Gunsmithing What to do to a barreled action before coating

[mtm87tx]

What are things you should add or consider modifying a barreled action before sending it to be coated?

Things not an option for me:
anything that has to do with removing barrel or requires major alteration to the assembly

looking into cerakote in black

 

[Mgordon]

Re: What to do to a barreled action before coating

Whoever is doing the work can do all the prep work depending on where your sending it.

I leave the barrel on the action, clean with degreaser, wipe clean, hang and prep. Bake in oven to ensure no locking agent, oil or grease will come out, then its ready to be sand blasted.

So just include all parts needing to be refinished and break them down as far as you can. Also, put detailed description of what your looking to get done and an inventory sheet.


Mark

 

[tpowers]

Re: What to do to a barreled action before coating

Pretty much as stated above.
If you are looking for a really good combination, you may want to look into having your bolt ionbonded and the rest cerakoted.

 

[Schleifalot]

Re: What to do to a barreled action before coating

excuse me for jumping onto this thread.

Right now I'm considering whether paint or not to paint my Tikka STAINLESS barreled action.

The action is fine bead blasted from factory. Is this sufficient to apply duracoat after degreasing etc? Or schould I blast again to remove the chromeoxide layer which is on the surface?

By the way, I got an RCS accuracy style stock for my Tikka. Now the stainless action sits in the green stock looking like a pimp in da woods.

 

[snipedogg]

Re: What to do to a barreled action before coating

I would guess it would be okay to just hit it. I know with Parkerized finishes you just degrease and spray it, not sure about a chromeoxide layer that your talking about. If it's bead blasted then the surface should be rough enough for the coating to adhear

 

[Schleifalot]

Re: What to do to a barreled action before coating

The longer I think about it, the more I tend to blast the action. After reading some threads here, and with my own experience, a "rough" surface will hold best.
The chromeoxide layer develops on every stainless steel surface. This layer makes the steel stainless, it prevents oxigen from reaching the iron in the alloy. Whith some adhesives removing the surface layer is critical to the bonding.

OT, last week I shot the Tikka in the RCS the first time.
Short: GREAT
Before: Half MOA on a good day, frequently fliers due to the factory stock
After: Half MOA repeatably doable, fliers due to the knuckle dragger behind the stick