Gunsmithing When bedding...how do you keep the epoxy out of the pillar hole?

[GSRswapandslow]

I have a pillar bedded walnut stock that i TRIED to glass bed a few weeks back...and, well, its ugly as hell.

I'm switching the stock out for another barreled action and am going to rebed the action to see if i can't make it a little nicer.

So, how do i keep the epoxy from going down into the pillars at this point? This is a howa action...so the recoil lug has the action bolt in it.

 

[myers129]

You need long bolts with the heads cut off and make sure you apply release agent to the bolts. These will guide your action right in to place as well.

 

[CHADPEZZLE]

Not sure about Howa, but when I've bedded my Rem. 700 I use some extra long screws that fit the action threads (1/4-28) Cut the heads off and wrap the screw body with painters tape until the diameter of the wrapped screw fits snuggly into the pillar holes.

The painters tape helps block the epoxy from getting into the pillar holes and also centers the action into the pillar holes a bit.

I thread the screws into the action, and coat the tape and action with some mold release and lay it into the stock when I'm ready to bed the action.

 

[lash]

The above responses are good. Before you tried bedding, did you look at any resources walking you through it first? There are plenty of available videos showing how it’s done and great articles detailing the steps.

Start by copying and pasting this into your browser: bedding an action

 

[Wannashootit]

As mentioned, plenty of release agent is key.
Shop swab/Q-tip inside the pillars and on the locating studs.
Unscrew the studs before trying to pull the action- if you've used enough release agent they'll break free easily to be removed. Use release agent on the threads of the screws as well before screwing into the action.

 

[Hateca]

Lots of ways to skin the cat. I myself if any bedding gets into the holes I just use the correct fitting drill bit to remove the bedding. If you are using guide pins to center the action with already glued in pillars or pre drilled holes you better be damn sure those pillars are straight before bedding the barreled action.

 

[Baron23]

Mr Gradous on bedding.

 

[Mauser06]

Maybe I do it wrong....I soak my actual action bolts in release agent. Fill their holes with wax. Fill the threads on the bolt with wax. Do my bedding and use my actual action bolts while the bedding sets. I snug them up. Not crazy tight. Maybe 20ft/lbs if I had to guess.


A few hours later, when the compound starts firming up good, I trim all the excess compound off that oozed out and I break the bolts free a few turns and turn them right back to the same spot.

No issues and far as I can tell, the rifles Ive done like it. No shifting POI...can take the stocks off and torque them back to spec and they still shoot and are zeroed.


But I'm no gunsmith....your mileage may vary and I'm sure I'm doin it wrong.

 

[Hateca]

Maybe I do it wrong....I soak my actual action bolts in release agent. Fill their holes with wax. Fill the threads on the bolt with wax. Do my bedding and use my actual action bolts while the bedding sets. I snug them up. Not crazy tight. Maybe 20ft/lbs if I had to guess.


A few hours later, when the compound starts firming up good, I trim all the excess compound off that oozed out and I break the bolts free a few turns and turn them right back to the same spot.

No issues and far as I can tell, the rifles Ive done like it. No shifting POI...can take the stocks off and torque them back to spec and they still shoot and are zeroed.


But I'm no gunsmith....your mileage may vary and I'm sure I'm doin it wrong.

Nope I know others that do it the same way as you. Like I said more ways to skin a cat. After you do a few hundred you find the best way that works for you. My bedding method changes a little depending on rifle manufacture.

 

[Mike Casselton]

Maybe I do it wrong....I soak my actual action bolts in release agent. Fill their holes with wax. Fill the threads on the bolt with wax. Do my bedding and use my actual action bolts while the bedding sets. I snug them up. Not crazy tight. Maybe 20ft/lbs if I had to guess.


A few hours later, when the compound starts firming up good, I trim all the excess compound off that oozed out and I break the bolts free a few turns and turn them right back to the same spot.

No issues and far as I can tell, the rifles Ive done like it. No shifting POI...can take the stocks off and torque them back to spec and they still shoot and are zeroed.


