Finally pulled the trigger and got Mark at SAC to build me a .260. Earlier in the year when I put the order in, both Southwest and Copper Creek had .260 ammo for around $30 a box. Now all of the Rem brass is gone and Lapua is all that's available. I don't currently reload so I was pumped to get match ammo in Rem brass for significantly cheaper than what I can get now. Any advice? I might as well keep shooting my 300WM!
- Thread starter rgrmike
- Start date
Why not look at this as the watershed event that launched you into handloading? Especially for a caliber like .260 REM where there isn't an abundance of factory ammo out there.
You will save a LOT of money and the results you get will far surpass anything out of a box.
--Fargo007
I need to get into hand loading. I'm currently moving a lot so it's a pain in the butt to get set up. Eventually i'll get all set up but it's just not the best time. I also don't have anyone around me that hand loads so I'll be figuring it all out on my own. I'm sure I can research it on here and be just fine though. It just kinda irks me because I built this as a hunting rifle and I could be shooting a lot more potent cartridges for less money (factory ammo). 7WSM, 300WSM, etc are right on par concerning ammunition costs and they hit a decent amount harder. I guess I was just overly excited when Copper Creek and Southwest had Rem brass and were loading up some nice stuff for a decent price.
Well, Remington brass was the only reason I got into .260 instead of 6.5CM. I sent an email to Remington 5 months before the Hide Cup this year because I wanted to know if I could buy RP .260 brass directly from them.
Some gal sent me back an email that said something to the effect of, "sorry, but all of our ammo components are being applied toward loaded ammunition." She had no ETA as to if/when RP reloading components would be back for sale.
Fucking sucks too...
Some gal sent me back an email that said something to the effect of, "sorry, but all of our ammo components are being applied toward loaded ammunition." She had no ETA as to if/when RP reloading components would be back for sale.
Fucking sucks too...
A local shop keeps Remington brass in stock. If there is an interest, I will check this week and see if he has any 260 brass.
That would be awesome!
If I could get a list or a link to a list of the things I will need that would be great. I'll probably only load rifle ammunition. I would rather buy once cry once and get some nice stuff.
Mike,
Pick up a copy of The ABCs of Reloading and a reloading manual. Read both of these first before buying equipment.
The ABS is an excellent beginners overview and you need the manual for data. I will check on brass tomorrow.
Pick up a copy of The ABCs of Reloading and a reloading manual. Read both of these first before buying equipment.
The ABS is an excellent beginners overview and you need the manual for data. I will check on brass tomorrow.
you can probably find someone on here that would sell or reload some for you
I am pretty sure Mile High had a ton of Lapua 260 brass in stock, I think a couple thousand rounds worth. Last time I was there I saw it, and I doubt all those cases moved.
If you want Lapua brass call Mile High, I wouldn't look online I would just call
If you want Lapua brass call Mile High, I wouldn't look online I would just call
Once fired factory loaded Lapua 260 brass should fetch ~75¢ a piece around here, so factor that into your "actual cost" calculations.
I'd bet anything in my safe there's a forum member from your area that'd gladly mentor you in reloading.
I'd bet anything in my safe there's a forum member from your area that'd gladly mentor you in reloading.
I really appreciate the advice guys. I'll keep you guys posted and let you know what I get into. I'll try to throw a pic up of my new .260 when I get it as well. Now I just have to learn how to shoot the damn thing!
Give Win 7-08 brass (a unicorn in its own right these days) a shot...
Mike,
If you want to get shooting, I've got a few boxes of Copper Creek 139 scenars, a box of 120 Barnes TSX BT, and a box of Federal premium 120 Nosler BT that I could let go. I picked them up for the future chance I could do some LR hunting, but that is a bit in the future for me now, so it could get you started if you like. They all use the rem. brass. Shoot me a PM if interested.
If you want to get shooting, I've got a few boxes of Copper Creek 139 scenars, a box of 120 Barnes TSX BT, and a box of Federal premium 120 Nosler BT that I could let go. I picked them up for the future chance I could do some LR hunting, but that is a bit in the future for me now, so it could get you started if you like. They all use the rem. brass. Shoot me a PM if interested.
I'll take them. PM inbound.
I've emailed Remington multiple times, actually keep sending the same one over and over again. Have several tickets numbers and never gotten a response in the past few months even though it says a few days is typical.
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I did some research and it seems your results are typical. They're using all of their brass for factory loaded ammunition. Lapua seems to be the current readily available source.
