The other thread was locked, so post your current events, videos, opinions, comments, and other info relating to the war. Objective dialogue is welcome, but any .gov troll posters can go somewhere else to earn their disinformation paychecks. Spaciba. thank you.

I thought about resurrecting the old thread, but it was getting pretty big. So lets get a new one going...

Post up pics of your bikes, rides, or what not. Also any mountain biking (or any cycling) related conversation is always welcome!

I just came across 2 cases of primed wolf 223/ 5.56 brass. This is new, unloaded brass. It used to be available in quantities, but since things went all crazy, I don't see it anymore...anyways. My question is this, I'm loading on a dillon 550 with 69 SMK with Shooter's World and Tac powders. Do I still need to use the expander or resizing die? The way that I have ran about 100 so far have been put in the case in station 1, move to station 2 for powder, move to station 3 for bullet seating, and station 4 for an ever so light touch of the crimp die. Should I start to use the resizer in station 1 without the deprimer? Should chamfer the inside of the cartridges? I haven't noticed any shavings from the projectile after loading this way so far. Your input is greatly appreciated!

How long is the wait time on a form 4 to date? Post how long you have been waiting or how long you recently waited before it was completed and sighned.



JAY

I’m trying to consolidate my powder stock so I don’t have 10 different powders for my rifles. Looking at dumping the Grendel and going 6 ARC and strictly shooting 95gr-108gr. 18-20” barrel.

I would like to believe that factory ammo would be consistent but my experience with Grendel during the last drought was different lots were all over the map accuracy wise so if I go this route I’ll be committed to me doing the loading. I started loading for the Grendel but lost interest in it.

So which powder should I start buying for the ARC?

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY: “High-end” rifle works flawlessly, runs like a sewing machine, eats everything, but ejects rounds at 0130-0200 regardless of gas block setting. Is this a problem? Or who cares as long as it runs perfectly otherwise?

THE WHOLE NINE YARDS:

So… took an all-factory Noveske N4 G3 rifle and made it better, faster, stronger.

Put on Form-1 SBR.

Removed factory 13.7” with P/W Flaming Pig, replaced with 14.5” Proof CF “Wylde” coupled with the new JP D2 52-position (!!!) adjustable gas block.

Replaced 15” NSR3 rail with 13.5” NSR3 rail.

Replaced all lower parts with $400 in V7 Titanium bits — ‘cuz everyone needs an $80 safety selector and $100 ejection port cover.

Replaced buffer tube with V7 Lithium Aluminum tube, ‘cuz why not?

Replaced factory trigger with SSA-X.

Replaced Noveske BCG with JP Chromed LMOS.

Replaced Noveske buffer with JP SCS.

Cerakoted entire rifle in Gen2 HIR-265 (IR signature-reducing coating for NODs fun) — upper, lower, handrail, buffer tube, shiny bits like door cover and takedown pins, etc.

Added HUX flash hider and 7.62 Ti (pre-Flow) can.

Popped an FDE ATACR 1-8 with offset RMR-06 in C1 mount on top and called it a day.

Will take pics soon for posterity.

Anyhoo… with all that said, we finished the rifle on the Thursday before I took it to CR2’s Light Fighter course the very next day. First order of business was to get the gas system perfectly adjusted. The HUX can doesn’t have much backpressure at all, and the gun will never really be shot unsuppressed, but we did try it both with and without — zero difference.

JP’s new D2 AGBs have 52 positions for adjustment. Their instructions say to close it off entirely, then back-out 12 clicks, or roughly one full turn, and start there. They say the gun probably will NOT cycle at 12 clicks, and they were correct. They say to adjust in 3-click increments, which we did. After the first adjustment (15-clicks), the gun ejected, but just barely at about 0100. Went another 3 clicks and it was better, about 0130-0200. At this point I figured additional adjustment would push angle of eject toward the Orthodox Religious Dogma-Approved 0300-0400 angle, but no matter how may clicks we dialed-in, the pattern didn’t change — again, with or without the can.

Given this behavior, I figured the best position was at 18-21 clicks, since it cycled just fine with everything from cheap 223 Wolf Gold as well as 855A1 and 262 Mod 1C and the much maligned AAC 77g OTM 556.

Took it to the 3-day LF course the very next day and it never gave the slightest hiccup all weekend, nailing IPSC steel at >650 yards like a Rock Star.

Shoots like Chantilly Whipped Cream — soft and smooth.

But that eject angle…

Assume it’s more related to the LMOS/SCS than the gas system?

Aside from the angle, is there any reason to mess with it? It’s just absolute perfection otherwise and I hesitate to pfutz with it by playing Rifle Jenga.

Trigger Cam 2.1 - $550 shipped

Lightly used. Comes in the original box with all the inserts/SD card. Would consider partial trade for an MDT ACC inlet for a CZ 457.

Apparently, I missed reading about the reamer and the affect on deciding the suitable bullet.
I did read about the brand of the brass that will be specific to the reamer (unless neck turned) but I didn't read about the freebore of the reamer that'll also decide what will be the most suitable bullet (brand, weight etc).

Considering the reamer is a 6mm Dasher with a .120 freebore, how does it affect and how do I decide what the ideal bullet would be? The barrel is a 7.5 twist. I was under the impression that whatever the freebore is for the reamer, it can be neglected as the seating depth of the bullet can be adjusted (to an extent) and then be tested with jam or certain jump. Is that not correct?

