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Suppressors What should I suppress first?

Cameltoehunter

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 11, 2013
18
0
St. Louis, mo
I don't have any buddy's that have anything suppressed to ask this, so I need some much needed advice. I want to suppress my rem 700 308, and my 10/22, but which one first. I don't want to have $1500 sitting out there for the 6 months it takes them to hopefully approve my fourm 4 for a 30 cal can, or be unhappy with the purchase. Has anyone been let down by suppressing there long range rifle. I've done a lot of research on them and they seem to have a lot of benefits, like reduced felt recoil and better accuracy. So has any one just wished they didn't
spend the money or just spent spent less money and suppressed a 22 and not the long range rig? I don't shoot competitions just paper and steel. :confused:
 
Once you suppress that long range rig, you will want to supress everything. I consider mine the best $ I've spent on the rifle (short of good glass). I would just buy a Thunderbeast Arms 30P-1 and not look back.
 
supress which ever one you shoot more!!! My only regret about mine is that I didn't buy them 15 yrs ago.
 
If you had a pistol to can/suppress... I'd probably lean on the 22 know that you could that can on multiple host.
.. but as coyote sniper says... supress which ever one you shoot more.

I shoot both pistol and rifle a lot... so I got both of'em at one time :)

You won't regret!
 
It's definitely the 308. I'm just concerned with if it effects the accuracy. Has anyone had to change any reloading recipes or are you able to run the same ammo you are currently loading?
 
It's definitely the 308. I'm just concerned with if it effects the accuracy. Has anyone had to change any reloading recipes or are you able to run the same ammo you are currently loading?

Not here. Just POI shift an inch at 6 o'clock and still getting similar groupings (excited at the time couldn't help but make sloppy groups, lol)... but, it's all on the equipment I would guess.
I have an AAC SDN6 on a GAP .308 22 inch non-fluted barrel, and my shots/groups are consistent.

Oh... and I've been using 175 gr SMKHPBT, 43.7 gr of Varget, CCI Magnum primers.
With and without the can I get the same less than 1 MOA 5 shot groups at a hundred.
 
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I havn't shot any of the rifles i have threaded without it since i got it . neither of em have any accuracy issues either. had to pull scopes to have threaded sighted em back in and they shoot great.
 
i first suppressed my 308 with a TBAC 30BA.... i have two other cans in the F4 process right now, and one is a 5.56 and the other is ANOTHER 30 cal can to be used on my 300 blackout.

Since the TBAC was ahead of the others, probably by 3-4 months, i have shot 22LR through it ( oh lawdy lawdy, how can you even think about doing that?) and ive got another brake to mount it to my 5.56 AR.

Hindsight being what it is, i would probably have gone with a dedicated 22LR can before the 5.56 but im not that broken up about it. when the 5.56 get in, i can shoot 22 through it as well, so i have a ton of options. its all about options.
 
Here's the deal....suppressing a .22 rifle is just not that rewarding. Normal ammo goes supersonic in a barrel over 4.5 inches or so, which gives you the sonic crack...which is not noticeably different from the normal report of an unsuppressed .22 rifle. They aren't all that loud to begin with, and a can doesn't change that much. Now, if you have a .22 pistol like a Ruger, browning, walther p22, etc. then a .22 suppressor is AWESOME. But if the choice is between suppressing your .308 bolt gun and suppressing a 10-22 rifle, then that's easy - get the .30 cal suppressor for the boltgun. A suppressed boltgun is back to AWESOME, because the supersonic crack that you still have (like on the suppressed .22 rifle) is WAY quieter than the rifle's normal report. Huge difference.

Get a TBAC 30BA or 762SDN-6 and get a 1/2x28 threaded mount for them and you can actually use them on your 10-22 in a pinch...but you won't be impressed with the difference. Cans just don't help .22 rifles enough to be worth it. Short barrel .22, yes, but not rifle barrels.
 