Start reloading, find either .243Win or 7mm-08 brass and reform to .260Rem. Not finding .260Rem brass should not be a reason to keep you from shooting.
Euro optic usually has .260 Lapua brass. Lately I've been using my K&M precision tool to neck up .243. Its easy as hell and makes finding brass easier.
http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/case-neck-expanding-tools/expand-iron_complete.html
http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/case-neck-expanding-tools/expand-iron_complete.html
You've been necking up .243 Lapua to 6.5mm?
No donuts?
Every time I've ever necked up Lapua, I've gotten a donut - though I've never used .243.
FWIW, Midway is showing Norma brass in stock in 260 Rem in 20s and 100s - the box of 2000 (?) out of stock but can be backordered, although with no indication of when it might become available. They also have Norma in stock, of which they are VERY proud, and Lapua which is cheaper than either of the N's. Cheapest of all is the Remington brass, but it's out of stock in all sizes with no backorder. But Midway does have a very efficient email notification system, that will let you know when something goes back in stock.
During the primer shortage last year I often found that even though I was at my computer when the back-in-stock email arrived and I immediately clicked on the direct link to the product page, they would be sold out already. But I'm guessing that 260 Rem cases don't have quite as many vultures waiting to pounce, so getting some Lapuas to start and getting on the notify list for Remington brass might be a short term strategy to consider. Or just bite the bullet up front and stock up on Lapua cases now.
During the primer shortage last year I often found that even though I was at my computer when the back-in-stock email arrived and I immediately clicked on the direct link to the product page, they would be sold out already. But I'm guessing that 260 Rem cases don't have quite as many vultures waiting to pounce, so getting some Lapuas to start and getting on the notify list for Remington brass might be a short term strategy to consider. Or just bite the bullet up front and stock up on Lapua cases now.
Not necking lapua. I just buy the 260 Lapua from euto optic. I neck whatever 243 brass I find...lately its been winchester. I neck it up/ size / deburr/ flash hole deburr and I've had zero issues using this tool. Brass turns out awesome.
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The suggested reading is good advice IMHO.
Well there's of course smart-car, chevy, cadillac, and lamborghini.
I did it 100% on my own with online resources and that was back when the internets was young. Now you've got videos, guides, all kinds of stuff. And a place where you can ask questions too.
It occurs we should have a "GETTING STARTED" thread in the reloading section with a lot of this info.
I'm a good reloader but I'm not going to claim expertise enough for that.
Off the top of my head:
A press. Any single stage will do but if you want to go caddy you can bump up to a turret type press (which can still be used in the manner of a single stage)
Shell holders for your calibers. (holds the base during loading operations)
Scale
Powder meter
Digital calipers
Dies
Lube
Stuck case remover (for your dies when you think you have enough lube on but you don't)
Tumbler & media
Priming tool (hand priming tool is just fine)
Case trimmer
----------
I probably missed a couple things but that's most of it.
--Fargo007
You will eventualy need a bullet puller, too. I used one of the hammer-type inertial models when I reloaded 30 caliber rifle stuff and for pistol loads (they're cheap and use a universal case holder, so you don't need specific holders for different cases.) But when I started loading 223, with its much lighter bullets, I had to go to a collet-type puller, and having done so I wished I'd done that with the 30 calibers, too. Much quicker to pull a bullet, and the case stays upright so the powder stays inside. I leave it permanently set up in its own press, even though it rarely gets used now that I've developed the proper loads for my 223.
But I use Lee presses, which are inexpensive enough that my old Challenger and newer breech lock Challenger together cost less than the often-recommended RCBS Rock Chucker (and they both keep spent primers under control.) Dies in breech lock collars snap in and out in a second or two, about as fast as you can twist a turret on a turret press. If I wanted to spend more on a press than a Lee costs, I'd almost certainly pick the Forster Co-Ax, which also allows near-instantaneous die changes - you'll get a lot of recommendations for one of those, too.
Also keep in mind that there is an endless parade of tools made for reloaders, each of which can look indispensible for accuracy or convenience (or both) when you read or hear about 'em. And while their individual prices can seem trivial compared to what we pay for a scope or even a high end stock, they do add up. And you'll want to have at least SOME of 'em. So take the lesson from a remark by a well known, big spending politician of the past (I think it was LBJ, but don't hold me to it) - a billion here, a billion there, pretty soon you're talking real money. Don't blow too much of yours on a gold plated press (or scale, or case trimmer, to pick two other tools for which useful but expensive choices are available) at the start.
