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Your PVA prefit experience

Im one of the ones that probably caused headaches with my 16.5” 3B 22 creed, though I went 1/2” on the muzzle. I also had questions and called to confirm when ordering the barrel, but either way it ended up a little heavier up front.

Having an option for a lighter contour with reasonable shoulder diameter would keep me coming back.
I think it probably makes sense to make a flared muzzle option contour, maybe in 2 sizes. Something stupid light, like a #2 and something a little heavier like a 3B. If I make those standards on the website and provide a sketch people can reference it's not hard for us and it should clear up the questions.

Thoughts?
 
@bohem I like the idea of a flared muzzle option so that one can use a relatively light contour barrel and still run a suppressor /brake if desired.

Edited to add... those fookin hills get steeper EVERY year... but at my age I am happy to be able to enjoy them!!!!
 
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I think it probably makes sense to make a flared muzzle option contour, maybe in 2 sizes. Something stupid light, like a #2 and something a little heavier like a 3B. If I make those standards on the website and provide a sketch people can reference it's not hard for us and it should clear up the questions.

Thoughts?
This would absolutely be welcomed by many of us mountain hunters who want to hunt suppressed.
 
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This would absolutely be welcomed by many of us mountain hunters who want to hunt suppressed.
@bohem I like the idea of a flared muzzle option so that one can use a relatively light contour barrel and still run a suppressor /brake if desired.

OK, I don't want to rush headlong into it and make numerous changes. I'll put together a sketch and we can talk about it here to see what seems to make the most sense. It's not a hard thing to do for us as a standard option. I really haven't had much call for it in prior years and we've offered custom contours since 2018 so I didn't think it was something people really wanted.
 
I think it probably makes sense to make a flared muzzle option contour, maybe in 2 sizes. Something stupid light, like a #2 and something a little heavier like a 3B. If I make those standards on the website and provide a sketch people can reference it's not hard for us and it should clear up the questions.

Thoughts?

As someone who has built a gun with your barrel in a 16” configuration, personally I’ll always call, but to know it’s available would be nice. That said I know what I need for a shoulder, many don’t realize what’s needed. I have no desire for a 1/2” threaded <22 cal anything.

I think these requests are becoming more common because lots of hunters are jumping on the suppressor train and need 5/8x24 threads. And not having a really light option, say like PBB does, is keeping people from pulling the trigger. I know carbon is an option but honestly I’ll never own a carbon barrel again. They are expensive and now that Iv been bit by 2 of them I’m done.

My personal thoughts, make a reasonably light contour with a flared muzzle at desired length for 5/8 threads. Really I think one light contour would cover it. Guys building these guns don’t care about a mid weight barrel they want light, including myself. Something along the lines of the tikka lite contour would be nice. PBB hybrid lite contour looks like a winner in my book.


Right now I can think of 2 barrels similar to above I’d be interested in the future to compliment and or replace my 22creed when it dies for short suppressed rifles.
22” 6.5 creed to make light class in nrl hunter.
18” 6 creed for hunting.
Both threaded 5/8 with enough shoulder to satisfy Tbac spec

Honestly I didn’t know a custom contour was an option prior to today.
 
I think it probably makes sense to make a flared muzzle option contour, maybe in 2 sizes. Something stupid light, like a #2 and something a little heavier like a 3B. If I make those standards on the website and provide a sketch people can reference it's not hard for us and it should clear up the questions.

Thoughts?

OK, I don't want to rush headlong into it and make numerous changes. I'll put together a sketch and we can talk about it here to see what seems to make the most sense. It's not a hard thing to do for us as a standard option. I really haven't had much call for it in prior years and we've offered custom contours since 2018 so I didn't think it was something people really wanted.

I have one of your Ospreys in a 22BR, #3 at 20". Chambered by my smith, love it. Weigh's 46 oz. If a lighter contour w/ flare to allow for 5/8ths threads were available, I would have bought that instead. I think a Tikka lite contour at the same length would come in more like 35 oz, for instance, maybe 36 oz with the flare.

I think if you get the dimensions nailed there'd be plenty of guys who build light rifles who would find you. There's WAY more places to find a good heavy blank on the shelf than a good medium blank, and there's essentially nowhere to find a good light blank.
 
I have one of your Ospreys in a 22BR, #3 at 20". Chambered by my smith, love it. Weigh's 46 oz. If a lighter contour w/ flare to allow for 5/8ths threads were available, I would have bought that instead. I think a Tikka lite contour at the same length would come in more like 35 oz, for instance, maybe 36 oz with the flare.

