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Need help finding a 30mm cantilever mount that removes 5-10moa of cant.

cuz

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 6, 2017
228
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Hey all,
I need help finding a 30mm cantilever mount for my 10/22 competition rifle. About 1.25” high would be perfect, but I can work with anywhere from 1-1.5” high.

Currently using Burris XTR rings to remove 5moa from the built in 30moa rail and they work, but I need to move the scope forward another 0.5” and I can’t do it. The front ring is at the front edge of the rail and the scope is forward about as much as it can go.

Any recommendations?
Do you simply take a 10moa mount and put it on backwards??

Any and all help is appreciated.
Thanks.
 
I just found this which looks like it might work if I can’t find anything else. But I kind of think this would look pretty dumb on the gun…

 
Cantilever mounts come 0MOA or with incline built in, mounting it backwards will do the exact opposite or mounting it forward.

Why not just change the base? Or buy a different optic that doesn’t suck because it doesn’t even have 60MOA of travel?
 
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I just found this which looks like it might work if I can’t find anything else. But I kind of think this would look pretty dumb on the gun…

I use one of those on my ARs.

I like it.

-Stan
 
Cantilever mounts come 0MOA or with incline built in, mounting it backwards will do the exact opposite or mounting it forward.

Why not just change the base? Or buy a different optic that doesn’t suck because it doesn’t even have 60MOA of travel?

Thanks for the helpful and insightful response. The Hide is certainly a better place with such helpful people like you around to point us in the right direction.

The Ruger 10/22 Competition model comes with an integral 30moa rail, so I can't change the base, and the scope is a Vortex Razor HD LHT so I'm pretty confident that my optic "doesn't suck". To sight it in at 50 yds I need another 2 clicks down. Then, I'd also like to have another 2-3 clicks available to dial down to 30 yds if I wanted.
 
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Thanks for the helpful and insightful response. The Hide is certainly a better place with such helpful people like you around to point us in the right direction.

The Ruger 10/22 Competition model comes with an integral 30moa rail, so I can't change the base, and the scope is a Vortex Razor HD LHT so I'm pretty confident that my optic "doesn't suck". To sight it in at 50 yds I need another 2 clicks down. Then, I'd also like to have another 2-3 clicks available to dial down to 30 yds if I wanted.

If you can’t zero it on a 30MOA base then at the very least it sucks for that application.

I see absolutely no way that you’re going to get a cantilever mount with negative cant. Even if you get some you’re still bottoming out the erector on the spring which is less than ideal.

It’s obviously not what you want to hear but a different optic is the easiest solution. So you can take your sarcastic remarks and shove them up your ass.
 
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You're welcome:

1701636756847.png


 
Thanks for the helpful and insightful response. The Hide is certainly a better place with such helpful people like you around to point us in the right direction.

The Ruger 10/22 Competition model comes with an integral 30moa rail, so I can't change the base, and the scope is a Vortex Razor HD LHT so I'm pretty confident that my optic "doesn't suck". To sight it in at 50 yds I need another 2 clicks down. Then, I'd also like to have another 2-3 clicks available to dial down to 30 yds if I wanted.
This setup seems like it should work. Which Vortex Razor HD LHT? RevStop off?

JFR
 
This setup seems like it should work. Which Vortex Razor HD LHT? RevStop off?

JFR
I got the 3-15x42, which I like a lot. When I installed it in an American Defense 30mm mount and tried to zero it, I came up just a couple clicks short. I swapped the mount for the XTR rings and with a -5moa cant, I was able to zero and still have 3 mils of downward travel left. This is without the RevStop installed.

I've been playing with it to figure out the proper eye relief and at max magnification, I need to move the scope forward about 1/2". The front ring is currently right at the edge of the rail, and the turrets are about 1/8" behind that. I didn't want to push the turrets any closer to the ring. I suppose I could also look to extend the stock, which is another option, if the Burris mount pictured above won't work.
 
I got the 3-15x42, which I like a lot. When I installed it in an American Defense 30mm mount and tried to zero it, I came up just a couple clicks short. I swapped the mount for the XTR rings and with a -5moa cant, I was able to zero and still have 3 mils of downward travel left. This is without the RevStop installed.

I've been playing with it to figure out the proper eye relief and at max magnification, I need to move the scope forward about 1/2". The front ring is currently right at the edge of the rail, and the turrets are about 1/8" behind that. I didn't want to push the turrets any closer to the ring. I suppose I could also look to extend the stock, which is another option, if the Burris mount pictured above won't work.
Oooohhh. I didn't understand you had it in a 30 MOA mount on top of a 30 MOA rail.

JFR
 
Oooohhh. I didn't understand you had it in a 30 MOA mount on top of a 30 MOA rail.

JFR
Negative, the 10/22 receiver has an integral 30moa rail. The American Defense mount was a 0moa mount. You read too fast, the 30mm is the scope tube size.

:)
 
I give up. It still seems it should have worked. Good luck.

JFR
Thanks, I was surprised when it didn’t. It never occurred to me that it wouldn’t, but then again, I’m a beginner, and switching to the adjustable rings seemed like the best course forward since I was pretty sure I could get them to work. The eye relief issue also didn’t occur to me because I was too wrapped up in the zero issue to notice.

Hopefully the Burris mount will solve everything, or it will identify the next issue that I didn’t see coming…

Thanks again.
 
Something isn’t adding up.

30 MOA isn’t that much and should be able to zero no problem.

You might start from bottom and count MOA/Mils until you run out of travel both ways. Make sure your windage is centered as well.

Count the total travel available and see what’s going on.
 
If you just need to move a little, going from XTR rings to signature zee's will give it to you as they are much narrower and still have the plastic inserts.