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The "New" Barrett MRAD Thread!!!!!!

The Mk22 ASR kit comes with the following barrels (which are all available now on the Barrett website):
  • .338 Norma Mag, 27" Stainless Steel, with 1:9.4 twist
  • .300 Norma Mag, 26" Stainless Steel, with 1:8 twist
  • .308, 20" Stainless Steel, with 1:8 twist

The MK22 barrels are heavier, fluted, and have the muzzle brake for the AML 338 suppressor.
 
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Thanks! Is that the exact color or just something similar? Looks lighter on cerakote site for some reason.

Probably just lighting making it look slightly different. Combined with different filters and after effects but they advertise it as coyote tan mate
 
I've heard from multiple professionals that it's Cerakote E-170. Barrett ultimately did my new barrel though so I'm not certain.
 
Has anyone switched the Trigger to a Timney Single Stage and what is the lowest and safest possibe weight ?
I maybe could get a good Price on a used MRAD, but if i go that route, i will need a new Trigger
I´m used to shoot Tiggers in my Rifles around 4-5 Ounces, i´ve read that someone set the Timney to around 14 Ounces, which would be okay for me.
Is that the lowest Setting or is it possible to go even lower in Pull Weight ?
And, who does it compare to let´s say a Bix´n Andy, Jewell, Faré or something the like ?
 
Has anyone switched the Trigger to a Timney Single Stage and what is the lowest and safest possibe weight ?
I maybe could get a good Price on a used MRAD, but if i go that route, i will need a new Trigger
I´m used to shoot Tiggers in my Rifles around 4-5 Ounces, i´ve read that someone set the Timney to around 14 Ounces, which would be okay for me.
Is that the lowest Setting or is it possible to go even lower in Pull Weight ?
And, who does it compare to let´s say a Bix´n Andy, Jewell, Faré or something the like ?
4-5 oz (0.25 lb)? That seems incredibly unsafe. Maybe I am out of the loop, but I always thought the bare minimum weight is 1.5-2lbs on any rifle.
 
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I´ve never had a problem or discharge, since i do not shoot anything dynamic, just Target shooting from the Bench or Prone.
1.5 or more lbs feels like moving a Mountain with my Finger. If a rifle has a Trigger that can´t be changed to a lighter weight one or set below 1.5 lbs, i´m out.
Maybe on a Big Magnum Cartridge i can see myself using a 10 oz Trigger, but anything smaller, i use 4-5 oz Triggers.
On my 6.5 Creed i´m right now around 5 oz, which feels heavy for me.


Edit: Maybe i should point out, that i would use the Mrad for (E)LR only, and nothing else. In other circumstances i would agree, that 4-5 oz are unsafe.
 
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RESULTS:

Barrett MRAD (newest generation manufactured in 2023) chambered in 300 Norma Mag with a Bartlein 1:8 twist barrel spun up by Southern Precision Rifles aka Bugholes.

Factory Norma 230 grain hybrid ammo.

18 rounds fired in total at 100 meters.

Three, 5-shot groups measuring in at an average of .327 MOA.

The last group fired was a 3-round, .07 MOA group seen attached.

Very, very happy with the results.
 

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RESULTS:

Barrett MRAD (newest generation manufactured in 2023) chambered in 300 Norma Mag with a Bartlein 1:8 twist barrel spun up by Southern Precision Rifles aka Bugholes.

Factory Norma 230 grain hybrid ammo.

18 rounds fired in total at 100 meters.

Three, 5-shot groups measuring in at an average of .327 MOA.

The last group fired was a 3-round, .07 MOA group seen attached.

Very, very happy with the results.
Congrats! Gotta love Bugholes!!! Their barrel making skills rock. I've told this story before but when I did training with Chase Stroud he kept asking... "now who did this barrel for you?" He was super impressed with the accuracy.
 
I have a Barrett MRAD in 6.5 cm and will be putting a Vortex Razor Gen 3 6-36x56 on it. Curious to know what others are using for a mount or rings in similar situation. Rail is 20 MOA. Thanks in advance.
 
I have a Barrett MRAD in 6.5 cm and will be putting a Vortex Razor Gen 3 6-36x56 on it. Curious to know what others are using for a mount or rings in similar situation. Rail is 20 MOA. Thanks in advance.
Rail is 10 MIL or about 35 MOA. You’ll want a 1.5” mount at least.
 
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The 10 MIL rail was an earlier MRAD version. MRAD model #18497 specifically list the rail as 20 MOA.
 
