Yeah, oh. wasn't pointed out until after that he was sent the wrong extractor but thanks for pointing it out.
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Create a channel Learn moreBut @kcsmith says it’s not an extractor issue, so better keep looking.Interestingly, that bolt says 473B on it, and my other one is a 473.
There is a slight difference with how that piece of steel was machined between the two.
I have figured out what the problem is and the problem is is that one of the two extractor they sent me says 378 on it:
View attachment 8341323
I'd like to see the difference between the two (standard vs magnum) extractors. I suspect the only difference is the radius, it shouldn't create a different gap between the extractor and the breech. To your point though, I don't think the extractor could cause a light primer strike because the rearward limit of the bolt is determined by the lug abutments. The bolt couldn't be pushed further back by contact between the extractor and the breech.if he can still lock the bolt and that extractor isn't stopping it then id be concerned on what headspace he's got and how much conical breach space he's got. from the other posts ive seen rubbing marks at least. I haven't swapped mine out yet.. havnt gotten the time to cut the barrels yet.
let me rephrase.- if the update extractor is pushing his bolt back enough to cause light striker hits. and fires fine with the OE extractor, I would be concerned on the breach geometry.
It seems that there has been a modification made to the CDG extractor components. I received two replacement extractor kits today for the 0.378" and 0.473" bolt heads that ordered.
The new extractor kit includes an extractor, a 2.5mm diameter x 5mm long pin and a spring.
This only applies to CDG bolt head assemblies shipped prior to August 31, 2023.
An issue was found that if the bolt strikes the bolt stop at high speeds, in some instances, the extractor can be ejected from the action. This is more likely to occur in larger calibers utilizing heavy cases.
The most noticeable difference is that the small ball has been replaced by a 2.5mm diameter x 5mm long pin. But ARC says to replace all three pieces with what is in the kit.
The pin can be seen in the new video that Ted released.
View attachment 8304371
I'd like to see the difference between the two (standard vs magnum) extractors. I suspect the only difference is the radius, it shouldn't create a different gap between the extractor and the breech. To your point though, I don't think the extractor could cause a light primer strike because the rearward limit of the bolt is determined by the lug abutments. The bolt couldn't be pushed further back by contact between the extractor and the breech.
I don't think ARC has explained the reason behind the new extractors, which they should. I have to believe if the new design changed the clearance between the extractor and breech, they would have said so.
What's the definition of "went down"Just to stir the pot Reddit lore says these things had issues at Mammoth, multiple shooters’ CDGs went down.
I haven’t changed triggers recently but did replace the extractor. If I can get out to the range I’ll check my main CDG.
I’d have to find it, but don’t recall how detailed the discussion was beyond that.What's the definition of "went down"
I ask because, a lot of things can happen that have nothing to do with the receiver. But, that won't stop someone from saying that's the reason.I’d have to find it, but don’t recall how detailed the discussion was beyond that.
I'd like to see the difference between the two (standard vs magnum) extractors. I suspect the only difference is the radius, it shouldn't create a different gap between the extractor and the breech. To your point though, I don't think the extractor could cause a light primer strike because the rearward limit of the bolt is determined by the lug abutments. The bolt couldn't be pushed further back by contact between the extractor and the breech.
I don't think ARC has explained the reason behind the new extractors, which they should. I have to believe if the new design changed the clearance between the extractor and breech, they would have said so.
Out of the two he received, one that they sent was the wrong extractor....it was for a .223 bolt face. They are marked on the inside flat of the extractor. Both extractors he received were supposed to be the same .473. Not one to be .378I understand it shouldn't be causing the issue but the only change in dudes rifle was those two things and the two different results are non firing weapon with light primer strikes, and a firing weapon. its not anecdotal
Serious question, I don't know any better: where and how was the change in extractor communicated? In this thread? When? Thanks!I don't think ARC has explained the reason behind the new extractors, which they should. I have to believe if the new design changed the clearance between the extractor and breech, they would have said so.
Post #6,224 on page 125Serious question, I don't know any better: where and how was the change in extractor communicated? In this thread? When? Thanks!
I had a similar reaction, but cannot fault the result, being to help feeding.I'm both impressed and appalled.
