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What do I need to get started?

CarbonMTN

224 Overbore
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 21, 2012
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NV
Okay so I want to get started in reloading. What is the basic stuff that I need? I'll post what I think I'll need. If you notice that I missed something and need it let me know. if there is something cheaper that does the same job or better then help me out please. I want to keep it as cheap and simple as possible. I have no problem doing things old school with analog measuring tools.

308 223 6.5 Grendel 30-30 is what I'll be reloading.

RCBS Summit - $200

Frankford tumbler - $100

RCBS Trim Pro - $107

Lee primer - $24

RCBS M1000 - $115

RCBS Trickler - $24

Loading block - $11

RCBS shell holders -$xxxx

RCBS Case Lube Kit - $19

RCBS poweder kit - $183

Calipers- $52


Inform me about dies. I like the RCBS with being able to drop a bullet into the window. But the Hornady is cheaper but is the end result the same?

Hornady
Match grade dies


RCBS
MATCHMASTER COMPETITION NECK SIZING DIE SETS - $xxx depending on cal and where I can find it
 
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Okay so I want to get started in reloading. What is the basic stuff that I need? I'll post what I think I'll need. If you notice that I missed something and need it let me know. if there is something cheaper that does the same job or better then help me out please. I want to keep it as cheap and simple as possible. I have no problem doing things old school with analog measuring tools.

308 223 6.5 Grendel 30-30 is what I'll be reloading.

RCBS Summit - $200 Rock Chucker 165

Frankford tumbler - $100 Make it 50 bucks

RCBS Trim Pro - $107 Whichever lathe you get add the drill adapter and three way cutter if possible. Major time and effort savings.

Lee primer - $24

RCBS M1000 - $115
Replace both of these with a chargemaster 1500/lite, it will be worth it to have powder weighing automated and removing your effort in doing so. Seat a bullet while it dispenses and pick up a new powder charge without having taking the time to do it yourself.
RCBS Trickler - $24

Loading block - $11 You can find them cheaper than this but I have this same block and its just as good as anything else.

RCBS shell holders -$xxxx

RCBS Case Lube Kit - $19 I would get the stuff to make your own, its just 10 parts 99% isopropyl alcohol to 1 part lanolin lube.

RCBS poweder kit - $183 This get eliminated with the chargemaster as well. If you add what you have linked at their full prices its more than a chargemaster costs. Seriously, get the chargemaster instead of a beam scale, throw and trickler.

Calipers- $52 Get these absolute igauging instead


Inform me about dies. I like the RCBS with being able to drop a bullet into the window. But the Hornady is cheaper but is the end result the same?

Hopefuly the end result is the same but I would get some forsters or reddings as they are a better product overall IMO. For the 30-30 I would be fine with the cheapest dies I could find. For the others that are probably more precision oriented I would get a micrometer seating die to make it easy to adjust it.


Hornady
Match grade dies


RCBS
MATCHMASTER COMPETITION NECK SIZING DIE SETS - $xxx depending on cal and where I can find it

Full length size your brass and skip neck sizing, it will only cause you headaches when your brass no longer fits in your rifle with neck sizing only. In addition to that you should get a hornady case headspace comparator and a hornady bullet comparator so that you can take accurate measurements on your brass so you can load accurate ammo.

Comments in red
 
NO, its just a fancier solution to the same problem that every other press solves as well. Ive read reports about the summit fasteners loosening up over time but Ive also heard they just need to be tightened as well so I dont consider it a serious issue to concern yourself over. I think @steve123 uses a summit?
Depending on where/what height you mount it you may prefer the over hand vs the underhand operation.

I sit on my couch wit the press on the coffee table in front of the tv so I like my overhand operation of the forster coax, the summit would be very similarly laid out. A rock chucker would force me to bend over too far and damn near touch the ground for each pull.
But if I were working on a counter top with the press appreciably higher than Im seated I would prefer the under hand operation of the rock chucker more.
 
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Are all digital/analog the same? like a lyman vs RCBS vs Hornady vs Starrett?
 
Honestly... for calipers, home depot, husky calipers, lifetime warranty. Going to .000x is plenty accurate for reloading and they are pretty inexpensive. Havent had a problem with mine yet.