I have no idea, but I ordered a Barrett MRAD in 6.5cm folding FDE from Europtics and it will arrive tomorrow. The specs say 20 MOA rail ?? If you take a look at their website you will see what I mean.
 
I have no idea, but I ordered a Barrett MRAD in 6.5cm folding FDE from Europtics and it will arrive tomorrow. The specs say 20 MOA rail ?? If you take a look at their website you will see what I mean.
Barrett MRAD model # 18497 specs reads "Integrated into the Barrett MRAD rifle's 7000 series aluminum upper receiver is a picatinny M1913 rail with 20 MOA taper."
 
I would not count, even a little, on retailer website copy to be correct. IMO if you bought a new MRAD, I would expect it to have a 10 MIL rail per the Barrett site unless it's old stock. They've all (MRAD, SMR, ELR) officially been 10 MIL since like spring of 2021, around when the Mk22 brought about a host of other changes.
 
I would not count, even a little, on retailer website copy to be correct. IMO if you bought a new MRAD, I would expect it to have a 10 MIL rail per the Barrett site unless it's old stock. They've all (MRAD, SMR, ELR) officially been 10 MIL since like spring of 2021, around when the Mk22 brought about a host of other changes.
I emailed Europtics and referred them to their Barrett MRAD's specification description and requested a clarification as to 20 MOA or 10 MIL rail. Really doesn't matter to me except that I was trying to figure out what mount or rings I would be using. 20 MOA or 10 MIL makes a big difference.
 
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I emailed Europtics and referred them to their Barrett MRAD's specification description and requested a clarification as to 20 MOA or 10 MIL rail. Really doesn't matter to me except that I was trying to figure out what mount or rings I would be using. 20 MOA or 10 MIL makes a big difference
 
Thanks to BoreBear, TheOE800, Ehtacs for your responses. Europtics emailed me that the rail is 30 MOA. Disappointed in their specification write up. Thanks again.
 
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I think 30 MOA is also wrong - I love EuroOptic, but here is Barrett's 2024 catalog:


Every MRAD variant including the ELR has a 10 MIL rail (~34 MOA). Personally, I use a 0 moa Spuhr mount as there is enough elevation in the rail for my needs.
Thanks for the info. Thinking the EuroOptic web page specs were correct, I was going to use a 20 MOA mount. I'm glad I raised the issue here and didn't spend a lot of time and money on buying and installing the wrong mount. I agree that EuroOptic is a good firm. Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the info - much appreciated.
Dunno if it's too late, but consider the Badger C1 instead. We've had a few of the spuhr mounts crack through the mounting screws, even though they were torqued to spec. Not saying that's normal or that Spuhr is no good, because they are, just that the Badger set is a good option too. I prefer the Badger and Marti is just such a good dude i like giving him my money.
 

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Dunno if it's too late, but consider the Badger C1 instead. We've had a few of the spuhr mounts crack through the mounting screws, even though they were torqued to spec. Not saying that's normal or that Spuhr is no good, because they are, just that the Badger set is a good option too. I prefer the Badger and Marti is just such a good dude i like giving him my money.
I’ve had three or four Spuhr rail clams crack. I started reducing the torque by 5lb-in. Not sure if that helps as I haven’t wanted to swap scopes. Two back to back broke and Spuhr basically sent me a link to purchase a new version of mount all together. I have 6 mounts total and that felt like a slap in the face to me.
 
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Dunno if it's too late, but consider the Badger C1 instead. We've had a few of the spuhr mounts crack through the mounting screws, even though they were torqued to spec. Not saying that's normal or that Spuhr is no good, because they are, just that the Badger set is a good option too. I prefer the Badger and Marti is just such a good dude i like giving him my money.
I received the rifle yesterday and wanted to shoot it right away. Went to a local gun shop and picked up a set of Nightforce 34 mm ultralite rings 1.5" high with a six screw design. I appreciate the Badger C1 and Spuhr recommendations. Thanks
 
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Dunno if it's too late, but consider the Badger C1 instead. We've had a few of the spuhr mounts crack through the mounting screws, even though they were torqued to spec. Not saying that's normal or that Spuhr is no good, because they are, just that the Badger set is a good option too. I prefer the Badger and Marti is just such a good dude i like giving him my money.
I torqued my Spuhr to their spec with fix-it-sticks and I had only shot it a few times before I noticed cracking on mounting piece that holds it on. They replaced it but I'm the type of guy that when something fails on a product and has happened to mulitple people, I'm done. You shouldn't be testing your gear on the public, but instead during development, and then do batch testing from time to time. I bought the Nightforce mounts used on the MK22. People they were picked because they were low bid but I've never heard issues of them cracking or losing zero.
 
