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Create a channel Learn moreI’ve seen some pretty wild builds with the origin being the heart, granted it’s a “budget” action but with the recoil lug from hunts long range it opens up the world of TL3 prefit. There is a guy locally to me that running one with a Zco in a beautiful manners stock that wanted a tl3 but couldn’t justify the price increase since the origin is so rock solid.I have an odd question…. Being that the Origin is a budget action, why do I see so many origins dressed up with top shelf scopes, chassis systems, and barrels? I understand the top actions are no more accurate, but if you’re dropping that kinda coin on everything else , why not drop another 3-500$ on a premier action to go with it?
Coming from the guy who had an Origin and loves it….
I have an odd question…. Being that the Origin is a budget action, why do I see so many origins dressed up with top shelf scopes, chassis systems, and barrels? I understand the top actions are no more accurate, but if you’re dropping that kinda coin on everything else , why not drop another 3-500$ on a premier action to go with it?
Coming from the guy who had an Origin and loves it….
I’ve seen some pretty wild builds with the origin being the heart, granted it’s a “budget” action but with the recoil lug from hunts long range it opens up the world of TL3 prefit. There is a guy locally to me that running one with a Zco in a beautiful manners stock that wanted a tl3 but couldn’t justify the price increase since the origin is so rock solid.
I’ve never seen/heard of anybody doing that but I guess it’s possible if you’ve got the time and skill.Anyone ever convert a Origin to a straight bolt handle? Wondering how much work to weld an Origin bolt up/re-configure and drill-thread for a TL3 style straight drop bolt handle.
i think the easiest way would just make a quick an angled extension that goes between the bolt and knobI’ve never seen/heard of anybody doing that but I guess it’s possible if you’ve got the time and skill.
I haven’t had a TL3 since they started being DLCd out of the gate. But i had a TL3, built dads gun on an SR3, and my brother has an origin.If I wanted an Origin with a straight bolt handle, I'd just buy a TL3.
Anyone own both, how different are the bolts anyways?
Not the same at all. The TL3 and Origin have different bolt bodies completely.I meant how different are the two bolt’s dimensions..?
Close/not the same at all/interchangeable..?
As ray stated they are completely different, I own both and thought it would be cool if the bolts bodies were interchangeable. I think I tried to swap the bodies and it’s was an instant nope that’s not going to work.If I wanted an Origin with a straight bolt handle, I'd just buy a TL3.
Anyone own both, how different are the bolts anyways?
I looked at that as well, no go. I have a couple Origins and a TL3 that I love and use. Seems like I have more stocks that accept straight bolt handles than stocks for swept ones. Was just wondering if swept handle could be converted so I could swaps stocks out easier for diff rifle uses (thermal yotes/long range match/etc.).As ray stated they are completely different, I own both and thought it would be cool if the bolts bodies were interchangeable. I think I tried to swap the bodies and it’s was an instant nope that’s not going to work.
I'm sure a competent gunsmith/machinist could, either by milling off the swept part of the handle and TIG welding a new piece on straight, then contouring, polishing and refinishing or by cutting it off, retapping and inserting a 5/8-24 thread stud to reattach a bolt handle. It might be difficult to match the finish on the rest of the receiver is the only issue I can think of.I looked at that as well, no go. I have a couple Origins and a TL3 that I love and use. Seems like I have more stocks that accept straight bolt handles than stocks for swept ones. Was just wondering if swept handle could be converted so I could swaps stocks out easier for diff rifle uses (thermal yotes/long range match/etc.).
I'm sure a competent gunsmith/machinist could, either by milling off the swept part of the handle and TIG welding a new piece on straight, then contouring, polishing and refinishing or by cutting it off, retapping and inserting a 5/8-24 thread stud to reattach a bolt handle. It might be difficult to match the finish on the rest of the receiver is the only issue I can think of.
Not the same at all. The TL3 and Origin have different bolt bodies completely.
Thanks - Ray
YOU try reading, I was saying that a swept bolt HANDLE could be changed to a straight bolt handle (the comment I replied to) by doing one of those methods. I didn't say anything about changing the bolts completely. Just the handle, so you could have the same straight bolt handle on both actions, regardless of other specs.Try reading.
Ray’s post is 941.
Your’s is 944.
I literally have an origin. Its possible.Nope.
Go away.
Look at an Origin in your hand before you say silly things
Buy a TL3 if you need a straight handle.
since you want to be dense this is Ray, and he designed/makes the actions.I literally have an origin. Its possible.
I know who Ray is, and he's awesome. Please go reread who I was commenting towards and what I actually said.since you want to be dense this is Ray, and he designed/makes the actions.
Fella at my last match was shooting an origin in 6arc, mdt mags. He never had any feed issues, and surprisingly shot really well in some funky winds with factory ammo. It was in an xlr element chassis.Has anyone put together/run an Origin with 6ARC..?
How's it going, which mags, how does it feed..?
Now that is a sound point, as always.We live in a modern era of machining and engineering...pretty much anything is possible.
