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Who has upgraded their 10/22?

Franko

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May 19, 2018
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Southern California
I own a 10/22 that I don't shoot because it's not particularly accurate. Usually I would sell the gun in this situation, but will not because I inherited it from my grandfather. I am now looking into upgrading the heck out of it to make it into a super accurate lightweight plinker (he used it to hunt squirrels so I want to be true to what the gun was used for by him) . Here are my questions:

  1. Kidd (ultra lightweight or lightweight) or Volquartsen (carbon fiber barrel) or something else?
  2. I am looking at a KRG Bravo stock, is there anything else I should be considering?
  3. I expect to upgrade most of the Ruger parts to Kidd parts. Are there any parts made by Volquartsen (or anyone else) that are better than the Kidd version that I should be considering?
Thanks all.
 
Check Connecticut Precision Chambering. I have not used him yet, but he seems to have a good reputation. That's the route I would go if you want to keep it mostly original for sentimental reasons.
I have a Feddersen barrel on mine, in an Archangel stock. Shoots about 1.25 MOA at 100 yards, with all stock internals and a stock trigger. I can't justify to myself to spend a ton of money on a 10/22. If I was to build a high end 10/22-based rifle, I would start from scratch
 
Nobody has ever upgraded their 10/22…It’s absolutely perfect right out of the box, with the shitty pine tree stock, and the pencil barrel with iron sights. How dare you besmirch the pure reputation of the illustrious 10/22 with such flagrant eccentricities…

By now, you should realize I’m being a smartass, because you asked a stupid question. Almost every human being on earth has modified their 10/22. 😂

The only things factory left in mine are the receiver housing & bolt body. Everything else is Valquartsen…

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I have a Brimstone modded factory trigger, Kidd bolt/handle/rod/spring kit and Feddersen 12.5" on my steel challenge rifle. Haven't seen what it will do for groups at distance yet but it is lots of fun for SC.

I've had several of the BS modded triggers, great upgrade if you don't want to spend Kidd money.
 
Upgrade a 10/22 ? Is there even things on the market to aid one in doing so?

Seriously two “on the cheap” not Kidd money upgrades- the drop in Ruger BX trigger and Magpul hunter stock. Not a coon or squirrels in the adjoining 5 counties that don’t fear our “working grade “ 10/22s so equipped.
I did actually miss a give me shot at a treed coon some time ago- and my dog barked his ass off at me like saying in dog “how the hell did you miss , after I did all that hard work?”
 
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Of course upgrade it with Kidd trigger, bolt and barrel. I just couldn't put all those good parts into a stock receiver so I made one using stainless steel. Tack driver using Eley Tenex.
Understand completely but I have to keep something of the original to maintain a connection to my grandfather. Also, will I have to do anything to get it to work with the match grade ammo (e.g., Tenex)? One of my worries was it might need a bit more "oomph" to cycle than the subsonic match grade stuff can provide.
 
Understand completely but I have to keep something of the original to maintain a connection to my grandfather. Also, will I have to do anything to get it to work with the match grade ammo (e.g., Tenex)? One of my worries was it might need a bit more "oomph" to cycle than the subsonic match grade stuff can provide.
Kidd parts alone will increase the accuracy but the ammo is another key factor.
 
You can swap in a better barrel using an allen wrench. A better trigger will help ALOT too.
Have fun with it !
DannG
This. A Kidd trigger and IBI barrel. Fast, easy, no cheap. Of fuck around with a lot of expensive parts that change very little down range.
 
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This is my standard answer before recommending anyone spend any money:

What are some absolute “must have” 10/22 mods?
Barrel.
Scope. Quality mount and rings.

Everything else can be done by modifying existing parts, with the exception of a few pins fabricated from drill rod or purchased, a few odd springs, and a piece of rubber/nylon/polybutylene rod.

You can headspace the bolt, pin the firing pin, tune the tip, tune the extractor, radius and smooth the bolt's rear, and polish the bearing surfaces. Polish the charging handle contact points and spring strut.

You can bed the scope rail to the receiver, polish the bolt contact areas, drill the receiver rear for a cleaning rod, replace the recoil pin with a synthetic alternative, bed the barrel tenon to the receiver.

