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Well, so no shit there I was drunk.

jpop8807

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Nov 16, 2022
    243
    177
    Pueblo, CO
    Soooo I got rather drunk Sunday night. I was looking to build an m16a4. For some reason, all completed uppers were pretty much sold out for many companies. Then I went to some site, and they had PRI mk12 upper 18in barrel, the black ones on sale marked down a few hundred. The FDE was still the same price, well, drunk me decided hey I never see these on sale, paypal powers unite. So it's on the way. I notice there are a lot of treads on uppers/optics/builds for mk12's. (Just to show I used the search function)

    My question is I don't have a lower, I told my gun smith what I bought he said the lower is nothing too special depending on what I want to do with it. I told him throw some stuff together. I do love the way the a2 stock looks on it though.

    He just messaged me You need a lower right? Any requests? I know what he means, I don't really care too much about being clone specific, is one lower better than another? He said a lot of the builds he does for people tend to be aero precision. Also he asked me if I want a single or two stage trigger? I'm new to the more dmr/long range stuff. So how much does that matter?

    Lastly, is there anything special I need for a mk12/spr build. Weren't they just a2 lowers, nothing to special about them? From what I researched. Also am I high or does the black hills 77grain mk262 go for more then some of my 308 match ammo?

    Being new to SPR/DMR rifles do I do the same thing I did with my 308(I'm really new to long range sorry to sound stupid), buy different stuff to see what the gun likes?

    Thank you for your patience, I will go lick some windows now.
     
    I'm laughing at your last sentence.

    Any quality lower. I kinda like DD lowers, although my clone is a lrg pin colt. There are many quality lowers, most of which are made by one or two foundries? The MK12 with correct barrel was bred for 77gr.
     
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    Soooo I got rather drunk Sunday night. I was looking to build an m16a4. For some reason, all completed uppers were pretty much sold out for many companies. Then I went to some site, and they had PRI mk12 upper 18in barrel, the black ones on sale marked down a few hundred. The FDE was still the same price, well, drunk me decided hey I never see these on sale, paypal powers unite. So it's on the way. I notice there are a lot of treads on uppers/optics/builds for mk12's. (Just to show I used the search function)

    My question is I don't have a lower, I told my gun smith what I bought he said the lower is nothing too special depending on what I want to do with it. I told him throw some stuff together. I do love the way the a2 stock looks on it though.

    He just messaged me You need a lower right? Any requests? I know what he means, I don't really care too much about being clone specific, is one lower better than another? He said a lot of the builds he does for people tend to be aero precision. Also he asked me if I want a single or two stage trigger? I'm new to the more dmr/long range stuff. So how much does that matter?

    Lastly, is there anything special I need for a mk12/spr build. Weren't they just a2 lowers, nothing to special about them? From what I researched. Also am I high or does the black hills 77grain mk262 go for more then some of my 308 match ammo?

    Being new to SPR/DMR rifles do I do the same thing I did with my 308(I'm really new to long range sorry to sound stupid), buy different stuff to see what the gun likes?

    Thank you for your patience, I will go lick some windows now.
    After licking windows, obtain 77smks, AA2520, lake city brass and remington 7-1/2 primers. Your charge will be somewhere between 24.5-25.3g (im right at 25 grains). That’s an exact clone of mk262 mod 1 at less than factory ammo prices and will group and fly just like it.

    An 18” bbl should give you beteeen 2700-2770 fps depending on final charge weight.

    Lowers: your call, but correct is Colt M16A4 and I believe Nodak Spud but it really doesn’t matter as long as it’s a decent quality forging/excrusion…i use an LMT defender for my mod 1

    Trigger: KAC two stage match or whichever you like (the KAC trigger was the issue trigger for those guns).
     
    i am relieved to find out this wasn't a "No shit, there I was drunk at the shooting range..." story. whew.

    I've been shooting the IMI 77gr bullets for my longer range AR, with good results, about a $1 per. maybe a little less if you shop around. I don't even dare to look at the BH Mk262.