My fellow gangsters,
I felt that a beautiful action like the CDG needed nothing but the best components, so I took a savage take-off barrel and a used Foudation inletted for the wrong action and put them together. I wanted to run AW mags because I heard they were major-cool.
So first off, if you want to stick a CDG into an Impact 737 inlet, it looks like all that is needed is a little material removal on the sides of the recoil lug against the action due to the taper of the lug's sides on the CDG, and a hair of material removal just under the bolt release.
Being that this is a high-class installation, I cut this material out by hand using a deburring knife.
Next up, in order to feed the 6 Creedmoor rounds I will use out of an AW mag, it definitely needs a conical breech face. Maybe 1-in-5 rounds would feed without the coned breech. So, what do you do if you have a flat-faced barrel like this masterpiece of a savage takeoff? The easy solution is to take some Loctite 648 and glue a 7/16" Grade 8 washer to the face of the barrel, using a headspace gauge or cartridge to ensure the washer is centered on the barrel by pulling the gauge/cartridge out halfway and rotating it around the bore to nudge the washer into place. Then, using your precision calibrated eyeballs and a die grinder, grind a 30-degree cone into the washer until you touch the factory chamfer on the barrel. A little hand finishing with scotchbrite, and voila!
All dimensions were checked against ARC's breech drawing. You 100% need to assembly check this, but it works. You need to be positive the bolt face and extractor are not what is bottoming out against the washer when setting headspace. I had to do a few fit checks and take more material off, confirming that the barrel would screw in more with no headspace gauge than it would when the headspace gauge was installed.
The Dollar Store Coned Breech™ is born.
View attachment 8347905
View attachment 8347906
Just curious,...How many times during a year, do you use the phrase "hold my beer"?My fellow gangsters,
I felt that a beautiful action like the CDG needed nothing but the best components, so I took a savage take-off barrel and a used Foudation inletted for the wrong action and put them together. I wanted to run AW mags because I heard they were major-cool.
So first off, if you want to stick a CDG into an Impact 737 inlet, it looks like all that is needed is a little material removal on the sides of the recoil lug against the action due to the taper of the lug's sides on the CDG, and a hair of material removal just under the bolt release.
Being that this is a high-class installation, I cut this material out by hand using a deburring knife.
Next up, in order to feed the 6 Creedmoor rounds I will use out of an AW mag, it definitely needs a conical breech face. Maybe 1-in-5 rounds would feed without the coned breech. So, what do you do if you have a flat-faced barrel like this masterpiece of a savage takeoff? The easy solution is to take some Loctite 648 and glue a 7/16" Grade 8 washer to the face of the barrel, using a headspace gauge or cartridge to ensure the washer is centered on the barrel by pulling the gauge/cartridge out halfway and rotating it around the bore to nudge the washer into place. Then, using your precision calibrated eyeballs and a die grinder, grind a 30-degree cone into the washer until you touch the factory chamfer on the barrel. A little hand finishing with scotchbrite, and voila!
All dimensions were checked against ARC's breech drawing. You 100% need to assembly check this, but it works. You need to be positive the bolt face and extractor are not what is bottoming out against the washer when setting headspace. I had to do a few fit checks and take more material off, confirming that the barrel would screw in more with no headspace gauge than it would when the headspace gauge was installed.
The Dollar Store Coned Breech™ is born.
View attachment 8347905
View attachment 8347906
I'm both impressed and appalled.
And yet some say American craftsmanship and ingenuity are dead…My fellow gangsters,
I felt that a beautiful action like the CDG needed nothing but the best components, so I took a savage take-off barrel and a used Foudation inletted for the wrong action and put them together. I wanted to run AW mags because I heard they were major-cool.
So first off, if you want to stick a CDG into an Impact 737 inlet, it looks like all that is needed is a little material removal on the sides of the recoil lug against the action due to the taper of the lug's sides on the CDG, and a hair of material removal just under the bolt release.
Being that this is a high-class installation, I cut this material out by hand using a deburring knife.
Next up, in order to feed the 6 Creedmoor rounds I will use out of an AW mag, it definitely needs a conical breech face. Maybe 1-in-5 rounds would feed without the coned breech. So, what do you do if you have a flat-faced barrel like this masterpiece of a savage takeoff? The easy solution is to take some Loctite 648 and glue a 7/16" Grade 8 washer to the face of the barrel, using a headspace gauge or cartridge to ensure the washer is centered on the barrel by pulling the gauge/cartridge out halfway and rotating it around the bore to nudge the washer into place. Then, using your precision calibrated eyeballs and a die grinder, grind a 30-degree cone into the washer until you touch the factory chamfer on the barrel. A little hand finishing with scotchbrite, and voila!