I think if you get the dimensions nailed there'd be plenty of guys who build light rifles who would find you. There's WAY more places to find a good heavy blank on the shelf than a good medium blank, and there's essentially nowhere to find a good light blank.

Sounds like a very good guess. Here’s a factory 6.5 creed barrel chopped @18” and threaded 9/16”.
653E84FC-E96B-43F7-90D6-F05AA94B6753.jpeg
 
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I think it probably makes sense to make a flared muzzle option contour, maybe in 2 sizes. Something stupid light, like a #2 and something a little heavier like a 3B. If I make those standards on the website and provide a sketch people can reference it's not hard for us and it should clear up the questions.

Thoughts?

Sounds great to me.

3B is already 0.720" @ 25" so the only time it really becomes an issue is if they want 5/8 threads and longer than that. Adding 0.025" shoulder for a 26" finish length might help some folks I guess but it just seems like something that would come up less.

On the lighter end, I'd think a benchmark #3 or what Bartlein calls a rem mag sporter would be a good balance. In both cases they taper down quicker on the breech size compared to some typical aftermarket sporter contours and start at 1.20" which should help shave a little weight. Those wanting really light would prefer something like a tikka lite contour or a bart #2. Id order one if you had a contour anywhere in that range mentioned.
 
This would absolutely be welcomed by many of us mountain hunters who want to hunt suppressed.
Would be welcomed here too. Looking to put something superlite together for my 7yo son to hunt with next year. If pa allowed semi-auto it would probably be a pencil barrel AR I already own, but since has to be manual operated it'll probably be bolt build in fast twist 223 but maybe 6arc, 6creed or ???.
Regardless it would be nice to be superlight and threaded to use the supressor on when deer hunting next to me in a box blind.


The Osprey 20" Marksman 6creed I built earlier this year is just a tad too big for him...lol
Screenshot_20231127_181032_Gallery.jpg
 
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Would be welcomed here too. Looking to put something superlite together for my 7yo son to hunt with next year. If pa allowed semi-auto it would probably be a pencil barrel AR I already own, but since has to be manual operated it'll probably be bolt build in fast twist 223 but maybe 6arc, 6creed or ???.
Regardless it would be nice to be superlight and threaded to use the supressor on when deer hunting next to me in a box blind.


The Osprey 20" Marksman 6creed I built earlier this year is just a tad too big for him...lol
View attachment 8282782
You need a 16” 22 creed barrel. 77tmk at 3000fps.
 
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You need a 16” 22 creed barrel. 77tmk at 3000fps.
That would be an option. But this will be mostly short range for deer till he gets a little older, probably start him simple with a red dot.
223/556 with a 77gr would work great and have less blast, cheaper ammo and better barrel life.
I have a remington sps 223 varmint that I don't really use, so might jerk the 1:9 20" varmint barrel and get a remage 1:7 lightweight 16" for him and fabricate a short LOP stock to start him.
I am intrigued by 6arc as a mild versatile cartridge, but that requires more research on my part for suitable actions
 
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That would be an option. But this will be mostly short range for deer till he gets a little older, probably start him simpke with a red dot.
223/556 with a 77gr would work great and have less blast, cheaper ammo and better barrel life.
I have a remington sps 223 varmint that I don't really use, so might jerk the 1:9 20" varmint barrel and get a remage 1:7 lightweight 16" for him and fabricate a short LOP stock to start him.
I am intrigued by 6arc as a mild versatile cartridge, but that requires more research on my part for suitable actions
223 with a 77tmk is also a great choice. My go to deer gun for sub 400.

You can get a smaller recoil pad for that bravo and make it a 12.5” LOP.
 
Does anyone happen to have a Tikka Lite contour on hand that they can measure for me? Now that I've stopped leaking on the lathe I was setting up today I want to see what these things should look like. There's enough interest expressed to spend a few minutes in front of CAD to sketch something up. I really like the idea of 1 contour for it as that will cut down on the inherent complications that come from presenting folks with too many options up front.

I know what the shank and the first 5-6" of the barrel needs to look like. What I'm curious is two points:

1) 2 locations, muzzle and 6" from the shoulder as well as the barrel length to put the muzzle into perspective
2) Do we make a set contour where finishing it at different lengths simply moves the taper along so that the size behind the flare changes appropriate to what the taper dictates at say 0.015" per inch? Or do we set the size to something specific like 0.60" and whatever the finish length turns out to be is what you get? This is much like how we do them now. It would make short barrels even lighter, but since the goal is weight reduction perhaps that isn't a bad thing?
 
