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Want to start reloading. what do I need?

taseal

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 18, 2011
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I'm asking for a no bs breakdown of the stuff I need. just the machines/parts to do it. I'm aware I need the bullet, primer, casing, and gunpowder.

I want to reload .30-06. would def be nice to reload for my 9mm and .45 as well (and my 5.56)

my budget is around 400-500 bucks.

any help?

Lots of information here, and it gets hard to disect. would be awesome if someone sold a good starter kit.
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

The reason for no replies is this has been covered extensively. Please search a little more. In short:

Press
Dies
Scale
Caliper
Manual(s)
Bullet puller
Tumbler
Priming tool (your press may do this)
Powder funnel
Loading block
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

Get a single stage press and a set of dies in .30-06 since that was the first caliber you mentioned. The Hornady LockNLoad set at Midway is $320 to $330 plus $35 for a die set and shell holder. Add a Hornady case trimmer for $61. Frankford Arsenal tumbler and seperator kit for $64. Add a good reloading manuals about $35. That's about $500 and gives you everything you need to prep cases and load one caliber. To add .223/5.56 you will need to buy another set of dies and a shell, about $35.

When you start adding pistol in the mix you'll find out that you can load pistol on a single stage but it gets really old, fast, because it is tedious and repetitive. When that happens add a progressive press, another $350.

Then you can figure out if you can reload rifle ammo on your progressive. I haven't done the math on these prices but if you reload all your ammo using the brass you have you'll pay off a press and components in a year or two, you'll spend about an hour a month loading maybe two if you have a permanent place to set up. You'll get better quality ammo and probably shoot more because you'll have ammo on hand.
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

PS. I picked Hornady to look up tonight and thought they had a good starter kit with their press. Their set comes with a Hornady manual. Good manual, but you'll probably add a second manual for a different brand of bullet or Lyman because they have multiple brands of bullets. Pretty much $500 to start and $850 if you add a progressive. Different brands will come up different, Lee is less expensive but their accesories aren't as good. RCBS has gone up in price, but is good equipment. Redding is really good equipment but higher price.
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: himaster</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Handloading for Competition by Glenn Zediker.

Read it...then ask questions. </div></div>

Great book, but waaaay beyond the scope of someone just getting into the hobby. I recommended it to a friend that was just starting out, only because people here said its good. He bought it, began to read it, then gave it to me. Advanced stuff aimed at those already familiar with reloading, looking to take it up a notch or three.
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: taseal</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm asking for a no bs breakdown of the stuff I need. just the machines/parts to do it. I'm aware I need the bullet, primer, casing, and gunpowder.

I want to reload .30-06. would def be nice to reload for my 9mm and .45 as well (and my 5.56)

my budget is around 400-500 bucks.

any help?

Lots of information here, and it gets hard to disect. would be awesome if someone sold a good starter kit. </div></div>

Taseal,

Is this for an autoloading or bolt 30-06? I also have to ask you if you are looking to simply save some money or are you looking to improve your consistency? You can do both but you can save some money by spending more up front for a progressive press.

I've used both single stage and progressive presses and found that to load for pistol calibers a progressive press is the way to go to prevent mental breakdown. I also found out along the way that progressive presses are the bomb for loading rifle cartridges if you are a long range precision shooter. It sounds wrong but it works pretty well. I'm using a vintage Dillion updated to current RL550B specs but tossed the powder measure for rifle loads because it is not good enough to meter out powder for this kind of work.

Anyway a Dillion 550 has a 4 position removable tool head which in the first position I have a Redding Competition Bushing Die, in the second position (in place of the powder measure) I have a Redding Type S Match FL Bushing Die, in the third position I have a Redding Instant Comparator and in the fourth and last position I have a Redding Competition Bullet Seater. This setup lets me set and confirm my case shoulder height and confirm bullet ogive seating heights without having to change dies as in a single position press. I don't need another press on the bench but an extra single press could be useful for the instant comparator allowing you to drop powder into the case while in the press but this is not a problem given my workflow.