All excellent advise, you are going to end up with both once you get your hands on whichever one you decide on first. I love my .22 can because it allows me to shoot on family land all day long with the loudest noise being the ding on steel. The .308 can I have is equally great at the range, you will love it. The only thing I might do different, and this really has nothing to do with your post, is plan my AR builds better. My first AR came with a pinned Surefire Brake and my second build was a 300BLK with an AAC brake for the SDN 6 that should be arriving soon. I will need to either get another can for the .556 or swap out the brake and use the 30 cal on both. Long story short, plan ahead (like you are) and it is all about options. Hurry up and do it, then you can sit a wait with the rest of us!
 
Buy a good 308 can and you will have the option of adapting it to lower calibers until the fever and your bank account are once more aligned...
 
I put my can on the centerfires when I want to be "extra cool" at the range. When I actually want to hit something, I shoot with a brake. I can't explain the shots that are WAY OFF from target. I'm talking 3-4 moa. Never consistent on their placement. I also prefer the recoil reduction of a brake compared to a can.
 
Get a .30-cal can first. Get a 22LR can later.
If you can afford both at the same time, do it. You will buy both eventually anyway (it's an unstoppable phenomenon).

Avoid shooting tons of 22LR in your 30-cal can if it's not user-serviceable. Lead build-up is a pain...

Don't let chainring's rifle-vs-pistol observations discourage you. A suppressor on a 10/22 still makes it more fun to shoot. And if you put subsonic ammo in it, your 10/22 will be quieter than a spring-power BB gun. :) Also, that 22-can will be a great companion for a Ruger Mark II/III pistol or a 22LR bolt gun...

Goin'Hot: What brand of suppressor and who threaded the barrel? Usually a suppressor "helps" accuracy, or at least 'maintains' it with a consistent POI shift...
 
I have never shot any caliber suppressed, but I plan to buy one this year and its gonna be 22lr.

I have a 308, and I will eventually get a 30 cal can that will be used on my 308 bolt as well as my ar15. But I just shoot so much more 22lr than centerfire it makes more sense to get a 22lr can first. I can use it on my 22 handgun (already threaded), my savage bolt gun (needs to be cut down and threaded) and I plan on selling my ar15 22lr conversion kit in favor of a 22lr upper that will be threaded. Thats 3 guns (pistol, bolt, semi) I can shoot all with the 22lr can on. After a trust, tax stamp and the suppressor, Im looking at 7-800$ not including threading my savage.

If I were to buy a 308 can it would cost roughly 1500$, plus Id have to get my 308 threaded and Id have to find a way to attach it to my ar15. So best case senario I could use it on 2 gun and it would cost 2-3 times as much.

And when I go shooting I shoot about 500rds of 22lr, about 20-50 308 and 223. It just doesnt make sense for me to get a 308 can in the near future, maybe its different for you.
 
Get a .30-cal can first. Get a 22LR can later.
If you can afford both at the same time, do it. You will buy both eventually anyway (it's an unstoppable phenomenon).

Avoid shooting tons of 22LR in your 30-cal can if it's not user-serviceable. Lead build-up is a pain...

Don't let chainring's rifle-vs-pistol observations discourage you. A suppressor on a 10/22 still makes it more fun to shoot. And if you put subsonic ammo in it, your 10/22 will be quieter than a spring-power BB gun. :) Also, that 22-can will be a great companion for a Ruger Mark II/III pistol or a 22LR bolt gun...

THIS^^^

My first foray into suppressors was with a Sparrow and 30P-1 at the same time...looking back I dont think I would do it any differently now. I have added more along the way but I think that was a great way to get started. I also second snake-eyes' sentiments about shooting suppressed 22LR rifles. I have only bought standard velocity 22LR ammo (below 1100fps) since I bought my cans and they are stupid quiet through all of my 22 rifles (10/22, dedicated AR, multiple bolt guns, etc) and the pistols. I mainly shoot CCI standard velocity (1070fps on the box) and it runs in all of my semiautos just fine. Ive found that 99% of the time you can get away with bulk pack stuff in pistols and it will stay subsonic.
 
