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Want to get a 40x

R.O.U.S.

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 26, 2011
361
44
WA
Recently I’ve gotten bored with my Larue OBR. 308 ammunition is more expensive than ever, and the only ranges I am able to go to are limited to 100 yards.

I really want to get out more and shoot, and I think 22lr is the way to go. This time I want to get something classic, and keep forever. I am strongly considering selling my 308 for a .22lr Remington 40x. I can’t seem to navigate the search bar as 40x is too short as a search query.

There are a lot of them out there in various condition and configurations, and I have a lot questions I was hoping that people could help me answer.

Are US marked rifles valued differently than normal civilian rifles? I know that USMC marked rifles are based on a different Remington model.

How does having a bolt serial that does not match receiver affect value such as a mismatched bolt or aftermarket bolt?

Does date of manufacture matter? Is something from the 50’s more desirable than a more recent production rifle?

I don’t intend to make a tactical trainer, although I would like to put a scope on it if possible. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Put 40x in quotations like this: "40x" or use the new search engine, you can find that in the site information sub-forum. Matched serial bolts and rifles are more desirable and have asked higher prices. From my limited understanding the USMC ones have a different barrel contour, varmint I believe, compared to the heavier bull barrel non-USMC. There is also the 40xb. The 40xb has an exact 700 footprint, whereas the 40x is based off a slightly different remington model, I believe the 722, and may require some (usually minor) modifications of parts for compatibility. SDWhirlwind knows a lot about the 40x(b) and was extremely helpful to me when I was building my 40xb.
 

Wow, that is great example. Thank you for the link! Unfortunately, I have to sell my 308 before I can buy.

Put 40x in quotations like this: "40x" or use the new search engine, you can find that in the site information sub-forum. Matched serial bolts and rifles are more desirable and have asked higher prices. From my limited understanding the USMC ones have a different barrel contour, varmint I believe, compared to the heavier bull barrel non-USMC. There is also the 40xb. The 40xb has an exact 700 footprint, whereas the 40x is based off a slightly different remington model, I believe the 722, and may require some (usually minor) modifications of parts for compatibility. SDWhirlwind knows a lot about the 40x(b) and was extremely helpful to me when I was building my 40xb.

Thanks for the search tip. I used to use the google search bar option a long time ago, but I can't find it now. I'll look it up in the sub forum that you mentioned.
 
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If you want a 40x I can help you out. Do a search of my post you will see that I sold one on here for 500 bucks just to prove a point. I have 12 left. I also have some custom Stillers. Send me a PM with a contact number.
 
Nesikabay, Have you ran across any 40x's that had the scope base holes out of line with the barrel?
 
I put a 1961 40x straight into a model 700 vls stock with 0 issues. the real difference between the 722 and the 700 is the rear tang on the receiver is a lot longer and there is a safety lever slot milled in on the 700. other than that it is about 95% interchangable. the bolt stop is different and the bolt itself is different.
 
You can get repeater conversions or stiller makes a repeater copy of it but both opinions cost
 
You can get repeater conversions or stiller makes a repeater copy of it but both opinions cost

Stiller does not Make the repeater. I am guessing you are talking about the 25x. [Unless I am wrong there were only 3 or 4 25x actions built. If you want a repeater I believe the best route to go is the 54 action. If the new Stiller repeater base off of the 52 ever gets into production. That could be a good one
 
40X's are cool...but there are better options available.

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I'd recommend something in a repeater. That is unless of course stationary prone/bench shooting is your only available/needed usage.

100% right. The 54 or a Sako a 52 or the list goes on
 
I had a great conversation with Nesika Bay, and he gave me a lot of information, and the same suggestions for alternative rifles.

I'm just a recreational shooter, and I wanted something really classic. There were other classic rifles to chose from, but something made me gravitate towards the 40x. The fact that it is a single-shot doesn't bother me, but I can understand why a repeater is an important feature for most. At a local range firing, cycling the bolt, and firing again is considered rapid fire, and will get you yelled at.
 
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The only negative thing about a 40X is the vertical locking lugs. The aftermarket actions based on the 40X have horizontal lugs. Forgot to mention I had a USMC 40X. It is based on the 722 action. The barrel is tapered.
 
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The only negative thing about a 40X is the vertical locking lugs. The aftermarket actions based on the 40X have horizontal lugs. Forgot to mention I had a USMC 40X. It is based on the 722 action. The barrel is tapered.

