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year old processed brass mixed with newly processed? (annealing, sizing, etc)

Winny94

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  • Nov 19, 2013
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    I have half of batch of brass that I fully processed over a year ago that just needs a mandrel ran through the neck and I want to mix it with with the rest of the brass that I'll process this weekend.
    What I'm wondering is should I do anything to fully processed half (i.e re anneal, resize, etc), or is mandreling it enough to keep it consistent with the newly processed stuff?

    This is well formed brass on its 9th firing, but because life got busy, it's in 2 phases separated by a year's time. Not a competition cartridge, but a long range hunting round.
     
    If it will make you feel better, some of the .44 magnum brass I am using was purchased in the 1970’s. (Caveat: this brass was always used in medium loads)

    Second thought. Miss a target in competition, might lose a few dollars in prize money. Miss a deer/antelope/elk in a very expensive hunt, you will lose more than a few dollars. I would use only the very best brass and handloading for hunting. Often, a fellow only gets one shot at that trophy. Better to spend a few dollars now, than watch next years meat / bragging rights / possibly Boone and Crocket record book placement bound over the hill while your bullet killed already dead dirt.
     
    I have half of batch of brass that I fully processed over a year ago that just needs a mandrel ran through the neck and I want to mix it with with the rest of the brass that I'll process this weekend.
    What I'm wondering is should I do anything to fully processed half (i.e re anneal, resize, etc), or is mandreling it enough to keep it consistent with the newly processed stuff?

    This is well formed brass on its 9th firing, but because life got busy, it's in 2 phases separated by a year's time. Not a competition cartridge, but a long range hunting round.

    I would keep it separate. Sized brass that has been sitting for a year will prolly produce different bullet grip than brass you just sized eventho you mandrel both.
     
    If it will make you feel better, some of the .44 magnum brass I am using was purchased in the 1970’s. (Caveat: this brass was always used in medium loads)

    Second thought. Miss a target in competition, might lose a few dollars in prize money. Miss a deer/antelope/elk in a very expensive hunt, you will lose more than a few dollars. I would use only the very best brass and handloading for hunting. Often, a fellow only gets one shot at that trophy. Better to spend a few dollars now, than watch next years meat / bragging rights / possibly Boone and Crocket record book placement bound over the hill while your bullet killed already dead dirt.
    Saving money has zero influence on the decision here.
     
    Interesting question here.

    If it were me I would do the comparison testing only because I enjoy comparing that stuff.
    To take a stab at answering your question directly I would ask you what "long distance hunting" is to you.
    60 yards or 4000...
    Just apply the sicenerios into a BC and see what accuracy is acceptable for your needs.
    If they were a known good load I can't imagine them being more than 50fps spread. (With cold bore)
    Would that velocity change work for your distance??
    Post with what you end up doing.
    Thanks!
     
    Having a hard time with this. Do you think the brass shrinks or softens just by sitting?

    What would be the mechanism for that?


    I would keep it separate. Sized brass that has been sitting for a year will prolly produce different bullet grip than brass you just sized eventho you mandrel both.
     
    If it's the same lot, roll on!

    If it's different lots, weight check it and do as corndogs suggested by double checking loads for velocity, POI, etc. If it's same/same rock and roll.
     
    Having a hard time with this. Do you think the brass shrinks or softens just by sitting?

    What would be the mechanism for that?

    Creep and/or oxidation/surface finish

    I very seriously doubt 1 year is enough time to make a sizable difference. 10-50 years... meh maybe maybe not.
     
    Hopefully a Benchrester doesn't read your post... A hand likely will appear from your screen and slap you down for even the mention of mixing ANYTHING.
     
    Having a hard time with this. Do you think the brass shrinks or softens just by sitting?

    What would be the mechanism for that?

    Springback. This is 9x fired brass. The first batch has had a year to sit and change shape. The new batch has not. There is no reason to mix the brass. Maintain 2 batches. Shoot one, then the other. Why induce potential fliers when you don’t have to?
     
    Springback. This is 9x fired brass. The first batch has had a year to sit and change shape. The new batch has not. There is no reason to mix the brass. Maintain 2 batches. Shoot one, then the other. Why induce potential fliers when you don’t have to?
    And this is why the original question is so interesting.
    Springback is a perpetually happening occurance according to your statement?
    Run a mandrel in, remove it and you get your initial springback. Leave the case for a year and the diameter will continue to become smaller?
     
    I’m not saying spring back is a continuous process. It’s stops at some point. But there is a difference between freshly sized brass and year old brass.

    The neck is not the only thing affecting bullet pull. The shoulder has a say in it as well.
     
    Movement after initial springback would be from creep.

    Not likely to be an issue. It would require you to know the internal stress state of the brass after sizing and springback to start to take a stab at how long it would take a measurable change to take place, but the scale in the charts provided in the link above make me think... no, not likely. :)

    Might be a good one to send some cases to someone with that new AMP press to see if they measure any different.
     
    Here's a novel idea.
    Take all of it and run it back through your die and start over.
    If they are primed, remove the decapping pin.


    Done?

    Now they are all the same again.

    Unfounded worries are over.
     
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    I’m not saying spring back is a continuous process. It’s stops at some point. But there is a difference between freshly sized brass and year old brass.

    The neck is not the only thing affecting bullet pull. The shoulder has a say in it as well.
    what is that difference? Can you quantify it?
     
    what is that difference? Can you quantify it?
    Have you done any testing to see differences between these two batches of rounds in your rifle?

    If no, then id test 15-20 round of each over lab radar/chrono at various known distances to see if there any material differences show up either in MV or dope.

    That’s prob the only way you’re going to meaningfully quantify anything.
     
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    what is that difference? Can you quantify it?

    I can’t predict how 9x fired brass is going to shoot in somebody’s rifle, but in my experience old brass vs freshly sized brass equals poi difference which opens up a group or is blamed as a flier. I would not be surprised if his necks split at this point.
     
    For anyone following along, the old processed brass mixed extremely well with the newly processed. No difference in velocity nor poi.
     
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    I can’t predict how 9x fired brass is going to shoot in somebody’s rifle, but in my experience old brass vs freshly sized brass equals poi difference which opens up a group or is blamed as a flier. I would not be surprised if his necks split at this point.
    Hahaha, why wouldnt you be surprised to see necks split.....
     
    Hahaha cuz you have 9 firings on the brass hahaha?
    ...and? You have absolutely no context on my prep process, the mfg of the brass, how hard or soft ive pushed it through those firings - hell, you dont even know what cartridge it is. Just a classic case of someone getting out of their lane.
     
    Last edited:
    Hahaha cuz you have 9 firings on the brass hahaha?
    If you anneal your brass 9 firings shouldn't split the necks.
    Adding some data to this thread: When I load a large batch of rounds for my 6.5 (usually right around 400 rounds) I have brass with 8+ firings and some with only 4. I've experienced no POI or velocity difference and my SDs are well below 10 fps. The big thing is to make sure they are the same brand of brass (weight isn't a factor) and to anneal them every 3 firings at least to keep neck tension consistent.