Does anyone happen to have a Tikka Lite contour on hand that they can measure for me? Now that I've stopped leaking on the lathe I was setting up today I want to see what these things should look like. There's enough interest expressed to spend a few minutes in front of CAD to sketch something up. I really like the idea of 1 contour for it as that will cut down on the inherent complications that come from presenting folks with too many options up front.

I know what the shank and the first 5-6" of the barrel needs to look like. What I'm curious is two points:

1) 2 locations, muzzle and 6" from the shoulder as well as the barrel length to put the muzzle into perspective
2) Do we make a set contour where finishing it at different lengths simply moves the taper along so that the size behind the flare changes appropriate to what the taper dictates at say 0.015" per inch? Or do we set the size to something specific like 0.60" and whatever the finish length turns out to be is what you get? This is much like how we do them now. It would make short barrels even lighter, but since the goal is weight reduction perhaps that isn't a bad thing?
Legend: .dia {distance from muzzle} (barrel length)

.616 {0} (24.33)
.620 {1.358} (23)
.630 {2.57} (21.75)
.640 {3.81} (20.5)
.650 {5.05} (19.25)
.660 {6.27} (18.06)
Recommended od for 9/16 shoulder .662 {6.625} (17.7)
0.673 {8.08} (16.25)Beyond this point has to be registered as an SBR
At front of tupperware 0.711 {13.33} (11)
Recommended od for 5/8 0.725 {15} (9.33)

Can get you more if you need it once I get home from work.
 
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Does anyone happen to have a Tikka Lite contour on hand that they can measure for me? Now that I've stopped leaking on the lathe I was setting up today I want to see what these things should look like. There's enough interest expressed to spend a few minutes in front of CAD to sketch something up. I really like the idea of 1 contour for it as that will cut down on the inherent complications that come from presenting folks with too many options up front.

I know what the shank and the first 5-6" of the barrel needs to look like. What I'm curious is two points:

1) 2 locations, muzzle and 6" from the shoulder as well as the barrel length to put the muzzle into perspective
2) Do we make a set contour where finishing it at different lengths simply moves the taper along so that the size behind the flare changes appropriate to what the taper dictates at say 0.015" per inch? Or do we set the size to something specific like 0.60" and whatever the finish length turns out to be is what you get? This is much like how we do them now. It would make short barrels even lighter, but since the goal is weight reduction perhaps that isn't a bad thing?
If the above poster dosnt have exactly what you’re looking for I have a factory lite in the basement I can dig up.

I wouldn’t mind the tapered contour being how you currently contour a barrel, regardless of length it tapers down, then has a set muzzle taper to get it to .725”. If that makes sense.
 
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That would be an option. But this will be mostly short range for deer till he gets a little older, probably start him simple with a red dot.
223/556 with a 77gr would work great and have less blast, cheaper ammo and better barrel life.
I have a remington sps 223 varmint that I don't really use, so might jerk the 1:9 20" varmint barrel and get a remage 1:7 lightweight 16" for him and fabricate a short LOP stock to start him.
I am intrigued by 6arc as a mild versatile cartridge, but that requires more research on my part for suitable actions
I've done a little research 'cause I think the 6 ARC has potential in a bolt gun. What I keep finding are very few Grendel/6 ARC bolts.

.308 bolts are much easier to find. That leads you to 6 BR or one of the variants.

Alternatively, 6 MAX uses regular AR bolts and (modified) cases. 6 MAX is still new enough that I haven't heard much about it good or bad

HTH

M
 
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Does anyone happen to have a Tikka Lite contour on hand that they can measure for me? Now that I've stopped leaking on the lathe I was setting up today I want to see what these things should look like. There's enough interest expressed to spend a few minutes in front of CAD to sketch something up. I really like the idea of 1 contour for it as that will cut down on the inherent complications that come from presenting folks with too many options up front.

I know what the shank and the first 5-6" of the barrel needs to look like. What I'm curious is two points:

1) 2 locations, muzzle and 6" from the shoulder as well as the barrel length to put the muzzle into perspective
2) Do we make a set contour where finishing it at different lengths simply moves the taper along so that the size behind the flare changes appropriate to what the taper dictates at say 0.015" per inch? Or do we set the size to something specific like 0.60" and whatever the finish length turns out to be is what you get? This is much like how we do them now. It would make short barrels even lighter, but since the goal is weight reduction perhaps that isn't a bad thing?

