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Oryx 10/22

Does it support Kidd Tangs?
There is a video posted on another thread. In the video it says it supports aftermarket receivers, not sure about with the addition of the Kidd tang.
 
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Any particular reason why?

The KRG Bravo 10/22 was shortened and required a good amount of spacers to get to a proper LoP. It looks like the Oryx is just like their existing Oryx just inletted for the 10/22.

I also switched from a Bravo to a MDT ACC, and started to like the more chassis feel. Also I believe the Oryx uses a standard AR-15 grip and allow you to swap grips. The Bravo's grip just didn't fit well for me.
 
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The KRG Bravo 10/22 was shortened and required a good amount of spacers to get to a proper LoP. It looks like the Oryx is just like their existing Oryx just inletted for the 10/22.

I also switched from a Bravo to a MDT ACC, and started to like the more chassis feel. Also I believe the Oryx uses a standard AR-15 grip and allow you to swap grips. The Bravo's grip just didn't fit well for me.

I hear ya...I have an oryx for my Tikka T1X. It’s great, but I think the Bravo will be significantly lighter, which better suits my needs for a 10/22. KRG stated the 10/22 Bravo will have a tool-less LOP kit available as well.
 
Care to elaborate on that for us ?? the wait is killing me.

I'd guess it's like the titan with a connection between the receiver and the trigger assembly. I machined a brass bolt in my wood raptor stock that indexes with the cleaning hole on the rear of the receiver. Nice and snug, no movement whatsoever.
 
You've already purchased and shot a 10/22 Bravo?

No, but from talking to KRG and looking at their measurements, they shortened the LOP on it for more youth oriented. So you need a lot more spacers to get it back to the 13.5" and they also removed that QD cup slot from the back right too.
 
No, but from talking to KRG and looking at their measurements, they shortened the LOP on it for more youth oriented. So you need a lot more spacers to get it back to the 13.5" and they also removed that QD cup slot from the back right too.
It also has a $250 price...
 
That is true. For $250, then yeh maybe I'd lean back into the Bravo. I forgot that it was that cheap. I just ordered the Oryx for the $399.
Let us know how you like it. Especially interested in the weight distribution w/ a 16” barrel.
 
Care to elaborate on that for us ?? the wait is killing me.

I think we'll be doing a video on it sometime in the near future, but essentially we have slotted the rear "tang" area and have come up with a system that allows the user to clamp the rear of the action in place, while also using the front action screw to secure it. It's slightly tricky to explain here, and I think the video will do a good job clearing things up!

Josh
 
I think we'll be doing a video on it sometime in the near future, but essentially we have slotted the rear "tang" area and have come up with a system that allows the user to clamp the rear of the action in place, while also using the front action screw to secure it. It's slightly tricky to explain here, and I think the video will do a good job clearing things up!

Josh
I get mine tomorrow, maybe I'll see if I can post something.
 
I think we'll be doing a video on it sometime in the near future, but essentially we have slotted the rear "tang" area and have come up with a system that allows the user to clamp the rear of the action in place, while also using the front action screw to secure it. It's slightly tricky to explain here, and I think the video will do a good job clearing things up!

Josh
It would be so cool if you could partner with Ruger and make this a factory offering. It would dominate base class NRL!
 
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Mine came yesterday and I didn't know. It was sadly just sitting there all night, and I found it this morning on the way to work... so now I get to look at it at my desk at work until I can home tonight to put it together... Question is do I put it on my 10/22 or my PWS T3 Summit.
 
Quick pic

IMG_20200219_154549.jpg
 
Mini Review -

Chassis came in, decently packaged. The action screw and washer were not in the little bag and floating somewhere in the box. I guess someone forgot to seal the ziplock bag. Not a big deal.

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Installation was pretty simple. Just popped out the Ruger 10/22 and stuck it in. Tightened the action screw to 45 in/lbs. Their instruction said 60 in/lbs, but that just seems a lot for a 10/22... so I left it at 45. In the picture below you can see their back-end screw that tightens the chassis down around the rear of the action.