It's also worth considering going to an electronic powder dispenser for the time savings and consistency that you simply cannot match by throwing powder or scaling it on a good beam scale like an RCBS 10/10. I bought a Hornady dispenser because I wanted no bells and whistles I just want a repeatable consistent scale. Yes the electronic dispensers cost more but the time saved is huge (70% minimum reduction in time to dump for typical .308Win powder weight!) compared to the option of hand scaling on a good beam scale.

Hope this helps!



 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

Whats needed is LOTS OF MONEY
laugh.gif
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

For 500 bucks the things you would be buying would be half-rate and you'd probably want to replace them one day. So why pay twice for something? Buy the best right off.

For single stage reloading (highly recommended) $1,000 should get you there. If you want to go cheap, here's what you could do:

You need to:
decap
tumble
uniform flash hole
deburr flash hole
resize
trim
prime
throw powder
weigh powder
seat bullets

You can figure out the cheapest way to do each.

HOpe I didn't leave anything out.
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: winxp_man</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Whats needed is LOTS OF MONEY
laugh.gif
</div></div>

+1
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jerry M</div><div class="ubbcode-body">#1 A reloading manual;
#2 Maybe another reloading manual.

Read than proceed.

Good luck

Jerry </div></div>

+1

Read them both twice and then think about buying equipment.
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

So first let me say I have manuals, however, I rarely use them when you can find all and ussually more up to date info on the net! I do recommend alot of reading before starting or even buying equipment. Then alot of research on what equipment you buy and be sure to read reviews of equipment (will save you alot of hassle in the end), however, just remember that everybody (no matter how good or highly recommended) has the possibility for producing a bad product from time to time. Really if you buy good stuff the first time you will probably be set for quite some time. I'd stick with Hornady, RCBS, etc for quality parts. I run alot of RCBS stuff, but I like Hornady new gen dies for a 2 die set. If you plan on shooting the same brass for awhile, then I would recommend a bushing neck sizer to save stress/wear on your cases.

The above list is going to get you going. You can reload on a single stage press for the 9mm, but it would serve you better (later after you have some experience and know that you will continue to reload) to buy a progressive press for the pistol. I have a dillon press for 40 and really like it. I also have a super 1050 progressive for 223. I use a single stage for 308 and all other rifle rounds that I load for (RCBS partner press, yes it's little, but it works fine and has for some time). I only own 40cal pistols, so the progressive is perfect for me. I use a RCBS uniflow powder measurer and it's worked just fine ever since I got it. I also use a RCBS chargemaster 750 scale, which has also functioned perfectly since I got it.

There are other products out there (some cost more and some cost less), but these work for what I do and they produce exceptional accuracy for me. My 308 is sub moa and it was built by me. All my 40 and 223 rounds go bang everytime.

If you are going to reload rifle ammo for accuracy then I would highly suggest that you spend some of your money on brass prep tools, such as flash hole, primer pocket, and case neck tools. A resizer would also be an important tool. I think most of your accuracy comes from preperation and load work to fit your particular rifle.

Now if your reloading for simply target/hunting where only minute of deer (or substitue whatever you are hunting) is needed, then you can slack alittle on your case prep and such for accuracy purposes
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

RCBS partner press or rock chucker.

frankford arsenal digital caliper

RCBS uniflow

can prime on the press. but i like the RCBS hand priming tool.

case trimmer i use a foreter but want to get a redding.

thats some of the stuff i use. for pistol loading i highly recommend a dillon square deal B. or just get a dillon 650 and be done with it all.

also i used regular RCBS dies and get fine ammo.
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

Most reloading manuals that I own and have read through, have a detailed section for teaching you how to reload. The easiest way to figure out what is needed is to buy a book. You need it anyway to figure out a starting point on your loads. But once you understand the process, you will know what you need. I buy lyman equipment. RCBS is like a mac computer. You pay twice as much, and the internals are the exact same.
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

