They are controlling global Economy, Global Energy, and Resources, global population Disarmament, and dispersal of the planets diverse poverty population threw all member countries boarders. So what is going to stop them from achieving becoming a singular unified Party for total global control ?
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JJ Rock action/Bartlein barrel

BTT

misser said:

i do have questions about the execution of jesus . he was nailed on and somehow the the wood was stood up . don't know if any of you have ever stood ,by hand ,poles as use in pole barns . it can be a task. now nail a man to one and the task becomes many more times difficult. IMHO the cross beam would be a handle 3-4 feet up from the bottom. giving 2 extra men a place to push against and the guys pushing on the shaft would not have to be pushing on the mans body

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Insert the post in a hole in the ground.
Lift the "cross bar" up to the top of the post and fasten it to the post.

even FX-120i is NOT accurate scale and drifts. but because you dont know and dont have better scale, you dont know this.

but it is good for reloading. nobody need better.

but it is better than beam scales, because beam scales are very finky and you must be very careful, which retarded american reloaders arent.

higginsworksforme said:

Was he dolphin or whale?

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"F-you, da-fin! F-you whare!"
And he was a dolphin, by the way.

you dont have all new guccy useless reloading stuff, which the most active posters here are shilling.

so you sux!

I do believe this was the latest series prior to MDT purchasing them.

To be honest I'm not sure when it happens as I can't recreate the problem when I try on purpose. I try running the bolt while dragging it againt the chassis. I almost feel like it happens when I have my bolt lifted as I'm transitioning and then it rotates sometime between transition and bolt closing. But unfortunately I'm usually hyper focused on running the stage clean vs looking at my bolt.

Tbh I don’t even remember. Can check in the morning though. Small part of me wants to say C or E? But I could be thinking of another action I have.

That's what I figured but man do I like this chassis lol (mainly the folder) it's insanely rigid. I'll try upping the trigger weight some and see if it helps, then try to bevel the chassis if that doesn't help. Worst case I'll swap to a Grayboe or something similar

Prefix?

Ichi said:

Login to view embedded media

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Thanks for posting…good video despite the annoying AI text to speech dialogue. “C one hundred and forty one S” vs C-141 (my main aircraft btw),etc. LoL

I loved flying the tweet, and would have enjoyed a chance to fly one with twice the thrust… A10 is the closest comparison for ease of control; completely different beast though!

Fair enough, sounds like the Savage B22 will be a good fit.
I don't like having to tinker with things, and certainly don't want to deal with reliability issues in a match.

Be sure to report back after your first few matches.
Most people start into the sport thinking they'll just stay in base class/not take it to seriously, then 6 months later are building a 10k Vudoo setup like you mentioned.

that's where we differ. if I want budget I want BUDGET and if I want to build a nice gun I'll start with a custom machined action, stick it in a foundation or atx or mpa and have it chambered with a quality bench rest cut rifled blank by a friend with his super secret squirrel 22lr reamer. if I get good I may well decide to do that. if I do I'll pull this venom off here and at least go with a G2 razor lol.
you're right, savages don't generally feed and eject as well as many other brands and aren't a great fit if you don't like to tinker (I do). believe it or not I've only ever had a problem with savages on competition days when conditions weren't friendly fwiw, ymmv.

Thumper580 said:

I have a Redding Competition seating die and a Forster Competition seater for 308. Normally seating 168 or 175 smk's. On both of them I can make a 1,2,3 or 4 thous. adjustment and maybe it will be exact and maybe not... Sometimes I can make an adjustment and nothing happens... or it moves past what I dialed. I've taken them apart several times, cleaned and lubed, etc. but still not precise or consistent. I've actually gone back to an ancient seating die that once set to the depth I want it stays within 1/2 thousandths..... Anyone else have this situation. Bit pissed considering the cost of competition seaters....

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I expect the neck tension on your sized cases is inconsistent. If you are using a bushing sizer, I would increase the bushing a thou or so and see what you get.

