• Frank's Lesson's Contest

    We want to see your skills! Post a video between now and November 1st showing what you've learned from Frank's lessons and 3 people will be selected to win a free shirt. Good luck everyone!

    Create a channel Learn more
  • Having trouble using the site?

    Contact support

Platform change

Alphatreedog

Tier Potato
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Feb 15, 2017
    5,843
    11,135
    So I have predominantly shot Sporter stocked medium to heavy barreled .308 .
    My question is , is there a learning curve going to a chassis type rifle ?
    I tried going gas gun and found that all of the extra movement challenged me beyond my knowledge and skill . I have typically shot with finger tips on a Sporter stock grip and thumb along side as opposed to gripping .
    Have any of you found it difficult to transition .
    Considering some of the Sig chassied rifles .
     
    So I have predominantly shot Sporter stocked medium to heavy barreled .308 .
    My question is , is there a learning curve going to a chassis type rifle ?
    I tried going gas gun and found that all of the extra movement challenged me beyond my knowledge and skill . I have typically shot with finger tips on a Sporter stock grip and thumb along side as opposed to gripping .
    Have any of you found it difficult to transition .
    Considering some of the Sig chassied rifles .
    Chassis will be easier to shoot if anything. Adjusts to fit your body and grip. Now in a standing type freehand hunting shot it may be more awkward. I shoot all my guns with my thumb along the side vs wrapped

    AI ATX with a ZCO will make you very happy 😃 👍
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Alphatreedog
    Shooting off a bench and a bipod (never prone), I too find light wood or fiberglass-stocked rifles need either a lighter touch or for me to sorta grab the top of the scope to stop it hopping. With a Harris bipod, at least.

    I might just suck, however.

    My heavy KRG W3 chassis is way easier to shoot from the bench + bipod, and my AIAX is even easier for some reason.

    The W3 and light rifles are usually easier to shoot well in an X-shaped heavy bag, sorta like a sandbag but mine isn’t full of sand.

    The AI seems to shoot well no matter the rest. It’s a little eerie.

    One thing I’ve noticed is I seem to usually shoot worse with a rubber-footed Harris with a light rifle. Bounces around more. Only use a Harris because my lighter rifles have one sling stud up front and using the Harris is convenient.

    With those light guns, if I use a sling stud to picatinny adapter and then attach an Atlas SCAL with ski feet, I do a more of a free recoil technique (still use a rear bag). My results seem better this way, but occasionally the stars align and I shoot well with the Harris.

    I’m thinking that since I do more dot drills than groups, the slight shifting I have to do when aiming for each new dot induces some springy torque in the Harris. Which then messes my shot up if I’m not perfectly aligned on the bench.

    ANYWAY, with heavy rifles I just load the bipod a bit and get great results. The bipod you use has to be up to the task; I use an LRA Light Tactical Fclass (my favorite) and an Atlas SCAL, mainly. Sometimes with ski feet on the SCAL and lately with spikes on either so I can load them to learn something differen.

    I do have an Elite Iron panner bipod and while it’s superior to all in getting a natural point of aim, it fits only one or two of my guns and is a pain to get all set up. The panner bit makes leaving the bipod on a no-go as it spins about and will scratch the barrel all up.

    Hope some of this helps.
     
    So I have predominantly shot Sporter stocked medium to heavy barreled .308 .
    My question is , is there a learning curve going to a chassis type rifle ?
    Key thing to suss out is if you like AR style grips or not.

    Not everyone likes the obstruction over the thumb, which forces uses of either a thumb shelf or opposing thumb grip. Another thing, is getting the correct overall grip geometry of trigger to front of grip.

    There are two components to rifle fit in the LOP, which alot of people gloss over or overlook. Part one is the stock length, that gets you from your shoulder pocket to the front of the grip. The second part is the "trigger distance" from the front of the grip to the trigger shoe.

    Some people are very sensitive to small variations in the trigger distance.
     
    I don't think there's much to a learning curve when switching to a chassis. I got my first chassis rifle in 2023 after nearly 20 years of either McMillan or Manners. Within 50 - 75 rounds I was focusing less on the feel and more back on my breathing and trigger control.

    Now, I will caveat by stating that my chassis rifle (AT-X) has the same ergo grip that I've put on all of my hunting ARs. I also have a bit of experience with shooting the AR (M16A2 and A4) platform competitively, so that may have lessened the curve as well.

    You can certainly adjust the chassis rifles faster, and usually more. That being said, the old McMillan A series of stocks and my Manners T4 always seem to fit my firing hand naturally. The natural feel is one less mental obstacle to have to overcome when manipulating the trigger. I don't really like the feel of a plastic or rubber grip either.

    I still prefer to wrap my thumb over/around. It can hurt you if you have a sympathetic squeeze with your thumb, but I've never had that. However I think a chassis with a more vertical grip is more conducive to guys who thumb along the same side as the index finger, as well as only exert light fingertip pressure on the grip with the firing hand.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Alphatreedog