• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Which Redding S type die set 300 PRC

ck1a

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 11, 2021
125
33
Hattiesburg, MS, USA
I have been loading 9mm for years, but new to rifle. I am going back and re-reading the front part of the manual again, as it has been 8 years. I plan on loading 300 PRC using Redding S type Dies on a Lock N Load (for now). I don't have the time or desire to become an F shooter, but would like to load good rounds to hit at 1000. If it really, really matters, I'll get the most expensive set of the 4, if not, I have a lot more reloading stuff where I can put the money. Considering, least $ to most $:

Redding 78776, Type S Bushing Neck 3 Dies set. One piece doesn't have the tuner on top
Redding 36776 Type S Match Full Length 2 Die Set. Only 2 dies. One has regular tuner, the other has a large dial with a micrometer type tuner
Redding 38776, Type S Match Neck 3 Dies set. One piece does not have a tuner, one has a large dial tuner with micrometer readings on it
Redding 60776 Tye3 S Elite Bushing 3 die set. Two dies have a standard tuner, and one has a micrometer type dial.

I plan on manually decapping.

1) In the Full Length 2 die set, which one is missing?
2) On the ones without a tuner at the top, why doesn't it have a tuner?
3) The BIG ONE. Having a little information on my goals, and my setup, which set would you recommend, without going overboard?

You guys have always been very helpful. Thank you.
 
1) That's what I use ... the "Neck-Only" die is the one missing, because you don't need it with the FL Bushing Die. The other included die is obviously the seating die.
2) No need for a "tuner" on the Bushing Die.
3) You're on the right track. That's a high quality die set.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ck1a
One note ... you "tune" the FL die for shoulder bump, with the competition shell-holder set.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ck1a
1) That's what I use ... the "Neck-Only" die is the one missing, because you don't need it with the FL Bushing Die. The other included die is obviously the seating die.
2) No need for a "tuner" on the Bushing Die.
3) You're on the right track. That's a high quality die set.
Thank you. I would have purchased the wrong set. Now to get the bushings for my brass. I've got Lapua on order, but who knows when it will come in to measure it. And I purchased 40 Hornady rounds, just to have something to shoot, and then have some brass to load.
 
Thank you. I would have purchased the wrong set. Now to get the bushings for my brass. I've got Lapua on order, but who knows when it will come in to measure it. And I purchased 40 Hornady rounds, just to have something to shoot, and then have some brass to load.
Use a caliper to measure the outside diameter of a loaded round, then subtract .001 and .002 from that diameter ... and buy those two sized bushings from the Type-S FL die. Start with the .001 and see how snug the bullet is and how tight your groups are. Use the .002 if you feel like you want a neck tension comparison, or if the .001 is too loose. Hope this advice helps.
 
Use a caliper to measure the outside diameter of a loaded round, then subtract .001 and .002 from that diameter ... and buy those two sized bushings from the Type-S FL die. Start with the .001 and see how snug the bullet is and how tight your groups are. Use the .002 if you feel like you want a neck tension comparison, or if the .001 is too loose. Hope this advice helps.
Thank you for that information.