The question should more or less be: is it worth it to have a bolt manufactured to fit a certain receiver? Or, does it make more sense to have a product with mostly the same features for $400 more?
That's up to the owner of the action. We're not making straight bolt handled bolts for the Origin. That doesn't mean it can't be done.
I don't know if anyone told you but a barrel is recommended on these...And so it begins…. My second Origin.
Thanks to Paul at Evolved Ballistics for the great price and quick shipping!
View attachment 8155654
I don't know if anyone told you but a barrel is recommended on these...
I personally think the newer origins feel a lil better than the old ones. My first was purchased in 2018, and got another last year. The newer one feels a bit smoother out the box than my old one that has had near 5k rounds through it.
Perhaps. I know the first few years were 4140 with dlc bolt and nitride body(could be reversed, but I know dis-similar coatings) and the stainless may now have a different coating system. But I personally feel the new one runs a lil smoother than my old one. Both great actions along with my tl3.Stainless vs. 4140 receiver maybe?
I know my second one in 2021 had a slightly different firing pin sear that reduced cock on close compared to my first from not that log after introduction. I emailed customer support asking about it and they sent me the new version baronet assembly to swap out for my first. Now both are silky smooth (though I didnt mind a bit of positive cocking).Perhaps. I know the first few years were 4140 with dlc bolt and nitride body(could be reversed, but I know dis-similar coatings) and the stainless may now have a different coating system. But I personally feel the new one runs a lil smoother than my old one. Both great actions along with my tl3.
My first origin had the original cocking piece, and with a TT diamond it felt bad compared to a properly timed action. Ray hooked me up with a new assembly that had 15-20k cut from cocking piece and that helped tremendously! The new one with a TT special installed feels very good as well. A BixnAndy will still give a lil cock on close, but it's very minimal.I know my second one in 2021 had a slightly different firing pin sear that reduced cock on close compared to my first from not that log after introduction. I emailed customer support asking about it and they sent me the new version baronet assembly to swap out for my first. Now both are silky smooth (though I didnt mind a bit of positive cocking).
New on the left, old on the right
View attachment 8156197
Well damn, guess thats not the difference in feel you noticed then. Must be the different metals and treatment thereof.My first origin had the original cocking piece, and with a TT diamond it felt bad compared to a properly timed action. Ray hooked me up with a new assembly that had 15-20k cut from cocking piece and that helped tremendously! The new one with a TT special installed feels very good as well. A BixnAndy will still give a lil cock on close, but it's very minimal.
It's when cycling the bolt. Its odd the new one actually feels slightly more rough(wrong word, but like you feel what would be like a texture almost) when running the bolt, but it has less tendency try and bind up, you can side load and it just glides through, the older one, if you're running bolt perfect with zero bind, feels like glass, but if you're running fast and hard and not perfect manipulation, it sometimes exhibits sticky/bind feeling. Lesson here: don't run bolt like a retard and all is good. I'm still very happy with both of them, just an observation running them both side by side along with my tl3.Well damn, guess thats not the difference in feel you noticed then. Must be the different metals and treatment thereof.
My first origin was serial #6, I sold it a few years ago. I bought another origin a year ago and thought it had a different feel to it then my original one. Glad you confirmed my suspicions.I know my second one in 2021 had a slightly different firing pin sear that reduced cock on close compared to my first from not that log after introduction. I emailed customer support asking about it and they sent me the new version baronet assembly to swap out for my first. Now both are silky smooth (though I didnt mind a bit of positive cocking).
New on the left, old on the right
View attachment 8156197
View attachment 8156204
How does that 223 feed? I have a origin SA in 223, and it feeds reliably if I run the bolt fast, but if I run the bolt slow, the bolt face face won’t grab the round and it pops out and jams.My second Origin build. It will be used for centerfire training PRS and occasional TAC division matches. Save barrel life on my 6mm creedmoor setup almost identically.
Zermatt Origin SA .223 boltface
MPA Matrix Pro in gunmetal cerakote
Bartlein 26 inch heavy palma chambered in .223 Rem by Southern Precision rifles for Bug Nut
APA Little Bastard muzzle brake
Triggertech Diamond single stage flat
MPA BA Scope mount 0moa 1.125
Vortex Razor Gen III 6-36x56 mrad
Area 419 17 inch universal Arcalock rail
Gray Ops CNC internal (5) and 2 external steel weights
View attachment 8187415
My set up is a little bit different from the poster above. It's has a .223 proof barrel and is in an XRS chassis but it runs fine with plastic MDT mags.How does that 223 feed? I have a origin SA in 223, and it feeds reliably if I run the bolt fast, but if I run the bolt slow, the bolt face face won’t grab the round and it pops out and jams.
How does that 223 feed? I have a origin SA in 223, and it feeds reliably if I run the bolt fast, but if I run the bolt slow, the bolt face face won’t grab the round and it pops out and jams.
My set up is a little bit different from the poster above. It's has a .223 proof barrel and is in an XRS chassis but it runs fine with plastic MDT mags.
I’m currently running accurate mags (metal) with a SA origin in 223 in a mpa comp.Have you tried the MDT steel mags?