So you place the action in and tighten the action screw. Then with the rear seated down, you tighten that back-end screw which clamps the action in place. Worked great. 40-45 in/lbs on the rear clamp.

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Here are the instructions

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Some things I don't like -

1.
The bottom of the rifle isn't flat. I wasn't able to install any of the standard arca rails I own - Area 419, etc.

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Bending the rail like that causes sliding issues with the clamps, so I did not want to do that. Running the rail loose caused lateral flex when trying to cant the rifle.

It looks like we're forced to buy the MDT version of the Arca rail for the Oryx.

2.
It doesn't come with any sort of sling swivel stud or picatinny m-lok. While I know it's cutting costs for not including things, the buyer frustration to not have something ready to shoot is a bit of a pain in the ass. KRG Bravo comes with both a 2" picatinny rail, and a swivel stud. So right out of the box, I can shoot my rifle w/o having to worry about this little add-on.

I have a match this Sunday and wanted to take this out, but now my Atlas Arca Clamp bipod won't work because i need to order and wait for shipping on their ARCA rail, and my harris won't work because I need to buy their version of the sling stud. $9.99 for the sling stud, + more shipping. A little frustrating.

3.
Barricade stop is so tiny, that it might as well not be one. I guess with their version of the arca rail that tapers down I get about a 1/4-3/8" of usable barricade stop, which is better than nothing, but they could've given us a little more stop. I will probably run the Area 419 stop on their arca rail.

4. No way to get a QD / Mount on the side for a sling. NRL22 always has unsupported stages. It would be good to have a QD hole so I can put my sling QD into it.
If I choose a arca rail, then where I attach my sling? @MDT_OFFICIAL does your arca rail have qd holes? I can't tell from the site.

5. Weight balance is really butt heavy. I wish there was a way to get a lot more weight up front. Maybe a steel version of the arca plate?

Things I do like

1. Weight is nice. A really sturdy feeling design.
2. That rear tightening mechanism for 10/22 is fantastic. Simple to use, works great.
3. That MDT rubber grip feels good. Feels great in the hand, and has a thumb rest too.

Overall I think this is a keeper. I'll try to run it in matches for the 30 days to see if I really like it, I will need to get the arca, sling, and balance stuff figured out..

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Lastly I went to the range before it got dark and shot a box of SK ammo. I had to rezero the rifle, so it looks like being in this new action, I was shooting .9mil high. Not sure why? But I got it rezeroed and my dope was spot on.

I shot 5 x 5 groups, all averaging .9-1.1" with SK+.
 
Right now my biggest gripe is finding a good way to get a QD slot on it so I can run a sling for offhand stages. If I use the sling swivel, then I can't use the Arca Rail. Not sure why they just didn't machine up front M-Lok slots like the KRG Bravo. A lot of slightly missed usability details that could have been easily engineered without upping the cost. Otherwise the mfg and quality are pretty top notch. Maybe they didn't want to cannibalize sales off their higher end MDT lines. But they don't offer any 10/22 inlets on any of their MDT chassis...
 
I have a match this Sunday and wanted to take this out, but now my Atlas Arca Clamp bipod won't work because i need to order and wait for shipping on their ARCA rail, and my harris won't work because I need to buy their version of the sling stud. $9.99 for the sling stud, + more shipping. A little frustrating.

Our apologies for the confusion, however, it is a simple 10-32 hole which is a common stud thread. We include a few washers to help time the stud to the chassis.


If I choose a arca rail, then where I attach my sling? @MDT_OFFICIAL does your arca rail have qd holes? I can't tell from the site.

It does not, that may change in the future.

5. Weight balance is really butt heavy. I wish there was a way to get a lot more weight up front. Maybe a steel version of the arca plate?

Thank you for the feedback. We will consider it.


Lastly I went to the range before it got dark and shot a box of SK ammo. I had to rezero the rifle, so it looks like being in this new action, I was shooting .9mil high. Not sure why? But I got it rezeroed and my dope was spot on.

Likely the difference is from the stock to chassis. Also your torque value could change which would result in the POI shifting up.
 
