Zeroing optic with a previously adjusted zero stop

[HeShootsHeScores]

I apologize if this question is a common one, I searched and couldn't find the answer I was looking for.

I'm just starting to dip my toes into the long range shooting game and bought a scope off of an old military buddy of mine's backup rifle (MeOpta Optika6). I'm not new to zeroing scopes but none of the scopes I've previously zeroed for hunting had an adjustable zero stop, nor did I have a 20moa base under it.

I'm assuming that he had the zero stop set to his zero and so my question is do I need to loosen the set screw and return the elevation adjustment to center of the optics adjustment range? Every bit of me says this is an obvious answer but with the price of 6.5 PRC, I figured I'd ask lol.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Rio Precision Gunworks]

If it was already on a rifle with a 20moa base, it'll likely be fairly close where it needs to be. If it's a zero stop that is built in (I.E. it stops at zero or .5 or so below zero), it wouldn't hurt to loosen the turret and slip it to about 5 mil (or equivalent MOA) and leave it there to zero. This will make sure you have enough travel to dial down if needed.

You could also just set the optic all the way to the bottom of the travel, set the turret to zero, and then bore sight the optic. As you'll only have elevation available and that's what you'll need to get there. Bore sight it, zero it, then slip turret to zero.

If it's an optic with a clutch type zero, just do the same thing, but with the clutch. If it's a shim type stop, just take the shims out, bore sight and zero and then put them in.

 

[HeShootsHeScores]

If it was already on a rifle with a 20moa base, it'll likely be fairly close where it needs to be. If it's a zero stop that is built in (I.E. it stops at zero or .5 or so below zero), it wouldn't hurt to loosen the turret and slip it to about 5 mil (or equivalent MOA) and leave it there to zero. This will make sure you have enough travel to dial down if needed.

You could also just set the optic all the way to the bottom of the travel, set the turret to zero, and then bore sight the optic. As you'll only have elevation available and that's what you'll need to get there. Bore sight it, zero it, then slip turret to zero.

If it's an optic with a clutch type zero, just do the same thing, but with the clutch. If it's a shim type stop, just take the shims out, bore sight and zero and then put them in.

Does the fairly close thought still apply even with it being different calibers? All other aspects having been the same ( exact same rifle just different caliber and if I recall he also had it on a 20 moa base I believe?). Both were bergara b14 hmr wilderness rifles, just with his being 6.5 creedmoor and mine being 6.5 prc.

Also does adding the 20moa base make a good bit of the downward moa adjustments useless? (For a lack of better words). As in let's say my scope had 60 moa of total adjustment with the stock setting of the zero stop being dead center (30 up, 30 down). After adding a 20 moa base and with the same zero stop location, I should technically have 50 down and 30 up which is impractical, correct? Or am I looking at this wrong?