i just got my pof ar10 and only have iron sights on it...its pretty amazing so far but my question is what scope and ring set do i really need to get out to 1k. i have about 1800 to spend. what set up should i run. any help would be greatly appreciated
Rifle Scopes what do i need to get to 1000
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Re: what do i need to get to 1000
I would get a set of rings that will allow you to mount your scope as low as possible. Any of the good name brands will do, you have Badger, Leupold, NF, Seekins, Ken Farrel, and theres plenty more take your pick.
Now for the scope again any of the big wigs will do as long as they have enough elevation travel. Leupold MK4 4.5-14x50, NF NXS, Sightron SIII MD - these three have 100 MOA of travel. There's a lot more brands do some research here, there's plenty of info to be found.
Here's what I have on my AR10 T for example:
Notice how close the optic is to the handguard?
I will be shooting this rifle at 1000 yards this Friday I will let you know the results.
I would get a set of rings that will allow you to mount your scope as low as possible. Any of the good name brands will do, you have Badger, Leupold, NF, Seekins, Ken Farrel, and theres plenty more take your pick.
Now for the scope again any of the big wigs will do as long as they have enough elevation travel. Leupold MK4 4.5-14x50, NF NXS, Sightron SIII MD - these three have 100 MOA of travel. There's a lot more brands do some research here, there's plenty of info to be found.
Here's what I have on my AR10 T for example:
Notice how close the optic is to the handguard?
I will be shooting this rifle at 1000 yards this Friday I will let you know the results.
Re: what do i need to get to 1000
If it was me I'd go with the Nightforce 2.5-10X32 with mildot reticle and mrad zero stop knobs (or MOA/MOA if you prefer) set in a Nightforce Unimount or a LaRue LT-104 if I was worried about taking it on and off a lot. LaRue Tactical sells the Nightforce in one of their mounts for about $1700.
If you need more magnification the 3.5-15X50 will also work perfectly while still being inside of your budget.
If it was me I'd go with the Nightforce 2.5-10X32 with mildot reticle and mrad zero stop knobs (or MOA/MOA if you prefer) set in a Nightforce Unimount or a LaRue LT-104 if I was worried about taking it on and off a lot. LaRue Tactical sells the Nightforce in one of their mounts for about $1700.
If you need more magnification the 3.5-15X50 will also work perfectly while still being inside of your budget.
Re: what do i need to get to 1000
Ditto on what Trigger Monkey said, but I'd up the magnification for a NF 3.5-15x50. I had a 5.5-22x50 NF and it was great for long range (clunky for shorter ranges). MLR/Mils or R1/MOA. Unimount will give you 20MOA elevation which will keep your optic centered better at long range, but you don't need the 20MOA base with the NF to reach 1K with a 308.
Ditto on what Trigger Monkey said, but I'd up the magnification for a NF 3.5-15x50. I had a 5.5-22x50 NF and it was great for long range (clunky for shorter ranges). MLR/Mils or R1/MOA. Unimount will give you 20MOA elevation which will keep your optic centered better at long range, but you don't need the 20MOA base with the NF to reach 1K with a 308.
Re: what do i need to get to 1000
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CubeWarrior</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ditto on what Trigger Monkey said, but I'd up the magnification for a NF 3.5-15x50. I had a 5.5-22x50 NF and it was great for long range (clunky for shorter ranges). MLR/Mils or R1/MOA. Unimount will give you 20MOA elevation which will keep your optic centered better at long range, but you don't need the 20MOA base with the NF to reach 1K with a 308.
</div></div>
Or you can use those dang annoying hash marks or dots for holdovers when you run out of travel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CubeWarrior</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ditto on what Trigger Monkey said, but I'd up the magnification for a NF 3.5-15x50. I had a 5.5-22x50 NF and it was great for long range (clunky for shorter ranges). MLR/Mils or R1/MOA. Unimount will give you 20MOA elevation which will keep your optic centered better at long range, but you don't need the 20MOA base with the NF to reach 1K with a 308.
</div></div>
Or you can use those dang annoying hash marks or dots for holdovers when you run out of travel
Re: what do i need to get to 1000
i guess i should have added that i want a ffp scope and if i am right that puts night force just out of my range. i like the idea of that larue mount i may have to check that out. thanks for everyones reply's if anyone has anything different let me know
i guess i should have added that i want a ffp scope and if i am right that puts night force just out of my range. i like the idea of that larue mount i may have to check that out. thanks for everyones reply's if anyone has anything different let me know
Re: what do i need to get to 1000
Leupold sells FFP scopes http://leupold.com/tactical/products/scopes/
Contact Scott from Libertyoptics he WILL hook you up, trust me... He is a vendor here on the hide and his CS is great! http://www.libertyoptics.com/
Leupold sells FFP scopes http://leupold.com/tactical/products/scopes/
Contact Scott from Libertyoptics he WILL hook you up, trust me... He is a vendor here on the hide and his CS is great! http://www.libertyoptics.com/
Re: what do i need to get to 1000
After several years of F-class shooting with an AR, I can assure you that you DO NOT WANT to mount the scope as close as possible to the handguard. You want to mount the scope at a height that will be comfortable for you to look through. My scope is 2.25 inches above the bore line; you need to have a proper cheekweld.
I use a Magpul PRS stock and I refined the cheekweld with the adjustable comb.
After several years of F-class shooting with an AR, I can assure you that you DO NOT WANT to mount the scope as close as possible to the handguard. You want to mount the scope at a height that will be comfortable for you to look through. My scope is 2.25 inches above the bore line; you need to have a proper cheekweld.
