyone know what this dimension might be?
View attachment 7989536
Worst case I wait until the rifle lands but if I can get it scaled we can do a test run on some scrap steel and make sure everything is GTG when the rifle lands. Thank you in advance! I know the Vudoo crew can help me out!
P.S. arrows suck but you get the idea
Actually, yes! Needing a manual machinist in a bad way!Is your company hiring?
That is awesome! Thank you @Cowpokey Sounds like I need to scale it to 1".
1" should do the trick, my measurement was kept on the flat just before the bevels.That is awesome! Thank you @Cowpokey Sounds like I need to scale it to 1".
Man, a lot of people do.. They are hard to find.. I have an 83 year that still works off a ships lathe that I have no idea what I will do when he decides he has enough..I do know I still get giddy as hell when he tells me to order a can of liquid nitrogen! He can move like a 18 year when he has too!Actually, yes! Needing a manual machinist in a bad way!
I am a diesel mechanic these days but can fix anything. I have thought about going to school to really learn how to run manual lathes, mills, etc. and blacksmithing. I just need the time… One of my grandfathers was a hell of a machinist. He used to work at a textile mill in Tennessee that used very old textile machines from Europe, when they would break or wear out a part he would make a new one. Building engines for the last 25 years I have come to know some very good and very bad machinist, it is a profession I highly respect. Plus it would go a long way to facilitate my gun & Jeep habits.Actually, yes! Needing a manual machinist in a bad way!
It's an interesting profession and I have the scars to prove it! Done everything from a simple roller for a belt sander (for a knife maker) to F-22 and space shuttle parts to "I could tell you but I would have to kill you!" projects. Seriously, I have stories from chatting with dudes from Los Alamos that are a hoot but not for the internet. Here's a picture of a fun project that I was sure was going to be my last. 5" ID x 8" O.D. tube x about 54 foot long car crusher ram (and it was all 2 forklifts wanted) that was held in the chuck with an expanding mandrel and $0.18 worth of nylon bearing material! Had to pull a 26 x 160 lathe out at a 45 degree angle to the wall and line up a 18" x 84" lathe to hold a second steady rest. Good times and I miss it!I am a diesel mechanic these days but can fix anything. I have thought about going to school to really learn how to run manual lathes, mills, etc. and blacksmithing. I just need the time… One of my grandfathers was a hell of a machinist. He used to work at a textile mill in Tennessee that used very old textile machines from Europe, when they would break or wear out a part he would make a new one. Building engines for the last 25 years I have come to know some very good and very bad machinist, it is a profession I highly respect. Plus it would go a long way to facilitate my gun & Jeep habits.
A = Ace blankWhat does the A or B stamp on the bottom of the barrel just in front of the recoil lug signify?
Thanks
Our big one has an old tractor seat connected to the tail stock so you can sit on it and ride with it up and down the shaft. Mostly used on Merck shafts that are made from Hastelloy. Even made out of that, that environment will honeycomb those in a year and a half..316 will only last 2-3 months.. makes you wonder what is in all these medicines we take..It's an interesting profession and I have the scars to prove it! Done everything from a simple roller for a belt sander (for a knife maker) to F-22 and space shuttle parts to "I could tell you but I would have to kill you!" projects. Seriously, I have stories from chatting with dudes from Los Alamos that are a hoot but not for the internet. Here's a picture of a fun project that I was sure was going to be my last. 5" ID x 8" O.D. tube x about 54 foot long car crusher ram (and it was all 2 forklifts wanted) that was held in the chuck with an expanding mandrel and $0.18 worth of nylon bearing material! Had to pull a 26 x 160 lathe out at a 45 degree angle to the wall and line up a 18" x 84" lathe to hold a second steady rest. Good times and I miss it!
View attachment 7989963
Thanks, I never specified a barrel manufacturer when I bought it just over a year ago. I just assumed it had an Ace barrel. I checked and it has a B stamp. It's not a tack driver.A = Ace blank
B = Bartlein blank
I have owned a few of both and both were shooters. Make sure it's clean (no carbon ring) and test ammo.Thanks, I never specified a barrel manufacturer when I bought it just over a year ago. I just assumed it had an Ace barrel. I checked and it has a B stamp. It's not a tack driver.
Have you contacted Vudoo if you think there is an issue?Thanks, I never specified a barrel manufacturer when I bought it just over a year ago. I just assumed it had an Ace barrel. I checked and it has a B stamp. It's not a tack driver.
That could certaInly be a 125MM howitzer barrel!Jeez @nikonNUT , all I see is a gun barrel.
Big deal, company I work for just handed me this sweet oven mit with attached ice scraper thingy, just in time for winter. #ThoughtfulMuchBoss man bought me a Vudoo...
I need to buy a bore scope. I clean for carbon ring using C4, but I'm never sure if I've actually removed it as I'm plagued with random flyers. I have been lot testing, but never found anything that grouped well at 100 yds, the distant where I normally shoot. What is a common consistent group size at that distant that would cause people to refer to a rifle as being a "tack driver" or "hammer"? Less than 2 to 1-1/2 moa, 1 moa, 1/2 moa? Just asking as I'm curious.I have owned a few of both and both were shooters. Make sure it's clean (no carbon ring) and test ammo.
I haven't. I'm sure the problem is more likely the ammo, wind or me. Or a combination of any not in that order.Have you contacted Vudoo if you think there is an issue?
At 100 yards with vudoo 360 ,20 inch ace barrel Im getting 1 inch to 3/4 inch groups .I need to buy a bore scope. I clean for carbon ring using C4, but I'm never sure if I've actually removed it as I'm plagued with random flyers. I have been lot testing, but never found anything that grouped well at 100 yds, the distant where I normally shoot. What is a common consistent group size at that distant that would cause people to refer to a rifle as being a "tack driver" or "hammer"? Less than 2 to 1-1/2 moa, 1 moa, 1/2 moa? Just asking as I'm curious.
I haven't. I'm sure the problem is more likely the ammo, wind or me. Or a combination of any not in that order.
Weather and ammo play a huge part in groups at 100.I need to buy a bore scope. I clean for carbon ring using C4, but I'm never sure if I've actually removed it as I'm plagued with random flyers. I have been lot testing, but never found anything that grouped well at 100 yds, the distant where I normally shoot. What is a common consistent group size at that distant that would cause people to refer to a rifle as being a "tack driver" or "hammer"? Less than 2 to 1-1/2 moa, 1 moa, 1/2 moa? Just asking as I'm curious.
I haven't. I'm sure the problem is more likely the ammo, wind or me. Or a combination of any not in that order.
I really like it so far, FAT BOY tripod, I was choosing between this and the 2 vets, but this one out for several better options, I got their new proprietary arca ball head which is really nice. Plus I got a great discount on it so. Solid, easy to operate and adjust, not too heavy and can handle up to 100 lbs, it’s a beast. Well worth the money IMOThat is a sweet setup what is your opinion on the tripod and ballhead your using.
how much of a discount are we talking about here?I really like it so far, FAT BOY tripod, I was choosing between this and the 2 vets, but this one out for several better options, I got their new proprietary arca ball head which is really nice. Plus I got a great discount on it so. Solid, easy to operate and adjust, not too heavy and can handle up to 100 lbs, it’s a beast. Well worth the money IMO
20%, might not seem like a lot but it ads up fasthow much of a discount are we talking about here?
It's on my short list