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What are your favorite suppressor attachment mechanisms?

secondofangle2

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  • Jul 3, 2017
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    I have a colt M4 commando that has a Surefire SOCOM 762 compact on it, and it just occurred to me “this is a damn good mount for this application.”

    Then I thought about some other suppressor mounts I have, and I have come to really like some and hate some. I’m interested in others’ perspectives. Here’s my list and I am by no means an expert but I do have 15 cans that I’ve been using for 10+ years. I’m talking about just the mounts not the cans themselves, and some like surefire are inseparable.

    LOVE
    Surefire (for M4 platforms)
    3-lug for HK sub guns
    SAKER with 51 tooth on my 223 bolt guns and medium range ARs - a great general mount, locks tight and easy and never gets stuck
    EI can mount for DT 375CT - this thing tightens up snug, rarely loosens and never gets stuck
    Direct thread for 22LR - simple and no hassles

    HATE
    SiCo MAAD. POS, replaced it after several warranty claims w 51-tooth (I forget the SiCo name for what I think is 51T)

    Meh
    TBAC ultra. My favorite LR/precision cans but they loosen too easily and get stuck too often for me.

    I admit I haven’t bought a can for 5+ years. Whats the latest and greatest?
     
    Rearden atlas taper mount
    CGS lh thread taper mount
    Direct thread
     
    Pretty much anything taper mount. Very few with any moving parts. I've seen some with a type of locking collar and those are ok, but aside from anything like that no moving parts.
     
    Quick-Detach:

    Dead Air KeyMo
    Dead Air XENO

    Direct Thread:

    Otter Creek Labs ZR0-DTA 5/8-24

    Dislike:

    Anything designed by Kevin Brittingham...Guns, suppressors, and mounting systems (51t sucked, 90t sucked, cherry bomb sucks, plan b sucks).
     
    I have mostly dead air key-mo. I have a tri-lug on my MP5, Allen engineering brake and collar for the Mk12 and Gordy carbine. I like all those.

    I did a griffin cam-lock on a couple handguns but not sure I’m very impressed with that system. Hasn’t failed me or anything, but I don’t think I trust it to stay tight, and it also adds quite a bit of length so I’m probably just going to get some direct thread pistons for my pistol cans.
     
    Keymount/Keymicro all day for me, single exception for A419 on my bolt rifle because I use the hellfire system for swapping brake/suppressor on there. Soon it might be two exceptions if I start the paperwork on an osprey 45 2.0 (threaded booster)

    my biggest personal wishlist item for the gun industry would be for HUXWRX to get with the program and adopt 1.375x24 HUB threading like literally everyone else, so your suppressor choice and your mounting choices can be completely separate. Like the cans, hate the mounts, literally the only thing stopping me from grabbing a 7.62flow
     
    Keymount/Keymicro all day for me, single exception for A419 on my bolt rifle because I use the hellfire system for swapping brake/suppressor on there. Soon it might be two exceptions if I start the paperwork on an osprey 45 2.0 (threaded booster)

    my biggest personal wishlist item for the gun industry would be for HUXWRX to get with the program and adopt 1.375x24 HUB threading like literally everyone else, so your suppressor choice and your mounting choices can be completely separate. Like the cans, hate the mounts, literally the only thing stopping me from grabbing a 7.62flow
    I emailed them about this last week, haven't got a response. Cans look great but I've settled on Griffin taper mounts and not switching.
     
    I highly doubt hux will make a hub version.

    Surprised to see people not liking that mounting system. Adds minimal length and weight. Taper mount, LH threads. The way the can and mount are designed the gasses exiting the can actually apply some tightening torque to even further prevent a can from backing off. Although I've never seen a taper mount back off anyway.

    No idea why people like Keymo. Glad to have gotten rid of it. Adds like an inch of length and roughly 8oz. It can still carbon lock, ratchet plates wear out, etc.

    Taper mount takes all of 2 seconds longer to thread on and off.
     
    I have a colt M4 commando that has a Surefire SOCOM 762 compact on it, and it just occurred to me “this is a damn good mount for this application.”