I like the summit a lot, but if I was going to go to a single stage in that price range, it would be up to a coax I think, either the frankford or the forester
 
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Are all digital/analog the same? like a lyman vs RCBS vs Hornady vs Starrett?
No, they are not. The cheap hornady/chicom/lyman/harbor freight are all really the same thing. The starrett should be better quality. That said all should suffice for reloading purposes. The igauging absolute origins are the best value though.
 
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No, they are not. The cheap hornady/chicom/lyman/harbor freight are all really the same thing. The starrett should be better quality. That said all should suffice for reloading purposes. The absolute origins are the best value though.


You never get the cheap caliper issues with these.

A7A81E94-B107-4B8B-9174-DCD131872DC4.jpeg
 
Honestly... for calipers, home depot, husky calipers, lifetime warranty. Going to .000x is plenty accurate for reloading and they are pretty inexpensive. Havent had a problem with mine yet.

I like the summit a lot, but if I was going to go to a single stage in that price range, it would be up to a coax I think, either the frankford or the forester

I'll have to go to homedepot now. I just wish they made it in a dial too!!!!! but the summit for the price($200) I posted cant be beat. the Co-ax is $330 (best price I could find, *when* in stock) thats $130 more than the summit.

I know, i know, buy once cry once but I dont want to sink a bunch a money into something I'm just starting.
 
You never get the cheap caliper issues with these.

View attachment 7134788
I agree, I love my mitutoyo, you can instantly tell the difference in quality just holding them in your hands compared to the cheap neiko/hornady/harbor freights.

The iguaging absolute origin dont feel as solid but they still feel more solid than the cheap shitty ones and I havent ever had any issues getting easy consistent readings like the fluctuations I got with my hornadys.

@CarbonMTN skip the home depot calipers, they are functional but the igauging are worth the additional 15 bucks up front every day of the week.


Dial calipers are fine but I like digitals so I can zero them on the comparators for cleaner numbers without having to subtract the comparators dimensions.
I use my dials do outside diameter dimensions only. The digital is just handier for everything across the board.
 
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I agree, I love my mitutoyo, you can instantly tell the difference in quality just holding them in your hands compared to the cheap neiko/hornady/harbor freights.

The iguaging absolute origin dont feel as solid but they still feel more solid than the cheap shitty ones and I havent ever had any issues getting easy consistent readings like the fluctuations I got with my hornadys.

And the battery fits correctly as does it’s cover.
Batteries last longer.
The screws stay tight and don’t disappear on you.
When you zero it stays zeroed.
It doesn’t get tight on all of the sudden.
All things I’ve dealt with using cheaper calipers.
 
I understand how to read Dial calipers really well and I also understand that digital is fast and easy. but I have a LOVE for LABOR. Thats why I want a beam scale. No batteries, just take it out and its works. I'm not in a hurry to load and go. I like to know that LOVE went into every round.

So who makes the best Dial calipers, are either of these two good?

$29.39

$48.99
 
Yea I wouldn't worry about messing with the dial calipers. Digitals are waaaaay easier to zero and measure with. Like when using different comparator tools and stuff.

Yea husky ones are pretty cheap, but Mitutoyo and starrets are fucking expensive. When I was working as a machinist, that kind of precision and accuracy was required. But throwing together some 308 bullets doesn't require calipers that cost as much as some pistols, imho. Igauging is alright, they have some cool features. The reason I got a husky caliper was, i broke my last one from harbor freight and needed something that day... home depot is 5 minutes away, so oh well.
 
I understand how to read Dial calipers really well and I also understand that digital is fast and easy. but I have a LOVE for LABOR. Thats why I want a beam scale. No batteries, just take it out and its works. I'm not in a hurry to load and go. I like to know that LOVE went into every round.

So who makes the best Dial calipers, are either of these two good?

$29.39

$48.99

Youll begin to resent the labor side of it and hopefully you dont burn yourself out on reloading before you get into an automated powder scale.