Given the freebore and the twist, what should be my bullet of choice for starting the testing? I do have some load data but then again, I don't remember seeing anything that mentioned the freebore, just the twist for picking the bullet. Talking to guys at the range, they recommended 105gr Berger or 115gr but only 1 of them asked me about the freebore which got me thinking.

Thank you

Did you ever wanna say something, but didn't because it was in a technical sub forum?

Anyone have any info on the Winchester Model 70's and Remington 700 configurations that the FBI built for their snipers? I have the Vanderpool book and was looking for more info or pics. I'm also interested in the FN guns.
Thanks!

I'm looking pretty closely at the Maven B.5 line as I get a 20% discount. I've read a ton of threads trying to figure out which magnification level would be best, but I haven't really come to a conclusion. My main use would be on a tripod for PRS matches. What are your opinions on magnification for this use case?

So what are YOU drinking right now?

I'm easy, so im drinking my favorite beer.... Busch Light. How about you?

Hello:

I have an AR500 plate that I would like to mount statically to a post.

Should the post (and plate) be canted forward to reduce the chance of ricochets?

If so, is there a recommended angle?

Thanks

We have a coyote kill thread so why not one dedicated to the smaller bastards?

Here’s some ground squirrels in Wisconsin that will burrow no more…


17 Hornet





22LR CCI SV


Not sure which gun.

Just got this email that it released and available. Looks like they cleaned up the glass to address the recurring issue. Interested in seeing what the new coloring is if anyone gets their hands on a pair

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Thanks

Title.

I'm not a suppressor expert by any means. I did some research and decided on the Radiant as it checked the most boxes for me. Light weight, Full auto rated, no barrel length restriction and relatively low back pressure. It made it to my dealer yesterday and I just got back from doing the paperwork/Efile. Without having shot it yet I gotta say this seems like a well built can. Anyone else here have one? How does yours shoot?. I plan to run mine on a long range hunting rig as well as my "battle" rifles.

I would like the heavy chassis systems for a 300 Norma or 300 prc but I don’t want to change calibers. Is it worth going with them? If not what good builders should I look at?

Accuracy and reliability are primary desires.

Looking in the Px for a used one too, but don’t see too many options.

Thanks

Selling my Bushnell XRS2 H59 reticle. I bought this here about a year ago and upgraded shortly after. I believe I still have the original box. Looking for $825 PP OR Venmo.

Mount is not included.

Court ruled game wardens were pulling unconstitutional shenanigans when going onto private property without a warrant to place trail cameras, etc to surveil hunter activities.

Good article

This uses Tesla as an example, but applies to all EV’s. Just that the left has a hard-on for Elon Musk since he crapped in their Twitter sandbox. So it’s a pile-on to trash Tesla. Any EV has the same basic breakdown. Including hybrids.

But this is a great analysis of the “real” footprint of an EV!






How dare you!

Sirhr

0-20 nils of elevation in 5 mil increments. For 34mm scopes. Made my 3000 yard hit with it.
$460 shipped

$325 Spuhr SP-4601, shipped

SP-4601 34mm 20moa 1.18” comes with box, manual, leveling wedge, super clean

I’m hoping some of you with some ECCO machine experience can help me out here. I have an AAC 762-SD with the 51T mount. It was my first rifle can and for its day it was a fine suppressor, but ever since I got my SiCo Omega it’s basically just been sitting in the safe. I recently changed barrels on my AI AE and decided to put the 762-SD on and try it out again. My results were less than stellar. Even after fitting the mount to the suppressor, my groups are noticeably larger with the cannon than without. For example, today when I went to the range I was seeing 1.11 minute groups with the can vs .78 minute groups without. To confirm this wasn’t a one off or a barrel specific issue, I also tried it on my 6.5CM AI and my groups were similarly larger after putting the can on.

My theory is that the main issue is in the mount. I just don’t think there’s any way to make the 51T mount as precise and repeatable as newer mounting systems, even after fitting. To solve this and not have to buy a new suppressor, I am considering having Ecco machine swap the factory 51T interface for the universal 1.375-24 interface. I believe* that would allow me to use an ASR mount as well as the direct thread mount that came with my Omega, which is currently gathering dust in its box. Before I commit to this though, I’d like to get some information and advice from those of who’ve already walked this path. My main questions are thus -

1: Am I correct in assuming that the most likely issue with my accuracy is the mount and not the actual suppressor itself? Have those of you who’ve gone this route with a 762-SD or similar AAC can seen appreciable increases in accuracy and precision after going to an ASR (or similar, modern QD system) or direct thread mount, or is the actual suppressor and it’s design at issue here?

2: Am I correct in assuming that my SiCo Omega direct thread adapter will work with an AAC can that’s been converted to the 1.375-24 interface?

3: since I’d like to keep this suppressor QD compatible, is the ASR mount an acceptable way to go for a precision rifle can?

4: For those of you who have done this or something similar, what were your general thoughts on the experience and results? Anyone other than Ecco worth looking at?

I’d love to hear feedback on any part of my diagnosis or my plan. I’d aLao appreciate any info on other’s experiences who have tried this or something similar in the past. I should also add; I am aware that there is an upgrade program through AAC that would basically turn this thing into a Ranger 7, however it’s much more expensive and I really, really like the tone and look of the old school AAC cans, especially on an AI rifle. I’d like to keep that style and tone if possible. Thank you all in advance!