Re: Idea! Official DTA SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Th
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Doc1911</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tucsondave</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Thats a good question. The Barrel extension has a groove that sits at 6 o'clock to orient the barrel.It seats easily. <span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold">I wonder how the lock mechanism works and also how long the 4, 2.5mm clamp screws will last and how they hold the barrel as well.</span></span> I always use the torque wrench to tighten. <span style="color: #FF0000"><span style="font-weight: bold">Are there any detailed pix of the barrel extension engagaged and locked/unlocked? Or any illustrations of the pinch bolts and barrel lock?</span></span> Enquiring minds want to know. Thanks. </div></div>
Thanks for that explanation - and the excellent pic. These are really sharp looking weapons and from what I have read - accurate.
I had a friend who had a HS Precision (308/300WM) set up. It had what is called a wedge (I think) to assist in lock up. It wore out in about 100/200 barrel changes. Now, this was a long time ago and from what you describe above the lock up sounds different on the DTA. However, before I order one (I have a set-up priced out), I'd like to know about the testing and evaluation of this aspect of the weapon. In addition, I'd like to see the answer to those questions you raised.
Off to the range to shoot a friend's AI - again.
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I'll try to explain the barrel lock up. The four bolts are threaded nearly to the other side of the receiver. The receiver has a small slit cut (small gap if you will) in it where the barrel engages it; the cut is parallel to the bore. The four screws cross this cut and are threaded on each side. The effect of tightening them down is to close the gap, thus grabbing the barrel. The lock is just a rising barrel block that keeps it from being pulled out or slipping in the receiver. It is similar (but much stronger) to a semi-auto handguns take down lever. It doesn't grip the barrel, but does keep it from sliding. The block is at the front of the engagement surface.
<span style="text-decoration: underline">It is important to always use the torque wrench!</span> The receiver is Al, so it is possible to strip the cross bolts threads out. Truth be told, it would be possible even if it was steel, just harder. Considering the Al alloy (7075 if I recall correctly), there is no risk of stripping them out when using the torque wrench. The engagement surface is approx. 6" long and 1.25" in diameter...lots of engagement.
I don't think anyone has had theirs long enough to really test out how many changes the system can handle. Looking at the design and materials used, I don't think it is going to wear, but there are no guarantees in life. I have not done an extensive test yet to determine if the POI changes with barrel changes (same barrel of course, some POI shift is expected if swapping barrels/calibers). I tried it twice and didn't notice any shift, but I only had short ranges to shoot at (100 and 200 yards) those days. Got mine too late in the year to finish load development and all the testing.
It is also very important that you have the bolt closed in the barrel before tightening the cross bolts down so that it head-spaces correctly.