    MHO, any quality mil-spec lower will do the job just fine. Aero AR-15 (Gen 2) is cost effective, although I wouldn't be surprised if a good Poverty Pony worked just as well.

    I like the 2-stage triggers, I use the Black-Friday-only G HS-NM, use them in my precision AR-15's and AR-10's.
     
    I'm laughing at your last sentence.

    Any quality lower. I kinda like DD lowers, although my clone is a lrg pin colt. There are many quality lowers, most of which are made by one or two foundries? The MK12 with correct barrel was bred for 77gr.
    The snozzberrries taste like snozzberries lol. Ya I haven't responded to him he said skies the limit depending on how much you want to pay. He said the majority of the guys going through his shop who don't do clone correct builds tend to go aeroprecision.

    I was worried I got the wrong barrel I went to look it up today and thought I ordered a 16 on accident. Turns out I got the 18. But the reason I don't think it's 100% Correct. The deal was on a black one with a 1/7 twist. The 1/8 twist black one was close to 2000 grand I believe. How much does that difference in twist rate make, wouldn't 1/7 be just as good as stabilizing the round?

    Here's the link.

     
    The snozzberrries taste like snozzberries lol. Ya I haven't responded to him he said skies the limit depending on how much you want to pay. He said the majority of the guys going through his shop who don't do clone correct builds tend to go aeroprecision.

    I was worried I got the wrong barrel I went to look it up today and thought I ordered a 16 on accident. Turns out I got the 18. But the reason I don't think it's 100% Correct. The deal was on a black one with a 1/7 twist. The 1/8 twist black one was close to 2000 grand I believe. How much does that difference in twist rate make, wouldn't 1/7 be just as good as stabilizing the round?

    Here's the link.

    1/7 is the correct twist rate and will stabilize any bullet you’re likely to use. 1/8 is a little slower but would also do the job just fine
     
    The snozzberrries taste like snozzberries lol. Ya I haven't responded to him he said skies the limit depending on how much you want to pay. He said the majority of the guys going through his shop who don't do clone correct builds tend to go aeroprecision.

    I was worried I got the wrong barrel I went to look it up today and thought I ordered a 16 on accident. Turns out I got the 18. But the reason I don't think it's 100% Correct. The deal was on a black one with a 1/7 twist. The 1/8 twist black one was close to 2000 grand I believe. How much does that difference in twist rate make, wouldn't 1/7 be just as good as stabilizing the round?

    Here's the link.

    Pression Reflex Industries was the original, contracted by Crane. I believe it's Bravo Co who also makes a good clone upper.
     
    1/7 is the correct twist rate and will stabilize any bullet you’re likely to use. 1/8 is a little slower but would also do the job just fine
    Mines a WOA. I will post twist in a bit.
     
    Pression Reflex Industries was the original, contracted by Crane. I believe it's Bravo Co who also makes a good clone upper.
    Bravo Co’s variant is ok but I believe they use a 1/8 and not sure if its a Douglas blank…ive used several SPR barrels from a variety of makers and the Douglas mk12 contract barrels are the best ive seen…PRI makes the best/most correct off the shelf urg that I know of for the mk12 family.
     
    After licking windows, obtain 77smks, AA2520, lake city brass and remington 7-1/2 primers. Your charge will be somewhere between 24.5-25.3g (im right at 25 grains). That’s an exact clone of mk262 mod 1 at less than factory ammo prices and will group and fly just like it.

    An 18” bbl should give you beteeen 2700-2770 fps depending on final charge weight.

    Lowers: your call, but correct is Colt M16A4 and I believe Nodak Spud but it really doesn’t matter as long as it’s a decent quality forging/excrusion…i use an LMT defender for my mod 1

    Trigger: KAC two stage match or whichever you like (the KAC trigger was the issue trigger for those guns).
    Jesus, man I was infantry I don't know how to do math. I usually compare weights to things I know women, and trucks and both being in the metric ton range. Lol. I guess I really need to get into reloading. I will save this post, and follow your advice once I get to the reloading part.

