Bear in mind that headspace can also be a problem separate from charge weight.I'd say those velocity variations are equal within sample noise, are you using a lab scale or beam to finish the charge to target?
What projectile & barrel lenght? What powder?
If that's "old" winchester brass should be fine, the new stuff seems to be hard but thinner in the body, lot of people getting cracking with low fire count on new stuff but the old ones seem to last a long time. If it's the older brass it may get light ejector prints at reasonable loads, I can see faint ejector marks on my 6br norma brass from about 3 grains under what everyone runs.
Primers look fine. Extraction ok?
ComponentsComponents:
Br2 primer
Accubond L.R. 142 grain
Nickel plated win. Brass
Staball 6.5
Ditch the polymer mags for binder less MDT or accurate AICS. That will allow up to 2.960 mag fed.22” barrel
Last winter I was using some left over Prime brass just to break in my newest 6.5CM build, but I was not happy with the SD numbers. This was with 140 ELDMs and 41.7 gr of H4350, .035” jump for 2,750 fps. SDs was in the teens. Switched to Peterson SRP brass and immediately the SDs dropped like a rock. Last time I chrono’d my SDs with the Peterson brass load was 2.7 fps from a 10-shot string.
42.3gn-2662Ditch the polymer mags for binder less MDT or accurate AICS. That will allow up to 2.960 mag fed.
As for the load I don't have much to offer. Never loaded Winchester brass or those 142's for the 6.5C. So not sure how Win case capacity compares to Lapua etc.
Anecdotally though Win brass in other calibers I've loaded has pretty hard heads & BR2's I believe have the thicker cup. Or in other words that combo may not show pressure signs as early as say Hornady brass with Federal 210's.
I don't see cratering on the primers, they don't look very flat, & you said bolt lift was normal. All good there.
With 6.5 Staball I haven't been able to achieve as low SD as I can with other powder choices such as H4350, RL16, RL15.5, N555
I don't think you ever told us the speed you got or what rifle/barrel you've got. That is an important piece of the equation.
I’ve got go/no go gauges I’ll check it outLooking at your pic's it seems the bolt face is rubbing the case face which as @Bbracken667 stated could be a headspace issue
Since your new I don't want to skip the obvious. It's not just chamber head space. Do you have a comparator to check the shoulder bump on your resized vs shot brass? This is important. You can't just screw the die in till the shell holder is contacting and expect all to be well. .002-.004 shoulder bump is what you want. If the shoulder clearance gets to high about .010+ you'll see false pressure signs from the case head slamming back into the bolt. This is especially true with actions like the Solus that have spring plunger ejectors. Those ejectors push the case forward till the shoulder contacts. Extra or excessive shoulder bump also reduces brass life because the base of the brass stretches out to meet the bolt (big contributing factor to early case head separations).I’ve got go/no go gauges I’ll check it out
CCI-400Do you recall which SRP you used ?
What kind of modifications do I have to do to the bottom metal?Ditch the polymer mags for binder less MDT or accurate AICS. That will allow up to 2.960 mag fed.
As for the load I don't have much to offer. Never loaded Winchester brass or those 142's for the 6.5C. So not sure how Win case capacity compares to Lapua etc.
Anecdotally though Win brass in other calibers I've loaded has pretty hard heads & BR2's I believe have the thicker cup. Or in other words that combo may not show pressure signs as early as say Hornady brass with Federal 210's.
I don't see cratering on the primers, they don't look very flat, & you said bolt lift was normal. All good there.
With 6.5 Staball I haven't been able to achieve as low SD as I can with other powder choices such as H4350, RL16, RL15.5, N555
I don't think you ever told us the speed you got or what rifle/barrel you've got. That is an important piece of the equation.
Not a thing. Look at your polymer mag, it should say AICS on there somewhere. As long as your rifle takes AICS mags, any Accurate or MDT (binderless) AICS will plug and play.What kind of modifications do I have to do to the bottom metal?