I wrote this 2 years ago about how to start reloading 308:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am thinking that the cheapest is the way to start.
Many people do not take to reloading.
1) Skip cleaning the brass use the brass you found lying around.
2) Lube the outside of the case with Redding Imperial die wax.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=519525
$7.79
3) Put the sizer die in the press and screw the press to your work bench.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=807734
$27.99
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=738184
$13.49
4) Take the decapping stem out of the sizer die.
5) Put a shell holder in the press:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=616684
$3.49
6) Put the case in the shell holder in the press and push down on the press handle until the brass goes all the way into the die. Pull up on the handle until the brass comes out.
7) Spin the decapping stem in a drill while you grind off enough of the expander ball, until the expander ball will fit in the sized case mouth without touching.
8) Put the decapping stem back in the die and size the die again so the spent primer pops out.
9)Put the primer in the priming tool:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=556149
$14.99
WOLF LARGE PISTOL PRIMERS - per 1000 in stock at Powder Valley $25.50
put the case in the shell holder.
Put the shell holder in the priming tool.
Put the priming tool in the press.
Seat the primer.
10) Weigh out 40 gr IMR4895 powder
IMR 4895 - 1 LB. in stock at Powder Valley
$19.00
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=712103
$21.99
11) Pour the powder into the case
12) Seat a bullet into the case until the cartridge length is 2.81"
Sierra .308 168 gr. HPBT Match (100)in stock at Powder valley
$27.92
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=128288
$25.99
13) Put the loaded cartridge in a plastic baggie with a post it with these words written, ".308, 2.81", 40 gr IMR4895, Sierra 168 gr HPBT"
14) Go to the range and shoot groups.
15) Return from the range and write up an email range report listing the date, the rifle, the scope, the wind, the rest, the group size, and the load data on the post it.
16) Print the range report and staple it to the targets.
17) File it under "range reports"

I am adding up that it cost you $162.65</div></div>

I wrote this 4 or 5 years ago about all the reloading stuff I have bought and do not use:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I got the RCBS rockchucker reloading kit when I started reloading in 1999:
1) Rockchucker press .. don't use it anymore, I now use Forster and Bonanza Co-ax presses with shellholer jaw housing I redesigned and made on my mill, and an RCBS Partner press.
2) "Speer 12" reloading manual... loads in it are a joke, I find my start load with Quickload software.
3) Bottle of glycerin for lube... don't use it any more, now use Redding imperial die wax.
4) Pad for applying glycerin... don't use it, I use my fingers.
5) Brush for lubing inside of case neck.. don't use it any more, I remove the expander ball so I don't need inside lube.
6) Loading tray made of plastic... don't use it. I seat bullets as soon as I charge the case, with a second press.
7) Wire brush for cleaning primer pockets. Don't use it.
8) 5-0-5 scale [Ohaus OEM]... I still use it.
9) Uniflow powder measure.... I still use it.
10) Inside outside neck chamfer [ Wilson OEM] I still use it.
11) case trimmer, don't use it anymore. I now use a Forster case trimmer or RCBS 3 way in the vertical mill
12) Funnel, don't use it, I use a Frankfort Arsenal or MTM funnel.

Other stuff I use not cross referenced to the kit:
1) Wilson Case gauge
2) Sinclair concentricity gauge
3) Lyman Moly coating kit, but with steel BBs and magnetic separation
4) Vibrators, ultra sound, and stainless steel media in a tumbler for cleaning
5) Forster and Lee priming tools
6) Lee Collet neck dies polished in my lathe.
7) Forster FL dies with necks honed out in Forster's Hardinge lathes.
8) Forster seating dies with seater stem polished on my lathe
9) Dial calipers
10) Enco set of pin gauges .0610" to .2500"
11) Enco set of pin gauges .2510" - .5000"
12) Optivisor magnifier headset
13) Dillon Super Swage 600 military crimp remover
14) Lux lamp magnifier
15) Bullets, brass, primers, and powder
16) Berry's bullets plastic ammo boxes
17) 3M Post-its for labeling.
18) Forster headspace go-gauge</div></div>
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

I got started by visiting a friend who was an accomplished handloader during several of his reloading sessions. Seeing and doing beats reading and Internet discussion.

My mentor guided me to my purchase of a used Dillon RL550B press and basic setup from another handloader who was upgrading to the 650.

As such, I may be the only handloader I know who still uses their initially purchased equipment after some decades, and who has no motivation to 'upgrade'.

Is it 'perfect'? Probably not, but what accomodations I need to make are easily accomplished, and the ammo works really well, which I believe is the only real answer to any real questions on the subject.