You can open up the factory stock's barrel channel, add an epoxy barrel support pad, bed the receiver rear, pillar bed the take down screw, modify the stocks exterior to better fit the shooter.

You can replace all pins for oversized ones which precisely fit the trigger group parts. Add a sear engagement limiter, disconnector limiter, either a longer trigger return plunger to act as a stop, or tap the trigger for an over travel stop. Polish all contact and bearing surfaces and struts, replace the trigger return and disconnector springs with lighter ones, modify the bolt stop, add an extension for the mag release if desired, precisely fit the sear nose for positive safety function.

Use moly grease for loaded pressure points, light oil for high speed, bearing surfaces.

Buy good ammo.
 
I wanted an accurate rimfire. I really wanted a bolt gun but had a 10/22 laying around so I went down the rabbit hole. Kidd barrel, Brimstone trigger job, KRG Bravo, Athlon Helos, cheap ass bipod. Not done yet. Will have Kidd trigger group etc. Got close to $1500 in it.😳 I love it.😂
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Before you go down the road of changing/swapping out parts, look into the Waltz die, it can make a so so RF rifle better, or good. RF ammo is so lot dependent that it takes a lot of time, effort and $$ . The Waltz die will adjust the RF ammo to better fit the chamber you have on the current gun that you want to "be true" too.

I've used a Waltz die on some Norma TAC black box ammo that shot just so so in one 10/22 I have with Feddersen barrel and BX trigger, after finding the sweet spot for the ammo/die setting, it will put 6 out of 10 inside a dime at 50 yds.
 
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I own a 10/22 that I don't shoot because it's not particularly accurate. Usually I would sell the gun in this situation, but will not because I inherited it from my grandfather. I am now looking into upgrading the heck out of it to make it into a super accurate lightweight plinker (he used it to hunt squirrels so I want to be true to what the gun was used for by him) . Here are my questions:

  1. Kidd (ultra lightweight or lightweight) or Volquartsen (carbon fiber barrel) or something else?
  2. I am looking at a KRG Bravo stock, is there anything else I should be considering?
  3. I expect to upgrade most of the Ruger parts to Kidd parts. Are there any parts made by Volquartsen (or anyone else) that are better than the Kidd version that I should be considering?
Thanks all.


Just skip that and buy my 10/22. I need to get rid of it so I can have a spot in the safe for a .22 bolt gun
 
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View attachment 8043645

Of course upgrade it with Kidd trigger, bolt and barrel. I just couldn't put all those good parts into a stock receiver so I made one using stainless steel. Tack driver using Eley Tenex.
Damn! With a thread-on barrel! I’d love to see how that thing will shoot with a real Proof wrapped (not sleeved) carbon fiber barrel.
 
I own a 10/22 that I don't shoot because it's not particularly accurate. Usually I would sell the gun in this situation, but will not because I inherited it from my grandfather. I am now looking into upgrading the heck out of it to make it into a super accurate lightweight plinker (he used it to hunt squirrels so I want to be true to what the gun was used for by him) . Here are my questions:

  1. Kidd (ultra lightweight or lightweight) or Volquartsen (carbon fiber barrel) or something else?
  2. I am looking at a KRG Bravo stock, is there anything else I should be considering?
  3. I expect to upgrade most of the Ruger parts to Kidd parts. Are there any parts made by Volquartsen (or anyone else) that are better than the Kidd version that I should be considering?
Thanks all.
If it was me, I would keep your Grandfather's gun as is. The Bravo is a great chassic but it is not a good carry gun for squirrels. Go on Kidd's site and price out a Supergrade barreled action. The Kidd 2 stage trigger is the main cost, but is the best 10-22 trigger made. If you still want to build, go all Kidd. Check Kidd's prices before doing all that to your gun.
 
I got a barreled action that had a green mountain 20” barrel already installed from a buddy of mine and dropped it in a krg bravo and put a bx trigger in it so my kiddo could have a rifle to learn on.

I have found myself taking it to the range more than a lot of my other rifles because it’s so easy to shoot and gets way better groups than it deserves to for how much i have into it.
 