Goin'Hot: What brand of suppressor and who threaded the barrel? Usually a suppressor "helps" accuracy, or at least 'maintains' it with a consistent POI shift...

Can is a AAC 7.62 SD and a Shark, Jaws. Threading done by Lawton machine, APA, Jon Beanland, to name a few.

The accuracy is great for a couple shots, and then it would throw one. No idea why.
 
Can is a AAC 7.62 SD and a Shark, Jaws. Threading done by Lawton machine, APA, Jon Beanland, to name a few.

The accuracy is great for a couple shots, and then it would throw one. No idea why.

Weird... I'm sure you already checked for any copper on the edges of the baffles to indictate a strike. Maybe the cans are unscrewing themselves slightly in those first shots?

Another option might be a burr. I was talking to my gunsmith just yesterday (he's a Class 2/ Class 7 guy). He told me of a time he was trouble-shooting an integral setup that was throwing flyers. Long story short: it was a burr that still had enough metal to "flap" out of the way. So one shot might fly by w/o touching it, but the back-blast would push it to "flap" and settle in the way of the next shot. Just that little bit of post-barrel contact in-flight was enough. Deburred and the groups shrank back down consistently...

Didn't mean to side-track the OP's thread. It is relevant for someone new to suppressors on what to expect...
 
My limited experience with the AAC setup is the mounting system can allow the can to wiggle around...not good for accuracy. That being said before anyone flames me I have only Ben around a couple of them for about an hour on the range with the owner. I'm sure there is a way to get a positive mount but he hadn't figured it out yet and I want given the opportunity to do more than handle the rifle.

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Not here. Just POI shift an inch at 6 o'clock and still getting similar groupings (excited at the time couldn't help but make sloppy groups, lol)... but, it's all on the equipment I would guess.
I have an AAC SDN6 on a GAP .308 22 inch non-fluted barrel, and my shots/groups are consistent.

Oh... and I've been using 175 gr SMKHPBT, 43.7 gr of Varget, CCI Magnum primers.
With and without the can I get the same less than 1 MOA 5 shot groups at a hundred.

Here's the deal....suppressing a .22 rifle is just not that rewarding. Normal ammo goes supersonic in a barrel over 4.5 inches or so, which gives you the sonic crack...which is not noticeably different from the normal report of an unsuppressed .22 rifle. They aren't all that loud to begin with, and a can doesn't change that much. Now, if you have a .22 pistol like a Ruger, browning, walther p22, etc. then a .22 suppressor is AWESOME. But if the choice is between suppressing your .308 bolt gun and suppressing a 10-22 rifle, then that's easy - get the .30 cal suppressor for the boltgun. A suppressed boltgun is back to AWESOME, because the supersonic crack that you still have (like on the suppressed .22 rifle) is WAY quieter than the rifle's normal report. Huge difference.

Get a TBAC 30BA or 762SDN-6 and get a 1/2x28 threaded mount for them and you can actually use them on your 10-22 in a pinch...but you won't be impressed with the difference. Cans just don't help .22 rifles enough to be worth it. Short barrel .22, yes, but not rifle barrels.

My limited experience with the AAC setup is the mounting system can allow the can to wiggle around...not good for accuracy. That being said before anyone flames me I have only Ben around a couple of them for about an hour on the range with the owner. I'm sure there is a way to get a positive mount but he hadn't figured it out yet and I want given the opportunity to do more than handle the rifle.

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How did you get the SDN6 to lock up tight? Did you make the modification from BayouRobert? I can't get mine to lockup for the life of me and get huge vertical stringing. Cade @ AAC has said he is going to take a look at but I have already sourced a 30-P1 to replace it. If you want to shoot precision do consider a direct thread on can.
 
Well, I just wanted to post my honest experience with cans. No doubt that they are cool but, when I want to actually hit something over 800 yards, they come off.

