This was posted elsewhere, but I didn't want to hijack that thread, so here we go: Like the title says, will this Bergara B14R trigger mod work for the BMR?
- Thread starter sparkyv
- Start date
Yes.
12oz trigger on my BMR for less than $10.
A long thread about it here;
www.rimfirecentral.com
12oz trigger on my BMR for less than $10.
A long thread about it here;
Bergara BMR Easy Trigger Mod
Bergara BMR Trigger Mod same as B14R Only factory trigger adjustment is for the spring tension. So I just backed it off to minimum "screw in front of trigger". There was no factory sear adjustment, but there is a pilot hole pre drilled in the back of the trigger group that conveniently lines...
www.rimfirecentral.com 
leave it out, not needed, unless you want a trigger pull heavier than about 2 1/2 lbs.. Mine was out when I opened the box, screw was freely moving around the box.
I was worried that there was a spring there that might have fell out. I didn't know that you could leave it out.
Nothing else fell out, the internal spring is captured. There is a thread with pics of the trigger with the side plate removed so you can fully understand, just don't remember which one, maybe in the Bergara trigger mod thread. You are good to go.
The factory spring that is in the front lower corner makes the trigger heavier. It really doesn't matter if it fell out.
The original trigger mod was to tap out the two existing holes for a #4-40 set screw and I thought that was short sighted.
All that does is reduce the sear engagement to the point that they are riding on the radii. See the first image for example.
I thought a much better way to lighten the trigger was to use a long nose spring plunger. It is basically a set screw with a
nose that extends about .075" of an inch. I did my trigger and it worked great. I had good sear engagement and a trigger
weight of 11 ounces. It worked exactly as I thought it should. The #6-32 was fine even though it had about .003" of an inch
interference with the spring.
I wanted to do more so I installed a #8-32 plunger. Images #3 and 4 are the #8-32. The threads broke out into the spring
pocket hole and the threads had to be removed from the plunger as shown.
AZ DAN, above had done his trigger and was having problems. I went over everything i could imagine that he could have
done wrong. I really thought he did something wrong or he wasn't communicating something clearly. The trigger is
after all a simple teeter-tooter. After some weeks I bought a new B14R unit and dit the mod to it. I was shocked to
see that my second trigger didn't work like my first one.
I have yet to determine the cause of the trigger SNAFFU so I cant recommend any mod be done.
I would NEVER use the #4-40 mod because I feel it is dangerous. As soon as someone can explain to me how reducing the
contact area of the sears reduces the friction thereby lightening the trigger, I'm happy to listen. I will however start by reminding
you that friction is independent of surface area. I think it's Newtons third rule and I have posted it in prior posts.
You could do the #6-32 heavy plunger but it may not work like my first one did. My Jewell HVR is nice but I'm going to get a B&A.
The original trigger mod was to tap out the two existing holes for a #4-40 set screw and I thought that was short sighted.
All that does is reduce the sear engagement to the point that they are riding on the radii. See the first image for example.
I thought a much better way to lighten the trigger was to use a long nose spring plunger. It is basically a set screw with a
nose that extends about .075" of an inch. I did my trigger and it worked great. I had good sear engagement and a trigger
weight of 11 ounces. It worked exactly as I thought it should. The #6-32 was fine even though it had about .003" of an inch
interference with the spring.
I wanted to do more so I installed a #8-32 plunger. Images #3 and 4 are the #8-32. The threads broke out into the spring
pocket hole and the threads had to be removed from the plunger as shown.
AZ DAN, above had done his trigger and was having problems. I went over everything i could imagine that he could have
done wrong. I really thought he did something wrong or he wasn't communicating something clearly. The trigger is
after all a simple teeter-tooter. After some weeks I bought a new B14R unit and dit the mod to it. I was shocked to
see that my second trigger didn't work like my first one.
I have yet to determine the cause of the trigger SNAFFU so I cant recommend any mod be done.
I would NEVER use the #4-40 mod because I feel it is dangerous. As soon as someone can explain to me how reducing the
contact area of the sears reduces the friction thereby lightening the trigger, I'm happy to listen. I will however start by reminding
you that friction is independent of surface area. I think it's Newtons third rule and I have posted it in prior posts.
You could do the #6-32 heavy plunger but it may not work like my first one did. My Jewell HVR is nice but I'm going to get a B&A.