6" from shoulder that shoulders on the face of the action, barrel diameter is 0.735"

With a contour as light as this no need to make it any smaller on shorter finish lengths. Make it the same contour as a factory tikka lite barrel would be just with different finish lengths with an added 0.725" or larger shoulder. I'd think that would be easier for you than changing the rate of taper depending on finish length. I wouldn't want it any lighter than a factory chopped barrel would be if i'm going to hang a can on it.
 
I'll take ball sweat by week's end over pristine by March.

May want to check the bore for any potential obstructions secondary to dingleberries... I mean I don’t think they would PURPOSELY put them in there, but you know, it may occur sheerly due to proximity issues, while they’re applying that final coating of ball butter for their special customer. But hey, give it a try, can’t knock it ‘till you try it right? If that stuff dies on there you might end up with a protective layer that would give Cerakote a run for their money! Lol.

*All intended in fun and games of course :)
 
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Just to add to the PVA experience, I am extremely happy with my barrel. I picked up a 6CM barrel on the July 4th sale, sent my action off (Mack Bro Evo) to have barrel cut for this action. I do like how they keep my action print on file and sent me a blueprint card so for my next barrel I just need to send them my serial # and the picture of the blueprint card and I do not need to send off my action.

I did the barrel break in per PVA which was very easy. I used some left over ammo which was loaded for my previous proof barrel and printed this 20 round group just so I can use of the ammo to reload for this barrel.
20231022_144847.jpg
 
Legend: .dia {distance from muzzle} (barrel length)

.616 {0} (24.33)
.620 {1.358} (23)
.630 {2.57} (21.75)
.640 {3.81} (20.5)
.650 {5.05} (19.25)
.660 {6.27} (18.06)
Recommended od for 9/16 shoulder .662 {6.625} (17.7)
0.673 {8.08} (16.25)Beyond this point has to be registered as an SBR
At front of tupperware 0.711 {13.33} (11)
Recommended od for 5/8 0.725 {15} (9.33)

Can get you more if you need it once I get home from work.
Thank you!
I'll take ball sweat by week's end over pristine by March.
I'll bring this up to Ben and see what he thinks can be accomplished. (Wear gloves when you open the box)
 
@bohem How do your carbon wrapped Ospreys compare to a 3B or Light Palma, as far as weight? Also, have any thoughts on accuracy between Carbon vs All Steel?

Example: My 20” Light Palma 6CM weighs 51 oz.
I saw a post recently here saying a 20” #3 was 46 oz.
At 27" long the carbon blank, unchambered, weighs 3lb exactly for a 22 caliber barrel in the M24 variant
The Light Palma is close to 4lb

At shorter lengths the carbon loses weight slower than the heavier contours because you're cutting away steel that's 0.64" in diameter and carbon that weighs almost nothing. The Light Palma cuts away steel that is 0.75" or bigger

I don't know what a 20" carbon M24 is going to weigh without cutting one, but if I had to guess it would be somewhere around 35 oz

We have a "Light Hunter" as well and it's comparable in size to the Proof Light Sendero. It's a direct copy of the Hells Canyon Light Hunter (as mentioned, they're wrapping the Ospreys). It's very light but offhand I couldn't give you any reasonable guess as to what it would be at 20" long
 
At 27" long the carbon blank, unchambered, weighs 3lb exactly for a 22 caliber barrel in the M24 variant
The Light Palma is close to 4lb

At shorter lengths the carbon loses weight slower than the heavier contours because you're cutting away steel that's 0.64" in diameter and carbon that weighs almost nothing. The Light Palma cuts away steel that is 0.75" or bigger

I don't know what a 20" carbon M24 is going to weigh without cutting one, but if I had to guess it would be somewhere around 35 oz

We have a "Light Hunter" as well and it's comparable in size to the Proof Light Sendero. It's a direct copy of the Hells Canyon Light Hunter (as mentioned, they're wrapping the Ospreys). It's very light but offhand I couldn't give you any reasonable guess as to what it would be at 20" long
I was directed to you by another member. to see if you can help me with a prefit barrel for a GA tempest action. Posting here because I can’t find the link to message you.
 
Can someone explain the whole "barrel nut" version Vs traditional shouldered prefit to me. How is it different from a Remmage setup?
It's advertised as a prefit, but obviously isn't in the sense that I'm thinking, whereas one just screws/torques on a prefit, and is off to the races.
 
