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Machine shop costs ?

BurtG

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  • Nov 9, 2022
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    Anyone know a rough guesstimate to have a shop make these in brass , steel or aluminum ?

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    Those are threaded bolts sticking out
     
    Anyone know a rough guesstimate to have a shop make these in brass , steel or aluminum ?

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    Those are threaded bolts sticking out
    Questions you will be asked:
    Which alloy of brass, steel or aluminum? Nobody is going to give an estimate until this is known. Some forms of brass are very hard to get right now.
    Do you require material certs or inspection reports? Or is it just machine and go?
    Do you want them coated or painted?
    What are the tolerances for the features?
    Do you have drawings or just the CAD files?
    What surface finish do you require? If you don't specify you will most likely get 125.
    Lead time?
    What are the specs on those inserts? Are you going to put those in or do you want them put in for you? Do you have dimensions on those or access to the data regarding them?
    Every hole has been radiused or countersunk. The CAD file can be interrogated to determine the dimensions, but are those countersinks specific to a certain screw or are they general countersinks? It matters if you are looking for a flush fit and the CAD file is a general countersink.
    The threaded holes - what are they specifically? This is where the drawing becomes important if it is not called out somewhere on the CAD file.
    And the ringer question a shop will ask: what is this for? Nobody wants to build something that is for shady purposes/ITAR controlled, etc. When someone comes in and askes for a few of a part this question usually gets asked in passing during the discussion but it is an important go/no-go question to keep them out of liability or harms way from a legal perspective.

    I can do that on the 5-axis no problem. But as IceEng said, low quantities won't be cheap anywhere due to programming, setup, tooling, etc.
     
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    They were 3D printed if that helps.

    Aren’t there metal printers now ?
    Yup, but the cost may not be that much cheaper. It will depend on what kind of material the printer can handle, and not every metal is available to be 3D printed.

    The metal you choose needs to be able to handle the forces you will be applying to these parts. Example: 2025, 6061 and 7075 are all aluminum alloys but have very different physical properties and are used in different applications. Same with brass and steel.
     
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    Yup, but the cost may not be that much cheaper. It will depend on what kind of material the printer can handle, and not every metal is available to be 3D printed.

    The metal you choose needs to be able to handle the forces you will be applying to these parts. Example: 2025, 6061 and 7075 are all aluminum alloys but have very different physical properties and are used in different applications. Same with brass and steel.
    Well Plastic is holding up. Going to metal is just to add weight and some strength
     
    If you want weight, print it hollow, and fill with liquid plaster or something..

    Ita not a hugely complex part, but 5 parts would be stupid expensive, a few hundred each. If you wanted 100, then peice would be potentially under $100aud (like $60usd ?).

    Economy of scale my friend.
     
    If you want weight, print it hollow, and fill with liquid plaster or something..

    Ita not a hugely complex part, but 5 parts would be stupid expensive, a few hundred each. If you wanted 100, then peice would be potentially under $100aud (like $60usd ?).

    Economy of scale my friend.
    That’s a good point on filling it with something heavier.

    Burt, I have a 3D print farm at the shop as well for some R&D and our own production work. Something IceEng just reminded me of: depending on the capabilities of your printer you may be able to use a different material and get better rigidity, strength and wear on your part. We have been using NylonG and others that perform better than some filaments that are readily available. Also take a look at the infill and your wall thickness. Alternatively, in the areas that take stress you might be able to reinforce it with carbon fiber or aluminum sheet - just program in a slot in that area for the plate to fit/snap/screw into. We have done this on some parts that have to be able to take wear and abuse. Maybe that and his suggestion of filling it with heavier material will get you where you want to be without going to a machine shop.
     
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    having a print makes it less hard.
    Having a 3d model makes it even easier.
    If surface finish doesn’t matter and tolerances are wide open that makes it even way more easier.
    One part will be few hundred or more.
    I can make it easily enough, but will cost a lot more if someone has to reverse engineer that part.

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    Hey Nick, you don’t have time to waste here, get onto those FABA kits for my next rifle!!!:):)
    Faaark. Gimmie a break ! Im working on it. Heads up, we have one job to finish, they are next up ! (Job will last a week).

    tripod-fingers beat me. Yes my finger is crooked. Yes its my trigger finger.

    Back on topic. Find someone to print in high strength stuff, like carbon filament, or nylon impregnated, print hollow, fill with goo.

    When CNC maching, you are paying from the time they start working on it, not when they start machining. Tooling setup, jigs, vices, etc.. and clean time. Thats part of the job, machines dont (really) clean themselves.

    Ive had jobs take 4 hours to setup.... for a 5 part run. Part was like 20mins. Dude wanted to pay. Other times ive done 1hr setups and run 200 parts, and had 8 parts at a time in that setup, hugely economical.

    I still say laser cut sheet metal tig welded together will be the cheapest option for a 1 off.

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    2 styles were done to let Ole Burt play around. Shapes were not optimized for machining but it can be done easily. Same with dwgs or cad files, easy. I'm gonna ask MKM to quote and might print a few for Burt after I finish an nvg housing model this weekend.
     
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