    Then I thought about some other suppressor mounts I have, and I have come to really like some and hate some. I’m interested in others’ perspectives. Here’s my list and I am by no means an expert but I do have 15 cans that I’ve been using for 10+ years. I’m talking about just the mounts not the cans themselves, and some like surefire are inseparable.

    LOVE
    Surefire (for M4 platforms)
    3-lug for HK sub guns
    SAKER with 51 tooth on my 223 bolt guns and medium range ARs - a great general mount, locks tight and easy and never gets stuck
    EI can mount for DT 375CT - this thing tightens up snug, rarely loosens and never gets stuck
    Direct thread for 22LR - simple and no hassles

    HATE
    SiCo MAAD. POS, replaced it after several warranty claims w 51-tooth (I forget the SiCo name for what I think is 51T)

    Meh
    TBAC ultra. My favorite LR/precision cans but they loosen too easily and get stuck too often for me.

    I admit I haven’t bought a can for 5+ years. Whats the latest and greatest?
    Think what your referring to is the SiCo ASR mount. I have several cans with it. Has worked great. I do get some carbon lock on the AR’s if left sit after shooting. Zero issues other than that.

    For me anything precision related I prefer direct thread.
     
    I highly doubt hux will make a hub version.

    Surprised to see people not liking that mounting system. Adds minimal length and weight. Taper mount, LH threads. The way the can and mount are designed the gasses exiting the can actually apply some tightening torque to even further prevent a can from backing off. Although I've never seen a taper mount back off anyway.

    No idea why people like Keymo. Glad to have gotten rid of it. Adds like an inch of length and roughly 8oz. It can still carbon lock, ratchet plates wear out, etc.

    Taper mount takes all of 2 seconds longer to thread on and off.
    Mainly that threads left exposed as on hux and other mounts are prone to damage if you don't baby your rifles. it's notable that pretty much all the adopted hard-use suppressor attachment systems do not use exposed threads (except at the very beginning of the idea)

    Keymount is interesting in that it is highly repeatable, easy to deal with, and not prone to damage like thread systems that can render it difficult or impossible to use.
     
    I did a griffin cam-lock on a couple handguns but not sure I’m very impressed with that system. Hasn’t failed me or anything, but I don’t think I trust it to stay tight, and it also adds quite a bit of length so I’m probably just going to get some direct thread pistons for my pistol cans.
    I swapped everything over to EZ Lok instead of Cam Lok. In my opinion it's substantially more secure and a much better option for me.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: darkfader
    YHM’s qd mount is hard to beat.
    Yeah that's what I use. I've seen some talk about getting a certain combo of mount and break and it resulting in a little rotational movement and with one of mine I thought I had the same issue at first. It's really just not cranking it down enough to get to the next notch on the ratchet though. Its a good system and very repeatable.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: shoobe01
    Oh I am aware. I was hung by a yard arm for posting facts.
    Ahh okay gotcha. I've flipped through some threads on this, people definitely get emotional over it!
    That’s why I haven’t gotten any, but maybe it’s better than CB? You tell me.
    Honestly I think it comes down to preference. CB can be a pain in the ass at times, but honestly so is every other taper system. People have great results with POI shift and repeatability with both systems, so I'd say both are a known quantity in that regard. I prefer mounting directly onto my muzzle device, I don't love how the area 419 makes you actually take the brake off to mount a can.
     
    Griffin taper mounts, on everything.

    I would DT a 22lr can, cause, weight and necessity
     
    Per Area 419, that taper doesn't contact at all. That system mounts and centers solely on threads. Pages of info on this with lots of not happy campers. Still a solid system anyway.
    Had no idea... There are definately some surfaces that wring together when running the brake. I've had to wack my Sidewinder with a dead blow to break it loose As for when mounting a suppressor... it mounts quick, locks up tight, and I've never bounced a ELD-M 285 off a baffle. I can actually see where, with the heat involved, having two tapers wringing together could turn into a nightmare.
     
    Mainly that threads left exposed as on hux and other mounts are prone to damage if you don't baby your rifles. it's notable that pretty much all the adopted hard-use suppressor attachment systems do not use exposed threads (except at the very beginning of the idea)

    Keymount is interesting in that it is highly repeatable, easy to deal with, and not prone to damage like thread systems that can render it difficult or impossible to use.