I torqued my Spuhr to their spec with fix-it-sticks and I had only shot it a few times before I noticed cracking on mounting piece that holds it on. They replaced it but I'm the type of guy that when something fails on a product and has happened to mulitple people, I'm done. You shouldn't be testing your gear on the public, but instead during development, and then do batch testing from time to time. I bought the Nightforce mounts used on the MK22. People they were picked because they were low bid but I've never heard issues of them cracking or losing zero.
I never had a Spuhr mount fail however, I agree completely about never using a product again if it once failed. So far, the Nightforce rings appear to be OK. I chose the rings rather than the mount because I wanted a little more flexibility in mounting my send it level.
 
I’ve had three or four Spuhr rail clams crack. I started reducing the torque by 5lb-in. Not sure if that helps as I haven’t wanted to swap scopes. Two back to back broke and Spuhr basically sent me a link to purchase a new version of mount all together. I have 6 mounts total and that felt like a slap in the face to me.
Oh dude, that sucks. Sorry that happened hey. I still have 1 Spuhr Mount. I think they fixed all the issues so there's probably no risk going forward, just something to consider. Also, I really really like how the Badger C1 mount looks. 90% of the battle is looking cool, and I need all the fucking help I can get in that department :ROFLMAO:
 
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I torqued my Spuhr to their spec with fix-it-sticks and I had only shot it a few times before I noticed cracking on mounting piece that holds it on. They replaced it but I'm the type of guy that when something fails on a product and has happened to mulitple people, I'm done. You shouldn't be testing your gear on the public, but instead during development, and then do batch testing from time to time. I bought the Nightforce mounts used on the MK22. People they were picked because they were low bid but I've never heard issues of them cracking or losing zero.
The Nightforce is a good option too. Just something to be aware of; The repeated slamming closed of the receiver MIGHT be causing a shift in zero.
We have to open the receiver and remove the bolt after every serial/range trip for safety.
The receiver is opened, bolt removed, rifle cleared, receiver closed, move to new FP, open receiver, insert bolt, close receiver, load.
We've asked about and though no one has directly stated it has happened to them, or that they are willing to blame a POI shift on the optic shifting, by all logic, if you're too rough closing the receiver it COULD cause the mechanics of the optic to move.
We have a MARK 5 HD on the MRAD in the C1 Mounts.
I ran the MRAD in a competition and about 3/4 the way through I had a POI shift .3 high and about .4 left.
Could've been the heat and just being shit that made me change my firing position and cause the shift, but when we tested it on paper, it had definitely shifted. Process of elimination would suggest that, if all torque is good, ammo hasn't changed, then it's got to be the optic itself.
Admittedly, i'm just propping it up and letting the upper receiver fall under it's own weight and slam closed, so it's probably my fault anyhow.
 
308 Bros, how does this shoot with 1:8 twist? That sounds mighty fast of a twist for most 308 loads.
Zero issue running the 1/8 with 308 bud.

Haven't gone lower than 168gr at this point though but shouldn't be any issues.

We are running 185gr FGMM ammo and it's insanely consistent for factory ammo. ES/SD is sitting at 8fps on average for nearly 200 rounds now.

Ours has the 17" barrel and we are still making reliable impacts on MOA targets at 1000y with it.

Couldn't be happier with the performance.

Quick down and dirty,

(MV x 720) / Twist Rate = RPM

You want it to be under 300,000 typically.

With a 20" barrel running 168s at 2620fps

(2620 x 720) / 8 = 235,800. No dramas what-so-ever
 
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Ours has the 17" barrel and we are still making reliable impacts on MOA targets at 1000y with it.
Oh, you're perfect! What's the OAL with the stock folded? I was looking specifically at getting a 17, but not sure if it will fit properly in my big case. Ideally it's small enough to fit in there with my wife's rifle with a folder, allowing us to just take one case on trips.
 
Oh, you're perfect! What's the OAL with the stock folded? I was looking specifically at getting a 17, but not sure if it will fit properly in my big case. Ideally it's small enough to fit in there with my wife's rifle with a folder, allowing us to just take one case on trips.
Just shy of 32"
 
Hi,

Does anyone know about any aftermarket rear stock that fits MRAD? I saw a video on YouTube where it was fitted a stock that had more adjustment. Particularly that you could rotate the recoil pad. I feel for my own part that the rifle twist into my shoulder pit when I shoot with 338. It also looked much better.
Did you ever figure this out? What video did you see it in?