When I started brass prep (trim/chamfer/deburr) took 40% of the total time, powder weighing took 40% of the time leaving 20% for sizing and seating only. A charge master removed that 40% time cost penalty and a motorized trimmer with a three way cutter took care of the other 40%. What use to take me from sunday until thursdays to compelte for the next weekend I can now pretty much complete on Sunday, Monday if I fart around with it.



Just realize that to compare your shoulder measurements to anything you find published youre going to have to subtract your comparator dimensions each time. For a before/after with your gear its fine. Its beyond that where the dials make communicating anything difficult.

And neither linked are not really great... I got a pair of cabelas dials that are the same thing as those more expensive rcbs dials you listed and they only cost me 25 bucks in store. They still sit on my counter. But at some point, I dont know exactly since I dont use the frequently, the dial itself shifted. Still seems to measure fine when compared to the mitutoyos... but one day the indicated zero location went from being at 12 oclock on the face to 9 oclock. Spinning the backing paper got it back to reading fine. "These are stupid fucking problems to have... but a problem none the less."

If you are dead set on dials for some reason and really do want the best then the brown and sharpe, starrett, mitytoyos will still be the best just like they are in the digitals. These three are lifetime purchases in most cases. The cheap rcbs/hornady/neiko/harbor freights are a short term investment.

And if I had the benefit of hindsight when I was first starting I would have skipped it entirely and gone to the iguaging ha dit been avaliable. And I would have probably still grabbed my mitotoyos when I found them on sale for 80 bucks just out of curiosity.

If it seems like Im harping on this fact a lot that the cheap ones suck its because I am... because the cheap ones suck. It only takes using them next to a better quality caliper to make clear the differences instantly. Take advantage of our collective experience so that you can enjoy the hobby more than fight it.
 
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Check out this Lyman turret press. It's on sale also. Just picked one up and I really like it. Done 200 rounds on it so far.


It's really nice to be able to set up your dies once and never have to take them back out and reset them each time. You could probably set all your dies up on there and never have to touch them again. They make additional heads for them also if you acquire more dies.


X2 on the chargemaster. I went that route also. Really like that thing.

I'm only doing precision rounds, but I also got a redding dial indicator to take measurements with in the press. Makes measurements much easier faster and more accurate that using a caliper each time.
 
If you use lock rings on your dies you never have to re "set them up" no matter what the press is. Yeah, youll need to screw them in but that takes 10 seconds only.
 
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I understand how to read Dial calipers really well and I also understand that digital is fast and easy. but I have a LOVE for LABOR. Thats why I want a beam scale. No batteries, just take it out and its works. I'm not in a hurry to load and go. I like to know that LOVE went into every round.

So who makes the best Dial calipers, are either of these two good?

$29.39

$48.99

Uh yeah F that noise I got shit to do today like go shoot. I'm not weighing 1k rounds at a time on a beam scale........
 
Uh yeah F that noise I got shit to do today like go shoot. I'm not weighing 1k rounds at a time on a beam scale........
This. Hell I don't even like waiting for chargemaster. Still takes 30 min to throw 100 charges with the chargemaster. Can't even imagine how long it would take with the beam scale and trickler.
 
This. Hell I don't even like waiting for chargemaster. Still takes 30 min to throw 100 charges with the chargemaster. Can't even imagine how long it would take with the beam scale and trickler.
3x longer at least. I went from 3 hours to trickle up and seat 50 rounds, basically a whole evening spent craning my neck over to read the beam on the table, to about an hour for those same 50 with a CM at a leisurely pace.

The CM to an autotrickler was like going from black and white to color tv, nice but not a paradigm shift.
The beam to a CM was like going from pony express to television. Whole fucking new world.
 
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I'm lucky if I get to shoot once a month. The 223, 308, and the grendel are my long game. So if I get to go to the range i may just shoot 40-100 center fire rounds and check my data. 22lr and 17 hmr is my plinking stuff and ill go through 300+ rounds in one session. So If I got a month to make a few rounds I'm not worried about rushing through it. Plus I can use it to teach my son.
 
Uh yeah F that noise I got shit to do today like go shoot. I'm not weighing 1k rounds at a time on a beam scale........

in the beginning ill just use the beam but i already plan on getting competition power measure and then checking my charge every 5-10.
 