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I agree with some others here. Keep the 10/22 stock for sentimental reasons and go buy a Kidd Supergrade with a 16” ultra lightweight barrel. I have one and it’s one of my most favorite guns.

Many people have spent Supergrade money upgrading their 10/22 and wind up with a decent gun with teething problems.

But if it’s a fun project type of deal, have at it. You’ll learn stuff.
 
This started out as a basic wood stocked 18" carbine. Like you, I wasn't impressed with the accuracy.....good enough for plinking, and it did get me a few Appleseed scores in the mid-230s, but compared to any of my other rifles, it wasn't up to snuff.

VQ tensioned carbon fiber barrel, Timney Calvin Elite trigger, KRG Bravo chassis and a few other doodads. Everything was purchased on Ebay a little at a time over a few months. Now this little 10/22 can almost keep up with my B14R.

I started with a stainless heavy barrel and a Victor Titan stock--made it heavier than I wanted for the kind of shooting I do. The KRG and VQ barrel shaved a couple of pounds--in it's current configuration, it's not much heavier than the original setup.

Make grandpa happy that you're using the rifle he left you--it's not like 10/22s are difficult to work on, and anything that you replace on them can always put it back to original. I doubt that it took me more than an hour to swap barrels, trigger and stock on mine and I still have all the original parts in a box.

1022.VQ.jpg
 
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I've built three from parts, only ruger part is the trigger which has been cleaned up. You can go wild but I'd suggest trying a barrel first and send the trigger to brimstone to make it better. You'll have most of what you need right there for not a whole lot of money. Two have green mountain barrels, one Feddersen. The GM barrels shoot just as good as the Feddersen. With CCI SV they will shoot one hole at 25 and be around 1 inch groups at 100. They shoot just as good as my B14R out to 200 with the same ammo. I built two alike for my nephews.
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10/22 donors are cheap, I know you didn't ask, but as posted before, leave your grandfather's rifle alone. Touch what he touched see the sights he saw, keep that connection. What is your purpose for the rifle? The reason I ask is accurate is relative, my two favorite two 10/22 are completely different but both "accurate" one weighs 2 pounds and the other 10 pounds or so . They both have completely different jobs.
 
I had a stick 10/22 that I considered upgrading with Kidd parts. After looking at the site and mulling it over, I bought a Kidd supergrade rifle exactly as I wanted it.

Then I upgraded the 10/22, though with a tacsol barrel. It’s not quite as accurate as the Kidd, but it’s not far behind either.
 
IMHO the 10-22 exists to be upgraded. It is built and leaves the factory and sold to customers that the first thing they do is start tossing parts at it. I can tell you for a fact if you call Ruger customer service they will be shocked if you are using Ruger factory parts. They are built the the very bottom value of what is called "quality". Who cares if it has a crappy barrel, they will replace it anyway, and out it goes.

Your grandfathers gun, in my eye it will no longer be your grandfathers gun if you start changing parts on it. It is family history, if you want an accurate rimfire there are a great many out there. If you want to play pretend gunsmith buy yourself another 1022, they are like blades of grass, everywhere and not one thing special about them.

I will dawn a fire proof suit now and go hide somewhere.
 
No experience myself with a 10/22(yet), but one of my friends has one and bought one for his son. He has done so many upgrades that he has enough parts to build at least 3 others if he had some extra receivers
 
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I’m going to recruit my dad to start buying 10/22 stuff for my sons soon. I’ll definitely keep these in mind, thanks.

I used JWH bolts on the rifles I built for my nephews, they have their initials on them, pic is above. Those stocks worked well, pretty sure I got them on Ebay. I added a brass bolt that indexed with the rear cleaning hole in the receivers and added pillars when I built them. Now I'd probably get the titan or Bravo stock. The titan indexes with the trigger group to act as a second anchor. With a wood stock you can always cut it down if needed. I found a couple sites selling used receivers, both bare and complete. For a kids build these would be fine, polish up the stock bolts and the inside of the receiver, send the triggers to Brimstone to clean up and and a buy a Green Mountain barrel when they're on sale. You can go hog wild but it's not necessary. A barrel and better trigger gets you most of the way there.
 
