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Gunsmithing What Anti-Seize Lubricant???

Kpchurch

Voluntold Youso
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 27, 2017
115
95
Atlanta, GA
As the title states, what Anti-Seize Lubricant do you recommend when installing a new barrel?
 
Only barrels I have the gear to do are AR15s where the spec for the barrel nut threads is MIL-21164, and AeroShell 33MS is the easiest to get ahold of apparently. I already had some of the Loctite Moly Paste around so use that as it appears similar and has served well in other applications.

I have pulled guns I have done later on to change out barrels, etc and it looks like the day installed when I do.
 
I've tried all sorts. White lithium grease, Loctite silver never-seeze, copper anti-seeze, cheap-ass-grease, saphire silicone (rocol brand), etc.

Currently I use regular general purpose grease (blue lith-ex) and it's fine. I've tried torque on / off strains and tests, after a few hundred firings, and I've notice nothing significant.

Long as you have grease, you are set.
 
I've been using the same 1.5oz tube of Mil-Comm TW25B since like 2010. I've put a little dab here or there on like 25+ different guns for different things (including installing several new barrels) and probably still have enough left for another 5-10 years.
 
I use the loctite nickel anti seize in the glue stick style packaging. It doesn’t take much to cover the threads correctly. Makes barrel changes a breeze. I use nickel because it’s recommended for stainless steel applications.
 
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Here I was complaining about the price of nickel antiseize which lasts a life time. Wonder what applications that stuff is used on lol.
We used some type of Krytox branded grease for corrugated sheet (card board for boxes) production in some of the higher pressure roll applications back when I was in that business. The stuff we used was also food grade and looked brand new when we changed out rolls for refurbishing. It was something like $6k for about 40lb, which was around half a 5gal bucket. I believe the type I listed a link for is used in power generation for high pressure bearings.. like turbines, I imagine.
 
I use Aeroshell 64 which is the same as Aeroshell 33MS. I would also consider the nickel based anti-seize.
 
Thanks for all your assistance
257A557B-AD8A-4144-B232-5DEB031221C6.jpeg
 
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I use some sort of high temp moly grease from valvoline on my AR barrel nuts. And permatex aluminum on my bolt guns. I really hate when that stuff gets on the action.

Ive used permatex on bolts going into aluminum at work. those are constantly sprayed with water that has a high PH. I dont know about salinity but I have a feeling those ninja AR builders are blowing smoke when they warn against aluminum on aluminum. maybe just stay out of the ocean, but use what ever you can find!
 
As the title states, what Anti-Seize Lubricant do you recommend when installing a new barrel?
I use the copper based shit I also use on spark plugs which I get for $0.98 per pack at the cash register at the auto parts store. I have a little container that I have 2-3 packs of that squeezed in there with an equal part of Militec-1 grease. Shit lasts forever.
 
For those of you who use a copper based anti seize product, you may want to consider changing it out. In plumbing and electrical service work, it's a BIG no no to combine aluminum and copper. Those 2 products are known to have a very high Galvanic reaction with aluminum taking the brunt of the reaction.

Look it up, with the slightest contact with water, this combination can be down right corrosive.
 
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For those of you who use a copper based anti seize product, you may want to consider changing it out. In plumbing and electrical service work, it's a BIG no no to combine aluminum and copper. Those 2 products are known to have a very high Galvanic reaction with aluminum taking the brunt of the reaction.

Look it up, with the slightest contact with water, this combination can be down right corrosive.
Does that reaction only go after plain, unfinished aluminum? Does it interact with anodized surfaces as well?

Because..... Permatex copper anti-seize is recommended for.....

"Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, and fuel filter fittings."

 
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Would you want to use a copper based product on an aluminum upper?

Just asking.

Not if you are going to run electrical current through it otherwise it will probably be fine. I use the nickel based product it just seems smoother to me.
I'll add in... if the part is going to get salt water or other electrolyte-rich environment.... thats no bueno.
 
After our last go-around on this topic (sometime last year, perhaps?), I've been using Loctite LB 8009 Heavy-Duty Non-Metallic Anti-Seize:


The manufacturer claims that it "[p]rovides outstanding lubrication for all metals including stainless steel, aluminum and soft metals." This seems relevant to my interests.
 
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Quoted from Permatex site

"PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant is a high temperature, premium quality copper anti-seize and thread lubricant. It contains a high percentage of micro-fine copper flakes in a non-melting petroleum base grease carrier and fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors. Meets or exceeds the requirements of Military Specification Mil-A-907E.

PRODUCT BENEFITS
Permatex Copper Anti-Seize was designed specifically for use on stainless steel or similar alloys. It protects threaded fasteners and fittings from heat, freezing, seizure or galling at temperatures from -30F to 1800F. It may be used on pumps, sensors, valves, nuts and bolts where extreme conditions of heat exist. Permatex Copper Anti-Seize also provides good electrical conductivity."

Container Size (Part Number )
16 oz. brush-top bottle (31163)
8 oz. brush-top bottle (09128)

Not all copper anti-seize are equal. Be sure to read the technical data sheet and use at your discretion.

Fyi, I prefer copper to nickel anti-seize though I have both on hand.
 
Does that reaction only go after plain, unfinished aluminum? Does it interact with anodized surfaces as well?

Anodizing is electrically non-conductive. When you need corrosion protection and electrical conductivity through the coating, alodine is the process of choice.

So you're good to go.
 
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