I have the old 18 tooth AAC mount and I check to verify that the can is not coming loose. No signs of a baffle strike anywhere.

The Shark is a direct thread can. No looseness there either. My shooting partner has noticed the same "issues" with his form 1 cans as well. Out of the blue, a shot goes goofy.

Unfortunately, "cool" doesn't make steel go ding.
 
.22lr...by far. pistols with any ammo are quiet, 4.5" ar's are fun/quiet, shoot CCI SV's in anything else and it'll be quiet.

.308 generally aren't hearing safe.....my .223 barely is

if not a .22lr, then i'd do a 9mm and shoot 147/158's
 
.22lr...by far.


Agreed.

I have suppressors for every caliber I shoot from .22 on up and if I had to get rid of all of them but one, I'd keep one of my SWR Spectre-II's for rimfire fun. As to the supersonic .22 ammo comment above, that's why everyone who cares about accuracy shoots subsonic ammo! I've not shot supersonic .22 ammo in a decade.
 
Don't let chainring's rifle-vs-pistol observations discourage you. A suppressor on a 10/22 still makes it more fun to shoot. And if you put subsonic ammo in it, your 10/22 will be quieter than a spring-power BB gun. :) ...

You guys must be using different ammo than I am - everything I have run through my M&p15-22 with a SpectreII (or a buddies 15-22 with an AAC .22 can) on it was basically indiscernible from unsuppressed. Honestly, I've never regarded .22 rifles to be loud enough to need hearing protection anyway, so adding a can on the end with no discernible improvement turned out to be a waste for me. Glock with a TacSol .22 conversion or a Ruger Mk3 with a can is a whole different story. An SBR'd 1022 would be a lot of fun, too.
 
you must be having issues...

my mp15-22 was basically silent other than the bolt running....
my 10/22 is the same
my savage mk2 bolt is quieter than a mouse fart
my sig522 is quieter than my 10/22 and 15-22
my 4.5" ar is quieter than a pistol
my GSG1911 is hella quiet
my Ruger mk3 is hella quiet

etc...etc...etc.....

CCI SV will almost always be quiet in anything.....at least, every .22lr that i own is. Aquila sub sonic is very quiet.

in 5" or shorter barrels....i shoot only blazer, federal bulk, or federal automatch
 
Obviously this was with supersonic ammo.....thus the supersonic crack? :) I'll track down some subs sometime. I tend to shoot a LOT of .22, and haven't made the investment in subsonic ammo when I've got plenty of super on hand. I'm not sure subs would really have the terminal velocity that I want, though.
 
Agreed, 22's are a blast to adopt suppressed, just have to make sure you have the right ammo.

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My dedicated AR shooting 22LR CCI standard velocity with a Silencerco Sparrow...pretty quiet.

 
I know it has been beat like a dead horse but i would go with the 30 cal first. just adding in a little more peer pressure. to me a 22 rifle is not loud enough to warrant hearing protection but a 308 is something i would not shoot without ear plugs. my ti-arbiter is quiet enough that i can go outside my house and shoot and people inside can't hear a thing if the door is closed. it keeps the neighbors happier. i have a 9mm can pending right now that i can switch between a 22 and 9mm pistol to quiet that down some. just my 2 cents.
 
Do both ( but the .22 first - you can take more people out to shoot your .22 [ thinking kids, wife, neighbors, etc. ] than with your .308 ).
 
The only reason I see to suppress the 22 is avoid disturbing your neighbors. If you're shooting the 308 more at this time, you'd likely end up shooting the 22 more once suppressed since you can shoot it in the back yard, so that may be a consideration.

Before I suppressed the 22, considering the price and wait, I'd be looking to get a 22 cal airgun and suppress it without going through the ATF...airgun suppressors are cheap.
 
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why bother supperssing a .22lr rifle if you're too cheap to buy standard velocity ammo? that's as intelligent as buying a 9mm and only shooting 115gr............

