• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

which / what 6.5 PRC dies?

davsco

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 1, 2014
2,128
1,685
NoVa
brand new to reloading with a 6.5 PRC inbound. i like the rcbs competition seater dies (my first dies are .223 and that works real nice). but what other die(s) do i need for resizing etc? using a redding t7 turret press. type s, neck, bushing, full length, etc all that stuff is greek to me.
 
Part of what die you get will depend on what you are doing and how much work you are willing to put into this gun. Hunting gun? Just get a normal full length die. Long range precision? Might look at a type s full length bushing die. Skip the neck dies, there is an application for them but not this.
 
I'm a Newbie too, but learning fast. One of my early learnings was ... buy a full-size bushing die (like the Redding S) and a good seating die (like the Redding Competition). Skip the 3-die sets. A neck-only die isn't useful, at least for me.
 
To keep it simple buy a quality FL no n-bushing die, always full length size your brass every time......you can do that two ways, you can send fired brass and have someone make a die specific to your gun or get a regular die and go on with life and you probably won’t have runout issues right out of the gate.

I’ve had issues with bushing dies inducing runout in the brass that then equates to bullet runout, but that was in a saami spec chamber and not in a tight neck chamber where you have to turn necks......idk I may need to learn more on how to size with a type s die better but there’s so many variables with bushings.......bushings can be made where they’re not true, not centered with the rest of the bushing, you may have to size multiple times with multiple bushings so you don’t induce runout by going to far in one pass, bushing dies won’t size all the way to the shoulder......the list goes on. It has been proven that a regular FL die has produced less runout than bushing dies and you could have more money in bushing dies by time you buy bushings that work well. Don’t even look at a neck die, not worth it.

For most of my precision reloading I use forester dies with a micrometer seating die......might get a custom die down the road for it and it will probably be a Hornady custom die. Each to their own on dies, but definitely get a micrometer seating die.
 
Last edited:
Everyone I know swears on Redding type s fl bushing dies. Seater I think matters less. But also as stated, budget is determined by use
 
an extra $100 on a set of dies won't make or break. we're prob going to start off with hornady eld-x ammo and then use that brass to reload. this is primarily hunting but sure would be nice to have something easily sub-moa capable out 500 yds or so. more is always better, right...

what's the good and bad on these:
RCBS - MATCHMASTER COMPETITION FULL LENGTH BUSHING DIE SETS


The Full length sizing die utilizes RCBS’s precision-machined neck bushings to put the perfect amount of neck tension on each round. The titanium nitride coated expander offers silky-smooth case extraction and reduced brass build up on the expander both of which help reduce the amount of stretch on the case neck.

some above are saying no neck/bushing and others are saying yes (i think...).
 
an extra $100 on a set of dies won't make or break. we're prob going to start off with hornady eld-x ammo and then use that brass to reload. this is primarily hunting but sure would be nice to have something easily sub-moa capable out 500 yds or so. more is always better, right...

what's the good and bad on these:
RCBS - MATCHMASTER COMPETITION FULL LENGTH BUSHING DIE SETS


The Full length sizing die utilizes RCBS’s precision-machined neck bushings to put the perfect amount of neck tension on each round. The titanium nitride coated expander offers silky-smooth case extraction and reduced brass build up on the expander both of which help reduce the amount of stretch on the case neck.

some above are saying no neck/bushing and others are saying yes (i think...).
I don’t have experience with these but most everyone, I included take the expanders/sizer stem out of the sizing dies. So, we size and then come back with a expander mandrel (either a Sinclair, 21 century, whoever else’s or in my case I use a Kenny Porter die) to size the id of the case mouth to have a uniform id on each and every case and also that sets the neck tension. Some say regular dies “overwork” the brass and they probably do but I neck turn, use a mandrel and anneal EVERY TIME so I’m not concerned.
 
New to reloading my self. I haven't loaded anything yet with my Matchmaster dies. (Can't load anything without primers.) I bought 3 sets in 6.5CM, 300WSM, and 30-06. I went with Redding TiN bushings. I found even measuring loaded ammo, I was off with the sizes I needed initially when sizing. You are most likely going to buy at least three bushings, maybe 4 bushings to cover your possible brass thicknesses anyways. I went ahead and bought .332 through .337 for my 30 caliber, and .287 and .288 for 6.5CM, and waiting for a .289 to come in stock at the two places I have been using.

RCBS directions say that you should only use the expander on new virgin brass. Which makes sense as the purpose of bushings is to not overwork your brass. They include another decapper retaining pin or a whole other stem depending on your caliber. I just removed mine completely as I deprime in another step. You can still oversize slightly and use the expander if you want I guess. Then again, I have no idea what I am truly doing yet. I'm just reading and researching and absorbing what I can as I sift through the frivolous shit.
Also, now that I think about it, does the neck get thinner as you shoot and trim? Something more to research!