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Suppressors Solventtrapsdirect form1

Geno C.

Dirty Carnie
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Oct 24, 2007
    6,956
    15,924
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    Wautoma, WI
    So a few guys have been asking about a lighter, all titanium solvent trap that they can get a form 1 approval to punch a hole through. Full Disclaimer!!! Don’t put a hole in anything without an approved form1! I’m not implying it and Solventtrapsdirect cannot and will not discuss it with you.

    I set out to build a light suppressor for my 358win. It’s sat pretty lonely in the back of the safe ever since I’ve went suppressor only shooting. I asked tbac over the years to make me a 358 capable 7” can but they’ve never been about to make it happen due to work load mostly. No knock against them, being too busy to do one off stuff is really a good thing! But, it left a hole in my suppressor group. I’ve since fixed that by getting a 6” solvent trap and dry storage cups from solventtrapsdirect.com I went with 3 cups to be made into baffles and a expansion chamber using their spacer tube.
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    I used their 5/8-24 thread protector as the rear cap, cut the spacer tube to a length that made a crush fit when fully assembled and used their end cap as well. All the parts were sourced from them.

    The tube is medical grade 9 and the cups and caps are grade 5. Pretty top notch materials are used.

    The dry storage cups that were made into baffles are a simple 60 degree cone with a skirt. With a quality cobalt drill bit I was able to drill the hole with easy using lots of lube, lots of pressure and low speed. Doing it this way make it cut almost like aluminum in nice big perfect curls. I used my lathe but it can easily be done on a drill press from the back side of the cup. When I ordered the cups, I was planning on 2 builds and ordered a couple too few. I reordered and the second set was quite a bit thicker.
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    After calling and talking to the owner, she explained that the thicker ones are the newer style as she felt the thinner ones might not be what people are after. If you order now, you will receive the thicker cups I am told. There is also some variation from cup to cup within the 2 lots that I have. I’m not sure what would cause this, seeing as everything in don’t on one CNC lathe but it’s there. It hasn’t cause any problem that I’ve been able to tell accuracy wise.
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    The front cap is a little thicker than I think it needs to be but a guy could thin it down if you wanted to shave a little more weight. My 6” with the 3 baffles weights about 12oz. I have a 12” with 8 baffles and it’s about 20oz.
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    On the 12” I opted to use their qd setup. That was because I would be using it on smaller caliber stuff and figure a little more baffling from the brake couldn’t hurt. The brake is titanium as well and is super light
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    Something to note. Their 5/8-24 rear cap is thinner than .600” at the threads. That means there are some exposed threads inside the trap. They can catch some carbon and cause a little problem but the rear cap is removable from the tube so yo can clean the threads. I talked with the owner about this and she is going to see about changing it to the industry standard of .600”. She said they also currently off the caps as blanks if a guy wanted to do something now or in a thread pitch that they don’t offer. That isn’t on the website so you would have to call.

    It took a couple times of calling to reach Julie, the owner, but once I did we had a very nice discussion about her traps. She wanted me to clarify some things,
    She was inspected by the ATF and survived. That caused her to have to separate her solvent trap business from her son’s suppressor business, both financially and physically. It’s a small family company and they are wishing the law as to their operation. That is the reason the dry storage cups are sold separately from the tube and caps, per the advise of their attorney. They offer a 10% discount for military and vets currently and plan to add the same for police in the future (take programming code for the website) that is also the reason for the flat $10 shipping, the code to right in the shipping was expensive and it was more cost effective to make it a flat rate. Their shipping is pretty quick. If you order $1000 or more, the 10% is taken off your order in your cart so it you want to get together with a few guys and bundle order, it’ll save some coin.

    The cerakote is not done in house and does add a week or 2 to your order. Coated stuff is considered a special order and can’t be returned.

    I think that’s about it. If I forgot anything or you have questions, post them up here.
     
    Forgot to add a little groups shot from the 12”. It was on a 6brx that shoots pretty small already with the tbac 30p1 it shoots the same group size with the home build but the poi shifts some. The little knot is 5 shots. The tiny holes are from my boys 22. Don’t mind them?
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    But I like it! I have 9mm Form 1 waiting for approval, but thinking about doing a 223/308 can.

    Nicely done!
     
    How long does a form 1 usually take? And I’m also curious what dia. To make your holes vs. bullet diameter. And could you replace the cups to a bigger or smaller size without having to do a second form?
     
