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Coup De Grâce, New Action from American Rifle Company, $899 WOW!

Interestingly, that bolt says 473B on it, and my other one is a 473.

There is a slight difference with how that piece of steel was machined between the two.

I have figured out what the problem is and the problem is is that one of the two extractor they sent me says 378 on it:

View attachment 8341323
But @kcsmith says it’s not an extractor issue, so better keep looking.
 
if he can still lock the bolt and that extractor isn't stopping it then id be concerned on what headspace he's got and how much conical breach space he's got. from the other posts ive seen rubbing marks at least. I haven't swapped mine out yet.. havnt gotten the time to cut the barrels yet.

let me rephrase.- if the update extractor is pushing his bolt back enough to cause light striker hits. and fires fine with the OE extractor, I would be concerned on the breach geometry.
I'd like to see the difference between the two (standard vs magnum) extractors. I suspect the only difference is the radius, it shouldn't create a different gap between the extractor and the breech. To your point though, I don't think the extractor could cause a light primer strike because the rearward limit of the bolt is determined by the lug abutments. The bolt couldn't be pushed further back by contact between the extractor and the breech.

I don't think ARC has explained the reason behind the new extractors, which they should. I have to believe if the new design changed the clearance between the extractor and breech, they would have said so.
 
It seems that there has been a modification made to the CDG extractor components. I received two replacement extractor kits today for the 0.378" and 0.473" bolt heads that ordered.

The new extractor kit includes an extractor, a 2.5mm diameter x 5mm long pin and a spring.

This only applies to CDG bolt head assemblies shipped prior to August 31, 2023.

An issue was found that if the bolt strikes the bolt stop at high speeds, in some instances, the extractor can be ejected from the action. This is more likely to occur in larger calibers utilizing heavy cases.

The most noticeable difference is that the small ball has been replaced by a 2.5mm diameter x 5mm long pin. But ARC says to replace all three pieces with what is in the kit.

The pin can be seen in the new video that Ted released.

View attachment 8304371

I'd like to see the difference between the two (standard vs magnum) extractors. I suspect the only difference is the radius, it shouldn't create a different gap between the extractor and the breech. To your point though, I don't think the extractor could cause a light primer strike because the rearward limit of the bolt is determined by the lug abutments. The bolt couldn't be pushed further back by contact between the extractor and the breech.

I don't think ARC has explained the reason behind the new extractors, which they should. I have to believe if the new design changed the clearance between the extractor and breech, they would have said so.

They did explain why in the post above.

Did we have a tally on who’s barrels were rubbing? Is it all one manufacturer or multiple ones?

I’m running savage prefits with magnum cases so I have no cone and have had no issues.
 
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1707149837138.png
 
I'd like to see the difference between the two (standard vs magnum) extractors. I suspect the only difference is the radius, it shouldn't create a different gap between the extractor and the breech. To your point though, I don't think the extractor could cause a light primer strike because the rearward limit of the bolt is determined by the lug abutments. The bolt couldn't be pushed further back by contact between the extractor and the breech.

I don't think ARC has explained the reason behind the new extractors, which they should. I have to believe if the new design changed the clearance between the extractor and breech, they would have said so.

I understand it shouldn't be causing the issue but the only change in dudes rifle was those two things and the two different results are non firing weapon with light primer strikes, and a firing weapon. its not anecdotal
 
After getting my LA and playing with it, I decided to to get a SA for a 6.5PRC instead of the Origin I originally ordered. I am having MHSA do the barreled action with the WTO Switchlug. I'm also going get a 243WSSM barrel since I have a boatload of brass for it.
 
I understand it shouldn't be causing the issue but the only change in dudes rifle was those two things and the two different results are non firing weapon with light primer strikes, and a firing weapon. its not anecdotal
Out of the two he received, one that they sent was the wrong extractor....it was for a .223 bolt face. They are marked on the inside flat of the extractor. Both extractors he received were supposed to be the same .473. Not one to be .378

1707187407360.png


That's the root cause of his issue.
 
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I don't think ARC has explained the reason behind the new extractors, which they should. I have to believe if the new design changed the clearance between the extractor and breech, they would have said so.
Serious question, I don't know any better: where and how was the change in extractor communicated? In this thread? When? Thanks!
 
Quick question for you guys. Did anybody chamber their LA CDG in .338 LM and if so, how has it worked out for you?

I’m considering having a .338 LM Improved barrel spun up for some boom boom fun at distance.
 
My fellow gangsters,

I felt that a beautiful action like the CDG needed nothing but the best components, so I took a savage take-off barrel and a used Foudation inletted for the wrong action and put them together. I wanted to run AW mags because I heard they were major-cool.

So first off, if you want to stick a CDG into an Impact 737 inlet, it looks like all that is needed is a little material removal on the sides of the recoil lug against the action due to the taper of the lug's sides on the CDG, and a hair of material removal just under the bolt release.