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Can someone explain the whole "barrel nut" version Vs traditional shouldered prefit to me. How is it different from a Remmage setup?
It's advertised as a prefit, but obviously isn't in the sense that I'm thinking, whereas one just screws/torques on a prefit, and is off to the races.
Barrel nut and remage age basically the same as far as I know. Prefit is shouldered.
 
Can someone explain the whole "barrel nut" version Vs traditional shouldered prefit to me?
It's advertised as a prefit, but obviously isn't in the sense that I'm thinking, whereas one just screws/torques on a prefit, and is off to the races.
Prefitting refers setting headspace by spec. Its based on a blueprint fitment. A true pre-fit barrel has a hard shoulder in a singular, correct location.
 
Barrel nut and remage age basically the same as far as I know. Prefit is shouldered.
So, how is it a prefit, and a barrel nut setup at the same time?

Barrel I'm referring to

https://patriotvalleyarms.com/cdm-barrel-nut-prefit-sale-6-5mm/


Also, under the compatibility section it lists 700 as Remage, but doesn't specify that under Savage Small Shank actions.

"Compatible Actions for Savage Small Shank (others may exist, these are known to work)

All Bighorn/Zermatt TL3 and Origin, TL2 with 20 TPI tenon
All American Rifle Nucleus, Archimedes and Mausingfields post 2014
American Rifle Coup De Grace magnum bolt face, not 308 or 223 bolt face
Savage Small shank actions are typically 2 digit models IE 10/11/16 except the Model 12 Target Action
AeroPrecision Solus
Impact 787



Compatible Actions for Remington 700 Barrel Nut (Remage)
Remington 700
Defiance Deviant, Rukus, Tenacity, AnTi, not including the Deviant Elite or coned breech actions
Impact 737
Lone Peak
Stiller Tac 30 and Tac300
Falkor series"



Basically, I need a barrel for a 6.5prc Origin, and want to make sure I'm ordering the right one,
Is a barrel nut barrel the same as a shoulder fit, but just with an added barrel nut for finer headspace adjustment?
 
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So, how is it a prefit, and a barrel nut setup at the same time?

Barrel I'm referring to

https://patriotvalleyarms.com/cdm-barrel-nut-prefit-sale-6-5mm/


Also, under the compatibility section it lists 700 as Remage, but doesn't specify that under Savage Small Shank actions.

"Compatible Actions for Savage Small Shank (others may exist, these are known to work)

All Bighorn/Zermatt TL3 and Origin, TL2 with 20 TPI tenon
All American Rifle Nucleus, Archimedes and Mausingfields post 2014
American Rifle Coup De Grace magnum bolt face, not 308 or 223 bolt face
Savage Small shank actions are typically 2 digit models IE 10/11/16 except the Model 12 Target Action
AeroPrecision Solus
Impact 787



Compatible Actions for Remington 700 Barrel Nut (Remage)
Remington 700
Defiance Deviant, Rukus, Tenacity, AnTi, not including the Deviant Elite or coned breech actions
Impact 737
Lone Peak
Stiller Tac 30 and Tac300
Falkor series"



Basically, I need a barrel for a 6.5prc Origin, and want to make sure I'm ordering the right one,
Is a barrel nut barrel the same as a shoulder fit, but just with an added barrel nut for finer headspace adjustment?
Jesus Christ, and you were telling people they don’t know about machining practices to make an action and you can’t even understand basic concepts.

If you no longer have to put a barrel in a lathe and cut on it to fit your action it is a prefit. Be that shouldered or with a barrel nut.

If you have measured the action (or the actions are consistent enough to have a listed spec) the. You can cut the shoulder without having the action, this shouldered prefits.
If you can’t measure the action or they are too variable to allow a precise shoulder to be cut you can make a barrel nut prefit which allows the installer to locate to the action and set it there with the jam nut.


With an origin you can do either, a shouldered or a savage barrel nut set up.
 
Jesus Christ, and you were telling people they don’t know about machining practices to make an action and you can’t even understand basic concepts.

If you no longer have to put a barrel in a lathe and cut on it to fit your action it is a prefit. Be that shouldered or with a barrel nut.

If you have measured the action (or the actions are consistent enough to have a listed spec) the. You can cut the shoulder without having the action, this shouldered prefits.
If you can’t measure the action or they are too variable to allow a precise shoulder to be cut you can make a barrel nut prefit which allows the installer to locate to the action and set it there with the jam nut.


With an origin you can do either, a shouldered or a savage barrel nut set up.
I absolutely understand the difference in a shouldered and a prefit.
That's all well and good, but it can't be a prefit AND a nut barrel at the same time.
Right?
It's basically like saying something is semi auto bolt action.