    Lower: sounds good, so just make sure it's quality. I'm going to look up that LMT

    Trigger: nice my thing is I'm not sure about the single stage vs 2 stage. He was trying to sell me something in his shop (trying to make money probably) He said he had a gieselle or however you spell it single stage laying around. Is there a reason one is better than the other?
     
    My occasional move is to do all the research first, pick out everything that I want and have open tabs with everything in the cart. Then wait until I get drunk enough to blow that much money. It’s worked once or twice. One of the reasons they all have GHSNM or GSSP triggers. Get a two stage trigger for this build either K or G depending upon how correct you want to go.
     
    i am relieved to find out this wasn't a "No shit, there I was drunk at the shooting range..." story. whew.

    I've been shooting the IMI 77gr bullets for my longer range AR, with good results, about a $1 per. maybe a little less if you shop around. I don't even dare to look at the BH Mk262.

    MHO, any quality mil-spec lower will do the job just fine. Aero AR-15 (Gen 2) is cost effective, although I wouldn't be surprised if a good Poverty Pony worked just as well.

    I like the 2-stage triggers, I use the Black-Friday-only G HS-NM, use them in my precision AR-15's and AR-10's.
    The aero lower is the one my smith suggested depending on my budge, he said he has never had issues with those.

    I'm not sure if I've ever shot a 2 stage, I have an FN military collectors m4, and my AK. If I'm correct a 2 stage is similar to most stryker fired pistols to some extend, a bit of creep feel the wall then bang.
     
    Bravo Co’s variant is ok but I believe they use a 1/8 and not sure if its a Douglas blank…ive used several SPR barrels from a variety of makers and the Douglas mk12 contract barrels are the best ive seen…PRI makes the best/most correct off the shelf urg that I know of for the mk12 family.
    Oh cool, ya it's in the mail already. Will hopefully be here soon. Yes I noticed when I was in the army and Lone Survivor came out everyone was on a build a mk12 binge. I've looked stuff up BCM seems to be out of stock of almost everything for the last few months, most sites including gunbroker charge out the ass for the PRI one. Then this one just popped up, and my makers mark told me it was a good idea.
     
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    My occasional move is to do all the research first, pick out everything that I want and have open tabs with everything in the cart. Then wait until I get drunk enough to blow that much money. It’s worked once or twice. One of the reasons they all have GHSNM or GSSP triggers. Get a two stage trigger for this build either K or G depending upon how correct you want to go.
    HOLY FUCK that was me the other night, I was like open tab for uppers m16a4, open tab gunbroker maybe I'll get lucky, open tab page 300 something snipers hide motivational thread, open tab gun reviews on youtube. Shit clicked on the wrong thing, what is PRI? Open tab google PRI, mk 12 builds, Open tab should I build a DRM, open tab I told my gf I wasn't buying anymore guns until I train more on what I have, Open tab am I lying if I only buy and upper it's technically not a gun, open tab pornhub probably won't get laid this weekend. That was my night lol.
     
    my opinion only, and it's only that, but in my mind, the single-stage is better for combat, and 3-gun type of competition.
    single stage is, you squeeze right now it goes bang.

    the 2-stage is in my mind better suited for precision shooting.
    you get on target, you squeeze lightly to take up the slack, verify your target/aim, and final squeeze, bang.

    although with training, practice, intimate familiarity with your gun, you could be equally proficient with a single-stage for precision shooting.
     
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    Jesus, man I was infantry I don't know how to do math. I usually compare weights to things I know women, and trucks and both being in the metric ton range. Lol. I guess I really need to get into reloading. I will save this post, and follow your advice once I get to the reloading part.

    Lower: sounds good, so just make sure it's quality. I'm going to look up that LMT

    Trigger: nice my thing is I'm not sure about the single stage vs 2 stage. He was trying to sell me something in his shop (trying to make money probably) He said he had a gieselle or however you spell it single stage laying around. Is there a reason one is better than the other?
    As long as you don’t load powder into your cartridge cases with heavy equipment you should be fine, haha.

    Single vs two stage boils down to personal preference. Geissele makes great single and two stage triggers as does Trigger Tech; LaRue’s MBT-2S is also a nice two-stage trigger for considerably less. I run a single stage Chip McCormick match triggers in all my ARs but I prefer single stage triggers for the AR platform (my sr25 is an exception to this general rule).
     