I've been using a beam for many years. It's definitely time consuming. Right now my bench arrangement prevents me from using an electronic auto measure. In my apartment garage, there are no outlets for power, and I dont really want to throw charges in the kitchen.

When we move next year, I'm probably going to get a CM or one of the new frankfords, provided they are a good product
 
in the beginning ill just use the beam but i already plan on getting competition power measure and then checking my charge every 5-10.


The beam is fine to start, and after a while you'd realize what you really prioritize in your reloads. For some, it's kernel level accuracy, for others, it's speed and +/- .1gr is acceptable. What you're after will drive your upgrade.

I find i like trickling with a beam scale - and I have a CM lite and dillon powder throwers.
 
Another vote for Mitutoyo calipers. I got mine for $125 off Amazon...worth every cent. My cheap Frankford Arsenal caliper never held zero perfectly and it drove me insane.

Another press I would at least look at is the MEC Marksman press. I absolutely love mine. Operating the ram is unbelievably buttery smooth
 
The shit @spife7980 is laying down is solid. Other than main press choice that is personal to me because some are prettier. Lol

The equipment he has told you to avoid is under my bench for counter ballance.

Past that even, the mentoring he does on the hide should get him some beers or a dinner if I ever see him.

Some others have valid points as well and I don't disclaim thier input.

As I upgrade equipment I bounce it off his list first, saves time and money.
 
1. An MTM universal funnel kit
2. Safety Glasses
3. DIY case lube; you can make spray on lube using 1 part lanolin and 12 parts 99.9% alcohol. It's faster cheaper and better than the stuff you put on by hand.

I also strongly suggest the Chargemaster Lite. It's cheaper than your scale, trickler, and thrower combo. It's nearly as accurate and a whole lot less labour intensive.
 
Bought a (used) Dillon RL550b in the mid-1990's.

If you wonder how much their owners like them, try looking for a used one.

It primes, so no prime tool. The Dillon flip tray came with it, I still use it. Same with the primer pick-up tubes.

RCBS Chargemaster Lite, because it's the most accurate I've used so far. Because it is a two speed trickler with built in scale, it's close to foolproof.

Being a fool, I'd know...; I simply had to give up on the auto measure on the 550b. I fought with that thing for a couple of decades.

I added the Lyman Powder Pal funnel/scale pan.

Came with a Lyman dial caliper, still running.

RCBS Case Prep center. I don't use it that much, but when I'm reloading cases with crimped primers, its invaluable.

I load .223, 6.5 Grendel, .260, 7,62x39, .308, 30-06, and 7,62x54R. The 6.5's use Hornady New Dimension dies, all the rest are RCBS; all dies are 2-die F/L dies. All my chambers are SAAMI spec, and I try to stay far away from hot/max loads. I use RCBS water soluble case lube. All of my .30's and 7,62's are set up to use .308 bullets. All my 30-06 loads are limited to permit use in my Garand. Velocity is overrated.

I spent a couple decades getting to where I am, and I'm at a much simpler place, simple as I can get.

I do case prep/priming; then do charging./seating. No special bells and whistles, but extra care about being consistent and getting it right. Yes, I sacrifice some accuracy; but with SAAMI chambers and my age approaching the mid-70's, its not such a great loss to begin with. I have case gauges and set my dies and Savage barrels up with them, and headspace gauges, in order to keep the brass hardening down to a minimum.

If I were shooting BR, I'd probably be round the bend by now, anyway. I don't, and you'll have to ask the rest of the forum about that other thing.

I don't hold onto brass trying to set reloading cycle records. When primer pockets get big (nearly never) or necks split, (same), I have fresh brass waiting. I take care in the die setup to minimize brass work hardening, with extra care paid to headspace and seating depth.

Research your load carefully before committing to expending components on them, and stay away from hot loads/max loads.

Proper Personal Safety Gear goes without saying, but...

Just an Elder Fart imparting some experience..

Listen to Spife, even if we don't always get to agree on all of it.

Greg
 
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are all ultra sonic cleaners the same?

How does the Hornady hold up agains the RCBS?