Being that this is a high-class installation, I cut this material out by hand using a deburring knife.

Next up, in order to feed the 6 Creedmoor rounds I will use out of an AW mag, it definitely needs a conical breech face. Maybe 1-in-5 rounds would feed without the coned breech. So, what do you do if you have a flat-faced barrel like this masterpiece of a savage takeoff? The easy solution is to take some Loctite 648 and glue a 7/16" Grade 8 washer to the face of the barrel, using a headspace gauge or cartridge to ensure the washer is centered on the barrel by pulling the gauge/cartridge out halfway and rotating it around the bore to nudge the washer into place. Then, using your precision calibrated eyeballs and a die grinder, grind a 30-degree cone into the washer until you touch the factory chamfer on the barrel. A little hand finishing with scotchbrite, and voila!

All dimensions were checked against ARC's breech drawing. You 100% need to assembly check this, but it works. You need to be positive the bolt face and extractor are not what is bottoming out against the washer when setting headspace. I had to do a few fit checks and take more material off, confirming that the barrel would screw in more with no headspace gauge than it would when the headspace gauge was installed.

The Dollar Store Coned Breech is born.

1707789559080.png

1707789567036.png
 
My fellow gangsters,

I felt that a beautiful action like the CDG needed nothing but the best components, so I took a savage take-off barrel and a used Foudation inletted for the wrong action and put them together. I wanted to run AW mags because I heard they were major-cool.

So first off, if you want to stick a CDG into an Impact 737 inlet, it looks like all that is needed is a little material removal on the sides of the recoil lug against the action due to the taper of the lug's sides on the CDG, and a hair of material removal just under the bolt release.

Being that this is a high-class installation, I cut this material out by hand using a deburring knife.

Next up, in order to feed the 6 Creedmoor rounds I will use out of an AW mag, it definitely needs a conical breech face. Maybe 1-in-5 rounds would feed without the coned breech. So, what do you do if you have a flat-faced barrel like this masterpiece of a savage takeoff? The easy solution is to take some Loctite 648 and glue a 7/16" Grade 8 washer to the face of the barrel, using a headspace gauge or cartridge to ensure the washer is centered on the barrel by pulling the gauge/cartridge out halfway and rotating it around the bore to nudge the washer into place. Then, using your precision calibrated eyeballs and a die grinder, grind a 30-degree cone into the washer until you touch the factory chamfer on the barrel. A little hand finishing with scotchbrite, and voila!

All dimensions were checked against ARC's breech drawing. You 100% need to assembly check this, but it works. You need to be positive the bolt face and extractor are not what is bottoming out against the washer when setting headspace. I had to do a few fit checks and take more material off, confirming that the barrel would screw in more with no headspace gauge than it would when the headspace gauge was installed.

The Dollar Store Coned Breech is born.

View attachment 8347905
View attachment 8347906

A setup like that deserves some Snipers Hide patented 70kPSI hand loads.
 
My fellow gangsters,

I felt that a beautiful action like the CDG needed nothing but the best components, so I took a savage take-off barrel and a used Foudation inletted for the wrong action and put them together. I wanted to run AW mags because I heard they were major-cool.

So first off, if you want to stick a CDG into an Impact 737 inlet, it looks like all that is needed is a little material removal on the sides of the recoil lug against the action due to the taper of the lug's sides on the CDG, and a hair of material removal just under the bolt release.

Being that this is a high-class installation, I cut this material out by hand using a deburring knife.

Next up, in order to feed the 6 Creedmoor rounds I will use out of an AW mag, it definitely needs a conical breech face. Maybe 1-in-5 rounds would feed without the coned breech. So, what do you do if you have a flat-faced barrel like this masterpiece of a savage takeoff? The easy solution is to take some Loctite 648 and glue a 7/16" Grade 8 washer to the face of the barrel, using a headspace gauge or cartridge to ensure the washer is centered on the barrel by pulling the gauge/cartridge out halfway and rotating it around the bore to nudge the washer into place. Then, using your precision calibrated eyeballs and a die grinder, grind a 30-degree cone into the washer until you touch the factory chamfer on the barrel. A little hand finishing with scotchbrite, and voila!

All dimensions were checked against ARC's breech drawing. You 100% need to assembly check this, but it works. You need to be positive the bolt face and extractor are not what is bottoming out against the washer when setting headspace. I had to do a few fit checks and take more material off, confirming that the barrel would screw in more with no headspace gauge than it would when the headspace gauge was installed.

The Dollar Store Coned Breech is born.

View attachment 8347905
View attachment 8347906
Just curious,...How many times during a year, do you use the phrase "hold my beer"?
 
My fellow gangsters,

I felt that a beautiful action like the CDG needed nothing but the best components, so I took a savage take-off barrel and a used Foudation inletted for the wrong action and put them together. I wanted to run AW mags because I heard they were major-cool.