    The Mk12 is a squad DMR. Combat and pression at the squad level. DMR are 2 stage with a slightly heavier pull than a match 2 stage.
     
    Oh, I seriously believe my WOA barrel to be a 1/7 twist, although it may be 1/8. Mine is not clone correct but also a bit ''Reese'' rifle.
    My forearm is an RAS and covers the markings.
     
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    The aero lower is the one my smith suggested depending on my budge, he said he has never had issues with those.

    I'm not sure if I've ever shot a 2 stage, I have an FN military collectors m4, and my AK. If I'm correct a 2 stage is similar to most stryker fired pistols to some extend, a bit of creep feel the wall then bang.

    The Aero lowers are fine.

    As for the triggers, a GOOD 2-stage is not really like a mushy striker at all................the 1st stage is just clean take up to heavier pull, not mushy or creepy. The 2nd stage on a good trigger is glass rod break clean.

    MM
     
    From a purely function/ergonomic standpoint I like POF Gen4 and American Defense ADM4 lowers. Both are full ambidextrous with easy to manipulate bolt catch/release that's very intuitive. Either is very high quality and both feature ways to snug the lower against the upper. The ADM lowers have jumped about $50 in price this past year. I feel like the POF lower has a slightly higher build quality/finish but I'd use either without hesitation.

    Both are actually available. Good luck finding an LMT. The Mars-L would be the most similar to the above. Not quite as ergonomic as the POF or ADM. All three are about the same price for the stripped lower.

    I know POF is releasing a cool color at Shot Show, saw them at the factory last month.

    There's also VSeven if you're counting every last ounce but they're not full ambi.
     
    From a purely function/ergonomic standpoint I like POF Gen4 and American Defense ADM4 lowers. Both are full ambidextrous with easy to manipulate bolt catch/release that's very intuitive. Either is very high quality and both feature ways to snug the lower against the upper. The ADM lowers have jumped about $50 in price this past year. I feel like the POF lower has a slightly higher build quality/finish but I'd use either without hesitation.

    Both are actually available. Good luck finding an LMT. The Mars-L would be the most similar to the above. Not quite as ergonomic as the POF or ADM. All three are about the same price for the stripped lower.

    I know POF is releasing a cool color at Shot Show, saw them at the factory last month.

    There's also VSeven if you're counting every last ounce but they're not full ambi.
    If you have the cash, grab that POF lower. They're excellent. To make up for splurging on a full ambi lower, go over to LaRue Tactical & get an APEG Grip and MBT-2S trigger. You'll regret neither.
     
    Awesome thank you all for your advice. I will let you guys know as the build goes. Hey next question I looked up some of the build optic choices. I think I don't want to go more than 12x. I don't really care being period correct. Even though I notice most were 10x or 12x. I do like that range for the optic. I am currently looking on optics planet I notice most of the 10x seem to look like a LPVO with a small 24-28mm sight. The only ones I see that have a larger front glass with those zoom ranges (sorry for incorrect terminology) are US Optics FDN series, Meopta 3x12 56mm (never heard of that brand) nightforce shv 4-14x55(I don't mind the 14 but don't think I'll need it, the ones that caught my eye for the size of the glass are the trijicon credo cr1036 2-10x36mm, and a vortex pst ii 2-10x32. I'm open to whatever, all of these are 1st focal plane. I've never used second focal plane, I just see more people going 1st. For second there are way more options. Anyone have any experience or advice on these? Thank you for being patient I shall lick more windows until responses roll in.
     
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    Your guys ever notice that no good story ever started with someone eating a salad? 😂

    For the price, the ADM lowers are hard to beat because they are 100% ambi. I have no complaints about mine. The Geissele SSA or SSA-E are perfect triggers for an SPR. And as always said, some Sierra 77 gr SMK bullets with AA2520 will get you the MK262 clone loads. I prefer the carbine stocks over a rifle stock because some of the SPR barrels are under gassed and can short stroke with certain loads and work best with the carbine buffer. On mine, I have to use the Springco Yellow buffer spring, which is a reduced weight Spring.
     
