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Shooting factory 5.56 and 223 loads in a Hawk Hill barrel 223 wylde. It's a surefire legacy can FA556-212 ( 223 hole) on an MB556K brake mount. I have had some odd fliers with AAC 5.56 77gr SMK loads and that is the group where a round mysteriously missed the target.

I have a Geissele alignment rod and it's perfectly aligned.

Eh, I have been shooting groups almost exclusively and I had one round completely miss a target at 200yds. It was very odd and I just couldnt figure it out. So I am wondering if that was due to an endcap strike. Im not too worried about it, but I also don't know if an endcap needs to be uniform...

Does this look like an end cap strike, and would it effect accuracy? Hard to get a good picture, but I noticed a small divot at 12 O'clock on the end cap. I cleaned it up with a scraper and some q tips to removed carbon and it appears it is a divot. Not sure if those are cracks or scratches...

I understand that, but a number is an unmistakable reference, shaded squares can't be dialed as quick I wouldn't imagine

I have light strikes on some 5.56 loads in my origin action. (Wylde chamber) They said it's the cocking piece. There is a different one they said I could try, but it will make lock/lift more difficult. IMI MK262 is the main load that has light strikes like 60% of the time. And many still won't...

Not to hijack, but I thought I was pretty settled on an S3 5-25, but what's the deal with the parallax knob? No numbers, just shaded rectangles? Does anyone find that to be a pain?

Where did you get that idea from? I got this barrel. Shot it twice and cleaned it normally before getting the borescope. I never tried to "clean away" damage. OP's pictures and the longer I continue to see no new marks in my barrel, the more I believe it was marred from machining.

Maybe not. I hope not. But I have read many times about borescopes causing damage. Same with cleaning rods that should be softer than barrel material. Plus, I did get it wedged like an idiot when I first got it. (.223 bore is barely larger than the Teslong) The photos from the OP had me question...

I have similar marks in a Hawk Hill barrel I got in November of last year. Not as bad as yours. But similar looking, just inside the muzzle. Are you spinning the borescope after entering through the muzzle? My barrel is a 223, so there is not much wiggle room with the teslong, and I got it...

Does anyone oil the bearings of their cleaning rod to keep it spinning nicely? I have a boretech rod, but not sure if it's sealed or even possible to oil. It's squeaky occasionally which had me wonder.

I didnt know these existed, so sorry, I can't help. Interesting they use the stock spring. Not to hijack, but the Gen 1 was the 8rd mag no longer sold correct?

It looks like new condition. I would also say ~1700-2200. A new 686 used to be 1900 new, now their 2300. No adjustable comb, but Monte Carlo and the high rib are less common features.

If you can get a short action (didn't think they still made them for 223) that's what I would do. Chassis options much more limited with a mini action Edit: just saw this is an old post

I like the looks. Likely out of my price range though.

I used to have a vanguard in 223 with a heavier barrel. Bolt was fluted and was very smooth. I'm not familiar with the stock you are saying it came with, but I would buy an MDT or KRG chassis ( 2 good, but inexpensive options) that fits it and run with it. KRG might not support LA Howa. Optic +...

Factory ammo? I'm not real familiar with 6.5 creed, but is it common to use a harder "Mil" primer? I'm guessing yes, since a lot of people have 6.5 creed semi autos with a floating firing pin. As Origin stated above, it can be fixed at the expense of bolt lift/ lock. I am tempted to see how...

There are CRB prefits at Blue Mountain Precision and TS Customs I see

its very tight in a .223 bore just fyi. I got the rigid and hook it to my PC, which is no problem. But it can easily get wedged and scratch/gouge the bore in a .223. I forget the diameter, but its just slightly larger than .22. I also use a bore guide, but you have to go from the muzzle as well...

My legacy fa556212 can have some wiggle. The slot in the muzzle adapter is a hair larger than the pin in the suppressor. Like you, I cannot tighten the collar anymore, but the can will move left/right a 1/16" if I twist it back and forth on my ARs. On my bolt gun the barrel is so thick, the lock...