Cody S said:

what would I even want to upgrade on the savage? all the other options that were good for base come equipped with crappy cheapo plastic stocks that I can't shoot worth shit off a barricade. savage comes with MDT and flush fit 10 round mags.
also if upgraded, it wouldn't be base class...
you realize it already comes with an mdt one piece chassis. I'm allowed to bed the rifle into the chassis if I need to for it to shoot it's best and if I'm not up to the task I know an old pro who can help me one weekend.
comes with a light factory adjustable trigger
factory threaded for suppressor...
I'm not seeing what the problem is honestly, unless you just don't like savage or mdt or something which I can sort of understand because I own an AI and love it dearly but common... it's 22lr... the whole gun was around 500$ new... I would have got used but that wasn't possible.

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You don't see many savages or other cheap rimfires at matches these days, they used to be common but not so much any more.
Most people tend to start with the rifles I mentioned as they are typically a safer bet, and can be built upon in the future if required.

The last match I shot I guy in my squad had a Savage, which he said was really accurate.
Only issue is if you cycled the bolt too fast the trigger wouldn't catch, so you had to cock the bolt again.
Savages are often touted as being just as good as much more expensive rifles, (Savage vs AI is a common meme here) while usually accurate, feeding, ejection etc is often an issue.

You might get lucky and it's shoot amazing and be deadnuts reliable.
Personally I'd rather shoot a CZ457 or T1x in a factory stock knowing I had a good base action to build on in the future if I felt the need.

The unwritten rule of machine shops: Your work can be done 1) Right, 2) Fast, 3) Cheap
Pick any two.

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stello1001 said:

Hey all,

I'm gonna want to get into reloading very soon. Do you guys care to share any constructive criticism and lemme know what I'm missing?

Cartridges I shoot include:
308
270
6.5 man bun
223
6.5 grendel

I have plenty of accurate match ammo for most my rifles. My 2 bolt grendels are the ones that shoot poorly with factory ammo so I want to start loading grendel ammo.
I am trying to make ammo that will be consistent, hopefully sub MOA. I don't necessarily need sub half MOA out of these rifles. They are hunting rifles and might occasionally plink with them just for fun.

I have:

Equipment -
Rock chucker Supreme
And the dies pictured below

Components -
Varget
Blc2
Ramshot Tac
Plenty of 1x fired hornady brass
New starline brass
Wolf and federal primers small & large
130 AR hybrids
123 SST
123 AMAX
120 AMAX
120 match burners

I need a way to dump powder, a priming tool, maybe some calipers.

Can somebody recommend specific models of these that you have found to like the best or work the best?

What else am I missing?
View attachment 8423243
Left to right:
RCBS 6.5 GRENDEL SEAT 21
LEE 6.5 GRENDEL
RCBS 6.5 GRENDEL FL 21

That is what they say

** edit to add**

I should probably mention, I will probably start with blc2 and Tac using AMAX and SST bullets. Plan is to do OCW but that is later once I've actually loaded some rounds. I'm trying to get set up right now.

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Weighing your powder as consistently as possible is the biggest thing you can do towards getting good results from your reloaded cartridges. I've taken factory cartridges and pulled the bullets, weighing the powder from all the cartridge's and dividing the total weight by the number of cartridges, then recharging the cases with that powder in more uniform weights in the cartridges. Also, I made sure all the cartridges were seated the same as one of the originals. The result has been a huge improvement in consistency in MV as well as what I got on paper. The better the scale you use for this, the better the results you'll get. After that, it's more about fine tuning the uniformity of each case.

I use a simple Lee Powder Measure to "dump powder", the I trickle up where my scale will give me a difference just from one granule of powder.

For a priming tool that I feel would work really well for you is the Frankford Arsenal Platinum Priming Tool. You can do all those different cartridges and it's adjustable so you can get proper seating depth when using various cartridges that'll have various primer pocket depths.

For a caliper, I'd recommend a good quality caliper like the Mitutoyo. Of course, there are cheaper calipers, but they tend be difficult to get consistent measurements. I have some cheap one to use when accuracy is not really critical. But the accuracy of my Mitutoyo is important in addition to the time it same in just taking measurements.

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