    Lemme get this straight.

    You are paying someone to assemble an AR lower?


    My 10 yr old put one together with some guidance from her old dad.
    Stripped Lower and boxes with parts.
    Upper including FA and dust cover.
    Even set the torque wrench herself.
    In her words “Best arts and crafts day ever!!!”

    Best part? Easily getting right at .5” 5 shot groups at 100 with it.
    And easy banging steel to 500 (furthest I have tried with current 1-4 optic.
     
    Lemme get this straight.

    You are paying someone to assemble an AR lower?


    My 10 yr old put one together with some guidance from her old dad.
    Stripped Lower and boxes with parts.
    Upper including FA and dust cover.
    Even set the torque wrench herself.
    In her words “Best arts and crafts day ever!!!”

    Best part? Easily getting right at .5” 5 shot groups at 100 with it.
    And easy banging steel to 500 (furthest I have tried with current 1-4 optic.
    Well, she's been outshooting you since she was six and Billy Gibbons is her Godfather, so no, no surprises there :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
     
    Last edited:
    Lemme get this straight.

    You are paying someone to assemble an AR lower?


    My 10 yr old put one together with some guidance from her old dad.
    Stripped Lower and boxes with parts.
    Upper including FA and dust cover.
    Even set the torque wrench herself.
    In her words “Best arts and crafts day ever!!!”

    Best part? Easily getting right at .5” 5 shot groups at 100 with it.
    And easy banging steel to 500 (furthest I have tried with current 1-4 optic.
    Ya that included the drunk decisions. I found out I can't order a lower straight to my house. My FFL I use is 40 minutes away from me. So I just told him throw some shit together. He does good work, but then he hit me out of now where when he asked me what all I wanted. Initially I was just going to through it on my FN military collector lower. So laziness was definitely involved. Lol. I just told him if I have to make the drive anyways to pick up a lower he might as well put it together.
     
    Last edited:
    • Haha
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    Update pictures will follow at a later date.

    Got my lower back

    Aero x15 multi cal lower

    Rifle Length buffer and a2 stock

    I was undecided on my trigger (sorry new to all this I've never used anything other than milspec/what comes with the gun) So I ended up telling him to choose for me. He went with Timney Triggers DH3 Daniel Horner Signature Single-Stage Straight Trigger with 3 lbs Draw Weight & Anodized Finish

    Currently stock a2 grip which I don't mind might switch in the future

    PRI MARK 12 MOD 0 SPR (From the website)

    Caliber ..........................................................5.56/.223
    Upper Receiver ........................Forged T6 7075 Hard coat anodized aluminum
    Barrel.......18".........5.56 Douglas 416 stainless steel with M4 feed ramps 1-7 twist
    Gas Block...................Flip up front sight gas block with 2 cross bolts for securing
    Forearm....................................................Rifle length
    Rails............................all rails plus SPR PEQ II full length top rail
    BUIS.................Rear sight provided that works with gas block sight
    Muzzle Brake.............................1/2 x 28 threaded AE Brake and Collar
    Overall Length....................................................27 Inches
    Overall Weight...................................................5.2 pounds

    I followed the advice of the Charlies Customs guy on here, and orders the arms ring set through them.

    Optic-Trijicon Credo CR1036 2-10x36mm (I loved the nightforce and want one, but my smith had this one laying around for 300 bucks off a rifle someone never came and got so figured good deal for the price time being)
     
    Whew! Post Xmas Geissele special, hit the order button from Xmas day after a few Bullet Bourbons, a lot less than a MK 12 upper.
    Two SSA-E triggers
     
    I’ve had people offer to pay me to clean their guns

    Yep.

    They freak when they see it apart in a hospital basin soaking in Dawn.
    4 min with an old tooth brush, dry, assemble, and lube.

    I also keep spare parts and replace what is needed.

    Most just dont like it I guess.
    Or have a wife who yells about the kitchen being covered with gun parts cleaning and such.
     