I bought a .22 suppressor to go on pistols....a platform in which full power ammunition seldom achieves supersonic speeds, which works great. In testing it on a rifle on a whim, I noticed that the can didn't help much, since the .22 rifle just isn't loud anyway. I won't bother questioning your intelligence like you did mine, since your willingness to jump to conclusions and your surprise that everyone is not on your exact page is a pretty good indicator in that respect. ;-)
 
Can these 22 cal airgun suppressors mount to a 22lr firearm? If they can, what differentiates them from a regular 22lr suppressor that you have to get a stamp for?
 
Suppressors are an addiction. I think my wife would be happier if I was addicted to crack, it would problably be cheaper too. My expierience, since nothing I own I will shoot without a can, is go .30 cal 1st. I threw my 22 can on my 10/22 for the fun of it and it did not impress me. You still have the action cycling and making noise. On my MarkII that is another story, quiet as hell. Also, as stated before, any .22 pistol suppressed is a major noise reduction and outright arousing. I shoot a .308 Savage 20" barrel with a YHM Phantom. It is nearly as quite as my 10/22. You will not be disappointed going 30 cal 1st.
 
Can these 22 cal airgun suppressors mount to a 22lr firearm? If they can, what differentiates them from a regular 22lr suppressor that you have to get a stamp for?

The difference is the airgun suppressor is designed to only dissipate air and not the high temperature gasses created by gun powder. If you look at the airgun moderator design, they are far less sophisticated than a firearm can...basically just a set of gaped baffles. They'd work on a firearm for a little while, just not with the reduction you get from a properly made can.
 
22lr. i have a 10/22 with sbx barell. its awesome, i have 308 and 223. but the 10/22 subsonic is hollywood quiet its great. 308 should be 2nd.
 
I bought a .22 suppressor to go on pistols....a platform in which full power ammunition seldom achieves supersonic speeds, which works great. In testing it on a rifle on a whim, I noticed that the can didn't help much, since the .22 rifle just isn't loud anyway. I won't bother questioning your intelligence like you did mine, since your willingness to jump to conclusions and your surprise that everyone is not on your exact page is a pretty good indicator in that respect. ;-)

quite

so, not questioning your intelligence, but if you shot supersonic ammo in a suppressed rifle, knowing it would go supersonic, you're not really testing shit...are you? Go buy some ammo better suited and shoot it...this isn't rocket science, everyone knows how it works
 
Well, I just wanted to post my honest experience with cans. No doubt that they are cool but, when I want to actually hit something over 800 yards, they come off.

I have the old 18 tooth AAC mount and I check to verify that the can is not coming loose. No signs of a baffle strike anywhere.

The Shark is a direct thread can. No looseness there either. My shooting partner has noticed the same "issues" with his form 1 cans as well. Out of the blue, a shot goes goofy.

Unfortunately, "cool" doesn't make steel go ding.

Dinging steel at 800 with this setup is no problem. It's almost boring.

IMG_4465.jpg
 
.22lr...by far. pistols with any ammo are quiet, 4.5" ar's are fun/quiet, shoot CCI SV's in anything else and it'll be quiet.

.308 generally aren't hearing safe.....my .223 barely is

if not a .22lr, then i'd do a 9mm and shoot 147/158's

If you're 308 suppressor isn't hearing safe, you need a new suppressor.
 
i said "generally"
shooting full loads with a 168...to the majority of people, a .308 isn't hearing safe with ANY suppressor. To me, some of the louder ones are fine...but I have a higher tolerance than a lot of folks from hearing damage at a younger age.
 
quite

so, not questioning your intelligence, but if you shot supersonic ammo in a suppressed rifle, knowing it would go supersonic, you're not really testing shit...are you? Go buy some ammo better suited and shoot it...this isn't rocket science, everyone knows how it works

