Wonder if he's going to make this in a QC barrel system
a smith worth their salt should be able to make any action into a QC setup. but I agree, the only next step would make this an option from the factory.
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I thought I posted this early last year, but you caught me fitting another this morning.what did you do to the AICS mags? receive the back so of the mag wall a little? love to see some pics. I have the same recipe as your pic. foundation with M5 metal and the stupid AICS mags are not loving life at all.
Agree! Love'em, they run like butter! But I'm not paying $200+ for a 12rd AW mag...Run AW.
Who makes 12 rounders?Agree! Love'em, they run like butter! But I'm not paying $200+ for 12rd AW mag...
Some cat here on the hide was cutting them apart and modifying them...$$Who makes 12 rounders?
If you can find them….
I thought I posted this early last year, but you caught me fitting another this morning.
First I give it clearance for the back of the CDG receiver. Then using a safe edge file, take a few thousands off latch catch until the bolt doesn’t drag on the feed lips.
They still run great in my AW cut & standard AICS Impacts also. Almost all my comp guns are in Foundations with Hawkins M5 DBM with their standard mag latch.
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Yea, me too, I’m hoping someone makes a 12 rounder commercially soon.Ah. You can do that yourself. I thought you had a line on oe ones.
Yea, me too, I’m hoping someone makes a 12 rounder commercially soon.
By the way, for what it’s worth, it does not appear to be moving forward… obviously it moves forward when I pull the triggerAgree^, check to see if your cocking piece is moving forward in the bolt shroud while closing the bolt.
All you need to do is trim the rear action screw, it sticks out a little far and doesn’t allow the bolt to cycle. 2 minute job on a bench grinder. And adjust the mag latch another 2 minute job. Done.Would the XLR Element 4.0 magnesium chassis need modification for the ARC Coup De Grace action? Also, how does the CDG action compare to other companies?
By the way, for what it’s worth, it does not appear to be moving forward… obviously it moves forward when I pull the trigger
All you need to do is trim the rear action screw, it sticks out a little far and doesn’t allow the bolt to cycle. 2 minute job on a bench grinder. And adjust the mag latch another 2 minute job. Done.
Yes, that’s another way to skin the catOMG look at those machine marks !
or use a washer on the action screw.
The machine marks comment was written earlier this morning for another post and not deleted, not what you wrote just in case anyone is wondering.Yes, that’s another way to skin the cat
I don't think it's the extractor, but to check for rubbing put some sharpe ink on the face of the extractor and repeat. If it's rubbing the breech, you'll see some ink removed.Got the rifle home… swapped out the original extractor and bolt parts… pulled the bullet from a case, and put an empty case in the barrel:
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With the original extractor configuration it fires without issue…
No idea what is causing problems… but it may be assumed that the new extractor is hitting the conical breach somehow. ???
This right here.or use a washer on the action screw.
I prefer the washer method. I have a small stash of pocket lock washers that work great for this.Yes, that’s another way to skin the cat
Yep check right here for the new extractor rubbing.Got the rifle home… swapped out the original extractor and bolt parts… pulled the bullet from a case, and put an empty case in the barrel:
View attachment 8341151
With the original extractor configuration it fires without issue…
No idea what is causing problems… but it may be assumed that the new extractor is hitting the conical breach somehow. ???
That was also covered here earlier, but I can’t remember which ended up being correct.question:Is it possible to put the new pin for the pin/spring/extractor retrofit in backwards?
I note one side is beveled and the other is flat….
I’d give ARC a call on Monday, see if others have had a similar situation.Yeah, I looked at it, but it looks like the painting he use is may be beveled on each end… and that’s why I asked the question.
My recollection is that the flat side faces the spring and the tapered end goes toward the extractor.question:Is it possible to put the new pin for the pin/spring/extractor retrofit in backwards?
I note one side is beveled and the other is flat….
So I do have a little bit of rubbing going on according to my pictures…Yep check right here for the new extractor rubbing.
My original just touches & I haven't put the replacement in.
Read on here somewhere about the new replacement hitting the cone breach that was set up for the original extractor.
The ARC firing pins fit tight, so a little misalignment may well cause the pin to bind.
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This is not news I wanted to hear…the more I hear the more I think I may just sell mine when I get it.Just to stir the pot Reddit lore says these things had issues at Mammoth, multiple shooters’ CDGs went down.
I haven’t changed triggers recently but did replace the extractor. If I can get out to the range I’ll check my main CDG.
Those pics of the old extractor...so its black...or is it the new one which is silver??? Hard to tell from the pics.So I do have a little bit of rubbing going on according to my pictures…
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The pictures don’t do it justice because it’s a very little bit when you’re looking at it with your eyeball… But the camera seems to make it look much larger than it is.
For what it’s worth: PVA finished the barrel for me, and it’s one of their Osprey barrels.
Mine is also a PVA Osprey.So I do have a little bit of rubbing going on according to my pictures…
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The pictures don’t do it justice because it’s a very little bit when you’re looking at it with your eyeball… But the camera seems to make it look much larger than it is.
For what it’s worth: PVA finished the barrel for me, and it’s one of their Osprey barrels.
Interestingly, that bolt says 473B on it, and my other one is a 473.Mine is also a PVA Osprey.
From your Picture I now suspect the new extractor was forcing the case head over & up off the bolt face.
Edit: I see brass @ that location in your second pic.
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That would explain it!Interestingly, that bolt says 473B on it, and my other one is a 473.
There is a slight difference with how that piece of steel was machined between the two.
I have figured out what the problem is and the problem is is that one of the two extractor they sent me says 378 on it:
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Smoother than the Timney 700 Light 2 stage?For what it’s worth, that Huber trigger is butter!
It’s a minor difference IMO, mostly in how the trigger breaks.Smoother than the Timney 700 Light 2 stage?
ooops, wrong again. Its my super power.Per e mail from ARC regarding the orientation of the pin behind the extractor. The tapered end of the pin should face the spring. As mentioned in post 6366.
I don't think it's the extractor, but to check for rubbing put some sharpe ink on the face of the extractor and repeat. If it's rubbing the breech, you'll see some ink removed.