    Yep.

    They freak when they see it apart in a hospital basin soaking in Dawn.
    4 min with an old tooth brush, dry, assemble, and lube.

    I also keep spare parts and replace what is needed.

    Most just dont like it I guess.
    Or have a wife who yells about the kitchen being covered with gun parts cleaning and such.
    Was about to say the wife gets mad iffin the dishwasher is full of gun parts.










    Then I wonder what kind of pervert sticks gun parts in his dishwasher, must be uncomfortable for her?
     
    Yep.

    They freak when they see it apart in a hospital basin soaking in Dawn.
    4 min with an old tooth brush, dry, assemble, and lube.

    I also keep spare parts and replace what is needed.

    Most just dont like it I guess.
    Or have a wife who yells about the kitchen being covered with gun parts cleaning and such.
    Thats funny crazy thing is my last 2 units had a parts cleaner machine basin by our arms room. No one ever used it. Not sure if were weren't allowed of if no one asked lmfao. So lots of qtips, some guys used brake clean, but as a poor private just clp with lots of qtips, old shirts, and such. I did like the otis 5.56 kits they issued in my 4 year in. I feel it worked rather well. I still have nightmare of star chambers.
     
    OK gents, finally got all my stuff in.

    Optic, as the guy from charlies said I might have to lap the rings. How do I know if I need to? I haven't put anything together yet will it fuck things up if I put the optic in and torque it down? Is there a way to know without having the lapping tools? I just don't want to mess anything up. Or is this something I should have my smith do (I don't want to get made fun of again though).

    So my aero lower and pri upper have a wiggle to them. Not the worst but kind of annoying. I know with the way a m16 system works that shouldn't have any impact on accuracy due to everything being in the upper, buttttttt it's annoying I got lucky in the army all my m4's had a rather tight fitment, my FN m4 military collector also has a rather no play fitment. How do I fix this I read about these things that can be inserted for cheap forgot what they are called though.
     
    Gen 2 Aero lowers have a nylon tipped tensioning screw under the grip. Tighten it up until you find a happy medium of slop and being able to push the takedown pin out.
    th-2014890226.jpg
     
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    That's why I love this place. Thanks guys I will have to try that. If for whatever reason that doesn't work I'll give the accuwedge a try.
    The tensioning screw should help with your issue, but there is a company called TriggerShims that makes a ton of firearm shims and gunsmith supplies, including for ARs. Old school owner and website, a bit of scrolling to find what you need. They have a pivot pin shim set that works for lateral movement. JP Enterprises makes oversize MicroFit takedown/pivot pins, but those can require some gunsmithing skills and tools.
     
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    The tensioning screw should help with your issue, but there is a company called TriggerShims that makes a ton of firearm shims and gunsmith supplies, including for ARs. Old school owner and website, a bit of scrolling to find what you need. They have a pivot pin shim set that works for lateral movement. JP Enterprises makes oversize MicroFit takedown/pivot pins, but those can require some gunsmithing skills and tools.
    Thank you very much.
     
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    My kid loves the mk12
    Badass picture man. I don't have kids yet, but that's awesome being able to take your man to the range.

    Did you paint your rifle or did you get the FDE parts?

    Also dude what shoes are those I like em, look kind of like the 5.11's.
     
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    OK gents, finally got all my stuff in.

    Optic, as the guy from charlies said I might have to lap the rings. How do I know if I need to? I haven't put anything together yet will it fuck things up if I put the optic in and torque it down? Is there a way to know without having the lapping tools? I just don't want to mess anything up. Or is this something I should have my smith do (I don't want to get made fun of again though).

    So my aero lower and pri upper have a wiggle to them. Not the worst but kind of annoying. I know with the way a m16 system works that shouldn't have any impact on accuracy due to everything being in the upper, buttttttt it's annoying I got lucky in the army all my m4's had a rather tight fitment, my FN m4 military collector also has a rather no play fitment. How do I fix this I read about these things that can be inserted for cheap forgot what they are called though.
    Don't do this!!

    Any decent quality rings these days do not need lapping. You're more likely to screw them up.