I’m going to zero at a high power range that has berms from 200 on out to 1000. Are there any disadvantages to not starting at 100 yards. I know I can extrapolate what it would be, but...... that’s why this ones in the stupid forum. Thanks.
- Thread starter Grog11
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Frank just did a podcast on this a couple weeks ago. He recommends zeroing at 100. If you zero at 100 everything is coming up vs having to hold under. Guess it depends on what the application is for. All my stuff is zeroed at 100.
Always zero at 100
I zero for 200 when hunting, minute of deer accuracy , treat anything closer to a 6 o’clock hold. Gets me out to about 275 before it falls below 6”.. pretty much give em the crosshairs and squeeze.
25 yard zero gets me close on elevation...for 308
Pretty sure 100 yard zero is like the standard though
25 yard zero gets me close on elevation...for 308
Pretty sure 100 yard zero is like the standard though
How about a hunting zero? I was going to pick your brains on this too. I always zero my rifles at 100, but my hunting rig I'd 200... any thoughts
Why, really why.. think about this. First were we aim, that’s our new effective zero, ether by dialing or using our subtensions.
My grandfather, an amazing hunter shot 2-3 moa at 100 (no wind) will his mill surplus 30-06 ammo and a just duplex. He needed a 200 yard zero.
Now we have amazing rifles, ammo, subtensions, external turrets and know our ballistics - same game? No.
Zero at 100, forget about hold unders and be done. Or get a fuck’n musket and zero at 2oo
You ain’t got a musket!!?
My old man taught me that way and it worked, not saying it’s right or new school tactical shit
It’s not that big a hold under... like two pecker lengths (2”). One setting for most all hunting ranges may be old but still works.
I have "zeroed" at 200yards and just zero with my dope. Usually 0.4 mils from 100 to 200. I just put .4 on the scope, zero the rifle, and dial back to zero. Then you have a 100 yard zero shot from 200yards.
I usually zero my hunting rifles at 200 if they have a Leupold hold over reticle. That is how loopy sets them up to zero.
I usually zero my hunting rifles at 200 if they have a Leupold hold over reticle. That is how loopy sets them up to zero.
Ya, for certain BCD type scopes, ya..you have to do whatever the mfg set it up for.
But I am a once system kinda person. Not smart enough to have 10 scopes with some in mils and some in triangles.. I hunt with mils, do matches with mils..plink in mils. If I dial an elevation that's my new zero, everything is constant so when my adrenaline is up, my task load remains low...
Many hunters zero at 200 because the drop is less at 100 yards than it would be if zeroed at 100 and shooting at 200 yards. For example, a .308 with a 26" barrel shooting 2745 fps with a 100 yard zero will drop 3.1" at 200 yards. The same rifle with a 200 zero will have 1.6" of drop at 100 yards. The thought behind this is that if zeroed at 200 yards, you can still aim to your POI at 100 yards and expect a vital zone hit whereas if zeroed at 100 yards and shot at 200, you have to allow for the extra change in elevation in relation to your wanted POI as 3" can take you out of your vital zone.
It will be 1.6 over at 100 with a 200 zero.
A lot of hunters subscribe to the maximum point blank range (mpbr) philosophy. Which as stated above is the range in which you can direct hold and still hit within the kill zone. The mpbr would be different for varmint say 3” kill zone vs deer’s 6”. However, most hunting scopes don’t have target turrets, turrets should be zeroed at a 100 then if you want to play mpbr games just add clicks. 230 yard zero would get close to 275 yards with a direct hold.. + or - 3”.. that’s my varmint setting ..
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Just know your system. There is quite a difference in hunting BDC type stuff and “tactical” stuff
My .300WSM and Swaro BDC SFP works really well at 200 yd zero, but references all change based on magnification power. I have two stickers on my stock and usually have time to range and adjust accordingly. It’s not a handy system for “precision” shooting but has never let me down when actually filling a tag.
Just practice with your setup and get good dope.
My .300WSM and Swaro BDC SFP works really well at 200 yd zero, but references all change based on magnification power. I have two stickers on my stock and usually have time to range and adjust accordingly. It’s not a handy system for “precision” shooting but has never let me down when actually filling a tag.
Just practice with your setup and get good dope.
what haystax said, just know your system. as noted up above though, if you zero at 200 or further, you might be affected by wind out there. if doing that maybe just do your zero (elevation) but come back and check left-right at 100.
I normally zero everything at 100. I was playing around with the idea of 200. I'm running a Warbird. So my ELD-X is moving at 3124 so it's pretty flat shooting
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