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Which Caliber should I get??? Here is some info, you decide

ssatt68

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Which Caliber should I get??? Here is some info, you decide

This question is very common and understandable given that you are going to spend a bunch of cash on the build, then a bunch more in ammo or reloading components.

So, I was buying bullets for my match guns a few months ago 2k worth of 308 pills, 2k worth of 6.5 pills and 4k worth of 6mm and notice a huge difference in how many bullets I could buy for the $$$. I noticed one thing; 6mm bullets are a lot less expensive than 30 cal bullets.
If you are looking to get into competitive shooting and don’t reload you should. You will save an enormous amount of money reloading. You will have top of the line reloading equipment paid off in 6000 rounds. You will also become a more educated well rounded rifleman.

Why are the 6mm and 6.5s dominant? Bottom line up front
They cost about the same to shoot as 308 even with barrel changes and you will hit more targets (blasphemy!!!!). Stay with me just for a second

The information below was taken from multiple sources including 6mmBr, SH and from conversations with industry gurus.
308, 260 and most 6mm are within a few cents of each other per round fired including barrel changes.

6mm 105 Berger hybrids $.31 ea,
6.5mm 140 Berger hybrids $.39 ea,
308 185 Berger hybrids $.45 ea,

With powder, brass and primers all being relatively equal the only variables are the cost of the bullet and the cost of barrel changes. (cost of bullet was taken from the powder valley web site)(barrel cost is $500 installed)

6mm 6000 x .31 + 2 barrels @ $500 = $2860 47 cents per shot in bullet and barrel
6.5mm 6000 x .39 + 1.5 barrels @ $500 = $2590 43 cents per shot in bullet and barrel
308 6000 x .45 + 0 barrels = $2700 45 cents per shot in bullet and barrel

I know a lot of guys that get way more than 2000 rounds per barrel on their 6mm.

If you factor in brass to 10 firings, powder and primer per shot you are looking at about .70 cents per shot.

You can switch bullets around and change these numbers quite a bit. I took one bullet manufacturer and took the same bullet class in each caliber to make a point. You can get 308 175 SMKs for under 30 cents ea. You can also get 6mm 105 BTHP for 19 cents each.

Pick your poison, have fun and roll with it. Try not to agonize over your caliber selection, because you will eventually shoot out the one you have and can switch calibers as fast as your gun smith can spin on a new barrel. If you plan on shooting one of the calibers that burn out barrels quickly order 2-3 barrels at a time. You may wait up to 6 months for a barrel manufactures usually run barrels in batches. If you all ready have the barrels on hand it significantly reduces the wait time.
I smart guy told me once “buy every point you can afford, practice will make up the difference”
 
You're working with a hope and a prayer that your barrel life is that long and not taking into account the upper end components most reloaders will opt to work with.
 
So 2k on 6mm is on the low end for a barrel. I've got 2200 on my 6 Creedmore and it’s still going strong and 6k is average for a 308 barrel. Top of the line components? Bergers are top of the line bullets. Lapua brass for 308, 260 and 243 are within 2 cents of each other through 10 firings. The primers are exactly the same and the powder charge is within 2 grains of each other or less than 1/4 cent. So you can buy 175 SMK match ammo for $1.25 ea, you can still reload match ammo using the highest priced stuff out there purchased at the most expensive place and still save money. Again this is a same sized cartridge comparison. Additionally, the info is another way to look at the cost of each shot in respect to bullet and barrel.
 
Scott that's a great example for anyone weighing out what they want especially for a match rifle.
Looking at the top places at any match the 6 and 6.5's rule the top spots and it really does come down to which of the two you want to roll with.

I chose the 6.5x47 on my RBros for match shooting hoping to get a little more barrel life over the 6 or 243's. In the last 6 months I've already got over 1,100 round on it from matches and its still going strong. We'll see how far it goes before I say the 6.5's will last longer ;)

The 6's do always sit in the back of your mind though, knowing the advantages they have even over the 6.5 but it really is a trade off for getting a few more miles out of a barrel before having to change it out again.

Good info and thanks for posting it up.
 
I have come to two conclusions.

1. You have WAY to much time on your hands.

2. Shoot the caliber you like, not the one that saves you the most money.
 
I have come to two conclusions.

1. You have WAY to much time on your hands.

2. Shoot the caliber you like, not the one that saves you the most money.

Who says the two ^#2^ are mutually exclusive? If you can get a competitive caliber that also allows you to shoot more for the same $$ - sounds like a good plan...
 
Thank you for this post!! I'm very new to competitive shooting -- in fact, I'm still putting together my first rifle. I was originally steered toward .308, particularly for the availability of ammo. But since I'm ultimately interested in shooting out to 1,000 yards I've come to learn 6mm or 6.5mm are really more suited to this range. (Not that .308 can't reach those distances, just that the other two are better at it.) I've got some funds now and would like to "grow into the potential of my rifle" rather than buy cheap now and then replace down the line when I "outgrow" it. So your post confirms to me I really want to be at 6.5mm and helps justify the "perceived" additional cost, which as you've explained once you factor in *all* of the factors is really not a reality. Again, THANK YOU.
 
Useful set of numbers ssatt68. I've been thinking I might go with a 6.5mm when I switch up from a 5r to a custom gun. Yet another reason to do so.