What would you change with this setup?

[Temp9]

I am brand new to handloading, so any and all advice is greatly appreciated. I'm mostly going to be loading for a 16" 1/8 .223 AR, but I will be loading for a .308 bolt gun in the (relatively) near future. Accuracy and cost-savings are my main reasons for handloading. I don't have a hard budget limit, but rather I'm trying to maximize value. Being a college student doesn't allow for much extra funding.

-RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Kit - $238 after rebate
--Rock Chucker Supreme Single Stage press
--505 scale
--Uniflow Powder Measure
--Speer Reloading Manual
--Hand priming tool with small and large primer plugs
--Folding Hex Key Set with 0.050", 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 9/64" and 5/32" keys
--Universal Case Loading Block, which holds 40 cases in most rifle and pistol calibers
--Case Lube Kit, which includes a 2 oz bottle of Case Lube-2, a case lube pad, 2 case neck brushes for .22 through .30 calibers and an accessory handle
--Powder Funnel for .22 to .45 caliber, including the Winchester Short Magnum calibers
--Chamfer and deburring tool for .17 through .60 caliber
*Most kits seem to come with awful scales and powder measures, but this one comes usable ones. Buying all the pieces separately would cost close to $350-400, if I did my math correctly. Unlike the Lee set, there is nothing here that I would need to upgrade immediately (hopefully).

-RCBS Powder Trickler 2 - $22

-RCBS Shell Holder #10 - $8

-Lee RGB 2 die set - $18

-Hornady Lock n Load Comparator (6 inserts) - $27

-LE Wilson Case Trimmer and holder - $49

-Lyman Xpress Case Prep Center - $124
*Seems much easier than hand tools, and honestly, it doesn't cost all that much more than the tools do separately. Will ream, uniform, and clean primer pockets and deburr/chamfer.

-Ultrasonic cleaner from Amazon (600mL) - $30
*Not the best, but I could probably stuff enough cases in there.


Total price is $510.62 after a $25 Midway discount. $460.62 after the mail in rebate. What do you think -- enough for me to load accurate ammo for a couple years? I haven't researched components much yet, but I'm thinking of starting with 69 grain Sierra MK and Hodgdon Varget. I'll figure that out later, but I'm pushing 8 hours of research this weekend on reloading. I need to get some air....

 

[ejb]

Re: What would you change with this setup?

don't forget a bullet puller and you will need a caliper for the comparator and a few moor reloading manual's when you can swing them it's nice to have a few diffrent ones other than that it look's good for a start.

 

[Temp9]

Re: What would you change with this setup?

Bullet puller added to cart. I have a decent caliper. If I keep it zeroed, it's dead on compared to a Brown and Sharpe micrometer I have. Any reloading manuals you would recommend?

 

[wburke2010]

Re: What would you change with this setup?

A few things that I have learned

It's nice to have the loading book from the manufacture of the bullets you will be loading.

If you don't go the case prep center direction make sure the hand tools you get have a big handle and is comfortable, the smaller tools are hard on the hands after loading a bunch of rounds.

Also I have found that the imperial sizing wax is much easier to use than the rcbs lube, and you don't need to use a lot of it.

None of this is a must but it is what I have learned to make it easier.

Walter

 

[427Cobra]

Re: What would you change with this setup?

Case prep center is a waste of money, get a cordless drill, don't waste your money on a US machine, an old fashion vib cleaner with crushed walnut shells and Nu-Finsh car wax works just fine and more importantly shoots better that super clean brass, add a decapping die.

 

[Temp9]

Re: What would you change with this setup?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: wburke2010</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A few things that I have learned

It's nice to have the loading book from the manufacture of the bullets you will be loading.

If you don't go the case prep center direction make sure the hand tools you get have a big handle and is comfortable, the smaller tools are hard on the hands after loading a bunch of rounds.

Also I have found that the imperial sizing wax is much easier to use than the rcbs lube, and you don't need to use a lot of it.

None of this is a must but it is what I have learned to make it easier.