I was asking for clarification, since it's stated to be a Prefit Barrel Nut. If perhaps it was a design unique to the mfg.
 
I absolutely understand the difference in a shouldered and a prefit.
That's all well and good, but it can't be a prefit AND a nut barrel at the same time.
Right?
It's basically like saying something is semi auto bolt action.

I was asking for clarification, since it's stated to be a Prefit Barrel Nut. If perhaps it was a design unique to the mfg.
I dont know why you're struggling with the terminology. They're both prefit, one happens to be adjustable for headspace.
 
I dont know why you're struggling with the terminology. They're both prefit, one happens to be adjustable for headspace.
Thats just bastardizing the english language. Adjustable headspace isn't a pre-fit, that's a contradiction in terms.

Every barrel has 'adjustable headspace' if you put it on a lathe.:LOL: :ROFLMAO::rolleyes:
 
Thats just bastardizing the english language. Adjustable headspace isn't a pre-fit, that's a contradiction in terms.

Every barrel has 'adjustable headspace' if you put it on a lathe.:LOL: :ROFLMAO::rolleyes:
Youre confused by the terminology as well. A barrel finish machined in the absence of the action. Nothing more, nothing less.

Savage prefit
Remage prefit
Shouldered prefit

All machined to a set of tolerances.

The term prefit was not invented a handful of years ago when action makers started widely guaranteeing headspace.
 
There three steps in making a barrel, namely threading, chambering, and fitting of headspace.

You can buy barrels pre-threaded and pre-chambered that are not pre-fits and are not barrel-nuts. These still require setting headspace (on a lathe). The barrel nut still requires the same headspacing procedure, just using a wrench vs a lathe.

And actual pre-fit barrel eliminates the fitting step altogether.

Lilya explains this here...

We are offering a pre-threading option for our in-stock and made-to-order barrels. We also offer chambering along with the threading for a limited number of cartridges.


Model of a Remington 700 thread and counterbore.

The barrels will still require a gunsmith, experienced at fitting barrels to actions, to make the final fitting and headspacing adjustments on a lathe and using headspace gauges.
 
There three steps in making a barrel, namely threading, chambering, and fitting of headspace.

You can buy barrels pre-threaded and pre-chambered that are not pre-fits and are not barrel-nuts. These still require setting headspace (on a lathe). The barrel nut still requires the same headspacing procedure, just using a wrench vs a lathe.

And actual pre-fit barrel eliminates the fitting step altogether.

Lilya explains this here...
How is headspacing a short chambered pre-thread in a lathe the same procedure as an at home user adjusting a barrel nut with a wrench.

Youre needlessly adding complexity to the definition. We were buying “Savage prefits” in the 90s from Sharp shooter supply. Google “Savage prefit”. Every prefit manufacturer mentioned here on a daily basis will be all of the first hits. Guess what they call them?
 
How is headspacing a short chambered pre-thread in a lathe the same procedure as an at home user adjusting a barrel nut with a wrench.

Youre needlessly adding complexity to the definition. We were buying “Savage prefits” in the 90s from Sharp shooter supply. Google “Savage prefit”. Every prefit manufacturer mentioned here on a daily basis will be all of the first hits. Guess what they call them?
If your action cannot be pre-fit for headspace off a bluepint, IMHO neither can your barrel.

Barrel nut was just an band aid solution to the problem, before a technical fix was possible.
 
Fer fooks sake. Enough with the dumb assed semantics posts. People have been calling savage, remage, barrel nut barrels "prefits" for a long time. The PVA barrel nut "prefits" are exactly what a reasonable person should assume they are, a barrel nut barrel that doesn't need a gunsmith to set headspace.

Everybody knows what a shouldered prefit is and what a barrel nut barrel is, we dont need 15 more posts about it.
 
Looking to order a PVA prefit to replace a bartlein at the end of the year on my match gun. Undecided on getting another bartlein and waiting, and shipping and waiting or just ordering a PVA prefit. Looking to hear experience, good, bad, ugly. Specifically likely going with a 6.5cm 7.5twist shouldered for a tikka.

Let me know your experience.
Can anyone recommend a prefit barrel
For a GA tempest action?
 
I just picked up a new PVA 25 Creedmoor shouldered prefit for ARC from a member here & he didn't have any paperwork for it.

Serial #2206704 @bohem - Would you please look this up to confirm twist. Pretty sure this is a buttoned Rock Creek.

Thanks