I use a Magpul PRS stock and I refined the cheekweld with the adjustable comb.
Re: what do i need to get to 1000
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After several years of F-class shooting with an AR, I can assure you that you DO NOT WANT to mount the scope as close as possible to the handguard. You want to mount the scope at a height that will be comfortable for you to look through. My scope is 2.25 inches above the bore line; you need to have a proper cheekweld.
I use a Magpul PRS stock and I refined the cheekweld with the adjustable comb. </div></div>
Ok, but what if as close to the handguard ends up being my proper cheekweld and it is comfortable for me? And because my scope has a 50mm objective my sight height is actually 2.4 inches. So DO NOT WANT is not really a true statement, what works for you might not work for others and vice versa (my cheekweld is not like you cheekweld). The OP was asking what he needed to get to 1000 and other than a canted base, a scope with 1000moa of travel, faster load and holdovers having a shorter seight height will give him more room to play with.
Magpul PRS stocks are awesome but are quite expensive and adds a lot of weight to an already beefy AR10.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After several years of F-class shooting with an AR, I can assure you that you DO NOT WANT to mount the scope as close as possible to the handguard. You want to mount the scope at a height that will be comfortable for you to look through. My scope is 2.25 inches above the bore line; you need to have a proper cheekweld.
I use a Magpul PRS stock and I refined the cheekweld with the adjustable comb. </div></div>
Ok, but what if as close to the handguard ends up being my proper cheekweld and it is comfortable for me? And because my scope has a 50mm objective my sight height is actually 2.4 inches. So DO NOT WANT is not really a true statement, what works for you might not work for others and vice versa (my cheekweld is not like you cheekweld). The OP was asking what he needed to get to 1000 and other than a canted base, a scope with 1000moa of travel, faster load and holdovers having a shorter seight height will give him more room to play with.
Magpul PRS stocks are awesome but are quite expensive and adds a lot of weight to an already beefy AR10.
Re: what do i need to get to 1000
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Joeyhotfizzle</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After several years of F-class shooting with an AR, I can assure you that you DO NOT WANT to mount the scope as close as possible to the handguard. You want to mount the scope at a height that will be comfortable for you to look through. My scope is 2.25 inches above the bore line; you need to have a proper cheekweld.
I use a Magpul PRS stock and I refined the cheekweld with the adjustable comb. </div></div>
Ok, but what if as close to the handguard ends up being my proper cheekweld and it is comfortable for me? And because my scope has a 50mm objective my sight height is actually 2.4 inches. So DO NOT WANT is not really a true statement, what works for you might not work for others and vice versa (my cheekweld is not like you cheekweld). The OP was asking what he needed to get to 1000 and other than a canted base, faster load and holdovers having a shorter seight height will give him more room to play with.
Magpul PRS stocks are awesome but are quite expensive and adds a lot of weight to an already beefy AR10. </div></div>
You originally said: "I would get a set of rings that will allow you to mount your scope as low as possible." There was no qualifier, no caveats, nothing but "mount (it) as low as possible."
My contradictory statement was aimed directly at your very narrow statement. I explained that proper cheekweld and comfort are the determining factors to use in ring selection and scope placement, not the narrow "mount it as low as possible," meme. My method will work for everybody because it is tailored to the user; yours will not because it is tailored to the scope.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Joeyhotfizzle</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sig685</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After several years of F-class shooting with an AR, I can assure you that you DO NOT WANT to mount the scope as close as possible to the handguard. You want to mount the scope at a height that will be comfortable for you to look through. My scope is 2.25 inches above the bore line; you need to have a proper cheekweld.
I use a Magpul PRS stock and I refined the cheekweld with the adjustable comb. </div></div>
Ok, but what if as close to the handguard ends up being my proper cheekweld and it is comfortable for me? And because my scope has a 50mm objective my sight height is actually 2.4 inches. So DO NOT WANT is not really a true statement, what works for you might not work for others and vice versa (my cheekweld is not like you cheekweld). The OP was asking what he needed to get to 1000 and other than a canted base, faster load and holdovers having a shorter seight height will give him more room to play with.
Magpul PRS stocks are awesome but are quite expensive and adds a lot of weight to an already beefy AR10. </div></div>
You originally said: "I would get a set of rings that will allow you to mount your scope as low as possible." There was no qualifier, no caveats, nothing but "mount (it) as low as possible."
My contradictory statement was aimed directly at your very narrow statement. I explained that proper cheekweld and comfort are the determining factors to use in ring selection and scope placement, not the narrow "mount it as low as possible," meme. My method will work for everybody because it is tailored to the user; yours will not because it is tailored to the scope.
Re: what do i need to get to 1000
Yes you're right I should have said 'as low as possible without messing up your cheekweld and it should be comfortable'. But to say YOU DO NOT WANT mount the scope as close as possible to the handguard - is also false. You dont know what optic he's going to use, he might purchase one with a 56mm objective. Also you dont know his facial bone structure.
OP, so there you go mount it as low as possible, as comfortable to you as possible and it should also provide the best cheekweld for you unless you want to use a PRS stock and you dont have to worry about your scope being too high. The PRS is not just not my cup of tea.
Yes you're right I should have said 'as low as possible without messing up your cheekweld and it should be comfortable'. But to say YOU DO NOT WANT mount the scope as close as possible to the handguard - is also false. You dont know what optic he's going to use, he might purchase one with a 56mm objective. Also you dont know his facial bone structure.
OP, so there you go mount it as low as possible, as comfortable to you as possible and it should also provide the best cheekweld for you unless you want to use a PRS stock and you dont have to worry about your scope being too high. The PRS is not just not my cup of tea.
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