Walter</div></div>
Good idea with the manual. I'll figure out which to buy after I pick a bullet. Would I still use the sizing wax with the pad, or do I smear it on with my fingers?

 

[Temp9]

Re: What would you change with this setup?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 427Cobra</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Case prep center is a waste of money, get a cordless drill, don't waste your money on a US machine, an old fashion vib cleaner with crushed walnut shells and Nu-Finsh car wax works just fine and more importantly shoots better that super clean brass, add a decapping die. </div></div>

Would you recommend something like this in combo with a small cordless drill? I already have small cordless screwdriver I can use if the tools are 1/4" hex drives.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/394805/lyman-power-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-set

Why do you say vibratory shoots better? Everything I've read previously seems to say US cleans the inside of the case better, and vibratory makes the outside shiny, but leaves the inside filthy.

As for the decapping die, the FL sizing die has a decapping unit. Is there any advantage to having a dedicated decapping die?

 

[wburke2010]

Re: What would you change with this setup?

I don't use a pad I just run my finger across the wax, it is in a little tin can, then apply to the case. I do not put any pressure down I just lightly run my finger across it and that gives me enough to lube two cases sometimes three.


Walter

 

[Gene Poole]

Re: What would you change with this setup?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Temp9</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 427Cobra</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Case prep center is a waste of money, get a cordless drill, don't waste your money on a US machine, an old fashion vib cleaner with crushed walnut shells and Nu-Finsh car wax works just fine and more importantly shoots better that super clean brass, add a decapping die. </div></div>

Would you recommend something like this in combo with a small cordless drill? I already have small cordless screwdriver I can use if the tools are 1/4" hex drives.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/394805/lyman-power-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-set
</div></div>

The best chamfering/trimming tool I've used is the Forester. The 3-in-1 head is simply the best at chamfering the inside and outside at the same time, but if you have to trim to spec first, then it is slow an hard when cutting through more than a few thousandths. Use the flat cutter (under the 3-in-1 head) for fast cutting to spec. Trim all your brass with the normal flat cutter, then readjust with the 3-in-1 head and a quick 3 or 4 turns gives you a perfect smooth clean chamfer inside and out.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Temp9</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Why do you say vibratory shoots better? Everything I've read previously seems to say US cleans the inside of the case better, and vibratory makes the outside shiny, but leaves the inside filthy.
</div></div>

Vibratory cleaners leave a ton of dust and lots of particles stuck in your flash holes. Ultrasonic is not as mirror shiny as a tumbler or vibratory cleaner, but it gets them surgically clean inside and out with no dust or particles jammed in your flash holes.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Temp9</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
As for the decapping die, the FL sizing die has a decapping unit. Is there any advantage to having a dedicated decapping die? </div></div>

The dedicated decapper allows you to decap dirty cartridges right out of the gun and not damage the FL die with dirt and debris. You could clean cases, FL size/decap, then clean again (to get the primer pockets clean) but with a dedicated decapper, just decap once and clean once.

 

[Temp9]

Re: What would you change with this setup?

Gene Poole,

I actually really like the idea of that Forster 3-in-1 cutter. That would replace the trimmer and case prep center as well, and actually save me $50 or so. The 3-in-1 head slides over the cutter on the Forster case trimmer, right? How hard is it to set the trim length with that stop collar on the Forster trimmer?

As long as I'm not overly concerned with the shininess of the case, the US cleaner should give me better results than the tumbler then, right?

That's a very good point about the decapper. I didn't think about that. Dedicated decapper added to cart!


Thanks so much for the help, guys. Between the mass amounts of things to consider and the sticker shock, my head is spinning and sore.

 

[cotntop]

Re: What would you change with this setup?

Redding dies
RCBS shellholders
Imperial wax
Rockchucker Press
Wilson trimmer/collets
Lyman case prep center
SS wet tumble
Lyman 1200 electronic scale
Lyman trickler (adjustable height base)
funnel
Sinclair loading blocks
These items have served my purpose over all the rest have purchased. (accurate/fast)