I have a match this Sunday and wanted to take this out, but now my Atlas Arca Clamp bipod won't work because i need to order and wait for shipping on their ARCA rail, and my harris won't work because I need to buy their version of the sling stud. $9.99 for the sling stud, + more shipping. A little frustrating.

Our apologies for the confusion, however, it is a simple 10-32 hole which is a common stud thread. We include a few washers to help time the stud to the chassis.


If I choose a arca rail, then where I attach my sling? @MDT_OFFICIAL does your arca rail have qd holes? I can't tell from the site.

It does not, that may change in the future.

5. Weight balance is really butt heavy. I wish there was a way to get a lot more weight up front. Maybe a steel version of the arca plate?

Thank you for the feedback. We will consider it.


Lastly I went to the range before it got dark and shot a box of SK ammo. I had to rezero the rifle, so it looks like being in this new action, I was shooting .9mil high. Not sure why? But I got it rezeroed and my dope was spot on.

Likely the difference is from the stock to chassis. Also your torque value could change which would result in the POI shifting up.

Thanks for the reply. I've shown a few people the chassis at the range and they are pretty pleased with it. Price-wise compared to the $250 Bravo, it's going to be an interesting sell, but I'm a big fan of MDT, now purchased 3 MDT ACC chassis for different rifles...

I'll place an order for the ARCA rail, are they shipping from Bellingham still? I might get lucky to get it by my Sunday match if I order now and it gets delivered on Saturday (finger's crossed)..

It looks like my solution to the QD can be solved by the RRS Micro Clamp - https://amzn.to/32dBUaO. It won't get here in time for this Sunday's match, but at least be available until next month's NRL22. By then, I am hoping my Vudoo in the MDT ACC chassis will be ready so who knows :)
 
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Thanks for the reply. I've shown a few people the chassis at the range and they are pretty pleased with it. Price-wise compared to the $250 Bravo, it's going to be an interesting sell, but I'm a big fan of MDT, now purchased 3 MDT ACC chassis for different rifles...

I'll place an order for the ARCA rail, are they shipping from Bellingham still? I might get lucky to get it by my Sunday match if I order now and it gets delivered on Saturday (finger's crossed)..

It looks like my solution to the QD can be solved by the RRS Micro Clamp - https://amzn.to/32dBUaO. It won't get here in time for this Sunday's match, but at least be available until next month's NRL22. By then, I am hoping my Vudoo in the MDT ACC chassis will be ready so who knows :)

Thank you for your feedback, yes, for US orders we ship from our warehouse in Washington State. It shouldn't be an issue.
 
@littlepod after that m-lok arca rail is installed, will there be room underneath the barrel to add some weight to the forend? For example, something like lead strap decoy weights or wheel weights. It might be an easy, and cheap, way to tune the balance of the rifle.
 
Yes, but you would re-use the m-lok slots to attach it, or you would need to glue/re-drill holes. That was an option... I have some MDT ACC Fore-end weights coming next week so I might fool around with that.

Good deal. I'll keep an eye on the thread, might have to pick one of these up myself.
 
Placed an order for their arca rail today. I'll have it on Saturday to play with. You could also just order a 7" arca rail but it won't cover the entire bottom of the chassis, so 7" is just the exact flat part.

7" arca m-lok rail runs for $55.. their specially cut version runs for $70, so I just paid the extra $15 for their version. I should've put that order in up front if I had known about it instead of paying another $8 for shipping.

I also bought the RRS clamp which will be here in another week to add a QD slot.
 
Also for people who asked about this being a great loaner rifle/chassis, my answer would be No, because it's too long for shorter and young guns. The shipped length is 13.5". You could probably remove the thicker buttpad, and the spacer, and screw in a very minimal piece of rubber to get yourself to 13".

For an overall loaner, the minimum should be able to go down to 12.5" for the smaller folk.

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You can remove both spacers and go ti 13", also if you need to go shorter trimming the buttpad down can get you close to 12.75".
 