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Check Connecticut Precision Chambering. I have not used him yet, but he seems to have a good reputation. That's the route I would go if you want to keep it mostly original for sentimental reasons.
I have a Feddersen barrel on mine, in an Archangel stock. Shoots about 1.25 MOA at 100 yards, with all stock internals and a stock trigger. I can't justify to myself to spend a ton of money on a 10/22. If I was to build a high end 10/22-based rifle, I would start from scratch
I have and it is worth it. His page will tell you what he does.
 
I used JWH bolts on the rifles I built for my nephews, they have their initials on them, pic is above. Those stocks worked well, pretty sure I got them on Ebay. I added a brass bolt that indexed with the rear cleaning hole in the receivers and added pillars when I built them. Now I'd probably get the titan or Bravo stock. The titan indexes with the trigger group to act as a second anchor. With a wood stock you can always cut it down if needed. I found a couple sites selling used receivers, both bare and complete. For a kids build these would be fine, polish up the stock bolts and the inside of the receiver, send the triggers to Brimstone to clean up and and a buy a Green Mountain barrel when they're on sale. You can go hog wild but it's not necessary. A barrel and better trigger gets you most of the way there.
Awesome info, thanks
 
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If you’re really want to upgrade, skip to the front of the line and buy the Kidd trigger group.Save some money doing it too. You know you’ll buy one eventually. Don’t piss your funds on ‘cheap’ imitations and temporary fixes. Just rip off the band aid already.
 
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What ammo have you tested and what are your expectations? I have found 10/22 usually shoot CCI SV to an acceptable accuracy standard for most people. Squirrels at 100 yards is easily done with a good scope and dope. Many of the comments here are from people chasing 100 yard sub MOA comp setups.
 
I had Kidd build basically what you were looking to do in your original post, almost all Kidd parts including their ultra lightweight barrel. I used a Brimstone tuned factory trigger to keep the cost somewhat in check. It wears a Vortex PST 1-6 and is about perfect for a walking around small game rifle.

I've gotten good results with Eley Contact and semi-auto benchrest which is most of what I've shot through the rifle so far. Contact tightened up noticeably when I shot it through my suppressor with this rifle. Overall, it's kept everything I've shot through it from SK, Lapua and Eley in the .65" or better range at 50. From my sample of one, I'd expect you could pretty easily find ammo that will shoot to 1/2" (or better) at 50 yards. Center-X shot in the mid to high .3"s for the few groups I shot with it. I really couldn't be happier with this setup for what I wanted out of the rifle when I started spec'ing it out.

Another consideration if you're going to build from the ground up would be using Kidd's proprietary Supergrade receiver and barrel, which they guarantee to shoot 1/2" even in the ultralight weight barrel. I would have gone that route if I was ever going to use any more magnification than the 1-6 I put on this Kidd rifle. I'll do a heavy barrel match type rifle eventually and will definitely go Supergrade on that one to give me some added flexibility.

I had a Tactical Solutions rifle that my wife forcefully adopted after I made the mistake of letting her shoot it. TacSol would be another decent option to consider, but my Kidd outshoots the TacSol for the same or less money. The Kidd is also less ammo sensitive from the limited testing I've done so far. The TacSol shoots the same selection of Eley and SK to between .6-.8" and it's not quite as consistent from group to group. It takes Center-X to get into the .5"s at 50 and just under 1.5" at 100.
 
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I have two of them that I have done 100% of the work on. All that remains Ruger is the receiver and the bolt assembly and I trued and head spaced the bolts. Truthfully if some one were to hand me a brand new 10/22 and say "It's yours as long as you don't change in any way" I would hand it back and reply "Thanks, but no".
 