So first off, if you want to stick a CDG into an Impact 737 inlet, it looks like all that is needed is a little material removal on the sides of the recoil lug against the action due to the taper of the lug's sides on the CDG, and a hair of material removal just under the bolt release.

Being that this is a high-class installation, I cut this material out by hand using a deburring knife.

Next up, in order to feed the 6 Creedmoor rounds I will use out of an AW mag, it definitely needs a conical breech face. Maybe 1-in-5 rounds would feed without the coned breech. So, what do you do if you have a flat-faced barrel like this masterpiece of a savage takeoff? The easy solution is to take some Loctite 648 and glue a 7/16" Grade 8 washer to the face of the barrel, using a headspace gauge or cartridge to ensure the washer is centered on the barrel by pulling the gauge/cartridge out halfway and rotating it around the bore to nudge the washer into place. Then, using your precision calibrated eyeballs and a die grinder, grind a 30-degree cone into the washer until you touch the factory chamfer on the barrel. A little hand finishing with scotchbrite, and voila!

All dimensions were checked against ARC's breech drawing. You 100% need to assembly check this, but it works. You need to be positive the bolt face and extractor are not what is bottoming out against the washer when setting headspace. I had to do a few fit checks and take more material off, confirming that the barrel would screw in more with no headspace gauge than it would when the headspace gauge was installed.

The Dollar Store Coned Breech is born.

View attachment 8347905
View attachment 8347906
And yet some say American craftsmanship and ingenuity are dead…
 
For real though, the coned breech is essentially just an additional geometry that’s added to a flat barrel that provides a pretty bluntly angled feed ramp. The cone portion is about .0625” thick per ARC’s dimensions if I remember right. There are two risks I can see in this approach:

1. You can gouge the chamber if you aren’t careful with the grinder
2. You can set a false, excessive headspace if your bolt or extractor hits the cone portion before the bolt face hits the headspace gauge. I had to do a few iterations and remove material several times before I got to the point of clearing when I finally met the factory chamber chamfer with the cone angle.

Otherwise it’s just simple geometry and I would have no qualms about doing this again with a future barrel. I’ll test is out shortly and see how it does but for now it feeds 100%.
 
I think homie used a factory Savage take-off barrel.
Yes. But I think you could chamber it deeper, set it back? and then add the coned breach while still having enough threads to lock it down with the barrel nut. Cost would be a consideration but may not be the only concern he had about doing that. Not sure I would want to sink money into a factory barrel, in fact I won't. But I do have a lightly shot Kreiger that I might.
 
Yes. But I think you could chamber it deeper, set it back? and then add the coned breach while still having enough threads to lock it down with the barrel nut. Cost would be a consideration but may not be the only concern he had about doing that. Not sure I would want to sink money into a factory barrel, in fact I won't. But I do have a lightly shot Kreiger that I might.

Yeah but that would require putting it on a lathe to machine the breech and having the correct reamer. That’s an expensive option and it would need to go to a gunsmith and probably take months to get back. This was the at-home solution that gets the job done. There are a lot of takeoff barrels out there that can function this way. If I remember the specs correctly, the CDG has the same tenon spec as a TL3, and with a .050” spacer could use Origin prefits too. They’d need a coned breech if you wanted to run AW mags so here’s a way to do that.
 
Did/Has ARC redesigned the hanger yet for clearance issues for certain triggers (I think read a comment or rumor about this thousands of comments ago)? I called them and emailed them during SHOT and no response yet. Maybe smoke signals next?
 
Did/Has ARC redesigned the hanger yet for clearance issues for certain triggers (I think read a comment or rumor about this thousands of comments ago)? I called them and emailed them during SHOT and no response yet. Maybe smoke signals next?
They've clearanced if for BnA triggers yes. Unsure of fitment with a geissle or timney tho.
 
That is correct for for some Timney's (HIT and Calvin Elites I think). My Timney 2 stage required modification of the hanger. I have a 2nd CDG on order. It's minor grinding, but was just curious.



View attachment 8348905
Ah, but don’t the new hangers have a cut out there?

I know @GBMaryland installed a Timney 700 Light 2 stage and it fit without mods.
 
This is the answer I am trying to find for my 2nd CDG that I ordered last month.

The image that I used above is from my 1st CDG that I ordered in April 2023 and received Nov 2023. I removed material from that hanger. Not a big deal if I do it again.
Pic of a newer one. They added some clearance for safety lever. Tall rear hanger screw will still hit a Huber.
1707925835042.png
 
Alright here’s my final thoughts and review of this beast! I think this is the best action for the money and even for more, but it has had some quirks to watch out for!
Can’t wait for my lightweight to get here for a NRL build.

ARC Coup de Grace: The Good, The Bad, The Almost Ugly