All dimensions were checked against ARC's breech drawing. You 100% need to assembly check this, but it works. You need to be positive the bolt face and extractor are not what is bottoming out against the washer when setting headspace. I had to do a few fit checks and take more material off, confirming that the barrel would screw in more with no headspace gauge than it would when the headspace gauge was installed.
The Dollar Store Coned Breech™ is born.
View attachment 8347905
View attachment 8347906
I think homie used a factory Savage take-off barrel.Did you consider chambering the barrel deeper to allow the coned breach to be added? I have a 6.5 barrel that I want to play with at a later date.
Yes. But I think you could chamber it deeper, set it back? and then add the coned breach while still having enough threads to lock it down with the barrel nut. Cost would be a consideration but may not be the only concern he had about doing that. Not sure I would want to sink money into a factory barrel, in fact I won't. But I do have a lightly shot Kreiger that I might.I think homie used a factory Savage take-off barrel.
Yes. But I think you could chamber it deeper, set it back? and then add the coned breach while still having enough threads to lock it down with the barrel nut. Cost would be a consideration but may not be the only concern he had about doing that. Not sure I would want to sink money into a factory barrel, in fact I won't. But I do have a lightly shot Kreiger that I might.
They've clearanced if for BnA triggers yes. Unsure of fitment with a geissle or timney tho.Did/Has ARC redesigned the hanger yet for clearance issues for certain triggers (I think read a comment or rumor about this thousands of comments ago)? I called them and emailed them during SHOT and no response yet. Maybe smoke signals next?
@GBMaryland runs some Timneys with a CDG and it fit and functioned fine without modification.They've clearanced if for BnA triggers yes. Unsure of fitment with a geissle or timney tho.
That is correct for for some Timney's (HIT and Calvin Elites I think). My Timney 2 stage required modification of the hanger. I have a 2nd CDG on order. It's minor grinding, but was just curious.@GBMaryland runs some Timneys with a CDG and it fit and functioned fine without modification.
Ah, but don’t the new hangers have a cut out there?That is correct for for some Timney's (HIT and Calvin Elites I think). My Timney 2 stage required modification of the hanger. I have a 2nd CDG on order. It's minor grinding, but was just curious.
View attachment 8348905
This is the answer I am trying to find for my 2nd CDG that I ordered last month.Ah, but don’t the new hangers have a cut out there?
Pic of a newer one. They added some clearance for safety lever. Tall rear hanger screw will still hit a Huber.This is the answer I am trying to find for my 2nd CDG that I ordered last month.
The image that I used above is from my 1st CDG that I ordered in April 2023 and received Nov 2023. I removed material from that hanger. Not a big deal if I do it again.
That’s why there are button head machine screws. It’s what I used on my Huber.Pic of a newer one. They added some clearance for safety lever. Tall rear hanger screw will still hit a Huber.
View attachment 8348973
had to modify the hanger. With the exception of the Trigger Tech, they ALL seem to require modifications.Ah, but don’t the new hangers have a cut out there?
I know @GBMaryland installed a Timney 700 Light 2 stage and it fit without mods.
Yeah, that doesn't work with the Huber either...Pic of a newer one. They added some clearance for safety lever. Tall rear hanger screw will still hit a Huber.
View attachment 8348973
Well, I’m wrong again! Its my super power. lol.I
had to modify the hanger. With the exception of the Trigger Tech, they ALL seem to require modifications.
I didn’t have any trouble with my Huber, though it does not have a safety. Gen 2 trigger hanger.I
had to modify the hanger. With the exception of the Trigger Tech, they ALL seem to require modifications.
In my case there’s a wall on the other end that prevents me from sticking the breach end in first.I’m always perplexed to see people thread the long end of the barrel through the vice. I understand coming out the long way once the action is on, but going in?
It reminds them of the sex dream they had.I’m always perplexed to see people thread the long end of the barrel through the vice. I understand coming out the long way once the action is on, but going in?