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I own a 10/22 that I don't shoot because it's not particularly accurate. Usually I would sell the gun in this situation, but will not because I inherited it from my grandfather. I am now looking into upgrading the heck out of it to make it into a super accurate lightweight plinker (he used it to hunt squirrels so I want to be true to what the gun was used for by him) . Here are my questions:

  1. Kidd (ultra lightweight or lightweight) or Volquartsen (carbon fiber barrel) or something else?
  2. I am looking at a KRG Bravo stock, is there anything else I should be considering?
  3. I expect to upgrade most of the Ruger parts to Kidd parts. Are there any parts made by Volquartsen (or anyone else) that are better than the Kidd version that I should be considering?
Thanks all.
If your gonna use for hunting purposes I wouldn’t go with krg stock. I’d go with the magpul Hunter. Better for hunting & half price. Still a nice stock though. Only other upgrade really (needed) is better trigger & light accurate barrel. I went with 20” Green Mountain heavy barrel but I still squirrel hunt wit it. But it’s stupid accurate for the little money I spent. 5shot group at 50yds.
I own a 10/22 that I don't shoot because it's not particularly accurate. Usually I would sell the gun in this situation, but will not because I inherited it from my grandfather. I am now looking into upgrading the heck out of it to make it into a super accurate lightweight plinker (he used it to hunt squirrels so I want to be true to what the gun was used for by him) . Here are my questions:

  1. Kidd (ultra lightweight or lightweight) or Volquartsen (carbon fiber barrel) or something else?
  2. I am looking at a KRG Bravo stock, is there anything else I should be considering?
  3. I expect to upgrade most of the Ruger parts to Kidd parts. Are there any parts made by Volquartsen (or anyone else) that are better than the Kidd version that I should be considering?
Thanks all.
 

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I have decided to keep it as is for sentimental value and as a general purpose beater for friends and family. I'll just save up some money and go with a full Kidd build without messing around with "mix and match".

Thanks for the help all.
Upgraded to a KIDD Supergrade from a BXR and could not be happier. With Eley Match it is every bit as accurate as my CZ bolt guns.

OFG
 
Truthfully if some one were to hand me a brand new 10/22 and say "It's yours as long as you don't change in any way" I would hand it back and reply "Thanks, but no".
I have a love hate relationship with 10/22's. I have only bought target models in diff configs and all could use some help, lol.
Until one day I needed a 10/22 to shoot with the kid next door. I walked into a LGS and found a Ruger Race Rifle, circa 2007, SOB, this thing shoots and runs. Other than an extended mag release, I am not touching it, trigger was good, shoots cheap ammo well. I won't even test target ammo in it, I don't need another 22 that shoots target grade ammo. Actually, I want 1 more 10/22 that shoots comparable, I bought a dueling tree and shooting Center X at it is a good way to go broke.
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I don't have a 10/22, but sort of want to build one just to try this:


Quote from site:

OUR PROPRIETARY MATCH CHAMBER & ADVANCED BARREL TECHNOLOGY PROVIDE:

UNPARALLELED ACCURACY GUARANTEED (Proprietary chamber swages the 22 cal projectile down to 20 cal forcing better lands and groove engagement.)

INCREASED WEAPON RELIABILITY/FUNCTION ESPECIALLY WITH LOW PRESSURE/BUDGET FRIENDLY AMMO

22 CAL PROJECTILE EXITS THE MUZZLE AS A 20 CAL PROJECTILE GIVING IMPROVED PROJECTILE BALLISTIC COEFFICIENCY & PENETRATION !

HIGHER ENERGY LEVELS AT LONGER RANGES !

ABOVE NOTED IMPROVEMENTS ARE GAINED USING STANDARD .22 LR AMMO!
 
Another old guy here that plans on a 10/22 after my current Bergara B14R project is finished.
In all of the decades I have owned guns I have never owned a 10/22.
Actually the only 22lr semi auto rifle I have ever owned is a Marlin 60 which I have had for decades and which I still own today.

I have been doing a ton of research and pricing parts and different options for a 10/22 build and in the end I keep coming back it just makes more sense to just go ahead and buy the complete Kidd Super Grade barreled action with their bolt and trigger and be done with it.

When you compare what the difference in price ends up being if you pretty much want to be sure of having an accurate 10/22 with no fuss buying the Kidd is a no brainer.
Not to mention if you ever want to sell it a Kidd Super Grade in a nice stock or chassis system will surely hold its value of what was initially invested better than a hodge podge of 10/22 parts you assembled at home.