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Want a SUB MOA AR15, build or buy?

Coyotejunki

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 18, 2004
38
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St. Louis, MO
I have assembled several AR15's but used bargain basement parts. All seem to work OK, But I want a reasonably lightweight AR for hunting coyotes and such. I would be happy with a true .75 MOA rifle, with my reloads. I already have several complete lowers, so I'm thinking a nice upper would suffice. I have thought about just buying a Daniel Defence or other complete rifle, but kind of want to build. I will not be using this rifle for combat or life threatening events. Mostly hunting, poking holes in paper, and banging steel. :)

What do you all suggest? Trying to stay with a 223 Wilde chamber

Benn looking at Odin, CLE, and other barrels, but I really don't know much about them for AR's. I have some really nice Brux, Bartlien, Lilja barreled Bolt actions, but want a nice AR too.

Guess I am going to need to get caught up on all the terms like SPR, SBR, Recce, etc. I am just used to the old M16A1 at MCRD I was issued 40 years ago. LOL
 
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I would suggest that you build it, especially since you already done several.

What you get is mainly a matter of $$$$$...............Bartlien barrel from CLE, Craddock or WOA, in my opinion, are the cream. But they all have other good blanks as well.

Where you get it from, to some degree, will determine what kind of contour, but all are pretty accommodating & all can do fairly light barrels in either 16 or 18" if you talk to them.

WOA makes a stock contour 3-gun barrel that is 18" & weighs 30.6 oz on their stock Wilson blanks that is a great bang for the buck at about $285.

If it's not a SD, gun, look at SanTan's upper w/o the FA; it's stiff & usually needs a slight thermal fit so it's tight enough to not have to glue in the barrel; if you want a tighter thermal fit, then get a BCM upper. They are very concentric, tight fit & light...............blems are usually available.

Get a fitted bolt from whoever you buy the barrel from, a JP or Young Mfg. bolt carrier, & then hang on whatever you want for the rest of the parts as the above are the really important ones.

JMHO, YMMV

MM
 
I would build as well. I say this with the caveat that I am never concerned with the resale value of my firearms because in my 30-some years of owning them, I have only sold one. I buy rifles I plan to keep. Quality factory rifles will hold value. Parts rifles are like restoring a car, just because you spent X dollars to fix it up, doesn't mean you will get all that money back if/when you sell.

With that being said, Ar-15's are stupid easy to build with minimal tools. You can make a very accurate and reliable gun on your own. As said above, get a quality thermal fit upper (i also like BCM and their blem's are a good deal. There is a silly amount of quality barrels out there depending on budget, I would recommend getting a headspaced bolt with it. I like SLR handguards on mine. They aren't cheap, but I've got 4 now and it's all I buy on my new small and large frame builds. They have been solid for me.

Another benefit to building is you can essentially have the finished rifle on "layaway" if you don't want to spend all that money up front. I just buy parts month to month until I have everything, much easier on the wallet than dropping $2-4k all at once for us poors.

Also I just enjoy putting them together, and getting to hand pick every part so it's EXACTLY the rifle I want.
 
Barnes precision machine, can’t begin to try and explain how accurate this thing is, and can’t wait for my xtr iii to get here and have this go back to a mk12 style build.
 

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High end barrel and your good to go. Doesn't matter if you build or buy then. Larue has been pumping out some very accurate ARs lately. Check their insta. Many other options.

Criterion barrels are nice. I'm sure all the mentions above are accurate too.
 
Rock River Arms has a number of AR’s with a .75” MOA specification…not sure if that’s a “returnable” guarantee or not.

They can come with a two-stage RRA trigger that’s pretty darn nice! And I have Bix ‘n Andy TacSport pros in my bolt guns.

Look for the .223 Wylde chambered RRA’s. Maybe not all of the Wylde ones have that .75” MOA specification, but here’s a few:



 
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I should also add that if you want an off-the-shelf barrel besides the WOA 3-gun, that is usually available, you won't go wrong with a Ranier Ultra Match..................I have 2 & they are both sun-moa, easily.

MM
 
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Well I picked up a PSA 18" rifle length upper to play around with. So far it is shooting Hornady 75 HPBTs under MOA out to 300yds. I did find a load for my 16" Faxon pencil barrel, with 50 NBT's and 60 VMAX bullets. I can get generally 1 MOA, sometimes 3/4 MOA. THink I will learn more and shoot these for now, then step up to a nicer rifle or build, maybe buy a used on in the future.
 
I would opine that your budget would be the most significant deciding factor. If you've got JP money, buy a JP. If you don't, get a decent receiver set, good barrel, trigger, etc...and build it to suit.

I would also like to include Seekins as a factory option for a rather accurate, "off-the-shelf" rifle. Seekins makes a bitchin', all around quality rifle that will perform well and shoot accurately for a very reasonable price. Plus, the owner dude is fucking awesome too.
 
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I’m not an AR guy really. But from what I own or have owned it be WOA for accuracy. Daniel Defense for chrome line and accuracy. FN for chrome line and slightly less accuracy than the DD

Factory for hunting would be DDM4V7 or DDM4V11. I used to own the V11 and it was a great rifle
 
for sub moa? BCM is legendary for not being on the accurate side and the two I had couldn't hit a water if fell out of a boat. They were pushing 2moa with premium ammo. Hell, if you're going rack grade, free float a colt socom barrel and be done

OP, best bet is to build one imho
Everyone of my barrels I've had. Have been sub moa. And that's 4 out of all my AR's I have. Just giving my personal opinion on what I have gotten from BCM.
 
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WOA barrels shoot, proof barrels shoot, Criterion barrels shoot, Rainer barrels shoot, RRA barrels shoot, for cheap options.
 
Both of my Proof barrels (with me probably being the limiting factor) are capable of .5-75 depending on ammo.

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This is factory Australia outback 69 smk.

Three .6 moa groups and one just under 1 moa. I'm far from the best shooter as well. Probably botched one of the shots on the 4th group. If you take out "shot 5" the 4 shot was .58 moa iirc.

Didn't let my barrel cool down as I should have as well.

I've shot .3 moa 5 shot groups with this but me as a shooter I'm probably closer to a consistent .55-.75 depending on ammo.

So I've been impressed with proof. I have a .223 wylde cf and 6.5cm in stainless. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another.
 
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16" Faxon pencil barrel. I call her the Nasty Lil Bit**
All painted now.
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#1-4 are with this rifle, the rest is with a 18" PSA upper I bought. Target #1 has been repeatable, I get the same groups with 50 NBT's and Benchmark, so I am Happy.

UOc1iVil.jpg


I'm sure that someone better could get better groups, but I will play with these two until I decide on what to build or buy. I looked at a DD today, but with all the suggestions I prolly build. So many barrel choices.
 
Well I picked up a PSA 18" rifle length upper to play around with. So far it is shooting Hornady 75 HPBTs under MOA out to 300yds. I did find a load for my 16" Faxon pencil barrel, with 50 NBT's and 60 VMAX bullets. I can get generally 1 MOA, sometimes 3/4 MOA. THink I will learn more and shoot these for now, then step up to a nicer rifle or build, maybe buy a used on in the future.
Congrats. The three PSA 18" uppers that I have seen, all shot sub MOA.
 
OK, I still have the bug, and want a nicer consistent shooter. Guess I can look for/at the barrels mentioned above including CLE.
 
The bug is real. Once it gets hold, it seldom lets go. I think I'll try a LaRue next.

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