Search results

Never mind the W3 folder...

1. Remove bolt, mag, scope and all other accessories. 2. Unscrew 2 forend screws about ⅜". Pull forend down and slide off (4 mm hex). 2. Unscrew rearmost 2 screws. One from above and one through behind the trigger guard (4 and 5 mm hex). 3. Unscrew middle and foremost action screws (4 mm...

This one: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/trg-rifles-picture-thread.48973/ I had forgotten...

No. We all make mistakes. 😁👍

It was not this (the TRG pics) thread that went wrong and didn't accept new postings. So resurrecting it was neat imo. 👍

https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/bravo-chassis-rimfire/ Choose CZ 457 in the drop down for inlet. This is what I'm planning for my 22lr PRS build, but with a W3 folder and an enclosed forend.

KRG Bravo with a tool-les LOP? Depends on the size of the pre-teens I guess.

CTR mags over here (I'm in EU too) are about $150 and up depending on source. Second hand are cheaper. One of the "problems" with printed TRG mags is space. Two of the three lugs run just over the lips and the bolt doesn't reach low enough with increased lip thickness. The TRG doesn't come in...

Or. Buy a Tikka CTR mag and print a new bottom plate for it. Or a Waters Rifleman. Also cheaper.

I'm working on it. Might be a month or two yet.

'Cause the pin is not sold separately... which is kind of good since the bolt stop is not hardened and if the pin brakes and you continue using the rifle (and continue to run the bolt too hard) the hole in the bolt stop gets elongated.

Then buy a new A1?

A TRG, a W3 and you're there.

The reason for not being able to upgrade to a A1 chassis is availability, if I'm correctly informed. The numbers are simply that there is not enough demand for a chassis at about $3500-5000. (I've asked Sako as directly as possible). A KRG W3 or a SICS would be a better option at the moment...

Congrats! Buying all available spare parts seems a bit excessive. The A1 models are the same old action in a chassis, so parts should be available for a long time. I haven't heard of many firing pins breaking, but do as you wish. Buy a "bolt stop kit", an "extractor spring kit" and you're set.

Yeah, 'cause all real shooters know that 100 yds/m is too far to judge 22lr accuracy due to wind and ammo inconsistency.

IMHO N140 or N150 doesn't matter much. I've got a hotter load for 175 gr bullets with N140 for targets beyond 1k (m).

My guess is as you get to know and more used to it the group size will decrease. Being hammer forged the barrel wont need a break in, but a bit of fouling wont hurt. (I suppose you know this already...) I got a load with 175 gr Scenar-L/SMK that is a bit slow but precise. @VargmatII uses this...

Had some trouble with a new mag where there were grades causing scratches along the case when feeding. Some filing and a bit of sanding took care of that. Then again I like to modify and tinker (and am able to do so without making a mess of things most of the time). Unfortunately, as i see it...

As expected I would say... 😉😁👍 Did you chrono?