    How long does a form 1 usually take? And I’m also curious what dia. To make your holes vs. bullet diameter. And could you replace the cups to a bigger or smaller size without having to do a second form?
    Form 1's have been coming back in days to less than 4 weeks for a little while. Doing it on e-forms that is.
     
    What is the reasoning behind only 3 baffles with the 358?
    I could fit more but I wanted a 2ish inch expansion chamber and that’s what was left for space without taking a skirt off of one and adding it to the end and just trimming the 3rd. It’s not super quiet but not bad
     
    Form 1s are sadly not coming back in days recently. Last couple that I know of personally are closer to 5-6 weeks
     
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    I like the idea of doing this for the price and also the form 1 wait times. How would you compare your 5" sound wise? Is it possible (but not recommended) to shoot without ear pro?

    I see the group you posted, but overall would you say it is repeatable and accurate as your thunderbeast? How is the lockup on the QD system they have?

    Would you consider this a serious use long lasting can, or just something to play around with?

    Thanks
     
    Sound wise, behind the gun I feel it possible to shoot the 6” without ear protection for a limited number of rounds. It’s not as quiet as my ultra 7 by any stretch. The ultra 5 is quiet a bit louder than the 7 also, so I don’t really know how to qualify how quiet it really is. It’s definitely quiet enough for the couple rounds in a hunting situation. That’s why I built it.

    The groups are definitely repeatable. The cold bore is right in the groups with the rear of them also. I didn’t do any clipping of the baffles the help mitigate the chances of an accuracy problem. You do sacrifice a little sound suppression without clipping though.
    The qd locks up as tight as you want there’s no magic to it. Just coarse acme threads and a tapered shoulder. Most I’ve run through it in one sitting is 60 rounds and it didn’t come lose at all.

    I don’t see why this wouldn’t be a long term use can. That being said, I have less than 400 rounds through the one so that’s not really a long term test yet.
     
    Sound wise, behind the gun I feel it possible to shoot the 6” without ear protection for a limited number of rounds. It’s not as quiet as my ultra 7 by any stretch. The ultra 5 is quiet a bit louder than the 7 also, so I don’t really know how to qualify how quiet it really is. It’s definitely quiet enough for the couple rounds in a hunting situation. That’s why I built it.

    The groups are definitely repeatable. The cold bore is right in the groups with the rear of them also. I didn’t do any clipping of the baffles the help mitigate the chances of an accuracy problem. You do sacrifice a little sound suppression without clipping though.
    The qd locks up as tight as you want there’s no magic to it. Just coarse acme threads and a tapered shoulder. Most I’ve run through it in one sitting is 60 rounds and it didn’t come lose at all.

    I don’t see why this wouldn’t be a long term use can. That being said, I have less than 400 rounds through the one so that’s not really a long term test yet.
    Clipping is the term for when the cone it notched at the point?

    400rds? hurry up slow poke.:ROFLMAO:
     
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    That’s correct. It helps to disrupt the gasses more than just stripping them through a hole.

    It’ll most likely be closer to 2k by March. You know my shootin is limited in the warm months?
     
    Interesting. Wonder who "quiet" it is compared to "real" cans.

    Form 1s are sadly not coming back in days recently. Last couple that I know of personally are closer to 5-6 weeks

    Correct. I just got a Form1 back for an SBR last week. 41 days.
     
    I have 2 form 1s that came back in less than 30 days and are ridic accurate and quiet. I can’t imagine paying/waiting for a manufactured can anymore. I spent a considerable amount of time researching and deciding how to drill/clip them and I have to say, I’m impressed. They are 100% titanium minus 2 blast baffles and they the POI shift is zero on heavy barrels and repeatable on thinner barrels. What’s not to love?!
    Want to share a pic of your baffles? Did you clip all of them or not?
     
    Want to share a pic of your baffles? Did you clip all of them or not?
    They shoot great and when things shoot great I don’t take them apart until they don’t shoot great lol. I think they call it the double symmetrical clip or something like that. There is a guy that sells 3d printed templates and it’s pretty easy if you take your time. They look pretty much like this. Mine are a bit bigger because I made them big enough for 30 cal. I clipped all baffles and on my own reasoning used a fairly large blast chamber. Some of my clips ended up a hair larger than others and I put those first to allow more gas through to expand to subsequent chambers.
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    Is there's a certain orientation you align the clips in or do you just stuff them in the tube? Also, if doing a 2" or so blast chamber spacer and 3 baffles on a 6" tube, would having 1 steel baffle and 2 titanium work for centerfire rifles? This is great information, thanks.
     