    So keep the suppressor on?

    I see this argument from time to time. I don't understand owning a bunch of suppressors and not using them. But whatever, too each their own.

    Beyond a function check on new builds/guns I don't think I've shot a threaded rifle of mine unsuppressed in years.

    In the case of Rearden/Liberty they have a thread protector for their taper mount if you need it.

    TPNitrideEclipse-scaled.jpg
     
    • Like
    Reactions: AMGtuned
    Keymo for gas guns,

    Tbac sr for bolt guns

    3 lug for pccs
     
    Had no idea... There are definately some surfaces that wring together when running the brake. I've had to wack my Sidewinder with a dead blow to break it loose As for when mounting a suppressor... it mounts quick, locks up tight, and I've never bounced a ELD-M 285 off a baffle. I can actually see where, with the heat involved, having two tapers wringing together could turn into a nightmare.
    You're correct, the muzzle brake does center on the taper but the suppressor mount does not.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: spife7980
    So keep the suppressor on?

    I see this argument from time to time. I don't understand owning a bunch of suppressors and not using them. But whatever, too each their own.

    Beyond a function check on new builds/guns I don't think I've shot a threaded rifle of mine unsuppressed in years.

    In the case of Rearden/Liberty they have a thread protector for their taper mount if you need it.

    Its more if you have multiple firearms but only a couple of suppressors, and move those suppressors around often. Some have the luxury of a dedicated can on every rifle, most do not.
     
    Kac nt4 mount for QDSS is fool proof. But everyone has gotten so spoiled people bitch about so small rotational play. On a 10.5", no worries
     
    There are no wrench flats on TBAC CB mounts
    Um. The whole brake area is flat on top and bottom.

    Or do you want a tool to get a stuck brake out of the can when you fail to follow the manufacturer’s directions for securing the mount to the muzzle?
     
    Last edited:
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    Reactions: Charger442
    Your presumptions are both false and rude
    Please, set me straight.

    There are wrench flats on the mount.
    IMG_0100.jpeg

    Manufacturer guidelines say to red loc-tite the mount to the muzzle.
    “We recommend Loctite 272 (high temp, high strength) for mounting our CB and BA series muzzle devices to rifle muzzle threads”



    So, it seems like you are asking for a special wrench to correct a user error.
     
    Please, set me straight.

    There are wrench flats on the mount.
    View attachment 8163117

    Manufacturer guidelines say to red loc-tite the mount to the muzzle.
    “We recommend Loctite 272 (high temp, high strength) for mounting our CB and BA series muzzle devices to rifle muzzle threads”



    So, it seems like you are asking for a special wrench to correct a user error.


    giphy (6).gif
     
    • Like
    Reactions: reubenski
    Um. The whole brake area is flat on top and bottom.

    Or do you want a tool to get a stuck brake out of the can when you fail to follow the manufacturer’s directions for securing the mount to the muzzle?
    Right, I've followed the directions, and still got one stuck. Do you want that torque going to the barrel? Receiver? To the barrrel extension pin on an AR? Or add a couple flats and isolate it to the muzzle. The point is, it costs almost nothing to include flats and I have a myrid of reasons why they should be included.
     
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    Reactions: reubenski
    I have no cb cans but with that said... Cans usually get to 300-500 degrees np usually.

    Red is only holding fully until 272 and less after a couple hot cold cycles....

    Having threads before the taper is stupid and tbac obviously fixed that with the Sr mounts
     
    • Like
    Reactions: reubenski
    Having threads before the taper is stupid and tbac obviously fixed that with the Sr mounts
    IIRC when Ray’s talked about this before it’s not usually the threads causing issues, rather the taper in that people torque the fuck out of their cans whereas only a slight snug is needed. Which can of course be exasperated when the threads are dirty or accumulate crap in them.

    I decided to go CB after my Dominus K-SR and now see the superiority of the SR mount, alas too late.
     
    ^whoa!

    Ok now back on topic.

    Has any consensus emerged in this thread yet? Other than I need to spend $thousands to upgrade all my TBACS to SR LOL