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Oryx Arca Rail installed. Great rail. But no more barricade stop on the mag well anymore :(

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So now the question is... should MDT manufacture a new rail that includes a barricade stop and possible re-uses the action screw hole to tighten it all down?

What's the best barricade stop to use for this setup? Area 419's fixed one to put at the end of the rail?

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Prices adding up now with $400 + $70 + $40 for barricade stop.
 

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What's the best barricade stop to use for this setup? Area 419's fixed one to put at the end of the rail?
XLR makes a good one that works with with arca and is adjustable/removable.

 
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I can’t tell from the pics if it is possible to clean the 10/22 without removing the Oryx Chassis.
If not, that with the other shortcomings is a deal killer for me.
 
How do you clean a 10/22 without removing its chassis? Regardless of Oryx or anything else?

Oops, should have gone to the safe before I posted. My 10/22 receivers are drilled, but the
stocks do cover the hole.
 
Oops, should have gone to the safe before I posted. My 10/22 receivers are drilled, but the
stocks do cover the hole.

My receivers are drilled too, but my bolt is not drilled, so my cleaning rod can't go through all the way to the barrel w/o removing the bolt. Is your bolt somehow drilled so that a rod goes all the way through the receiver and the bolt to the barrel? That would be cool.
 
Must have the beer virus with all this fuzzy thinking!
I wonder if the bolt could be safely drilled?
 
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Nope its just needs to get taken apart. A Patchwork pull through cleaner says you from that until it super dirty.
 
I think we'll be doing a video on it sometime in the near future, but essentially we have slotted the rear "tang" area and have come up with a system that allows the user to clamp the rear of the action in place, while also using the front action screw to secure it. It's slightly tricky to explain here, and I think the video will do a good job clearing things up!

Josh
Do you have the video for this, I am seriously considering this Chassis for my KIDD Supergrade, but not having the Rear Tang attachment is the hang up. anything you can send to tell me where to go to find this info to put my mind at ease would be helpful. If your system is better than the rear tang, how do I change out my Currently Rear Tang set up in place for ours? These Kidd systems are much more heavy than a normal single screw up front can handle it really needs to be secured in front and rear like a bolt action.
 
Do you have the video for this, I am seriously considering this Chassis for my KIDD Supergrade, but not having the Rear Tang attachment is the hang up. anything you can send to tell me where to go to find this info to put my mind at ease would be helpful. If your system is better than the rear tang, how do I change out my Currently Rear Tang set up in place for ours? These Kidd systems are much more heavy than a normal single screw up front can handle it really needs to be secured in front and rear like a bolt action.

We never did a video on this, but it works well. It's not a rear tang per say, but the clamp action from the side secures the receiver incredibly well. I run a Dlask TUFF 22 with an IBI .920 20" barrel on. It's super front-heavy, to the point where I run the steel butt pad spacer to balance it out, and this thing just hammers. As long as you can remove the rear tang from your receiver you will be good to go. May need to clearance the nylon pins a bit for the KIDD as well, but you have 30 days from the date you receive it to try it out and see if you like it.

-Anthony
 
Here is a picture of how it clamps from the sides. Seems like a very easy and firm way to do it. I've always that this type of clamp would be a good way to go.
 

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Seems like you could modify the chassis like I did for my wood stocked 10/22's. Add a brass screw in the rear that indexes with the hole for cleaning. Easy Peasy, rock solid.
 
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Here is a picture of how it clamps from the sides. Seems like a very easy and firm way to do it. I've always that this type of clamp would be a good way to go.
Nice, thank you, I couldn't get to my gun to do this!

-Anthony
 
You will need to clearance the area for the rear of the trigger guard as the KIDD trigger guard is wider than the cutout for it in the chassis unless MDT has updated that part after my conversation with them awhile back. The clamp for the rear was not totally successful for me so I made a rear anchor for mine using the cleaning rod hole and the clamp screw.

Since my modifications I totally sold on the chassis.
 

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We do have a different bottom metal for the VQ/different triggers out there now. We don't send it out much, but we can if need be.

-Anthony