    Is there's a certain orientation you align the clips in or do you just stuff them in the tube? Also, if doing a 2" or so blast chamber spacer and 3 baffles on a 6" tube, would having 1 steel baffle and 2 titanium work for centerfire rifles? This is great information, thanks.
    Most suggestions that I read when researching said to loosely line all of the clips up and shoot it and then try different orientations if that had issues. I dropped all of mine in with them somewhat lined up and it shot great so I didn’t mess with it.

    Another note, I was worried a little as all of my clips were not perfect. They were good but not anywhere close to CNC good. It still shoots great. Zero loss of accuracy and minimal/repeatable poi shift straight up or down. I went direct thread on both of mine to avoid another variable in the mount so that may have made things easier, I’m not sure.

    Disclaimer- do not do any of this until you have an approved form 1!
     
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    The symmetrical like you posted is what I’ve considered doing. If I did an asymmetrical I think it’s more important to have them lined up perfectly.
     
    Is there's a certain orientation you align the clips in or do you just stuff them in the tube? Also, if doing a 2" or so blast chamber spacer and 3 baffles on a 6" tube, would having 1 steel baffle and 2 titanium work for centerfire rifles? This is great information, thanks.
    I went with all ti baffles on both of these.
     
    So how did you cut the baffles? Some kind of jig and a drill press?
     
    I drilled mine in lathe. You can clamp them in a drill press and do it from the concaved side easy
     
    How do you go about serializing these for compliance?
    Does the ATF assign you the number?
     
    you can do the engraving yourself with a dremel or engraver... just has to be 3 thousandths deep.
     
    you can do the engraving yourself with a dremel or engraver... just has to be 3 thousandths deep.
    Thanks.
    Now after figuring out my “solvent trap” plans, I couldn’t help myself, and just a few minutes ago got a plinker ordered - to start experimenting with. I will remove the “faux” can and use a real one.

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    If I understand you right, you buy the solvent trap. Then you buy as many cups as you want. After you get your form 1 you drill the cups. Then you slide the cups into your solvent trap and screw on the caps? Do you use a spacer to make sure everything is tight? Or can you machine one cup down to hold the cups tight?
     
    You have the idea. You will need a spacer tube for your blast chamber. You can trim that to make everything right. You can also trim all the cups if you want to fit more in there also.
     
    What does the blast chamber do? Do you want it in the middle of the stack? And what number of cups should I use for a 6.5CM? Thank you for your help.
     
    The blast chamber takes the initial blast from the muzzle. My though process is that you need a place for the highest pressure gasses to expand and drop the pressure with less restrictions.

    I don’t know the answer to the right number of baffles. Some go with a lot and some not so many...
     
    I clipped the baffles on my homemade suppressor last night and went out and tested it today. Holy smokes did it make a huge difference. Completely changes the tone and if I were a betting man I'd say it knocked another 10 decibels off the percussion of the gun versus just drilling holes in the baffles.
     
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    So why does clipping the baffles change the sound and decibels?
     
    How did you do it? Mill? Drill press with a fixture? Other?
     
    clipping the baffles adds turbulence to the gas flow throughout the length of the suppressor. it keeps the hot gases inside the suppressor longer to cool inside the suppressor which reduces sound level. At least, this is what I've been able to learn from research. I'm definitely not an expert though, and I'm sure there is someone on here that is far more knowledgeable on this subject that I.

    I used a drill press with a jig and a vise and a couple end mills. A 1/4" end mill and a 1/4" round end mill. This is a pretty good video on how to build the jig and do the clipping. Hopefully it's ok to link to Youtube videos here. I'm still kind of a noob here so if it's not ok I'm sorry and let me know and I'll remove it.

    P.S. if you use the end mills to do it, you want that drill press spinning as fast as it will possible spin. the smaller the bit, the faster the press needs to spin.

    P.s.s. I should also add that in all the research I've done, it appears that a guy shouldn't clip the blast baffle and the very last baffle as it can have a adverse effect on accuracy and performance.
     
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