But I'm no gunsmith....your mileage may vary and I'm sure I'm doin it wrong.

20lbs ft? Aye you sure?

That's 240in lbs.

The recommended torque for a 1/4×28 bolt is 50-70in lbs. That equates to an average of 5lbs ft.

 

[Wannashootit]

Maybe I do it wrong....I soak my actual action bolts in release agent.

As mentioned, no "right" or "wrong"- just preferences.
Many (myself included) feel that using the action screws introduces point loads capable of negating a truly "stress free" bedding job.
This is something that can be verified (or not) by using indicators on the barrel after bedding is completed.

Using studs to locate the action correctly, and compressing the action into the bedding evenly is the approach I prefer. I use surgical tubing wrapped the length of the action, others use electrical tape, etc.

Plenty of discussion here you can find via search, as well as elsewhere online on this topic.

 

[Ledzep]

Wrap barrel with painter's tape so that it sits centered in the barrel channel (free floated), and zip-tie the action into the stock for the cure.

 

[Mauser06]

20lbs ft? Aye you sure?

That's 240in lbs.

The recommended torque for a 1/4×28 bolt is 50-70in lbs. That equates to an average of 5lbs ft.

Yep.... definitely meant in/lbs lol.

 

[Threadcutter308]

As mentioned, plenty of release agent is key.
Shop swab/Q-tip inside the pillars and on the locating studs.
Unscrew the studs before trying to pull the action- if you've used enough release agent they'll break free easily to be removed. Use release agent on the threads of the screws as well before screwing into the action.

This

 

[gnochi]

Extension of this: the Marlin 336 action assembly slides into the stock inlet, and is cross-bolted into a blind hole. And ideas?

 

[LRI]

If you never want to have to fight this, do the following:

You start off by enlarging your pillar holes in your stock so that you can attach them to the action and set the whole thing in the stock without any interference. Next, you tape the barrel just ahead of the recoil lug and up in the front right at the forward edge of the stock so that the barrel is aligned and the action basically hangs in space. Trim your pillars to the appropriate height so the floormetal installs correctly.

Now, clay/grease up your action and sterilize your pillars. Grease up your screws and wind up some masking tape on the screws so that they just slip into the pillars but don't flop around. Snug all that shit up. Just has to be tight, not torqued or any other hocus pocus.

Now clay/mask your stock as you see fit. Mix up your resin and apply as you normally would. Wet the pillars on the outside and the holes. Squish it together BUT only clamp or apply pressure along the barrel channel. NOT where the action is. Otherwise, you'll sink the action in the stock and the barrel will be pointing skyward.

Zip ties work great for this.

Now let it cure. As part of your cleanup, you should Q tip the bottom side and expose the screw heads. Do this well before the resin starts to go off and get stiff. If your smart you put some clay in the hex of your fasteners after tightening them up and before you started applying resin. Just wipe em clean with dry Q tips and let the stuff cure. Dig the clay out with a pick and remove your screws once your ready to tear it all back down.

Take a hammer with a wooden handle and rap the action a few times with the handle (not the hammer!). This will shock the cohesive bond and help you pop the action from the stock. Assuming you get this right the next step is pulling the receiver. Rocking it out is how you ruin a bedding job. It'll destroy the edge right behind and in front of the recoil lug. (Remington style lug) Your much better off using a bedding jack. I make them and they work better than anything ever sold by anyone else. I promise you that. If that is not worth it to you, dig out the clay in the receiver and install something that is round that won't hurt the inside of the action. A big Phillips screw driver will work fine. You now push off the handle and the cheek piece of the stock as you apply upward pressure on the barrel up front. You grunt a little, but they will pop loose this way too. Just DONT rock it. It must come straight up/out of the stock. Taping the front/sides of the lug helps you tremendously here.

Your screws with come right out this way and you get all the newborn baby without all the cervical dilation. Pillars are installed stress-free at the natural height the action wants to sit at.


Hope this helps.

C.

 

[Wannashootit]

Easy peasy bedding jack. Piece of U-channel (or weld up plates) and a raceway mandrel.