So the 'buy once, cry once' strategy seems to have been successful in my instance. Others may vary.

After roughly two decades of handloading, my loading bench still contains mainly just simple and basic implements.

Dies are 2-die sets, F/L Resizer and Seater, no advanced features, like small base or neck bushings. I do not own a neck turner or primer pocket uniformer. I have a flash hole reamer which I use on all my new brass, and a tool for removing military primer crimps which I have not used in a couple of years.

My measuring tools consist of a dial caliper and a digital powder scale. I have an old Lyman case tumbler. Primer pickup tubes and a primer flip tray about finish things out.

In these decades, I have tried and endeavored to perfect most of the special handloading techniques. Individually, I think they all work. Collectively, I think they take up a lot of extra time and effort, and that the handloader has to make an individual determination about whether they are worth the effort.

In my own instance, I have decided to try and see if simply doing the basic steps, but doing them with diligent care, will also derive acceptable results. They serve my needs, which I try to keep within the realm of practical accuracy.

For me, practical accuracy means I develop a load down to about 1/2MOA of common accuracy, and then I stop flogging the horse. Live and relatively obedient horses are worth more to me than stellar performers which have died young under the lash.

I have a number of manuals, and they have been read repeatedly in their entirety. They are older now, and I supplement their chambering-specific data with a bunch of Internet research before I do any load fiddling. I reread all my manuals on the cartridge involved and gather whatever recent Internet data I can. I then make a plan and follow it through to testing on at least two separate occasions.

Takes time, and that may not suit some. I've tried it the other way, and always ended up with at least some small dissatisfaction. Taking unusable ammunition apart can constitute some part of said small dissatisfaction, although a casual oberserver may consider it larger. A casual observer may view an hour's worth (or more) of kneeling on the concrete garage floor and beating a plastic hammer against the paving (all the while frowning and muttering) as something outside the realm of a small dissatisfaction. I imagine most 65 year old guys have managed to bypass this exercise.

Such experiences bring home the adage 'haste makes waste'...

If I learn something, I try to pass it on here.

My method is only one of many. It is based on the view that advanced specialization has value, but I believe you can do most necessary things adequately by getting to know how to get the most out of your more basic tools. For me, it's less about what you use than about how you use it.

Greg
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

I'm putting my stuff together, thanks for all the replies!

as far as reading a book and then coming here to ask questions...

really dude? that was the best advice you can give?
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

I made a 'cheap' kit which cost me like 100 bucks. with the midway's discount, it'll be closer to 80 bucks...

probably another 50 bucks for the ammo stuff

then I made a 'better' kit for 300. I used RCBS scale, redding dies and couple other improvements.

the ammo stuff cost around 150 bucks.
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

You were told to read and understand a few loading manuals and then come and ask questions. He gave you that advice, good advice too I might add, to spare you the lecture you are about to receive.

You come to a reloading forum full to the gills of all kinds of information. You decide not to use a Sniper's Hide Google search but instead post a question that can be answered in the sticky's at the top of the page( and by any good loading manual). You get a case of the ass when you get some advice you don't like. You want to be spoon fed and you want to take shortcuts into an artform that many work years to perfect through careful study and hands on experience. Then when some have spoon fed you to your liking you post this:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I made a 'cheap' kit which cost me like 100 bucks. with the midway's discount, it'll be closer to 80 bucks...

probably another 50 bucks for the ammo stuff

then I made a 'better' kit for 300. I used RCBS scale, redding dies and couple other improvements.

the ammo stuff cost around 150 bucks.

</div></div>
The first thing you need to do is learn some correct loading terms and if you had read a book you would have learned that "components" are not "ammo stuff". Reloading is NOT plug-and-play without some study or a mentor or both. Making posts and getting advice are fine but you need to start with the basics first. You are a bit wet behind the ears in reloading to be critical of someone who gives you some good advice.
 
Re: Want to start reloading. what do I need?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TacticalJ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So first let me say I have manuals, however, I rarely use them when you can find all and usually more up to date info on the net! ....</div></div>

Seriously doubt it. Mostly you get overpressure load recommendations.

Good luck

Jerry