Please explain why the lugs on a 40x are a bad thing. The Stillers I have are the same lockup as a 40x
 
The range I am talking about is unique in that it is right behind the high school that I went to years back. Gunfire during the daytime was a normal occurrence. I can understand why they would have slow fire rules, but it makes going to that range less fun.

The only negative thing about a 40X is the vertical locking lugs. The aftermarket actions based on the 40X have horizontal lugs. Forgot to mention I had a USMC 40X. It is based on the 722 action. The barrel is tapered.

Please explain why the lugs on a 40x are a bad thing. The Stillers I have are the same lockup as a 40x

I am curious and would like to know as well.
 
I must admit I drink the Bill Calfee Koolaid. Bill says in his book (The Art of Rimfire Accuracy) that the 40x, with vertical lugs and the angled sear engagement area, causes only one lug to engage when the bolt is closed. Most good smiths can correct the lug issue. I suspect Stiller has long since figured out how to make both lugs engage.
 
I bought and received the 40x that WillAdams linked to earlier on. It's been a nightmare. I got into a bidding war with a guy who was buying all the other 40x rifles and lost perspective. I ignored the payment terms and ended up paying $500 in taxes and fees. I'm going to call that a lesson learned.

The rifle was not in as good condition that I thought it would be. The stock is beat up here and there. I'll post pictures of it tomorrow, and hopefully people can identify what I actually bought. There are some strange things about the rifle. The trigger shoe is so big that the trigger protector can't be removed. There is also no bolt release, and after using dummy rounds, the trigger pull can't be more than 2 ounces. It also looks like the stock was cut down for an adjustable butt pad. It is labeled M.H. Canjar Denver, Colorado. For some reason the front sight base won't accept a Redfield Olympic Globe front sight.
 
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Sounds like you have a Canjar set trigger. They're no longer made. I have one on a 700. The trigger shoe on those things are very wide. Mine had the feature where if you pulled forward on the trigger, a little center section, similar to a Savage Accu-Trigger or Glock trigger would pop out. That gave you a two ounce trigger pull. If you didn't pull forward on the trigger, you had an adjustable, normal weight trigger. I ended up removing the center set section and grinding the sides of trigger shoe down to a more normal thickness. Those triggers did not come with a bolt release.
 
I pulled forward on the trigger and the center section popped out. I brushed against it, and it fired. That is a scary light trigger. I thought the normal trigger pull was light, but this is just nuts.
 
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I pulled forward on the trigger and the center section popped out. I brushed against it, and it fired. That is a scary light trigger. I thought the normal trigger pull was light, but this is just nuts.

You can adjust the weight of the set shoe with one of the tiny screws on the side of it. Most of the standard Canjar triggers are only reliable down to 6 or 8 ounces, after that the sear engagement is not reliable. The Canjar Light Pull triggers can be set to around an ounce. I have the instructions from Canjar around here somewhere, if I can find them I will scan and post them. I also have some spare wood for 40-X's if you need a stock. I wouldn't worry about the bolt release, if you need to take the bolt out just push down on the back of the bolt stop with something.

I am curious why some people posted here there are better choices than a 40-X, I own a bunch of them as well as an Anschutz 1813, Feinwerkbau 2600, Walther KKM, and RWS 820. The only advantage some of those Euro rifles have over the 40-X is adjustability of the stock for shooting position matches. I prefer to shoot one of my heavy barrel 40-XB's in prone matches over the Euro stuff, I have been shooting the 1813 in position matches, but I may go back to shooting my Remington 37. They are all equally accurate once you find a batch of ammo they like. If the 40-X or 40-XB were inferior actions guys like Gene Davis, Butch Hongisto, Calfee, and Meyers wouldn't have been able build competitive bench guns on them. A huge advantage the 40-X has is the availability of parts and aftermarket options.
 
168BTHPM, I put a Canjar trigger in my 40X, that I bought new in 1973, back in the late 80's. There are 2 tiny screws on the side of it that will adjust the weight of the set shoe as you stated. I am missing one of the screws but the set shoe still works fine. I would like another screw in case I lose the one I have on the basement floor like I did the other. I've written Harts in PA but they couldn't help. Do you have any idea where I could buy two of these set screws? Thanks for your help.
 