Well, yeah, subs out of a .22 is bound to be fun and quiet...but I shoot supersonic through my .223 and 30 cal cans nearly 100% of the time. The objective of a can for me is to make a platform that ISN'T hearing safe, hearing safe....not needed on a .22 rifle. If you're a hobbiest, playing around or smokin your neighbor's cat in town, that might be worthwhile. I'm out in the country, though, so a .22 caliber pill tossed at subsonic speed is just not much of a draw except from a pistol....which would not be hearing safe in the absence of a can. Not all of us want to play ninja, some guys just like to be able to shoot without the hassle of hearing protection. A .22 rifle already meets that need without the expense of a can....thus my recommendation that the OP suppress his 30 cal first. I did, most certainly, TEST supersonic ammo in a rifle with a SpectreII....and it doesn't make a discernible difference, no surprise there. So unless you want to spend a noticeable amount of money, paperwork and time to hang a cool looking suppressor off the end of a .22 rifle and throw tiny subsonic pills with about the same effectiveness as a decent, non-regulated pellet gun, don't bother. 190 grain subs from a .308 with an effective range past 200yards is a better way to spend subsonic money, for me.

However, I recognize that your mileage may vary, regardless of the rocket science involved.
 
i said "generally"
shooting full loads with a 168...to the majority of people, a .308 isn't hearing safe with ANY suppressor. To me, some of the louder ones are fine...but I have a higher tolerance than a lot of folks from hearing damage at a younger age.

I am using 175gr. SMK full power loads. I will try to get some video next time we go shooting. This suppressor is way more than hearing safe.
 
My $0.02. I went with a 22lr first, a Silencerco Sparrow, and it was the best purchase I've ever made. I love to shoot in the quiet of 6:00 in the morning during summer, before work, with my 22, and had built a shooting tube (insulated 4' tube made with air ducts) since my family and neighbors like to sleep. This was cumbersome to say the least. With the Sparrow, it was even quieter and of course portable. Now I can shoot CCI SV, whatever subsonic or standard velocity, or any match ammo I choose in my bolt action Savage Mark II and NOBODY knows about it. Only sound is the tap of the firing pin, whoosh of the bullet, clank on steel (which I consider the loud part.) I can shoot any position I want, out the back door of my garage. Best. Purchase. Ever.

Next was the AAC 762-SDN-6, which was probably a mistake for accuracy looking backwards, given the testimonies here. I haven't noticed accuracy issues myself, just a POI shift, but it may be coming. I do so love being able to swap it between my 308 and AR-15. It's mighty impressive on the range and sells suppressors... However, I cannot shoot in the morning. Only when people don't care about the supersonic snap.
 
Well fellas, I went with the TBAC 30p-1 in good ole black!! Time to sit back and wait. The guys at silencer shop are awesome! I have never emailed a company and had a response in 5 mins. It usually takes days, but these guys are on there A game. they have keep me up to date with multiple emails about the whole process. Any ideas on the wait times so far? I'm hearing 6 to 7 months.
 
Well fellas, I went with the TBAC 30p-1 in good ole black!! Time to sit back and wait. The guys at silencer shop are awesome! I have never emailed a company and had a response in 5 mins. It usually takes days, but these guys are on there A game. they have keep me up to date with multiple emails about the whole process. Any ideas on the wait times so far? I'm hearing 6 to 7 months.

Was it in stock? If so then the Form 3 will take 2 months to your dealer, then 6-7 months for Form 4 to clear. If they had to order it from TBAC add 13 weeks to that timeline.
 
It was in stock. Silencer shop sent me an email saying it would take 2 to 4 weeks to do the sot transfer and ship to my missouri dealer. I was just curious, I've been reading that the ATF hired more people to help speed up the process, but was wondering if the wait was still 6 to 7 months.
 
key words are tranfer to dealer, not to individual. the transfer to you (the individual) will be the 6 -7 mo. This is why you find a dealer in stock, helps cut down the wait.
 
You can't go wrong with a 30 cal can. I'm waiting on my 338 can that I will run on both the 338 and 308. I have a sparrow 22 and a Gemtech 45. Love them both. Looking to buy a 308 and 50BMG cans next. Good luck on the wait.