But I use Lee presses, which are inexpensive enough that my old Challenger and newer breech lock Challenger together cost less than the often-recommended RCBS Rock Chucker (and they both keep spent primers under control.) Dies in breech lock collars snap in and out in a second or two, about as fast as you can twist a turret on a turret press. If I wanted to spend more on a press than a Lee costs, I'd almost certainly pick the Forster Co-Ax, which also allows near-instantaneous die changes - you'll get a lot of recommendations for one of those, too.
Also keep in mind that there is an endless parade of tools made for reloaders, each of which can look indispensible for accuracy or convenience (or both) when you read or hear about 'em. And while their individual prices can seem trivial compared to what we pay for a scope or even a high end stock, they do add up. And you'll want to have at least SOME of 'em. So take the lesson from a remark by a well known, big spending politician of the past (I think it was LBJ, but don't hold me to it) - a billion here, a billion there, pretty soon you're talking real money. Don't blow too much of yours on a gold plated press (or scale, or case trimmer, to pick two other tools for which useful but expensive choices are available) at the start.
Forgot the case prep tools 8)
Chamfer and debuting tool.
Also if you want flash hole deburring tool
Brass brush to clean the inside neck for your cal.
Rgrmike,
No 260 brass at the local shop this morning. If you are serious about reloading, send me a pm. I can send you a Hornady 8th edition manual and a few goodies that you will need.
No 260 brass at the local shop this morning. If you are serious about reloading, send me a pm. I can send you a Hornady 8th edition manual and a few goodies that you will need.
I giggle at all of you saying Remington is putting all it's brass into loaded ammo. I have had two boxes of 140gr Core Lokt on order since DECEMBER!!! I don't know where they are shipping it, but it's not to Cabelas!
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Big Green hasn't made 260 brass since probably December 2012....
wrangler5 -- since you referred to a inertia type bullet puller I'd like to add a comment on their use. When the box arrives, they include a set of simple aluminum "holders" held together with an O ring that are supposed to grip the base of the cartridge. What garbage, as these little gadgets almost immediately disintegrate when used "with some enthusiasm" to pull stubborn bullets.
My solution is to chuck these little gadgets and instead use a steel cartridge holder (from your press) of the correct size, upside down, to hold the base of the cartridge in the inertia hammer. The plastic hammer top screws right over the steel holder and you can really whale away with enthusiasm to pull stubborn bullets. Using this modification has given me new respect for using the inertia hammer.
My solution is to chuck these little gadgets and instead use a steel cartridge holder (from your press) of the correct size, upside down, to hold the base of the cartridge in the inertia hammer. The plastic hammer top screws right over the steel holder and you can really whale away with enthusiasm to pull stubborn bullets. Using this modification has given me new respect for using the inertia hammer.
A collet bullet puller is so much easier to use and not expensive at all
Interesting. My original RCBS hammer type puller has a single aluminum 3-part cartridge holder whose 3 parts were held together with a very thin circular steel spring. Mine has been working just fine through decades of pounding on a short piece of railroad rail that I use as an anvil. I did replace the little steel spring with an o-ring a few years ago.
I switched to the collet type puller for rifle bullets when I started loading 223, and found that the lightweight bullets in long tight necks (compared to, say, 9mm Luger rounds) just didn't have enough mass for the inertial puller to break free without an excessive amount of pounding. If I were starting reloading for rifles, I would just start with one of the collet type pullers.
I appreciate the offer. I'm looking into reloading and should be up and running in a month or so. I appreciate everyone's help and advice.
That's what I've seen up there as well... I was there today, but wasn't looking for brass, so I didn't notice if the .260 Lapua brass was there. But, things otherwise looked well stocked and normal from a brass/bullet perspective.
To the OP: if you decide to go the Lapua brass route I'd give Mile High a call. They're a great shop, with great people working there. I'm sure they'll get you set up right.
I'm trying to stock up on 260 stuff right now and it annoys me as well. Was going to try necking up 243 Hornady brass but most likely will just buy a couple hundred lapua 260s.
The problem isn't that Lapua is not in abundance these days. It's that you have to pay $1 for every single piece of brass.
Remington was half the price of Lapua and it is nowhere to be found.
Remington was half the price of Lapua and it is nowhere to be found.
For you guys still looking for Remington brass, if you're willing to remanufacture some rounds, redneckbmxer has 150+ rounds of Remington factory ammo for sale in the FS section at a decent price. You just have to shoot or pull the projectiles in there now. 
I picked up some Lapua .260 brass from ammunitionstore for 84 cents a piece.
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