You can adjust the weight of the set shoe with one of the tiny screws on the side of it. Most of the standard Canjar triggers are only reliable down to 6 or 8 ounces, after that the sear engagement is not reliable. The Canjar Light Pull triggers can be set to around an ounce. I have the instructions from Canjar around here somewhere, if I can find them I will scan and post them. I also have some spare wood for 40-X's if you need a stock. I wouldn't worry about the bolt release, if you need to take the bolt out just push down on the back of the bolt stop with something.

I am curious why some people posted here there are better choices than a 40-X, I own a bunch of them as well as an Anschutz 1813, Feinwerkbau 2600, Walther KKM, and RWS 820. The only advantage some of those Euro rifles have over the 40-X is adjustability of the stock for shooting position matches. I prefer to shoot one of my heavy barrel 40-XB's in prone matches over the Euro stuff, I have been shooting the 1813 in position matches, but I may go back to shooting my Remington 37. They are all equally accurate once you find a batch of ammo they like. If the 40-X or 40-XB were inferior actions guys like Gene Davis, Butch Hongisto, Calfee, and Meyers wouldn't have been able build competitive bench guns on them. A huge advantage the 40-X has is the availability of parts and aftermarket options.

I was testing the safety and discovered some things. Putting the safety on, pulling the trigger, then putting the safety on fire discharges the rifle. I also can't put the safety in the third position (locked and safe) while the rifle is not cocked. I appreciate the offer for the wood stock, but I don't think I am keeping this rifle. I am getting too many bad vibes.

Does anyone know what front sight base is on this rifle? The Redfield Olympic Globe sight doesn't fit.

It seems like the previous owner used the rifle on a wooden front rest from a range.










 
I was testing the safety and discovered some things. Putting the safety on, pulling the trigger, then putting the safety on fire discharges the rifle. I also can't put the safety in the third position (locked and safe) while the rifle is not cocked. I appreciate the offer for the wood stock, but I don't think I am keeping this rifle. I am getting too many bad vibes.

Does anyone know what front sight base is on this rifle? The Redfield Olympic Globe sight doesn't fit.

It seems like the previous owner used the rifle on a wooden front rest from a range.

The front sight base is a two step Redfield, tall step for 50 yards, low step for 100 yards. It was designed to make it easier when moving from 50 yards to 100 yards during matches.

The problems you are describing for the trigger/safety sound like sear engagment and can be fixed in about 5 minutes.

Also sent you a PM.
 
With a little CLP, and a rag I was able to get the bolt to look much better.



I believe I found instructions for the Canjar trigger here.

Canjar trigger

I adjusted the trigger pull heavier, but it looks like I have to drift a pin to be able to to get to the sear engagement screw. Does anyone have a recommendation for small drift punches?

Even if I get this trigger up and running, I still want a 40x trigger on hand. I was looking at Numrich Gun Parts, and found they have a 40XB Sporter trigger, and a 40XC trigger. Does anyone know the difference between them or know which one is more desirable?
 
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If you want a 40x I can help you out. Do a search of my post you will see that I sold one on here for 500 bucks just to prove a point. I have 12 left. I also have some custom Stillers. Send me a PM with a contact number.

I am seriously looking for this same rifle. If you're interested in selling me one, please let me know. Thank you.
 
It looks like you have a 40XB.


Just get a timney 510 and be done with it if you really want a different
Trigger.
 
If you want a 40x I can help you out. Do a search of my post you will see that I sold one on here for 500 bucks just to prove a point. I have 12 left. I also have some custom Stillers. Send me a PM with a contact number.
Any idea where I can find a metal adjustable butt plate that was original on my 40-X? It has M.H. Canjar Denver, Colo. stamped on it along with the rifle serial number. Thanks.
IMG_20240206_144907345.jpg
 
Herb ,
First holy resurrection, lol , it took me years to find one that a guy was selling , your doing the correct thing by asking if anyone knows where to find one one maybe somebody can help ya out , good luck , and ask on multiple forums RFC , accurate shooter etc etc , these parts are out there just got to find them
 
Herb ,
First holy resurrection, lol , it took me years to find one that a guy was selling , your doing the correct thing by asking if anyone knows where to find one one maybe somebody can help ya out , good luck , and ask on multiple forums RFC , accurate shooter etc etc , these parts are out there just got to find them
Thanks for your input. The search continues.....