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300 Norma Mag

One quick test at 385 today on the load from two posts above. Only four shots. Looks like it is holding up though right at a half minute or so for all the grouos so far. I dialed 1.3 and still hit a touch high (measured scope height is 2.9"). Perhaps this is doing a touch better than the 300WM - velocities I was suspecting with only 82gr H1000.

Either way, I'll shoot it at 655 in the next week or two to finalize as well as true velocity. If it stays the same, I'll load the rest of my buddy's components up for him and call it good.

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I've been messing around with the Berger 215 Hybrid Target and H1000 but in the improved version of the 300 NM. A ten shot group averaged 3135 fps ES 9.5 and SD 4.1. This was down a 30 inch barrel and a charge of 87.5.
 
Since I couldn't find much info on 245's and H1000 I figured I'd post up some results to help others who may be interested in that combo. This was from a remington varmint contour 8 twist 28" long on a lightweight hunting rifle.
norma 2.jpg
 
Groups and speeds are acceptable for a hunting setup. Didn’t play with seating depth or charge.
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I ran those in a 17 twist 300wsm. Pretty quick too. I would try them in a Norma with a real slow twist
 
Can you guys help me confirm what’s happening with my brass:
300 Norma mag
Norma brass
80.5 h1000
Left is never fired
Right is once fired

Resizing with Hornady match sizing die.
 

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Can you guys help me confirm what’s happening with my brass:
300 Norma mag
Norma brass
80.5 h1000
Left is never fired
Right is once fired

Resizing with Hornady match sizing die.
Your chamber is making marks or the dies. I've had both do it
 
It’s going to my smith tomorrow, thank you!
If you are having trouble ejecting that brass it is likely due to a bad spot in the chamber. From what I see in the picture it is likely just from the die.
Clean the inside of the die to be sure you haven't gotten a little dirt or carbon build up in there and see how brass looks then.
Overall, unless it is causing a problem with ejection, I would not worry about it. Some of what you see is very normal.
 
I need help here:

300 Norma Mag with Lapua brass and a .336 bushing.

Ordering a mandrel body expander this week, but I don’t know what size to get to give me .002 neck tension.

I know I am supposed to do all the measurements myself, but if anyone uses Lapua brass, I’d love to hear what size bushing and mandrel expander you are using for your preferred neck tension.
 
I need help here:

300 Norma Mag with Lapua brass and a .336 bushing.

Ordering a mandrel body expander this week, but I don’t know what size to get to give me .002 neck tension.

I know I am supposed to do all the measurements myself, but if anyone uses Lapua brass, I’d love to hear what size bushing and mandrel expander you are using for your preferred neck tension.
I run a .334 bushing because I had one, and a .3065 mandrel. I have the Forster mic and it appears to be right at .002 neck tension.
 
I would buy all their .30 caliber mandrels and experiment with whatever neck tension gives you the best consistency and accuracy at 600 yards or more. They sell them in .0005 increments and just assuming .002 of tension will work best, may not be the case.
 
However, if you're set on running .002, I was using a custom Forster sizing die honed to .3055 and I found running a .306 mandrel after sizing, gave me better groups and ES.
 
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Since I couldn't find much info on 245's and H1000 I figured I'd post up some results to help others who may be interested in that combo. This was from a remington varmint contour 8 twist 28" long on a lightweight hunting rifle.View attachment 8364386
Much appreciated posting these results, I just dumped money into the EOLs prior to reading about H1000 vs. N570 for heavy pills. I have H1000 on hand, have the same barrel specs except its a heavy rifle.

Curious what your seating depth/die combo is?
 
Just found out my Lapua brass necks is about .017 thick. So, with a .336 bushing, I should get a .302 mandrel since .017*2=.034 and .336-.034= .302? Am I missing something?
 
Just found out my Lapua brass necks is about .017 thick. So, with a .336 bushing, I should get a .302 mandrel since .017*2=.034 and .336-.034= .302? Am I missing something?
You need to decide how you want to set your neck tension, either with a bushing or a mandrel, but not both. If you're loaded rd measures .340 and you're using a .336 bushing, you have .004 neck tension and a .302 mandrel won't even contact the inside of the neck. There is no .302 mandrel that I'm aware of anyway.

Picking a mandrel to set tension is as easy as measuring the diameter of the bullets your using and subtracting the difference to get your desired neck tension. If you are measuring your bullets at .3075, then your mandrel is .3055, if they are .308, then your mandrel is .306.
 
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Just found out my Lapua brass necks is about .017 thick. So, with a .336 bushing, I should get a .302 mandrel since .017*2=.034 and .336-.034= .302? Am I missing something?
Find out your chamber neck dimensions. A lot of norma reamers are 342-343 neck diameter as early lapua was near 338 loaded diameter. If your necks are 0.017 the loaded neck will be close to 342. You may need to neck turn for adequate clearance. Not the first I'd have heard of this happening with recent production lapua 300 nm brass.
 
I neck turn all my lapua brass in 300NM on the neck/shoulder junction after 5 th firing to remove the donut .I use 0.335 bushing and that’s it .
 

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